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How to brew beer at home without special equipment. How to brew beer at home: technology, subtleties, secrets

Beer The most popular low-alcohol drink in the world. It is in demand among all age categories, despite the fact that it is tacitly considered a youth drink. This intoxicating drink was invented in ancient Egypt and is still produced not only on a factory scale, but also in private breweries and only for themselves.

Beer at home is not as difficult to prepare as it seems and it turns out to be much tastier than its store-bought malt brother. The recipes for making this foamy drink differ in the technology of preparation and additional ingredients. Depending on them, you can get different shades and aftertaste left by this alcohol.

Beer can be brewed without the use of special equipment, so home-brewing is quite popular. Factory devices are easily replaced with homemade designs. And the drink itself, made from natural raw materials, and not a factory concentrate, turns out to be very bright, rich and unique.

Every self-respecting lover of this drink should know how to brew beer at home. It is much easier to buy a bottle in the final store, but the result of preparation will be worth the effort.

To properly make this foamy drink, you have to work hard. Its production takes a lot of time and effort. Extra time is required to use homemade raw materials. The easiest way is to use ingredients purchased at a specialty store. In this case, be sure to follow all prescription instructions. Experiments in such production are only possible for the most experienced brewers. To achieve the correct result, you need to use a step-by-step recipe for brewing beer, which describes in detail each stage with all the important nuances and proportions.

Equipment

Beer, which is produced at home in large volumes, requires special equipment for production.

  • Container of large volumes. Most often, pots, buckets or tanks with a volume of more than 20 liters are used. One container is required for the production of wort, the second for fermentation. Braga can be cooked in several smaller bowls.
  • Food thermometer. It is required to comply with the strict temperature regime dictated by the rules of manufacture.
  • Containers for further storage. It can be plastic or glass bottles of any convenient volume. Greater preference is given to glass, since it does not retain odors, and darkened glass also protects the drink from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.
  • Cooling. During the cooking process, you will need to lower the temperature of the wort. Pots of cold water or an ice bath are suitable for this.
  • Water seal. During the fermentation process, it removes the carbon dioxide formed. You can use both a special device and an ordinary medical glove with holes in the fingers.
  • Long spoon. It is used for mixing ingredients. The preferred material is metal or wood.
  • Hydrometer. This device allows you to measure the density of the resulting liquid. It is used for greater convenience in manufacturing and can be excluded from the inventory list.

Ingredients

Beer at home does not differ much in its components from the factory product. It is traditionally brewed with the following ingredients:

  • Water.
  • Malt.
  • Hop.
  • Yeast.

Water should be as clean as possible, preferably spring or artesian. In the absence of such water, it is carefully filtered several times or purchased bottled in a store. The rest of the ingredients should preferably be specialized. In the absence of brewer's yeast, ordinary food yeast is used. The malt should be light in color and have a sweetish aftertaste. Hops are selected depending on the desired result. It can be bitter and aromatic. All bumps should have a yellow or red tint.

How to make beer at home?

In order to make the most popular intoxicating drink at home, you must strictly adhere to the traditional recipe without neglecting any of the points. Before you cook it, you need to make all the preparations so as not to be distracted by this in the future. For a home brewery, you will need the entire list of inventory and ingredients. We brew beer at home in several stages:

  1. Preparation.
  2. Mashing the wort.
  3. Boiling.
  4. Cooling.
  5. Braga preparation.
  6. Bottling.
  7. Excerpt.

Each stage has its own manufacturing conditions and principles, each of which requires special attention.

Preparation

At this stage, all preparations of equipment and raw materials are made, the availability and quality of all ingredients are checked, and the prepared containers are sterilized. Yeast can be prepared in advance for incorporation into the wort. To do this, they “wake up” with a small amount of water and infuse for about half an hour.

The brewing itself requires special attention. Home cooking requires careful preparation of containers. They should be as clean as possible, pre-sterilized. The correctness of the further process and the duration of storage of the finished product depend on this.

Mashing the wort

To obtain beer, preparation must begin with crushing the malt and combining it with hot water. From this, starch is broken down, forming sugar and soluble substances. You can grind both with the help of a special crusher purchased in a specialized store, and using an ordinary mechanical meat grinder. An easier option is to buy pre-prepared and crushed grain.

Ground malt, which is in a fabric bag, is lowered into water heated to 75 degrees. It is made from cotton or gauze folded into several layers. The grain is boiled for an hour and a half at a stable temperature of about 70 degrees. Under such conditions, a mild pleasant taste and an optimal strength of 3-4 degrees are obtained.

After the time has passed, you need to check the liquid for the absence of starch. When iodine is added, the drink should not turn blue. In order to skip the verification step, it is enough to increase the cooking time by 10 - 20 minutes.

After that, the temperature rises by 10 degrees for 5 minutes. After that, the malt bag is taken out and washed with a couple of liters of hot water, which is then added to the raw material.

Boiling the wort

Brewing homemade beer does not exclude the brewing process. The wort is brought to a boil and hops are gradually added to it. Immediately after boiling, one third is poured, after half an hour a second is added. The rest of the hops are poured in after another half an hour of boiling, after which the whole mass is kept on fire for another quarter of an hour.

During the entire stage, a high temperature of the wort must be maintained. The liquid must continuously boil, releasing steam.

Cooling

The cooling of the boiled wort should be very fast. The liquid should cool to a temperature of 25 degrees within a quarter of an hour. In the absence of a special immersion cooler in the inventory, the container is transferred to a bathtub filled with very cold water or ice. When the required temperature is reached, the liquid is poured through the filter into a pre-prepared container.

Fermentation

Yeast prepared in accordance with the recommendations indicated on the package is poured into the chilled wort. The taste that the beer gets depends on how they are prepared. The ingredients are thoroughly mixed, sealed with a water seal and left to mature. The time of infusion is one and a half weeks. The room temperature should be as directed on the package of yeast. Most often, you need to stick to a standard room environment.

The completion of this stage is determined by the hydrometer or the cessation of gas formation. The device checks 2 samples with a difference of 12 hours. If the discrepancy becomes a few hundredths, the process can be terminated.

Plugging and carbonation

At this stage, the beer is saturated with carbon dioxide to raise the taste characteristics and foaming. To do this, 8 grams of sugar per liter of beer are added to the bottles, and the mixture is infused for a couple of days. The finished drink is filtered from sediment by removal through a tube. Beer is poured into containers for storage, filling it up to a couple of centimeters to the neck. This place is left for residual gas formation. It is convenient to use special brewing bottles with a removable cap. Since they are not very common, ordinary plastic or glass containers are used.

Maturation

Brewing homemade beer is very time consuming and labor intensive. But it takes a little more patience to get the best result. The spilled beer is aged for a month to get a richer taste. The finished foamy drink can be stored on the refrigerator door for a little more than six months.

Brewing Secrets

Beer at home is extremely difficult to brew. Beginners always use the secrets of experienced brewers, which are carefully kept and passed on.

  • In order to make a high-quality and deep taste at home, you need to cook with brewer's yeast and clean water from sources.
  • Different varieties of malt vary in flavor. You can get smoked, chocolate, coffee and even caramel flavors.
  • During fermentation, the beer must not be turned over so as not to oversaturate it with oxygen.
  • The foam that forms on the mash must be removed regularly.
  • For additional aeration, the malt is poured in a small stream from a height.

beer recipes

Homemade beer recipes from hops and malt can be both traditional, used for centuries, and have a new interpretation. A simple recipe for a hoppy drink contains only the main ingredients. More complex ones can include up to 20 different additives. Before you make beer, you need to decide what specific recipe it will be prepared with.

