Wines in tetra packs. Reviews, recommendations
Many people are very skeptical about wines packed in cardboard bags. Experts say that today the quality of these products has become much higher than it was a dozen or two years ago, and even cite a number of evidence to confirm that when you come to the supermarket, you should not ignore these products.
Wine in a "carton" is no worse than in a bottle.
Wine in bags is not what it used to be. If at the dawn of the appearance of wine in cardboard bags it was produced from a terrible mixture of chemistry, food coloring and alcohol, today a store can receive a large fine for such a surrogate. The packages are really more often poured inexpensive wine but that doesn't mean it's of poor quality. Guilt High Quality in packages produced in Italy, Spain, Chile, Argentina, and on domestic market Australia 40% of wine sales come from wines in the "alternative".Wines in packages - savings for the budget.
Of course, there are rich gourmets who are ready to spread on rare varieties wine fabulous sums. But most people just want to drink a glass or two of wine a week. But even in this case, bottled wines can be a very impressive expense item for a personal budget. On average, the money spent on a bottle of wine can buy four times more of the same wine in bags.Wine in a bag - peace of mind at home.
It happens that you need to relieve stress or just want to relax. When pouring wine from a bottle, you can clearly see how much has already been drunk, and an opaque bag removes all conventions and allows you to simply enjoy the taste of wine. There is another significant plus - the wife cannot control the process of emptying the bottle, which means there will simply be no reason for a scandal.Packages are easier to store.
It is much more convenient to store packages than wine bottles. Rectangular containers can be easily folded even in a cupboard. They take up little space in the refrigerator. Packaged wine does not require special racks to store bottles.Packages are easy to transport.
When you go on a picnic, it's much easier to take a large bag of wine rather than a few bottles. Firstly, their weight is much lighter, and secondly, they can be carried calmly without worrying about breaking.Wine in bags keeps longer.
The shelf life of wine in an open package (of course, we are talking about special bags with taps) much longer than in an open bottle. If open bottle can be stored for 2-3 days, then after opening the tap in the bag, the wine can be stored in it for another month.28.04.2011
Results of monitoring the quality and safety of Russian table wines (dry and semi-sweet) in Tetra Pak packaging
On April 27, 2011, Moscow Quality State Unitary Enterprise hosted a press conference for media representatives on the results of monitoring the quality and safety of Russian table wines (dry and semi-sweet) in Tetra Pak packages worth up to 100 rubles per 1 liter per consumer market of the city of Moscow. This monitoring was carried out jointly by specialists of the Interregional public organization Society for the Protection of Consumer Rights "Public Control" and State Unitary Enterprise of Moscow "Moscow Quality".
The press conference was attended by Igor Nazarov, Deputy Director General of the State Unitary Enterprise of the City of Moscow "Moscow Quality", Vadim Drobiz, Head of the Center for Research on Federal and Regional Alcohol Markets (CIFRRA), Elena Rakhmanova, expert of the Interregional Public Organization Society for the Protection of Consumer Rights "Public Control".
At the beginning of the press conference, Vadim Drobiz presented analytical data on the wine market. He said that the best representatives of Russian winemaking, who produce their wine from grapes grown in our country, have received positive ratings from well-known world-class wine critics, and have also won a number of high awards at prestigious world competitions. It should be noted that the state practically does not provide assistance Russian viticulture and winemaking, as a result, the planting area of industrial grape varieties is decreasing, they now occupy about 30 thousand hectares. Russian Federation It is the only wine-producing country in the world that does not have its own law on wine, and there are no plans to develop and adopt such a law in the near future. However, the industry is recovering from the crisis and in 2010 has already shown a significant increase in production.
The share of wine on the Russian alcohol market is very small, because, due to the mentality, Russians prefer more strong drinks and, in recent years, beer. So in Soviet times the level of wine consumption was about 15 liters per person per year, in the 90s this level dropped to 3-4 liters per person per year. According to statistics, the current level of wine consumption in Russia is from 7-9 liters per person per year. Russia is significantly inferior to Europe (16-20 liters per person per year), in addition, the culture of wine consumption is still not sufficiently developed in Russia, which is undoubtedly reflected in taste preferences Russians. In the total volume of sales, imported wine makes up a share of 30-35%, the rest is domestic wine from Russian grapes or from imported wine materials.
According to available statistics, currently up to 35% of wine sold in Russia is bottled in Tetra Pak-type packages. In recent years, the annual growth of the market for such wines reached 10%, but now it has stabilized as a result of the financial crisis. This type of packaging is advanced and really allows you to preserve the consumer properties of wine. Unfortunately, some producers pour low-quality wine into such packaging, which undermines the image of wines in this consumer packaging.
