What to plant next to a cabbage bed to protect it from pests and diseases. Vegetable crop compatibility

For many centuries of growing vegetables, people have noticed that some vegetables grow well together, and some, on the contrary, interfere with each other's growth. Vegetables, herbs, and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart planting will provide you with a big harvest.

The choice of neighbors in the garden.

Choosing your garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but next to another companion plant. Such tactics help to minimize the harmful effects of insects and diseases.

Neighborhood rules in the garden. When choosing neighbors in the garden, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Vegetables from the cabbage family, for example, are well planted next to beets and green leafy crops. Some herbs will help deter pests from cabbage. Planted in the same garden as cabbage, mint will enhance its flavor.

Vegetables can experience not only sympathy, but also antipathy towards each other: some vegetables stun the growth and reduce the yield of each other. A simple sign below will help you choose a good neighborhood.

What vegetables grow well in the same garden?

I offer you a brief table of compatibility of vegetables. More information is further in the article.

Vegetables	Good Neighborhood	Bad Neighborhood
Asparagus	tomatoes	No
Beans	Corn, celery, garden savory, cucumbers, radishes, strawberries	Onion and garlic
Beet	Cabbage, broccoli, lettuce, onion, garlic	Beans
cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts	Beets, chard, potatoes, celery, dill, lettuce, onion, spinach	beans
Carrot	Legumes, tomatoes	No
Celery	Beans, tomatoes, cabbage	No
Corn	Cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkin, peas, beans, pumpkin	Tomatoes
cucumbers	Beans, corn, peas, cabbage	No
Eggplant	Beans, pepper	No
Melon	Corn, pumpkin, radish, zucchini	No
Onion	Beets, carrots, chard, lettuce, peppers	Legumes
Peas	Beans, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, corn, radishes.	Onion garlic
Potato	Beans, corn, peas	tomatoes
vegetable marrow	Corn, melons, pumpkins	No
tomatoes	Carrots, celery, cucumbers, onions, peppers	Corn, kohlrabi, potatoes

Other Useful Neighbors for Vegetables

In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crop with another, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in the beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.

Flowers next to vegetables.

Good advice: plant a few marigolds in the garden with tomatoes, they repel pests. Marigolds can completely decorate the entire garden around the perimeter - this will help keep pests at a distance.

Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very fond of aphids. These pests will prefer to eat nasturtium, and will not pay attention to vegetables growing nearby.

Vegetables and herbs.

Herbs planted nearby will give your vegetables more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good universal barrier against most insect pests.

Deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also by common sense. Lettuce, radishes, and other fast growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radish will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Shadow loving green leafy vegetables, such as spinach and chard, are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well in the neighborhood of corn, as their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.

Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.

Plant compatibility.

Neighbors for carrots.

What can you plant carrots next to? The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:

• beans;
• sage;
• radish;
• salad;
• rosemary;
• peas;
• tomatoes.

But the negative neighborhood for carrots:

• dill;
• parsley.

Optimal conditions for pepper.

• basil;
• coriander;
• bow;
• spinach;
• tomatoes.

Do not plant peppers near beans.

Potato and its neighbors.

What can you plant potatoes next to? Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:

• beans;
• broccoli;
• cabbage;
• corn;
• eggplant;
• garlic;
• lettuce;
• bow;
• peas;
• radish.

You can not plant potatoes if they grow nearby:

• cucumbers;
• melons;
• zucchini;
• sunflowers;
• tomatoes;
• turnip.

Tomato neighbors.

• asparagus;
• basil;
• beans;
• cucumbers;
• carrots;
• celery
• dill;
• lettuce;
• melons;
• bow;
• parsley;
• pepper;
• radish;
• spinach;
• thyme;

Do not have tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn nearby.

Neighbors for asparagus.

What can you plant asparagus next to? Great neighborhood for asparagus will be:

• basil;
• beet;
• salad;
• parsley;
• spinach;
• tomatoes.

What can not be planted with asparagus?

Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.

Neighbors for beans.

What can you plant beans next to? The optimal neighborhood for beans:

• broccoli;
• cabbage;
• carrot;
• celery;
• cauliflower;
• cucumbers;
• eggplant;
• peas;
• potato;
• radish;
• vegetable marrow;
• strawberry;
• tomatoes.