An old recipe for homemade honey beer

The cooking recipe includes:

  • Yeast - 50 grams.
  • Honey - 2 kilograms.
  • Hops (cones) - 30 pieces.
  • Water - 10 liters.

Hops are boiled for a couple of hours in water over low heat. After that, the mixture cools a little and honey is slowly poured into it. The syrup is still cooled to 25 degrees. After that, yeast interferes with it. The must is infused for a week in a dark room, but it closes only after a day. Finished beer is bottled for storage.

Easy recipe with molasses

This recipe is more complex, and the finished drink is somewhat reminiscent of honey beer. For cooking you need:

  • Molasses - 2 kilograms.
  • Water - 20 liters.
  • Hops - 90 grams.
  • Yeast - 500 grams.
  • Flour - 100 grams.

Hops are boiled in water and strained. After that, molasses is added to it. The syrup is boiled for half an hour and poured into a container for subsequent cooling. At this time, the wort is prepared from yeast mixed with flour and a little water. It is added to the main cooled mass. The container is tightly closed and kept in a warm place for half a day. After that, the room is changed to a colder one and the beer is aged for another 3-4 days. The finished drink is bottled and stored in a cool place.

homemade table beer recipe

The table variety is traditional and very common. Like a wine of this category, it does not have a bright, sharp taste and smell. For cooking you need:

  • Water - 10 liters.
  • Wine - 50 milliliters.
  • Hops - 50 grams.
  • Raisins - 50 grams.
  • Malt - 1.5 kilograms.
  • Sugar - 1.2 kilograms.
  • Yeast - 20 grams.

In a saucepan, mix 1 cup of water, sugar, wine, raisins and hops. The mixture is brought to a boil and boiled for 40 minutes. The resulting liquid is filtered and mixed with the bulk of the water. After that, the solution is boiled again, then cooled to a temperature slightly above room temperature. Prepared yeast is mixed into this liquid. The finished mass is infused for one week with periodic removal of foam from the surface. After that, the beer is bottled and stored in the refrigerator.

Vilna beer recipe

Vilna beer is distinguished by its unique ingredients:

  • Malt - 1 kilogram.
  • Honey - 1.8 kilograms.
  • Seedless grapes - 300 grams.
  • Hops - 800 grams.
  • Breadcrumbs - 300 grams.
  • Yeast diluted with water - 70 grams.
  • Soda - 50 grams.
  • Salt - 2 grams.
  • Water - 15 liters.

All ingredients are ground and mixed in a saucepan with 3 liters of water. It should be a thick but soft liquid. It is covered with gauze and infused for a day. After that, another 3 liters of water are added. The mass is again covered and infused for another 24 hours in the same place. After that, the rest of the water is added, and the mixture is cooked on the slowest fire for 8 hours. After removing from the stove, soda is added and aged for a couple of hours. The resulting liquid is filtered and sealed in jars. Beer is infused for a week in the cold and three days in the heat.

Even the simplest recipes for making homemade beer require skill, attention and adherence to many nuances. It also requires a minimum set of inventory, without which no way to do. But if you really want to and comply with all the requirements, then you will no longer want to return to the use of store products again.

Beer is considered one of the oldest drinks in the world. You will not believe, but the recipes for making this drink have been known since ancient Egypt. Under the cut, the author will tell you in detail how to make delicious beer at home. Feel like a brewer!

Brewing beer at home is not a particularly tricky business, but it is charitable in every sense. First of all, it's very tasty. Secondly, homemade beer from natural raw materials gives an incomparably smaller hangover and cumulative harm to health is also smaller. Thirdly, when you treat friends and acquaintances, proudly declaring, “I cooked it myself,” then, seeing their round eyes, your ego swells to such an extent that it makes it difficult to walk. For some reason, people believe that brewing beer is something between severe alchemy and necromancy.

Equipment.
The first thing you need is a saucepan or a tank of 40 liters. It can be enameled, it can be made of stainless steel. Stainless steel is better, but more expensive. Enameled container is also nothing, but three times cheaper. I bought this miracle for 2000 rubles. I just found it, by the way. For home use, pots can be dispensed with when cooking up to 50 liters. Then you need to buy more serious equipment, since it is difficult and dangerous to carry 50 liters of boiling water with your hands.

According to the degree of hardcore, home brewing can be divided into two types: concentrate and all-grain (grain).
In the first case, we have the wort ready, in the form of an evaporated concentrate. It's not chemistry. This is what neither is a natural product. Now the choice of concentrates is very large, you can pick up something for every taste. They cost around 800 rubles for a can of 20 liters of finished beer.

In the second, we buy malt and mock it ourselves. There are, however, absolutely perfectionists, they themselves make malt from barley and prepare water, achieving the necessary mineralization. Well, for example, if some beer is brewed in the English village of Fuckthishole, then the mineral composition of the local water is found out and the same is made. This is over 80 level house. brewing. For lovers, it is enough to buy good water in a store or draw from a nearby well / spring / tap.

Next, you need to turn a banal pan into a wort mash. You can use two containers, one for mashing, the second for cooking, but in an apartment, the less bulky rubbish, the less the wife swears. Which is important for a brewer. We go to the nearest construction market and buy the necessary parts:

1. Half inch brass clamp, plus two locknuts, plus two silicone gaskets, plus two PTFE gaskets.
2. Ball valve with female thread also ½ inch.
3. American for soldering with a copper tube.
4. Elbow.
5. Three copper tees with a diameter of 15mm.
6. Four corners 15 mm.
7. Two meters of unannealed copper tube.
We drill a hole in the pan as low as possible (here, who has what kind of tool and hand-to-hand skill), trying to minimally damage the enamel, and assemble this design:

We first put a silicone gasket to the wall of the pan, and a fluoroplastic gasket on it. Otherwise, the nuts will seize the silicone.

Well, here is the ready-made brewer. Now let's upgrade it to the mash. Here it is necessary to delve a little into the theory.
Mashing is the process of keeping the mash (water + malt) at a certain temperature. This holding is called a temperature pause. During this time, the enzymes in the malt break down the starch, which is a polysaccharide, into simpler sugars that the yeast can eat. The enzymes involved in this process are the so-called alpha and beta-amylases. According to the figurative expression of one of our colleagues, if we imagine starch as a tree, then beta-amylases bite small twigs (fermentable sugars), reach the fork of the branch and freeze, and alpha cuts randomly into arbitrary pieces (non-fermentable sugars). The thing is that these enzymes are most active at different temperatures. Beta-amylase at 60-65 degrees, alpha - at 70-75. Accordingly, if we let the beta work longer, we will get a wort of maximum fermentability, a high amount of alcohol, but an empty taste, because the yeast will turn all the sugars into alcohol and water. On the contrary, if alpha-amylases rule, then the beer will be dense, rich, but very light, because there will be practically nothing for yeast to eat there. By combining temperature pauses and achieve the desired balance between the body of beer and alcohol. Here, the theory is rough.
To turn our tank into a mash we need to assemble a filter element. This, unfortunately, requires some manual work.

To begin with, we take an American, a tee, a piece of copper tube and solder one to the other.

Soldering copper pipes is easy. You need solder, always lead-free, and flux. All this is freely sold in the markets or in plumbing stores. Solder look Sn97-Cu3. Without flux, soldering will not work, the solder will stupidly drain from the copper. If there is a gas burner for soldering, it’s good, if not, a gas stove will do. We clean the surfaces, apply the flux in a thin layer, put everything together and heat it up. When small droplets of tin appear on the parts smeared with flux, we bring the solder wire to the joint and the tin itself will be drawn into it under the action of capillary forces. Cool down and voila. Just remember, copper has exceptional thermal conductivity, work only with a tool, otherwise a severe burn is guaranteed. Copper cannot be thrown from hand to hand like an ember, even a short touch is a burn.