The average cost of 1 liter of grape table wine in 2010 was 203 rubles per liter, which is 7% higher than in 2009. Wines under 110 rubles per bottle of 0.75 liters make up 65% of the total volume of wine sold in Russia. According to the calculations of winemakers, the minimum price for 1 bottle of 0.75l wine in a retail store is now 95-100 rubles, a lower price may raise suspicions about its quality. Nevertheless, we have very expensive wine relative to the average wage in the country, if we took this ratio in the USA and converted it into rubles, then a bottle of wine would cost us about 20 rubles.
Nazarov Igor Vyacheslavovich spoke about how the monitoring of the quality and safety of these wines was carried out. This type of product was chosen as the subject of monitoring due to the availability of information from various sources, including the media, about numerous facts of its falsification, as well as in connection with the beginning of the summer season on the eve of the May holidays and, as a result, a significant increase in demand for packaged wines Tetra Pak type.
Grape wine is a wine product made as a result of complete or incomplete alcoholic fermentation whole or crushed berries of fresh grapes or fresh grape must, with or without participation in the fermentation of the hard parts of the bunch (rind, ridges, seeds of the berry). In the process of making table wines, the introduction of foreign substances into grape must (flavors, dyes, etc., except for those required by the production technology and permitted by regulatory and technical documentation), including alcohol, is not allowed. The natural strength of table wines ranges from 8% to 15% by volume. ethyl alcohol.
The list of medicinal and hygienic properties of wine is very wide. It increases appetite, enhances the secretion of endocrine glands, promotes better secretion of bile, gastric juice and maintains normal stomach acidity. Red wine increases the level of antioxidants in the blood. White wine destroys pathogenic bacteria in the stomach and intestines, drinking red wine prevents the formation of blood clots, has a beneficial effect on cardiovascular system. Compounds formed during the fermentation of grape juice slow down the oxidation reaction of products, and thus prevent the development of atherosclerosis and heart disease. Special attention deserve substances that are difficult to find in other berries and fruits - very strong natural antioxidants resveratrol and polyphenols (flavonoids). Wines made from red grape varieties high content rubidium, which contributes to the removal of radioactive cesium from the body due to their chemical relationship and competition. (Wines from Cabernet and Merlot varieties were officially assigned in the USSR to the crews of nuclear submarines, personnel servicing nuclear installations, and in 1986 - to all residents of the regions adjacent to the Chernobyl nuclear power plant).
On physiological value wine is greatly influenced by its nature, origin, physico-chemical composition. These factors underlie the formation of quality grape wines. Only high-quality natural wines have a beneficial effect on the human body.
At all times, unscrupulous winemakers have tried to “fix” poor-quality wine with the help of unlawful methods to hide its flaws. It is often difficult to distinguish real wine from a fake, not only for an ordinary consumer, but also for a specialist. Almost all methods of falsification of grape wines involve bringing the standard physical and chemical characteristics to the established standards. In addition, there are methods of falsification, leading to an improvement in the organoleptic properties of wine.
In accordance with Law No. 29-FZ "On the quality and safety food products» food products, materials and products that meet the requirements of regulatory documents may be in circulation. May not be in circulation, food products that have clear signs poor quality, which do not raise doubts among representatives of the bodies exercising state supervision and control in the field of ensuring the quality and safety of food products. However, over the past 10 years specific gravity counterfeit wine products is not decreasing and, according to various expert estimates, accounts for about 30% of the market. Dilution of grape wine with low-value products (cheap fruit and berry wine, etc.) to increase its volume is the most common method of falsification both in the production of wine materials and in the sale. As a result, the intensity of the color, the saturation of the bouquet change, and the strength of the wine decreases. As a rule, such wines are “corrected” by the introduction of various chemical components.
Here is a short list of the most common wine adulteration methods:
Dilution of grape wine with low-value products (cheap fruit and berry wine, etc.) to increase its volume. As a rule, such wines are "corrected" by the introduction of various chemical components (alcohol, sweeteners, artificial colors, etc.).
Gallization of wine. This method of falsification consists in the fact that water is added to the wine, followed by bringing the strength and acidity to certain limits, regulated by the current standard.
Chaptalization of wine. This technique primarily consists of adding sugar before or during fermentation.
Petiotization of wine. Wines are made by maceration and fermentation. sugar syrup on pomace (pulp) remaining after separation of grape juice. This is a very sophisticated method of falsification, as the bouquet and color of natural grape wine are preserved.
Scheelization or addition of glycerin.
The use of preservatives for the conservation of cheap wines, as well as wines that have not passed the stage of aging and storage.
Wine coloring. As a rule, it is used to hide other fakes (for example, dilution). For coloring wines, natural (elderberries, blueberries, water beet infusion, etc.) and synthetic dyes are used.
Fake bouquet of wine. Just like coloring, bouquet fake is used in combination with other types of falsification.