Undesirable neighborhood for beans:

• garlic;
• sunflowers;
• pepper.

Neighbors in the garden for beets.

What can you plant beets next to? Beetroot will give more yield next to:

• broccoli;
• asparagus;
• cauliflower;
• lettuce;
• bow.

Unwanted beet garden neighbors:

• mustard;
• beans.

Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.

What to plant broccoli next to? Optimal neighborhood for broccoli:

• beans;
• beet;
• celery;
• cucumbers;
• potato;
• sage.

Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:

• cabbage;
• cauliflower;
• salad;
• string beans;
• tomatoes.

Neighbors in the garden for Brussels sprouts.

What is the best planting for Brussels sprouts? Best neighbors:

• dill;
• salad;
• radish;
• sage;
• spinach;
• turnip.

Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor - tomatoes.

Neighbors for cabbage.

What can you plant cabbage next to?

• beans;
• celery;
• cucumbers;
• dill;
• salad;
• potato;
• sage;
• spinach;
• thyme.

Unwanted neighbors in the cabbage garden:

• broccoli;
• cauliflower;
• strawberry;
• tomatoes.

Cauliflower and its neighbors.

• beans;
• beet;
• celery;
• cucumbers;
• sage;
• thyme.

Bad neighbors for cauliflower:

• broccoli;
• cabbage;
• strawberry;
• tomatoes.

Companions of celery.

Celery has no unwanted neighbors. But it is better to grow it next to:

• beans;
• broccoli;
• cabbage;
• cauliflower;
• leek;
• spinach;
• tomatoes.

What beds to do next to the cucumbers?

• beans;
• broccoli;
• corn;
• cabbage;
• cauliflower;
• sunflowers;
• peas;
• lettuce;
• radish.

You can not plant cucumbers next to herbs, melons and potatoes.

Corn and its neighborhood.

• beans;
• cucumbers;
• salad;
• melons;
• peas;
• potato;
• zucchini;
• sunflowers.

But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!

Suggestions for eggplant

Eggplants do not have unwanted neighbors in the garden, but they feel great next to:

• basil;
• beans;
• lettuce;
• peas;
• potatoes;
• spinach.

Lettuce.

Optimal bed companions for lettuce:

• asparagus;
• beet;
• cabbage;
• Brussels sprouts;
• carrot;
• cucumbers;
• peas;
• eggplant;
• potato;
• radish;
• spinach;
• strawberry;
• sunflowers;
• tomatoes.

But broccoli is the worst companion for lettuce.

What to plant onions next to?

The best neighborhood for onions will be:

• beet;
• tomatoes;
• broccoli;
• spinach;
• cabbage;
• potato;
• carrot;
• salad;
• pepper.

Worst:

• beans;
• peas;
• sage.

Peas and its neighbors in the garden.

With what vegetables next to place beds with peas? Peas feel great next door to:

• beans;
• carrots;
• corn;
• cucumbers;
• eggplant;
• lettuce;
• melons;
• parsnip;
• potatoes;
• radish;
• spinach;
• turnip.

You can not plant peas near the ridges with onions and garlic.

Useful weeds in the garden.

Sometimes plants can be useful to each other only at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds be useful in the garden? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of the soil and bring them to the surface. When weeds die and decay, nutrients become available on the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. That is why some vegetables grow very well in the neighborhood of nettles.

Neighboring plants, mixed and compacted plantings - the topic for gardeners and especially gardeners is not new, because the plots must be rationally used. However, until now there are no rules for mixed growing plants, and each gardener or gardener uses his own options, guided by own experience and individual observations of specialists. Therefore, it is very often possible to see a combination of incompatible plants on the plots.

beans. The most favorable relationship that can be described as mutual assistance exists between beans and cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. They go well with sweet corn, potatoes, radishes, radishes, spinach, mustard.

The inclusion of beans in the planting of these crops improves their nitrogen supply. fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil.

Other useful herbs for beans: borage, lavender, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. It is not recommended to plant beans with onions, leeks, chives and garlic. The neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.