Here is such a shaitan device.
The last thing you need a hand-ass for is a cooler, or, as it is called, a chiller. Again we go to the market and buy 10-12 meters of annealed copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm and several meters (depending on how far the brewing will be from the connection point to cold water) of any hose, plus a couple of clamps. The annealed tube, in contrast, is easily bent by hand. So we bend, winding on something that is suitable in diameter. Then, carefully, with a large radius, so as not to break, we bring the end up. For rigidity, you can solder the coils to the vertical tubes, but I just wound it with copper wire (there should be an “ass” in the hand-ass).

Now let's move on to what is problematic to do yourself.

1. Hydrometer AC-3. This garbage is needed to measure the density of the wort. You can do without it, but it's better with it. Many use refractometers for this, but I myself have not used them, I will not say anything.
2. Fermentation tank. Now many online stores offer such 32-liter barrels with a water seal (4) and a faucet (5) at once. Also with a scale and a glued liquid crystal thermometer. You can buy it this way, or you can buy it separately. But, if in brewing shops this tank costs 300 - 350 rubles, then in offices selling plastic containers, it also costs 160 rubles. A matter of taste and laziness.
3. Mill for malt. Specifically, this one is called Comfort-500, made at the state farm named after the 47th anniversary of Mao, it looks scary, metal processing is at the level of the Stone Age, but it costs one and a half thousand and performs its function. The same, but made in Belgium costs already 3.500. Advanced two- or three-roll mills already cost from 5 to 9 thousand. No coffee grinders, meat grinders and blenders will work. I'll explain why a little later. A rolling pin will come up, but it will not be grinding, but the punishment of God and the seven plagues of the Egyptians.
4. ---
5. ---
6. Accurate digital thermometer with remote probe. Accurate at least within a degree. The thing is absolutely necessary. The one in the picture, I foolishly bought for 1500 rubles. Then it turned out that it was possible to buy a good Chinese thermometer for 300 rubles. On Avito.
7. Scales. It also needs to be more or less accurate. If within a gram, then perfect. In the picture Energy-403, weigh up to 5 kg, there is a tare function. Accuracy - grams. Well, that's how it's written.

The last thing we need is a meter and a half two SILICONE hose under the fitting on the pan. I did not draw it, a hose and a hose, such a transparent one. It is needed to drain the hot wort. PVC will not work, it stinks when heated and emits all sorts of muck from itself. We need a medical silicone hose suitable for sterilization. Where to get it - depends only on your imagination.
Actually everything. A microbrewery for the home, for the family, is ready. There are still all sorts of small things that make the process easier, but at first you can do without. The budget for all this mess ranges from 10 to 15 thousand.

Now, let's move on to the actual brewing of beer. I just want to clarify right away that in addition to equipment and ingredients, you will also need a lot of patience. The brewing process itself takes 6-8 hours, fermentation from 7 to 14 days, exposure from a couple of weeks to a year. That is, even in the simplest case, you will try your first beer not earlier than a month after brewing. But believe me, it's worth it.
And another important point. The room in which all this demonism takes place must be clean. No mold in the corners, no fermented milk products around. No animals. Wort is a super-nutrient medium for fungi and bacteria. Therefore, the cleaner the room, the less chance of beer contamination. I will write about the disinfection of equipment later.
So, we will cook the Black Rhinoceros. This recipe, being clearly in a state of enlightenment, was invented by a friend from one club house. brewers with the nickname Rhinoceros. Dark beer. Therefore, black.
We will need, based on 28 liters of finished beer (we are limited to a 32-liter fermenter):
Munich malt, Munich, with color EBC 25 (there will be “Munich-25” in stores) - 5.77 kg.
Melanoidin malt, Melano, EBC 80 - 0.87 kg.
Caramel malt, Cara, EBC 50 (you can Cara-150, it will be darker and richer) - 0.35 kg.
Traditional hops, also known as Traditional - 20 grams.
Hops Saaz or Saaz - 40 grams.
Yeast Fermentis Safale S-04 - one sachet about 11 grams.
First things first, the malt must be ground. We get our hellish mill and forward. You can twist it with your hands, you can attach a screwdriver, I acted more cunningly and plowed my small one. Six kilos of malt will require half an hour of time with smoke breaks.

The trick of grinding malt is that it is necessary to obtain not flour, but grains crushed into several parts and at the same time undamaged shells. That's why no coffee grinders are suitable. These shells, settling on the bottom of the mash, form a filter layer through which the wort is actually filtered. And it flows out through our filter system of copper pipes. The cuts are small enough for the husks to slip through, but large enough for filtering to take a reasonable amount of time. Without this husk, the grains will quickly clog the slots and the wort will be filtered before the onset of democracy in North Korea. This is what ground malt looks like:

This recipe uses a single mash at 72 degrees. Above, I talked about how temperature affects congestion. So this beer should turn out to be “full-bodied” with a small amount of alcohol. We put a filter in the tank, take four times more water (24 liters) relative to the amount of malt and heat it up to 78 degrees, when adding malt, the temperature will drop to the 72 we need. By the way, a degree there, a degree here is not fatal. But at more than 75, enzyme activity drops sharply. Overheat ninada.

We close the lid and wrap the tank in a blanket / padded jacket as tightly as possible.

We are waiting for an hour and a half. 1 hour, 30 minutes. Patience... Patience...
While the malt is mashing, prepare the yeast. Yeast is dry and needs to be rehydrated.
We take a jar, a flask or something similar, sterilize it in boiling water and pour about 250 ml of boiled water into it. The water temperature is 20-24 degrees. We fall asleep there yeast from a bag and plug the neck with cotton wool. Nutrients are added to the composition of dry yeast for the first time, so you can get by with just water. They will start wandering there in half an hour.
An hour and a half has passed. Now we need to conduct the so-called "iodine test". We take a bit of wort with a spoon and drip iodine there. If the color has not changed, then there is no more starch in the mash, everything is split into sugars. And this is gud. If it turns blue, it's not good at all. You can still try to hold the wort under the covers, but most likely this will no longer help. Although I have yet to see a quality imported malt turn blue after mashing on an iodine test.
Now it's time for the mystical process aptly called mash-out. We put the tank on the stove and stirring constantly - because it burns, we bring the temperature of the mash to 78 degrees. Turn off the heat and soak again under the covers for 15 minutes. This is necessary to stop the activity of enzymes. The breakdown of starch stops.
During these 15 minutes, we prepare water for washing. This is such a special water, which differs from ordinary water only in that it is heated to 80 degrees. When we drain the primary wort, a lot of sugars will remain in the spent grains. It is not good to throw away a good thing, so we will try to wash them out of there.

What is the hose for? The thing is that hot wort actively oxidizes when it comes into contact with air. And this gives an extraneous aftertaste in beer. To minimize contact with air, a hose is needed.
At first, the wort will go very cloudy - the husk has not yet settled properly to the bottom, so we return the first drained liters back. There is a subtlety here - it is important for us that a filter layer is formed, but pouring the wort back into the tank, we stir up the sediment again. Whatever it was, we put a large plate on top, let it sink, but everything will now pour on it and not disturb the pellet.
We drain slowly. As soon as the pure wort has gone, we stop returning it to the mash and begin to collect it in the fermenter.