Falsification of the production method. For high-quality wines, made in violation of technological scheme developed and approved for a given wine appellation. For example: blended wines are issued for varietal; the period of aging of wine is falsified, etc.
Preparation of "artificial wines". For the production of such wines is not required grape juice, as they are a mixture of components, organoleptically perceived as grape wine.
The range of wine products amazes the consumer with its diversity, description taste merits, aromas and other characteristics. However, according to the description consumer properties and the composition of wine products given on the label or counter-label, it is impossible to determine the actual quality - the information does not always correspond to reality in terms of describing organoleptic properties. Descriptions are also rarely linked to the price - and cheap and expensive products are signed almost identically.
To identify wine products (including the detection of dyes, flavors and other foreign substances), a more in-depth analysis is required for a significantly larger number of physical and chemical indicators than is usually done. The situation is complicated by the insufficiency in Russia of the regulatory and documentary base and methods for identifying grape wines. Until now, by alcoholic products not accepted technical regulations which would also help to stabilize the situation. Regulatory documentation for grape wines does not provide consumer protection from most counterfeit wines due to the lack of basic criteria to distinguish natural wines from counterfeit ones. All this leads to the free flow of low-quality and counterfeit products to the Russian alcohol market. As a result, manufacturers of these products have competitive advantages in Russia over bona fide manufacturers and, as a result, the consumer has a wrong idea of what wine should be like, the image of this drink is discredited, confidence in its quality and benefits is reduced, which does not contribute to the growth of its consumption. Thus, it is not possible to replace quality natural wine strong alcoholic drinks and thereby reduce the alcoholization of the population in the light of the anti-alcohol policy of the state.
At the same time, European countries have developed regulations to combat the production of counterfeit products, adopted back in the 80s of the twentieth century. These Regulations contain a list of indicators, including more than 40 items, with the help of which it is possible to fairly objectively assess the quality, and most importantly, the authenticity (or fake) of wine products. But this is a lengthy, expensive process, and today in Russia, unfortunately, it is not mandatory. At the same time, the identification of such a product as wine is impossible when only physical and chemical indicators of the product are used as identification criteria. To date, more than half of the rejections are based on organoleptic indicators, while the physico-chemical safety indicators of these products meet the established requirements.
As part of the monitoring, employees of the State Unitary Enterprise of Moscow examined 48 organizations retail. Of the total number of surveyed organizations, 90% were stores of 21 retail chains.
When examining the stores, it was found that more than 500 wines of domestic and foreign producers are on sale, of which 238 are in tetrapack packaging. The stores sell wine red and white, dry, semi-sweet and sweet, related to table wines, of various names. It should be noted that wines of 43 domestic producers of 275 names are on sale, of which 159 wines are bottled in tetrapak packaging and foreign producers from 15 countries have 226 names, of which 79 are bottled in tetrapak packaging.
In the segment of Russian table wines, 60% of the total are red wines. Red wines bottled in Tetra Pak packaging account for about 45% of the total amount of products bottled in Tetra Pak packaging.
Also, about 80% of the total number of products studied are semi-sweet wines. Semi-sweet wines bottled in Tetra Pak packages account for more than 52% of the total amount of products bottled in Tetra Pak packages.
As a result of the analysis of the available information, it was revealed that products costing 100-130 rubles per 1 liter are mainly bottled in tetrapack-type packages of various capacities and make up about 65% of the total number of products studied, the rest of the products are presented in bottles.
In addition, we can conclude that table wines in tetrapack packaging are divided into three price categories: in the category up to 50 rubles, from 50 to 100 and over 100 rubles per 1 liter. Wine in the 2nd and 3rd price categories in the sale is represented almost equally. However, in the retail chain about 3-4% are wines in the price category of less than 50 rubles. for 1 liter. As a rule, such wines are sold in economy-class chain stores, as well as during promotions.
Prices for table wine of Russian producers bottled in Tetra Pak packaging in retail trade organizations range from 40.2 rubles. up to 170 rubles for 1 liter. The lowest price is 40.2 rubles. for 1 liter is fixed for table wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet produced by LLC "Gatchinsky Spirit Plant" (Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district), the highest price of 170.0 rubles per 1 liter - for wine "Monastyrskaya Izba" red and white semi-sweet produced by ZAO Vinagroprom (Nizhny Novgorod).
During the monitoring, 10 samples of table wine from 10 Russian producers were purchased in 8 stores at a cost of up to 100 rubles per liter. The origin of the wine materials from which the purchased samples are made is not known, due to the lack of information on consumer packaging.