Grape. In Moldova, as mentioned earlier, it was studied a large number of cultivated plants for their compatibility with grapes. A stimulating effect on the growth of grapes was provided by corn, beans, rye, potatoes, radishes, and oilseed radishes.

A negative effect was noted when planting together with onions, barley, soybeans, cabbage. The incompatibility of grapes and cabbage has been known for a long time. Already in ancient greece knew that cabbage was the enemy of the vine.

This may seem surprising, because other plants of the cabbage family are not so hostile to grapes, while radish and oilseed radish, on the contrary, have a beneficial effect on it.

Peas. Mutual assistance relations were noted in peas with carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. It grows well between the rows of these crops, helping them, in turn, by enriching the soil with nitrogen, like all legumes.

Peas can be combined on the same bed with radish, radish, head lettuce, kohlrabi, parsley. Combinations of peas with types of onions, garlic, tomatoes are unfavorable. Of the herbs, wormwood has a bad effect on peas.

There are conflicting opinions about the relationship of peas with potatoes and cabbage: some authors consider these combinations quite possible, others treat them negatively.

Cabbage. Different types of cabbage are characterized by rather close preferences in relation to accompanying plants.

Mutual aid relationships are noted in cabbage with bush beans and celery. These species favorably act on each other, and celery, in addition, protects cabbage from earthen fleas.

Dill, planted between the rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars, aphids. The proximity of borage grass is also favorable for cabbage, it has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard hairy leaves.

A very good companion crop for cabbage is all types of lettuce. They also protect her from the earthen flea. Cabbage also needs protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on the leaves.

This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, hyssop, medicinal wormwood, chamomile around plantings of cabbage.

Leek repels cutworm caterpillars. Cabbage can be combined on the same bed with cucumbers, tomatoes, spinach, beets, chard, potatoes, chicory. There is no consensus on its compatibility with strawberries and onions.

Of all types of cabbage, kohlrabi is the most suitable partner for table beets and a bad neighbor for tomatoes. Cabbage does not go well with parsley and suffers greatly from close-growing grapes. Tansy does not work well on kale.

Potato. Favorably growing potatoes in a mixed culture. It is less sick and can grow longer in one place without reducing the yield. The best partners for potatoes are spinach, bush beans and beans.

Beans planted between rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially cauliflower and kohlrabi, lettuce, corn, radish.

The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, marigolds. It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery, sunflower and quinoa have a depressing effect on potatoes.

Concerning the relationship of potatoes with tomatoes, beets and peas, there are opposite opinions.

Strawberry. Strawberries are favorably affected by bush beans, spinach, parsley. Parsley is recommended to be planted between the rows of strawberries to repel slugs. Strawberries can be combined with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes, beets.

Of the herbs, borage (borage) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil with spruce and pine needles contributes to a significant improvement in the taste of strawberries.

Corn. It belongs to plants that are very demanding on nutrition, therefore, it is advised to alternate blocks of corn with blocks of bush beans; she benefits from the neighborhood of this leguminous plant, soil improver.

Corn is combined with cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, early potatoes. These crops stimulate its growth. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots.

In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a positive effect on sunflower, potatoes, grapes. Bad neighbors for her are celery and beetroot.

Onion. Classic combination- onions and carrots. These two crops protect each other from pests: carrots drive away the onion fly, and onions drive away the carrot fly. Thanks to its compact form, onions are used as an additional crop, which is placed in the aisles of the main crop.

It is combined with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, radishes, watercress. There is no consensus regarding the combination of onions with cabbage. Some authors believe that onions have a good effect on cabbage and drive away its pests.

Savory bordering is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but in small quantities: approximately one plant per 1 linear meter. m beds. Onions do not combine with beans, peas, beans. For him, the neighborhood of sage is unfavorable.

Leek. Companion plants for leeks are celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets. Leeks and celeriacs have a helpful relationship, so it is recommended to plant them in alternating rows.

Perennial onion (chives). It goes well with tomatoes, celery, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, endives, it is not recommended to plant next to peas, beans, beets.

Carrot. It tolerates the neighborhood of many crops, grows well next to onions and spinach, and also goes well with tomatoes, radishes, radishes, chard, chives, garlic, lettuce. But the closest plant to the carrot with which it has a mutual assistance relationship is the pea.