At the same time, we make sure that the grain is not exposed. As soon as it appears, add flushing water. So, gradually, pouring and topping up, we need to collect 30-32 liters of wort. At the end, we stop pouring the washing water and simply drain everything that is. The first part of the Marleson ballet is completed. We throw out the grain, unscrew the filter, rinse the tank and pour the clean filtered wort into it. And let it boil. It will take a long time to heat up 30 liters, you can speed it up by covering it with a lid. But keep in mind, if you miss the moment of boiling, the wort will run away, and washing the stove from burnt sugar is hell and Israel. You will also hear from your wife a lot of interesting things about yourself, about beer and about the universe as a whole.
As soon as it boils, we weigh 20 grams of traditional hops and throw it in there. These are hops for bitterness. We detect 50 minutes, let it boil. In total, we need to cook for 90 minutes or an hour and a half. During this time, about 3-4 liters will boil away, any unnecessary will evaporate with steam, some of the sugars will caramelize and the walls of the room will be covered with drops of condensate.

Thoroughly wash the fermenter, fill it with water and pour a vial of 5% pharmacy iodine into it. We also throw a water seal with a cork there and push the lid of the fermenter. This is disinfection. Iodine decomposes quickly, so it does not leave foreign odors and tastes. Instead of iodine, you can use special disinfectants, specialized stores sell them in disastrous quantities. Let's leave it like that.
After 50 minutes, we weigh 20 grams of Žatec and add it to the wort. These are hops for flavor.
15 minutes before the end of the boil, we connect the chiller to cold water and lower it into the wort. This is so that he has time to sterilize with boiling water.

Five minutes before the end of cooking, we add the remaining 20 grams of Žatec. These are aroma hops. In total, we will get about 20 IBUs (Bitterness Units). This is such a mild, pleasant bitterness.
Part of the wort is poured into a 100 ml beaker, which I forgot to write about in the equipment, and separately cooled strictly to 20 degrees to measure the density. We put the hydrometer there so that it floats and look at the value of the initial density (NP). In this recipe, we need to get 13.5% NP. If there is more, just add boiled water. If less, boil more. Although less is unlikely. In general, the output should be 28 liters.

(Here, unfortunately, a photo from another brew, the hydrometer shows 14.5%)

Upon completion of cooking, turn on the water in the chiller, turn off the heating. The meaning of the chiller is that the wort must be cooled as quickly as possible from 100 to 20-24 degrees suitable for yeast. This copper spiral will do it in 15 minutes. If you take the tank to the bathroom and put it in cold water, it will take 40-50 minutes. And the longer the wort stays in contact with the air, the more likely it is to infect it with "wild" yeast or bacteria, which fly around in abundance.

During these remaining five minutes, we run to the fermenter, pour out the iodine solution from there. Those who wish can rinse with boiled water, but, in principle, it will do. Drain the chilled wort into a clean, disinfected fermenter. From a height of at least a meter.

The meaning of this action is that the wort, falling, is saturated with oxygen. Yeast, they are living creatures, they also need to breathe. For low initial gravity beers like this, this method will work, but high gravity beers require additional aeration.
We take the yeast in a flask, by this time they will already give abundant foam and pour it into the wort.
We close the fermenter with a lid, insert a water seal (without pouring anything into it yet) and for another five minutes, shake it for more aeration. Again, shaking a 30 kg container is a good exercise. We take the fermenter to a dark and cool place and only then pour either vodka or boiled water into the water seal. If you immediately pour liquid, then at the first attempt to raise the fermenter, this liquid will instantly be sucked in.
All. Now wait 14 days. And, one more clarification: S-04 yeast requires a fermentation temperature of 18-25 degrees. If less, fermentation will be sluggish. If more - during the fermentation process, they will release a bunch of esters, which will affect the taste and aroma of beer unpredictably. Therefore, it is desirable to maintain this interval during fermentation.

Here, they are wandering. Below - the previous brew is standing, carbonized.

Two weeks passed….
By this time, we went to the store and bought a pack of liter PET bottles with stoppers and a pack of glucose / dextrose. This sugar is better absorbed by yeast than the usual one and does not give a sour taste. Now it's time to bottle the "green" or "young" beer.
To begin with, we pour a bit from the faucet into a beaker and measure the final beer gravity (CP). I got 5%. Which, considering the temperature at which we mashed (more unfermentable sugars) is quite normal. According to the table we find the alcohol content - 4.5%. Light and "full-bodied" beer, as expected.
In order for the beer to be saturated with carbon dioxide, it is necessary to add a bit of glucose to each bottle, since everything in the wort has already been eaten. Having eaten this sugar in a closed bottle, the yeast will just saturate the beer with gas. This is called "natural carbonation", as opposed to artificial saturation with carbon dioxide under pressure in kegs. There is, in fact, no difference. In this recipe, comrade Rhinoceros indicated 7 g / liter, so add 7 grams of dextrose or glucose to each bottle.
We open the fermenter, a couple of minutes go crazy from the smell. Then we take our silicone tube (preliminarily disinfected) or a special siphon, fill it with boiled water and, holding one end with a finger, lower the other into beer. The principle of the siphon, yeah, the fermenter should be higher than the bottles.
By the way, here, if a tube is still used, the help of another person is needed, preferably homo sapiens. All these gestures are in order to take the beer from above without touching the sediment, which will be 2-3 centimeters at the bottom.
Well, we remove the finger, wait until the water pours out somewhere and the beer goes and lower the tube to the very bottom of the bottle. Again avoid excessive contact with air. We fill the bottle. When three or four centimeters remain to the neck, we squeeze the bottle, squeezing out the air and close the lid. And so many times.
When everything is spilled, we leave these flounder-like bottles also in a dark and not necessarily cool place. One week for carbonation. During this time, the yeast will eat glucose, the bottles will inflate and become stone. By the way, it will also be a natural preservation. There is nothing to eat there, there is no oxygen either, there is no contact with air. Beer in PET bottles can be stored quietly for six months (no longer is necessary, after all, gas exchange occurs through the pores of plastic), and in glass for several years. After carbonation, the beer needs to be aged for another month, but I started opening it after a week. I'm not iron. Although after a month of exposure, it definitely got better. True, by that time half of the cooked was left ....

Wheat on the left, Black Rhino on the right.

Well actually everything. This method does not claim to be the only correct one. I wrote the way I did. There is an abyss of options here. But with this set of pots, you can cook whatever your heart desires. And my soul is capricious and restless.

The article will tell you about the principles of making beer at home.

Simple Classic Hop and Malt Homemade Beer Recipe and Ingredients: Brewing Process

Beer has been one of the most beloved drinks of mankind for several centuries in a row. However, it should be noted that the classical natural beer is significantly different from those alcoholic synthetic drinks that are now presented in a wide variety. Natural beer is not only tasty, it is also healthy, as it consists only of products of plant origin.

Of course, in the modern world you can find many establishments (beer boutiques, bars and restaurants) that have their own brewery. This pleasure is not cheap, and therefore not everyone can afford to have “their own brewery” for the production of beer at home. However, remembering the old "grandmother's recipes", you are quite capable of making beer at home, it is only important to observe the accuracy of the steps and the number of ingredients.

You can buy the main ingredients, in particular hops and malt, in the markets, where summer residents and villagers often sell what they have grown on their plot. If you did not find these products, they are always presented in the assortment of online grocery stores. As equipment for brewing, you do not need a mini-brewery and the whole process will cost only a fermentation tank (glass bottle) and a saucepan.

You need to stock up for the recipe:

  • Malt (only barley) - 4.5-5 kg
  • Hops - 4.5-5 stack. (need fresh buds)
  • Brewer's yeast - 50 g (fresh or dry can not be replaced)
  • Sugar - 140-150 g (required for the fermentation process)
  • Salt - 2/3 tbsp
  • Purified water - 20 l (filtered or purchased, without impurities, cold boiled can be used).