To conduct laboratory tests on organoleptic and physico-chemical indicators for compliance with the requirements of GOST R 52523-2006 “Table wines and table wine materials. Are common specifications", SanPiN 2.3.2.1078-01 " Hygiene requirements security and nutritional value food products" product samples were sent to the testing laboratory of the State Inspectorate of the Republic of Tatarstan for ensuring state control over the production, circulation and quality of ethyl alcohol, alcoholic products and consumer protection - State Institution "Republican Center for Independent Expertise and Monitoring of the Consumer Market". Additionally, samples of table wine were examined for the content of organic acids, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, dyes, flavors, glycerin, mass concentration of ash and alkalinity of ash, 2.3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol.
All 10 samples of table wine meet the requirements of GOST R 52523-2006 “Table wines and table wine materials. General specifications” and SanPiN 2.3.2.1078-01 “Hygienic requirements for the safety and nutritional value of food products” for the main physical and chemical indicators, including safety indicators.
At the same time, some of them do not meet the requirements of GOST R 52523-2006 “Table wines and table wine materials. General technical conditions” according to organoleptic parameters of 8 samples:
- Muscat white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Gatchinsky distillery", Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Vinogor "Merlot" red semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Vilash", St. Petersburg) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table wine (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maykop) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Cabernet" red dry table (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar region, Krymsky district) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Veles", KBR, Prokhladny) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Chardonnay" "Our product" dry white table wine (LLC "Vagrus", Republic of Adygea, Maykop region) - to taste and aroma;
- wine "Chardonnay" Emerald Vine" white dry table wine (LLC APK "Milstrim - Black Sea wines”, Krasnodar Territory, Temryuk District) - to taste.
In accordance with GOST R 52335-2005 “Wine products. Terms and definitions”, GOST R 52523-2006 “Table wines and table wine materials. General technical conditions "and SanPiN 2.3.2.1293-03 p. 3.3.2. "Hygienic regulations for the use of preservatives" in table wine, the content of any additives not provided for by regulatory and technical documentation is not allowed.
However, when tested in 2 samples of wine, the content of synthetic dye was found:
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District).
In addition, 3 samples contained food additive preservative - benzoic acid, the content of which in wine is not allowed:
Ash and its alkalinity are indicators of the certificate of the International Organization of Vine and Wine, used to identify wines diluted with water and wines "petiotized". The mass concentration of ash is in the range from 1.3 to 4.0 g/dm3, and its alkalinity is from 10 to 30 (mg-eq)/dm3. In 6 samples of table wine, the mass concentration of ash is below the limit allowable norms:
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol);
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table wine (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maikop);
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District);
In 7 samples of table wine, the ash alkalinity index is below the maximum allowable standards:
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol);
- wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Gatchinsky distillery", Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district);
- wine "Vinogor "Merlot" red semi-sweet table wine LLC "Vilash" (St. Petersburg);
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table wine (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maikop);
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District);
- wine "Chardonnay" "Our product" dry white table wine (LLC "Vagrus", Republic of Adygea, Maikop district).
As a result of the tests, it was found that the mass concentration of tartaric acid and its salts is below the maximum allowable standards in the following samples (5 samples):
- wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Gatchinsky distillery", Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district);
- wine "Vinogor "Merlot" red semi-sweet table wine LLC "Vilash" (St. Petersburg);
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District);
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Veles", KBR, Prokhladny);
- wine "Chardonnay" "Our product" dry white table wine (LLC "Vagrus", Republic of Adygea, Maikop district).
As a result of the tests, it was found that the mass concentration of lactic acid and its salts is below the maximum allowable standards in the following samples (6 samples):
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (ZAO Checkpoint "Stavropolsky", Stavropol Territory, Stavropol)
- wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Gatchinsky distillery", Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district);
- wine "Vinogor "Merlot" red semi-sweet table wine LLC "Vilash" (St. Petersburg);
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District);
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Veles", KBR, Prokhladny).
The ratio of tartaric acid to the sum of malic and lactic acids in grape wine is:
- for dry white wines 1/1.2-2.8; semi-sweet 1/1.1-1.8;
- for dry red wines 1/0.8-2.6; semi-sweet 1/0.9-1.8.
Does not correspond to the qualitative composition and quantitative content of organic acids 8 samples:
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol);
- wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Gatchinsky distillery", Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district);
- wine "Vinogor "Merlot" red semi-sweet table wine LLC "Vilash" (St. Petersburg);
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maikop);
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District);
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Veles", KBR, Prokhladny);
In addition, 5 samples contained propylene glycol, which is one of the main solvents for the complex of aroma-forming substances in flavors for food products and indirectly indicates the use of flavors:
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol);
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maikop);
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Veles", KBR, Prokhladny);
- wine "Chardonnay" "Our product" dry white table wine (LLC "Vagrus", Republic of Adygea, Maikop district).