Brewing beer:

  • Soak the malt for about a day, dissolving it with all the purified water. Let stand until tomorrow.
  • After infusion, the liquid should be poured into a large saucepan, it is not necessary to filter it. Turn on the fire and add salt.
  • Boil the malt over moderate heat for about 2 hours.
  • After that, pour the hops into the pan, mix and cook for another 25 minutes.
  • Turn off the fire, cool the brew a little. Now it should be filtered. To do this, use gauze, folded twice or thrice. This is the must. Keep it warm, at about 30 degrees. Pour into a fermentation bottle.
  • In the strained wort, you can now pour the yeast along with sugar (it is important to do this at the same time). Stir thoroughly with a long wooden spoon.
  • Ferment beer should be up to 18 hours. The place where you place the bottle should be warm and dark.
  • After 18 hours of fermentation, bottle the beer and put it in the pantry, the drink will be ready only after 12-14 hours

IMPORTANT: From 20 liters of water you get almost 20 liters of beer, if you do not need a drink in such a large amount, you can evenly reduce the amount of all ingredients by two or three times.

How to make wort for beer?

Properly prepared beer wort is the secret to delicious beer that you can get from the very first time. Its preparation begins in several stages and, observing each, you will definitely do everything right.

Wort preparation steps:

  • Malt preparation. Malt is soaked grains of wheat. After they have sprouted, the liquid should be drained from them, and the grains themselves should be crushed. It is the malt that gives the beer a rich taste and body. You can crush it with a coffee grinder, meat grinder and even a blender (if there is such a function). The size of the crushed malt should be about half the size of a grain of buckwheat (this is very important for the entire brewing process).
  • Mashing. This process includes pouring grated malt with purified water and boiling. The process got its name many years ago and in brewing it is still referred to as "mash". During the cooking process, the starch of the grains is split and the acidity changes.
  • Readiness. The wort should be boiled for several hours. The characteristic sour aroma, richness of taste and color of the liquid will tell you about the readiness of the wort. After that, hops can be added to the wort and beer is brewed.


How to make homemade beer yourself without equipment in a saucepan: a simple recipe

A simple recipe for making homemade beer will not take you much time and effort. The method of brewing beer in a saucepan is simple and accessible to everyone. Adjust the amount of ingredients yourself, focusing on the required amount of the finished drink.

What do you need:

  • Hops - 15 g buds
  • Purified water - 5 l (plus 250 ml for sugar syrup).
  • Sugar - 240-250 g.
  • Dry yeast - 10 g (can be replaced with brewer's yeast).

Cooking process:

  • Boil the water
  • Add the hops to the pot and boil the liquid for exactly 1.5 hours.
  • While the hops are cooking, prepare the sugar syrup (water and sugar in equal parts - 1 tbsp each).
  • After 1.5 hours of boiling hops, pour the syrup into the liquid and continue boiling for another 20-25 minutes.
  • Remove the saucepan from the heat and leave to cool completely (to room temperature).
  • Pour yeast into liquid
  • Cover with a lid, let it ferment for 10-12 hours
  • After that, carefully strain the drink and bottle it. They must be closed tightly. Infuse the drink for another 2-3 days before drinking.


"Fast" house beer

Homemade Grain Dark Beer Recipe and Ingredients

Dark homemade beer will truly become your favorite "hoppy" drink, as it is not difficult to prepare, but the taste leaves an incredibly pleasant feeling.

What do you need:

  • Dry hops - 50 g (crushed or cones)
  • Chicory - 30 g (natural, without flavorings and flavorings).
  • Lemon peel - from one fruit
  • Grain mixture for wort - 450-500 g (barley, wheat).
  • Sugar - 3.5-4 tbsp.
  • Purified water - 10 l.

Brewing beer:

  • Dry the sprouted grain (soak it in advance) in a frying pan, the sun or in the oven (at low temperatures).
  • The sprouted grain mixture should be ground with a manual coffee grinder or meat grinder (there will be exactly the consistency that is needed).
  • Mix the grated grain mixture with chicory. Do this ahead of time in a brewing pot.
  • Pour the grain mixture with water and put on fire, boil.
  • Dissolve sugar in the remaining water
  • Pour water with sugar into a saucepan with the grain mixture
  • Add the required amount of hops and finely grated zest from one lemon.
  • Bring to a boil again and turn off the heat
  • Let the brew cool for 3 hours
  • Pour the cooled wort into a fermentation bottle (it should be twice as large as the pot in which you cooked).
  • Leave the bottle to ferment in a warm place (about 25 degrees) for a few days. If fermentation has not started, pour in additional brewer's yeast and leave for another day.
  • Fermented beer should be carefully filtered from the cake and only then poured into cleaned bottles, corked with lids.
  • The beer infusion time is another 3 days in a cool place (during this time it will be saturated with gases).


Homemade Barley Beer Recipe and Ingredients

What do you need:

  • barley grain - 500-600
  • Hops - 5.5-6 st. cones
  • Brewer's yeast or dry - 50 g.
  • Purified water - 6 l.
  • Sugar - 240-250 g.
  • Rusks of black and white bread - 2 tbsp.

Brewing beer:

  • Pour the grains into a glass jar
  • Fill the grains with water and in this state let them stand for about 3 days so that they germinate.
  • Drain the water from the grains, dry them. Remove the germinated parts.
  • The grain should be ground, it is necessary for the preparation of the wort.
  • After that, fill the ground grain with boiling water (1.5-2 liters) and let them stand for about an hour.
  • After that, pour the black and white croutons into the malt (barley mass).
  • Pour another 1-1.5 liters of boiling water and leave for another hour.
  • After infusion, the liquid should be well filtered.
  • Put on fire and add hops, cooking time 15-20 minutes over moderate heat.
  • After that, cool the liquid again and strain again.
  • Pour yeast into warm liquid and add sugar, mix well and leave to ferment for 2 or 3 days.
  • After fermentation, the beer is bottled and sent to infuse for up to 2 weeks in a cool place.


Craft beer recipe at home

Craft in translation means “craft”, which means that “craft beer” is a drink produced at home and not in large quantities. In the modern world, "craft" beer can be called any beer that is made in personal and private breweries using traditional technologies. This is always an author's product and therefore you can always experiment with beer ingredients to get the most intense taste.

INTERESTING: Craft beer is often made from ready-made wort, which can be freely purchased on sale. In the assortment you will always find a variety of types of beer for brewing at home.

Simple homemade craft beer:

  • Purchase 5 kg of barley wort
  • Pour the wort with 35 liters of purified water and put on fire
  • The liquid should be boiled and left to infuse
  • Strain and boil again (about an hour)
  • After half an hour of boiling, pour hops into the pan - 30 g (granules).
  • 5 minutes before the end of the boil, add another 20 g of hops
  • After boiling, cool the wort to 20 degrees
  • Pour the wort into a glass bottle
  • Add 10-11 g of brewer's yeast to the bottle
  • At room temperature, the beer should be infused for up to 2 weeks, after which it can be cooled and drunk.


Important tips for making and drinking beer:

  • Beer should only be drunk after a complete brewing and brewing process, in no case should the finished beer be diluted with water.
  • No ingredients other than hops, malt, water, sugar, and yeast should be added to beer.
  • Homemade beer, corked in bottles, can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than six months.
  • Use only glassware for fermentation
  • Crush the malt with a meat grinder or coffee grinder, the blender can turn the grain into flour, and this is bad for the beer fermentation process.

Video: "Brewing beer at home"

Malt. Hop. We brew beer.

The preparation of beer takes place in several stages and on an industrial scale, of course, is almost completely automated. A person can only control the equipment. When brewing beer at home, the situation is quite different.

Of course, a lot of good and convenient equipment for brewing beer at home is being sold now, but the price of this equipment can surprise, and sometimes even scare. If you decide to try to brew beer at home, then I would advise you not to rush to spend money. The stages of beer brewing are the same both in industrial brewing and in home brewing, but the approaches to these stages and the equipment are significantly different.

What do you need to brew beer at home?

Almost everyone has the most minimal set - a wooden spoon and an enameled or stainless steel saucepan. You will also need an electronic kitchen scale and, as well as an ordinary sieve. This is the minimum kit for brewing beer at home.

What would be nice to have?

If you're brewing beer for the first time, then you don't have to worry about a bunch of equipment. In general, you will also need a fermentation tank with a water seal, a malt mill and much more that you can do without. Since this article is aimed at those who first decided to brew beer with their own hands, I will try to get by with a minimum set of tools and equipment.

Stages of brewing beer at home.

As I wrote above, the preparation of beer consists of several stages. Each stage has its purpose and pursues a specific goal, so it cannot be said that one or another stage is more important than others - they are all needed, otherwise the beer simply will not work.

Stage one: Preparation.

At the preparation stage, our task is to find all the necessary equipment and wash it thoroughly. Next, you need to measure and grind the malt (you can buy ground malt), calculate the required amount of mash water and heat it up.

Naturally, all proportions of malts, hops and water should be taken based on the recipe. You can choose any from our site. All of them are verified and tested in practice.

Also, do not be afraid of small deviations from the recipe in the amount of malt or water. However, with hops, you should not deviate much from the recipe.
When everything is prepared and washed, and the malt is ground, you can proceed to the second stage.

Second stage: Mashing.

At the stage of mashing, fermentation and saccharification of starch occurs. Since different enzymes work at different temperatures, when mashing malt, you should maintain temperature pauses in accordance with the recipe.

So, you have poured the right amount of water into the pan - this is mash water. We heat the mash water to the temperature of the first temperature pause and pour in the ground malt (). At the same time, mix everything well with a wooden spoon to avoid clumping.

During the temperature pause, it is important to monitor the temperature of the mash, it should not rise, but also should not fall, so the heating should be reduced or turned off altogether. At the same time, it is necessary to periodically mix the mash and control its temperature.

After the time allotted for a pause, the heating is turned on again to the maximum and the brewing of home-brewed beer continues. When the next temperature pause is reached, everything repeats again.

Usually, after a pause of 72 degrees, it is done, after which the temperature rises to the last pause and at this the mashing stage ends.

The third stage of brewing home beer: Removing from the sediment and boiling the wort.

Now that the mashing is complete, the wort is drained into another container - this can be done through a simple sieve. The malt left after mashing is called grain. The pellet is washed to extract the maximum amount of sugars. At this stage, the amount of wort removed will be greater than the planned amount of finished beer.

Now we need to measure the density of the wort. If you don't have a hydrometer and you followed the recipe, you can skip this, this measurement is not critical when brewing homemade beer, it will still be delicious. To measure the density, a small amount of wort is taken and must be cooled to 20 degrees. After that, freezing is done. The rest of the wort is put on fire and brought to a boil. It is important that the boiling process occurs quite rapidly and without a lid. Otherwise, your beer will have a vegetable flavor.

During cooking, hops are added in accordance with the recipe. After the end of the boil, the loss of wort will be about 20% -30%, so you can add hot water during the boil. It is important to control the density.

When cooking is completed, we move on to the next step.

Stage 4: filtration, cooling, adding yeast.

Hot wort must be cooled as soon as possible. To do this, you can use, and if it is not there, then just put the pan in a bath of cold water or in the snow. Stir the wort to cool it down quickly. In the process of cooling the wort, it can also be removed from the sediment by filtering through a sieve, gauze or other filters.

When the temperature of the wort is 20-24 degrees, you should select 10% of the wort for the primer and put it in the refrigerator. You also need to take a small amount of wort to rehydrate the yeast (how to do this, read here)

After adding the yeast, the wort is poured into the fermentation tank and sent for fermentation.

Fermentation stage of home beer.

When we brew beer at home, it happens that fermentation takes place in 2 days, and it happens that it starts only on the second day - do not be alarmed. usually fermentation takes 3-4 days. After the yeast cap has settled, fermentation is complete and can be bottled.

The final stage of brewing homemade beer.

A primer is added to the fermentation tank, the young beer is well mixed, left for 30-40 minutes and bottled. Try to minimize the amount of sediment in your bottles. Then the bottles are sent for fermentation for 2-3 weeks.

After fermentation, your homemade beer, hand-brewed with malt and hops, is ready.

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I bring to your attention an interesting instruction on how you can easily brew delicious beer at home, which will definitely appeal to all your friends. Be sure to read on!

Equipment.

The first thing you need is a saucepan or a tank of 40 liters. You can enameled, you can use stainless steel. Stainless steel is better, but more expensive. Enameled container is also nothing, but three times cheaper. I bought this miracle for 2000 rubles. I just found it, by the way. For home use, pots can be dispensed with when cooking up to 50 liters. Then you need to buy more serious equipment, since it is difficult and dangerous to carry 50 liters of boiling water with your hands.

According to the degree of hardcore, home brewing can be divided into two types: concentrate and all-grain (grain).
In the first case, we have the wort ready, in the form of an evaporated concentrate. It's not chemistry. This is what neither is a natural product. Now the choice of concentrates is very large, you can pick up something for every taste. They cost around 800 rubles for a can of 20 liters of finished beer.

In the second, we buy malt and mock it ourselves. There are, however, absolutely perfectionists, they themselves make malt from barley and prepare water, achieving the necessary mineralization. Well, for example, if some beer is brewed in the English village of Fuckthishole, then the mineral composition of the local water is found out and the same is made. This is over 80 level house. brewing. For lovers, it is enough to buy good water in a store or draw from a nearby well / spring / tap.

Next, you need to turn a banal pan into a wort mash. You can use two containers, one for mashing, the second for cooking, but in an apartment, the less bulky rubbish, the less the wife swears. Which is important for a brewer. We go to the nearest construction market and buy the necessary parts:

1. Half inch brass clamp, plus two locknuts, plus two silicone gaskets, plus two PTFE gaskets.
2. Ball valve with female thread also ½ inch.
3. American for soldering with a copper tube.
4. Elbow.
5. Three copper tees with a diameter of 15mm.
6. Four corners 15 mm.
7. Two meters of unannealed copper tube.
We drill a hole in the pan as low as possible (here, who has what kind of tool and hand-to-hand skill), trying to minimally damage the enamel, and assemble this design:

We first put a silicone gasket to the wall of the pan, and a fluoroplastic gasket on it. Otherwise, the nuts will seize the silicone.

Well, here is the ready-made brewer. Now let's upgrade it to the mash. Here it is necessary to delve a little into the theory.
Mashing is the process of keeping the mash (water + malt) at a certain temperature. This holding is called a temperature pause. During this time, the enzymes in the malt break down the starch, which is a polysaccharide, into simpler sugars that the yeast can eat. The enzymes involved in this process are the so-called alpha and beta-amylases. According to the figurative expression of one of our colleagues, if we imagine starch as a tree, then beta-amylases bite small twigs (fermentable sugars), reach the fork of the branch and freeze, and alpha cuts randomly into arbitrary pieces (non-fermentable sugars). The thing is that these enzymes are most active at different temperatures. Beta-amylase at 60-65 degrees, alpha - at 70-75. Accordingly, if we let the beta work longer, we will get a wort of maximum fermentability, a high amount of alcohol, but an empty taste, because the yeast will turn all the sugars into alcohol and water. On the contrary, if alpha-amylases rule, then the beer will be dense, rich, but very light, because there will be practically nothing for yeast to eat there. By combining temperature pauses and achieve the desired balance between the body of beer and alcohol. Here, the theory is rough.
To turn our tank into a mash we need to assemble a filter element. This, unfortunately, requires some manual work.