The presence of 2,3-butylene glycol, like glycerol, characterizes the process of natural fermentation, but its low content in wine may indicate dilution of the wine, as well as the low quality of the feedstock. In 7 samples, the 2,3-butylene glycol index is low:
- wine "Vinogor "White Flowers" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Gatchinsky distillery", Leningrad region, Gatchinsky district);
- wine "Vinogor "Merlot" red semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Vilash", St. Petersburg);
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maikop);
- red dry table wine "Cabernet" (LLC "Olimp", Krasnodar Territory, Krymsky District);
- wine "Muscat" white semi-sweet table wine (LLC "Veles", KBR, Prokhladny);
- wine "Chardonnay" "Our product" dry white table wine (LLC "Vagrus", Republic of Adygea, Maikop district);
- Wine "Chardonnay" Emerald Vine "dry white table wine (LLC APK "Milstrim - Black Sea Wines", Krasnodar Territory, Temryuksky District).
In the sample of Muscat wine, white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky Checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol), the 2,3-butylene glycol indicator was not found, which may indicate the absence of a fermentation process.
They do not meet the requirements of GOST R 51074-2003 “Food products. Information for the consumer. General requirements” 3 samples of wine:
- Muscat white semi-sweet table wine (CJSC Stavropolsky checkpoint, Stavropol Territory, Stavropol) - the label does not contain information on the content of the sulfur dioxide preservative food additive;
- wine "Isabella" red semi-sweet table wine (LLC "TD Victoria", Republic of Adygea, Maykop) - the label does not contain information about the presence of a food additive of sorbic acid preservative.
- wine "Chardonnay" "Our product" white dry table wine (LLC "Vagrus", Republic of Adygea, Maikop district) - the label does not contain information about the presence of a food additive of sorbic acid preservative.
Thus, from 10 samples examined 8 wine samples do not comply established requirements for organoleptic and additional indicators.
Wine in carton great option for picnics and country trips, many are sure. Meanwhile, connoisseurs are extremely skeptical about drinks “from packages”, considering them second-class products. How justified are such statements and is there a relationship between the packaging of wine and its quality?
"Secrets" of winemaking
The method of packaging wine in containers made of combined materials, for example, in the so-called cardboard packaging or in a box with a bag of foil and polyethylene Bag in Box, was patented more than half a century ago. In Russia, such wine appeared relatively recently, but quickly gained popularity, becoming a constant attribute of trips to “kebabs”. And this is understandable. It is much more convenient to buy light boxes instead of several 0.7 liter bottles. There is no hassle with them: they will not break on the road, they do not need a corkscrew, there is no need to drag empty containers back either (you can just burn it). In general, there are a lot of pluses.
There are doubts
Often, the advantages of packaged wine include the fact that such packaging is difficult to fake, since this requires special equipment. Perhaps this statement is not unfounded when it comes to boxes with inner bags and fittings. But liter packages are not such a serious obstacle for counterfeiters who want to earn extra money. And the low cost of individual brands of wine in such containers cannot but lead to suspicion. While the cost of the cheapest bottle of wine has long crossed the line of 100 rubles for 0.7 liters, a liter package can be bought for 70-80 rubles, and sometimes even cheaper. That is why we decided to conduct a study on the quality of wines sold in unbreakable containers. The main attention was focused on 1 liter packages.
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The choice is made
Among the samples purchased for testing were popular domestic brands and foreign products - a total of ten table dry wines (red and white). Five of them were produced in the Krasnodar Territory and Stavropol Territory, three, according to the label, were French, and one drink “originally” from Serbia and Bulgaria.
All samples were sent to a scientific laboratory and asked the experts to answer a single question, whether this product corresponds to its name. That is, whether it is wine. When the research was over, we were invited to announce the results. They were simply shocking. none of the samples submitted for testing can be called wine!
In theory…
For a comment, we turned to a leading researcher at the Laboratory for Fundamental and Applied Research on Food Quality and Technology of the Moscow state university food production, Deputy Vice-Rector for scientific work MGUPP, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor Alexander KOLESNOV.
- If the purpose of our study was a formal test of products for compliance with the indicators of GOST R 52523-2006 “Table wines and table wine materials. General technical conditions”, then most likely the samples would meet the stipulated standards, - says Alexander Yuryevich.
– Forge wine so that it meets standard indicators (sugar content, alcohol content, even citric acid) not difficult. But we decided to Scientific research, in which the fundamentals of the theory and practice of winemaking were taken into account when studying the composition of products.
The fact is that in the technology of making wine, processes based on the biological and biochemical principles of the transformation of substances are used. And by the quantitative content of some components that are formed or consumed, for example, during fermentation, one can confidently judge the quantitative content of others. Perhaps the most typical example of such an “unbreakable bond” is the formation of ethyl alcohol from sugars. The amount of ethanol (ethyl alcohol) formed in wine directly depends on how much natural sugars - glucose and fructose - were in the grapes. This relationship can be broken only as a result of artificial intervention, say, by adding sugar or alcohol. But as soon as the connection is broken, it immediately becomes obvious that the drink is “left”, because there was not so much sugar.