To begin with, we take an American, a tee, a piece of copper tube and solder one to the other.

Soldering copper pipes is easy. You need solder, always lead-free, and flux. All this is freely sold in the markets or in plumbing stores. Solder look Sn97-Cu3. Without flux, soldering will not work, the solder will stupidly drain from the copper. If there is a gas burner for soldering, it’s good, if not, a gas stove will do. We clean the surfaces, apply the flux in a thin layer, put everything together and heat it up. When small droplets of tin appear on the parts smeared with flux, we bring the solder wire to the joint and the tin itself will be drawn into it under the action of capillary forces. Cool down and voila. Just remember, copper has exceptional thermal conductivity, work only with a tool, otherwise a severe burn is guaranteed. Copper cannot be thrown from hand to hand like an ember, even a short touch is a burn.

We fasten the resulting horseradish to the drive and determine the length of the tubes to the walls of the pan. The filter must be in place.

So, we are gradually assembling such a structure.

In the tubes with a hacksaw we make cuts a third of the diameter and about a millimeter wide. We do not solder the tubes in two places, we leave them collapsible so that the filter can be washed.
Together:

Here is such a shaitan device.
The last thing you need a hand-ass for is a cooler, or, as it is called, a chiller. Again we go to the market and buy 10-12 meters of annealed copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm and several meters (depending on how far the brewing will be from the connection point to cold water) of any hose, plus a couple of clamps. The annealed tube, in contrast, is easily bent by hand. So we bend, winding on something that is suitable in diameter. Then, carefully, with a large radius, so as not to break, we bring the end up. For rigidity, you can solder the coils to the vertical tubes, but I just wound it with copper wire (there should be an “ass” in the hand-ass).

Now let's move on to what is problematic to do yourself.

1. Hydrometer AC-3. This garbage is needed to measure the density of the wort. You can do without it, but it's better with it. Many use refractometers for this, but I myself have not used them, I will not say anything.
2. Fermentation tank. Now many online stores offer such 32-liter barrels with a water seal (4) and a faucet (5) at once. Also with a scale and a glued liquid crystal thermometer. You can buy it this way, or you can buy it separately. But, if in brewing shops this tank costs 300 - 350 rubles, then in offices selling plastic containers, it also costs 160 rubles. A matter of taste and laziness.
3. Mill for malt. Specifically, this one is called Comfort-500, made at the state farm named after the 47th anniversary of Mao, it looks scary, metal processing is at the level of the Stone Age, but it costs one and a half thousand and performs its function. The same, but made in Belgium costs already 3.500. Advanced two- or three-roll mills already cost from 5 to 9 thousand. No coffee grinders, meat grinders and blenders will work. I'll explain why a little later. A rolling pin will come up, but it will not be grinding, but the punishment of God and the seven plagues of the Egyptians.
4. ---
5. ---
6. Accurate digital thermometer with remote probe. Accurate at least within a degree. The thing is absolutely necessary. The one in the picture, I foolishly bought for 1500 rubles. Then it turned out that it was possible to buy a good Chinese thermometer for 300 rubles. On Avito.
7. Scales. It also needs to be more or less accurate. If within a gram, then perfect. In the picture Energy-403, weigh up to 5 kg, there is a tare function. Accuracy - grams. Well, that's how it's written.

The last thing we need is a meter and a half two SILICONE hose under the fitting on the pan. I did not draw it, a hose and a hose, such a transparent one. It is needed to drain the hot wort. PVC will not work, it stinks when heated and emits all sorts of muck from itself. We need a medical silicone hose suitable for sterilization. Where to get it - depends only on your imagination.
Actually everything. A microbrewery for the home, for the family, is ready. There are still all sorts of small things that make the process easier, but at first you can do without. The budget for all this mess ranges from 10 to 15 thousand. Depending on the.

Now, let's move on to the actual brewing of beer. I just want to clarify right away that in addition to equipment and ingredients, you will also need a lot of patience. The brewing process itself takes 6-8 hours, fermentation from 7 to 14 days, exposure from a couple of weeks to a year. That is, even in the simplest case, you will try your first one no earlier than a month after cooking. But believe me, it's worth it.
And another important point. The room in which all this demonism takes place must be clean. No mold in the corners, no fermented milk products around. No animals. Wort is a super-nutrient medium for fungi and bacteria. Therefore, the cleaner the room, the less chance of beer contamination. I will write about the disinfection of equipment later.
So, we will cook the Black Rhinoceros. This recipe, being clearly in a state of enlightenment, was invented by a friend from one club house. brewers with the nickname Rhinoceros. Dark beer. Therefore, black.
We will need, based on 28 liters of finished beer (we are limited to a 32-liter fermenter):
Munich malt, Munich, with color EBC 25 (there will be “Munich-25” in stores) - 5.77 kg.
Melanoidin malt, Melano, EBC 80 - 0.87 kg.
Caramel malt, Cara, EBC 50 (you can Cara-150, it will be darker and richer) - 0.35 kg.
Traditional hops, also known as Traditional - 20 grams.
Hops Saaz or Saaz - 40 grams.
Yeast Fermentis Safale S-04 - one sachet about 11 grams.
First things first, the malt must be ground. We get our hellish mill and forward. You can twist it with your hands, you can attach a screwdriver, I acted more cunningly and plowed my small one. Six kilos of malt will require half an hour of time with smoke breaks.

The trick of grinding malt is that it is necessary to obtain not flour, but grains crushed into several parts and at the same time undamaged shells. That's why no coffee grinders are suitable. These shells, settling on the bottom of the mash, form a filter layer through which the wort is actually filtered. And it flows out through our filter system of copper pipes. The cuts are small enough for the husks to slip through, but large enough for filtering to take a reasonable amount of time. Without this husk, the grains will quickly clog the slots and the wort will be filtered before the onset of democracy in North Korea. This is what ground malt looks like:

This recipe uses a single mash at 72 degrees. Above, I talked about how temperature affects congestion. So this beer should turn out to be “full-bodied” with a small amount of alcohol. We put a filter in the tank, take four times more water (24 liters) relative to the amount of malt and heat it up to 78 degrees, when adding malt, the temperature will drop to the 72 we need. By the way, a degree there, a degree here is not fatal. But at more than 75, enzyme activity drops sharply. Overheat ninada.

Heated - we fall asleep malt, mix. (photographed on Comfort-500, the quality is comparable). We measure the temperature.
Should be 72 degrees.

We close the lid and wrap the tank in a blanket / padded jacket as tightly as possible.

We are waiting for an hour and a half. 1 hour, 30 minutes. Patience... Patience...
While the malt is mashing, prepare the yeast. Yeast is dry and needs to be rehydrated.
We take a jar, a flask or something similar, sterilize it in boiling water and pour about 250 ml of boiled water into it. The water temperature is 20-24 degrees. We fall asleep there yeast from a bag and plug the neck with cotton wool. Nutrients are added to the composition of dry yeast for the first time, so you can get by with just water. They will start wandering there in half an hour.
An hour and a half has passed. Now we need to conduct the so-called "iodine test". We take a bit of wort with a spoon and drip iodine there. If the color has not changed, then there is no more starch in the mash, everything is split into sugars. And this is gud. If it turns blue, it's not good at all. You can still try to hold the wort under the covers, but most likely this will no longer help. Although I have yet to see a quality imported malt turn blue after mashing on an iodine test.
Now it's time for the mystical process aptly called mash-out. We put the tank on the stove and stirring constantly - because it burns, we bring the temperature of the mash to 78 degrees. Turn off the heat and soak again under the covers for 15 minutes. This is necessary to stop the activity of enzymes. The breakdown of starch stops.
During these 15 minutes, we prepare water for washing. This is such a special water, which differs from ordinary water only in that it is heated to 80 degrees. When we drain the primary wort, a lot of sugars will remain in the spent grains. It is not good to throw away a good thing, so we will try to wash them out of there.
It's time to filter the congestion. We put a silicone hose on the fitting, drag our plastic fermenter and open the tap.

What is the hose for? The thing is that hot wort actively oxidizes when it comes into contact with air. And this gives an extraneous aftertaste in beer. To minimize contact with air, a hose is needed.
At first, the wort will go very cloudy - the husk has not yet settled properly to the bottom, so we return the first drained liters back. There is a subtlety here - it is important for us that a filter layer is formed, but pouring the wort back into the tank, we stir up the sediment again. Whatever it was, we put a large plate on top, let it sink, but everything will now pour on it and not disturb the pellet.
We drain slowly. As soon as the pure wort has gone, we stop returning it to the mash and begin to collect it in the fermenter.

At the same time, we make sure that the grain is not exposed. As soon as it appears, add flushing water. So, gradually, pouring and topping up, we need to collect 30-32 liters of wort. At the end, we stop pouring the washing water and simply drain everything that is. The first part of the Marleson ballet is completed. We throw out the grain, unscrew the filter, rinse the tank and pour the clean filtered wort into it. And let it boil. It will take a long time to heat up 30 liters, you can speed it up by covering it with a lid. But keep in mind, if you miss the moment of boiling, the wort will run away, and washing the stove from burnt sugar is hell and Israel. You will also hear from your wife a lot of interesting things about yourself, about beer and about the universe as a whole.
As soon as it boils, we weigh 20 grams of traditional hops and throw it in there. These are hops for bitterness. We detect 50 minutes, let it boil. In total, we need to cook for 90 minutes or an hour and a half. During this time, about 3-4 liters will boil away, any unnecessary will evaporate with steam, some of the sugars will caramelize and the walls of the room will be covered with drops of condensate.

Thoroughly wash the fermenter, fill it with water and pour a vial of 5% pharmacy iodine into it. We also throw a water seal with a cork there and push the lid of the fermenter. This is disinfection. Iodine decomposes quickly, so it does not leave foreign odors and tastes. Instead of iodine, you can use special disinfectants, specialized stores sell them in disastrous quantities. Let's leave it like that.
After 50 minutes, we weigh 20 grams of Žatec and add it to the wort. These are hops for flavor.
15 minutes before the end of the boil, we connect the chiller to cold water and lower it into the wort. This is so that he has time to sterilize with boiling water.

Five minutes before the end of cooking, we add the remaining 20 grams of Žatec. These are aroma hops. In total, we will get about 20 IBUs (Bitterness Units). This is such a mild, pleasant bitterness.
Part of the wort is poured into a 100 ml beaker, which I forgot to write about in the equipment, and separately cooled strictly to 20 degrees to measure the density. We put the hydrometer there so that it floats and look at the value of the initial density (NP). In this recipe, we need to get 13.5% NP. If there is more, just add boiled water. If less, boil more. Although less is unlikely. In general, the output should be 28 liters.
(Here, unfortunately, a photo from another brew, the hydrometer shows 14.5%)

Upon completion of cooking, turn on the water in the chiller, turn off the heating. The meaning of the chiller is that the wort must be cooled as quickly as possible from 100 to 20-24 degrees suitable for yeast. This copper spiral will do it in 15 minutes. If you take the tank to the bathroom and put it in cold water, it will take 40-50 minutes. And the longer the wort stays in contact with the air, the more likely it is to infect it with "wild" yeast or bacteria, which fly around in abundance.
During these remaining five minutes, we run to the fermenter, pour out the iodine solution from there. Those who wish can rinse with boiled water, but, in principle, it will do. Drain the chilled wort into a clean, disinfected fermenter. From a height of at least a meter.

The meaning of this action is that the wort, falling, is saturated with oxygen. Yeast, they are living creatures, they also need to breathe. For low initial gravity beers like this, this method will work, but high gravity beers require additional aeration.
We take the yeast in a flask, by this time they will already give abundant foam and pour it into the wort.
We close the fermenter with a lid, insert a water seal (without pouring anything into it yet) and for another five minutes, shake it for more aeration. Again, shaking a 30 kg container is a good exercise. We take the fermenter to a dark and cool place and only then pour either vodka or boiled water into the water seal. If you immediately pour liquid, then at the first attempt to raise the fermenter, this liquid will instantly be sucked in.
All. Now wait 14 days. And, one more clarification: S-04 yeast requires a fermentation temperature of 18-25 degrees. If less, fermentation will be sluggish. If more - during the fermentation process, they will release a bunch of esters, which will affect the taste and aroma of beer unpredictably. Therefore, it is desirable to maintain this interval during fermentation.
Here, they are wandering. Below - the previous brew is standing, carbonized.

Two weeks passed….
By this time, we went to the store and bought a pack of liter PET bottles with stoppers and a pack of glucose / dextrose. This sugar is better absorbed by yeast than the usual one and does not give a sour taste. Now it's time to bottle the "green" or "young" beer.
To begin with, we pour a bit from the faucet into a beaker and measure the final beer gravity (CP). I got 5%. Which, considering the temperature at which we mashed (more unfermentable sugars) is quite normal. According to the table we find the alcohol content - 4.5%. Light and "full-bodied" beer, as expected.
In order for the beer to be saturated with carbon dioxide, it is necessary to add a bit of glucose to each bottle, since everything in the wort has already been eaten. Having eaten this sugar in a closed bottle, the yeast will just saturate the beer with gas. This is called "natural carbonation", as opposed to artificial saturation with carbon dioxide under pressure in kegs. There is, in fact, no difference. In this recipe, comrade Rhinoceros indicated 7 g / liter, so add 7 grams of dextrose or glucose to each bottle.
We open the fermenter, a couple of minutes go crazy from the smell. Then we take our silicone tube (preliminarily disinfected) or a special siphon, fill it with boiled water and, holding one end with a finger, lower the other into beer. The principle of the siphon, yeah, the fermenter should be higher than the bottles.
By the way, here, if a tube is still used, the help of another person is needed, preferably homo sapiens. All these gestures are in order to take the beer from above without touching the sediment, which will be 2-3 centimeters at the bottom.
Well, we remove the finger, wait until the water pours out somewhere and the beer goes and lower the tube to the very bottom of the bottle. Again avoid excessive contact with air. We fill the bottle. When three or four centimeters remain to the neck, we squeeze the bottle, squeezing out the air and close the lid. And so many times.

When everything is spilled, we leave these flounder-like bottles also in a dark and not necessarily cool place. One week for carbonation. During this time, the yeast will eat glucose, the bottles will inflate and become stone. By the way, it will also be a natural preservation. There is nothing to eat there, there is no oxygen either, there is no contact with air. Beer in PET bottles can be stored quietly for six months (no longer is necessary, after all, gas exchange occurs through the pores of plastic), and in glass for several years. After carbonation, the beer needs to be aged for another month, but I started opening it after a week. I'm not iron. Although after a month of exposure, it definitely got better. True, by that time half of the cooked was left ....
Well actually everything. This method does not claim to be the only correct one. I wrote the way I did. There is an abyss of options here. But with this set of pots, you can cook whatever your heart desires. And my soul is capricious and restless.



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