...and in practice
“This is how it looks in the example of our study,” Alexander Yuryevich continues. – In the samples that we studied, the degree of attenuation is very high, about 99%. This means that all the sugar, mostly glucose, has been fermented to become alcohol. With this degree of fermentation, the residual proportion of glucose should be very small - from 1 to 7%, and it is inexplicably high: 18.8-68.4% (see table). Why? Most likely, during the manufacture of samples or wine materials, their composition was modified. That is, something was added to them - either alcohol or glucose syrup.
This is a prime example of the theory and good practice of winemaking. But we operated with other indicators and found that their relationship is also broken. For example, the amount of glycerol (it is also formed during fermentation) is directly related to the amount of ethyl alcohol. However, this dependence is absent in some cases. So-called glycerol factor- one of the quality indicators in natural wines usually ranges from 8-10 units, but may have slight deviations depending on the region. However, in half of the studied samples, it either exceeds all possible limits known to the science of wine, or, on the contrary, is less (see tables). This effect can be achieved by mixing various components, but not by classical fermentation. In addition, in many samples of the test, the potassium content is lowered, which is also uncharacteristic for wine. There are other violations in the chain of “causal relationships” that are not easy to explain to a consumer unfamiliar with the technology and scientific foundations of winemaking. But I repeat, absolutely all samples demonstrate a deviation in one of the most important characteristics - the ratio of the residual proportion of glucose and the degree of fermentation. Even this factor alone leads to the conclusion that they are not natural wines.
That's the opening!
– What then is this product? we ask the experts.
- To assert something definite, it is necessary to carry out additional, more in-depth studies, - Alexander Yuryevich explains. - Without them, we can only guess which of the methods of falsification was used by one or another manufacturer. In some cases, these could be wine materials that were brought to condition by adding alcohol or adding sugar. In other cases, the wine material could be absent altogether. We managed with the so-called concentrate of plant coloring extracts. Unfortunately, it is now widely used by unscrupulous manufacturers. In general, “powder winemaking” is very popular today. A water extract is obtained from the skin of grapes. Here is the basis for your wine. Then add sugar, alcohol, lemon or malic acid- and the wine is ready. By the way, the ingredients of the powder for making wine are now openly displayed at exhibitions, so there is no secret here. However, in our case, most of the samples, I think, are still made on the basis of wine materials.
Food for thought
Frankly, the results of the study stunned us. It turns out that there is not much difference, domestic wine or imported. Apparently, manufacturers are engaged in falsification on a global scale. Which, in general, is not surprising, since it is so easy to get around the current domestic standards. Apparently, it is assumed that wine in boxes and bags is intended for an undemanding consumer. So lovers of outdoor recreation have something to think about.
Test results of dry red table wine
1 2 3 4 5 6- Russian Vine “Cabernet” (manufacturer / importer: CJSC “Russian Loza”, Russia, Krasnodar Territory, city of Anapa, village of Sukko)
- Russian Vine “Merlot” (CJSC “Russian Vine”, Russia, Krasnodar Territory, town of Anapa, Sukko settlement)
- Hebros “Merlot” (“Hebros-Vinprom”, Bulgaria / OOO “Luding-Trade”, Russia, Moscow)
- Vino Zupa “Vranac” (“VINO ZUPA”, Republic of Serbia, / OOO “Luding-Trade”, Russia, Moscow)
| Name | Russian Vine “Cabernet” | Russian Vine “Merlot” | Monastery meal | Hebros "Merlot" | Vino Zupa “Vranac” | Cantabrik |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Volume, l | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| price, rub. *) | 95 | 95 | 80 | 165 | 120 | 195 |
| 24.09.2010 / 24.03.2012 |
10.08.2010 / 10.02.2012 |
25.09.2010 / is not limited |
14.07.2010 / is not limited |
04.08.2010 / is not limited |
17.06.2010 / 17.06.2013 |
|
| 10–12 | 10–12 | 9–11 | 10–12 | 11 | 11 | |
| 10,58 | 10,42 | 9,25 | 9,5 | 10 | 10,2 | |
| no more than 4 | no more than 4 | not indicated | 0 | 2 | 1 | |
| 0,64 | 1,17 | 0,32 | 2,2 | 0,38 | 0,3 | |
| 29,7 | 18,8 | 28,1 | 55,9 | 68,4 | 20 | |
| 99,64 | 99,33 | 99,79 | 98,64 | 99,77 | 99,83 | |
| does not match | does not match | does not match | does not match | does not match | does not match | |
| 10,05 | 9,93 | 17,77 | 17,02 | 9,69 | 7,51 | |
| Test results | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine |
Test results of dry white table wine
1
2
3
4
- Russian Vine “Chardonnay” (CJSC “Russian Vine”, Russia, Krasnodar Territory, town of Anapa, Sukko settlement)
- Monastic meal (LLC "Mineral Water Plant of Grape Wines", Russia, Stavropol Territory, Leninsky village)
- Cantabrik (Group Ukkoar S.A., France / CJSC Mosel, Russia, St. Petersburg)
- Cuvee Prestige (Group Ukkoar S.A., France / CJSC Mosel, Russia, St. Petersburg)
| Name | Russian Vine “Chardonnay” | Monastery meal | Cantabrik | Cuvee Prestige |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Volume, l | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| price, rub. | 300 | 80 | 198 | 200 |
| Date of manufacture / expiration date | 17.09.2010 / 17.03.2012 |
10.09.2010 / is not limited |
16.06.2010 / 16.06.2013 |
07.04.2010 / 07.04.2013 |
| Alcohol (ethanol), % vol. declared | 10–12 | 9–11 | 11 | 11 |
| Alcohol (ethanol), % vol. actual | 11 | 9,27 | 10,46 | 9,67 |
| Carbohydrates (total sugar), g/l declared | no more than 4 | not indicated | 1 | 2 |
| Carbohydrates (total sugar), g/l actual | 1,7 | 0,34 | 0,2 | 0,2 |
| Share of glucose in total sugar, % | 65,3 | 50 | 35 | 27,3 |
| Estimated degree of fermentation, % | 99 | 99,78 | 99,59 | 99,87 |
| Correspondence of the degree of fermentation and the proportion of glucose in total sugar **) | does not match | does not match | does not match | does not match |
| Glycerin factor (norm 8-10) | 9,48 | 18,88 | 6,58 | 6,36 |
| Test results | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine | The product is not a genuine dry wine |
Test Conclusions:
Even according to the three indicators by which the samples were tested (residual glucose, glycerol factor and potassium content), it can be concluded that none of them is a natural wine made according to the classical technology.
In all wines, the residual proportion of glucose does not correspond to the degree of fermentation, it is much higher than the permissible limit.
in wines “Monastic meal”(red and white) and Hebros "Merlot" a significant excess of the norm in terms of “glycerol factor” was revealed. in wines Cantabrik(white) and “Cuvée prestige”, on the contrary, a lower value of this indicator.
In samples “Russian Vine” Cabernet, “Russian Vine” Merlot, “Monastic Meal”(Red and White), Hebros “Merlot”, “Russian Vine” Chardonnay it turned out reduced content potassium. It also speaks of violations of the drink preparation technology.
In sample Hebros "Merlot" sugar was found, which, judging by the label, should not be.
Firstly, glass bottles They weigh quite a lot (despite all the tricks of manufacturers to produce ultra-light bottles, glass has a certain tensile strength and it is very difficult to significantly reduce the weight of the container). And excess weight is extra overhead for transportation.
Secondly, a round bottle, even with the tightest packing in boxes, leaves too much free space - a standard box in which 6 bottles of 0.75 liters (4.5 liters of total wine volume) are placed has a volume of about 6 liters. The difference is 25%.
Thirdly, the bottle is a fragile container that requires very gentle handling. Those of you who follow the world of wine at least out of the corner of your eye remember how much discussion there was about this when longshoremen in Australia slammed a container of expensive wine at the end of last year.
Fourthly, the bottle itself costs money and sometimes quite noticeable. A fantasy bottle, such as the one used to bottle Asti Mondoro, can cost more than the contents - up to 2 euros, while the cost of wine is less than 1 euro.
Therefore, it is not at all surprising that the question of alternative types packaging has been worth a long time and the search the best options are constantly going on.
At the moment, the two main options are the most popular - liter TetraPak bags, almost the same as those used for milk, kefir, juices, fruit drinks, etc. and "bag-in-box" (bag-in-box), which is a plastic bag with a capacity of 2-3 liters or more, with a tap, enclosed in a cardboard box of the appropriate volume.
In terms of quality, the original question actually contains at least three different questions.
The first of them sounds like this: "Is it true that wine under the same name from the bottle and from alternative packaging are different wines?". No that's not true. At all the wineries that I have visited that use alternative packaging, the bottling units for each of them are connected to a common wine container. Often, the bottling itself is carried out in parallel. Therefore, there is no difference in the wine of one winery, one year of production and one date of bottling.
The second question is easiest to formulate as: "Is it true that wine in different types of packaging is stored and developed in different ways?". Yes it's true. This is due to a variety of technological reasons, primarily in significant differences in access to light and oxygen to wine. We don't know much about alternative "long-range" packaging yet, although studies show that all modern views do not have any problematic effect on the wine for at least a year.
Third question: "Is it true that the average level of wine in packages is lower than in bottles?". Yes, this is more true. This is due to the fact that the buyer of expensive wine is quite conservative and prefers a bottle for aesthetic reasons. Therefore, relatively inexpensive wine is usually poured into bags and BiBs. which, naturally often not of very high quality. Nevertheless, in many countries you can buy very decent wine in these packages. In particular, domestic sales of wine in Australia are already almost 40% of wine in the "alternative", a lot of quite normal wine is made in Italy, Spain, Chile, Argentina.
When buying packaged wines for a picnic or culinary purposes be guided, therefore, by the country of production (Russian packages can be bought only on condition that you know for sure what you are doing), bottling date (not too long ago) and price (not very cheap). In most cases, this will provide quite usable content.
Prehistory
daily_winegraph
: "Is it true that the average level of wine in packages is lower than in bottles?". Yes, this is more true. This is due to the fact that the buyer of expensive wine is quite conservative and prefers a bottle for aesthetic reasons. Therefore, relatively inexpensive wine is usually poured into bags and BiBs. Which, naturally, is often not of very high quality. Nevertheless, in many countries you can buy very decent wine in these packages. In particular, domestic sales of wine in Australia are already almost 40% of wine in the "alternative", a lot of quite normal wine is made in Italy, Spain, Chile, Argentina.
Thank you semiseccofor this post.
There are many options for good accompaniment. Beer requires a portable cold store, and hard liquor keeps event time to a minimum and may not be for everyone. Since the basis of kebabs is meat and vegetables, wine is the best choice. And for these purposes there is the best options picnic wines that are widely used, namelywine in boxes.
There are two types of wine in boxes:
Firstand the most common is the wine in the packageTetra Pak (Tetra Pak). Although in Russia these are mostly sweet wines, at a low price point, in other countries, such as Spain, this is an ideal package for young wines.
Secondis it the fault in the Bag-in-Box or justBiB (BiB). The technology is an excellent plus that the wine inside, after opening, does not come into contact with air. This is ensured by a plastic bag that shrinks inside a rigid shell when draining, so neither oxygen, nor bacteria, nor smell, nor light enters the wine container. For those who want to be more specific, see here for more details. http://www.bag-in-box.com.ua/#main.
The advantages of such packaging in nature are quite obvious, compared to glass bottles.
And you can also inflate or pour water into the bag and get a great pillow.
Made a purchase at three points, of which two supermarkets and one liquor store.
6 people tasted and combined, different levels of preference and knowledge of wine.
6 different wines, preference was given to BiBs
6 dishes on the grill and grill.
Grades will be averaged for ease of perception.
Chiantigiane, Toscoli Rosso, Italy, Toscano IGT, 11.5% vol.
grapes: Sangiovese and Ciliegiolo
Medium-bodied, fruity, with hints of cherry in taste and aroma.
Average rating: 4/5.
Paired well with: Pork shish kebab. Cheese for frying.
Merlot Sangiovese, Cantine Ronco, Italy, Emilia-Romagna IGT, 12% vol.
grapes: Merlot and Sangiovese.
Medium-bodied, not very pleasant nightshade tops, dull sweet spices.
average rating 2.5/5
Paired well with: Pork shish kebab. Lamb caret.
Rosso Beccaccia, Cantine Ronco, Italy, Emilia-Romagna IGT, 11.5% vol.
Grapes: Sangiovese, Merlot and Montepulciano.
Light, slightly slender, but very drinkable, cherry, redcurrant and gooseberry.
average rating 4/5.
Pairs well with:BBQ Turkey. Grilled vegetables. Cheese for frying.
Bianco di Sicilia, Cantine Ronco, Italy, Sicilia IGT, 12% vol.
Grapes: Grecanico and Chardonnay.
Fresh, fruity, with a hint of citrus and a rich base.
Average rating: 4/5.
Pairs well with:Trout steaks in foil. Grilled vegetables. BBQ Turkey.
Tocornal Cabernet Sauvignon,Cono Sur,Chile,Central Valley, 12.5% vol.
grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon.
Full-bodied, bright, black berries, black plums. Moderate tannins.
Average rating: 4.5/5.
Pairs well with:Lamb caret. Pork shish kebab.
Bordonaro Rosso, Firriato, Italy, Sicilia IGT, 13% vol.
Grapes: Nero d'Avola and Sangiovese.
Body-bodied, with soft tannins, drinkable. Currants, ripe plums, wet tobacco leaf.
Average rating: 4.5/5
Pairs well with:Lamb caret. Pork shish kebab. BBQ Turkey.
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