Cucumbers. For cucumbers, satellite plants are bush and curly beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel. Beans have the most favorable effect on cucumbers, so it is advised to plant beans around a plot with cucumbers. The cucumbers themselves are planted around corn, which greatly benefits from such a neighborhood.

Favorable herbs for cucumbers are chamomile, dill, borage. The question of the compatibility of cucumbers with tomatoes is not clear. Different authors express directly opposite opinions on this matter: some believe that this is a good combination, others that this is an absolutely impossible combination. So every gardener will have to find out this question most empirically.

Parsley. It is a companion plant for many crops: asparagus, roses, celery, leeks, peas, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, lettuce. It is recommended to plant it along the edges of the beds with tomatoes. Planted next to roses, it reduces the number of aphids on them; planted in the aisles of strawberries - drives away slugs.

Pepper. Companion plant - basil, hostile plant - fennel.

Radish. It tolerates mixed plantings with tomatoes, spinach, parsley, chard, onions, garlic, cabbage, strawberries, peas. Especially favorable for radish is its combination in the same row with leaf and head lettuce, which protect it from earthen flea.

Radish, planted between bush beans, has a particularly delicate taste and large roots. Beans also protect radishes from pests. Since radish seeds germinate quickly, it is recommended to plant them together with slow-growing crops (beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips) to mark the rows.

Radishes don't like extreme heat, therefore it is often sown in alternating rows with chervil, which shade it a little and protect it from overheating. Nasturtium and watercress, bordering radish beds, improve the taste of radishes, adding sharpness, and under the influence of leaf lettuce, it becomes more delicate.

The neighborhood of hyssop is unfavorable for radishes. Some gardeners believe that cucumbers are also a bad neighbor for him.

Turnip. Companion plant - pea. Unfavorable for turnips are gulyavnik, mustard and highlander bird (knotweed).

Salad. Head and leaf lettuce (chives) goes well with most garden crops. It is a good companion for tomatoes, cucumbers, curly and bush beans, chives, spinach, strawberries, peas.

Its neighborhood is especially favorable for vegetables from the cruciferous family - all types of cabbage, radish, radish, as it repels the earthen flea. And for him, the neighborhood of an onion that repels aphids is useful.

Lettuce does not like overheating and needs partial shading, but only partial, therefore, the close proximity of plants with dense foliage, such as carrots, beets, is unfavorable for lettuce.

Lettuce bushes can be placed in different places in the garden, where it will grow under the cover of taller plants. The neighborhood of chrysanthemums is especially favorable for him.

Table beet. Hubmann, who has tested the compatibility of red beets with other vegetables for many years, claims that five types of vegetables - potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, beets and spinach - stimulate each other.

According to his observations, beets also have a very good effect on cabbage of all kinds, lettuce, radish and radish, the neighborhood of onions, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce is especially favorable for beets, in addition, it tolerates joint plantings with garlic, cucumbers, strawberries, celery root .

Regarding the incompatibility of beets with other crops, there is no consensus. Some gardeners claim that it does not grow well in the neighborhood of chives, corn and potatoes. Chard, which belongs to the same botanical family as the beet, is also subject to controversy.

There are suggestions that beet root secretions have antibiotic properties and therefore its replanting to some crops, in particular, to carrots, can have a healing effect on them.

But, at the same time, one should not forget about observing a sufficient distance between plants, since the powerful beet foliage obscures neighboring crops.

Celery. At the celery and white cabbage mutual assistance relations were noted: cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, and celery drives white butterflies away from cabbage. Celery goes well with tomatoes, spinach, cucumbers, lettuce, beets.

Chives and bush beans are especially beneficial to it, it is not recommended to plant celery next to corn, potatoes, parsley, carrots.

Tomatoes. Tomatoes are considered by some to be "selfish" plants that like to grow on their own, separate from other crops. But the experience of German and Swiss gardeners says that tomatoes tolerate the neighborhood of other vegetables well and are quite suitable for mixed plantings.

They go well with celery, endive, radish, radish, corn, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, carrots, beets. A mutually beneficial effect was noted with chives, spinach, bush beans, parsley, which is often planted as a border for tomato beds.

Tomatoes have a hostile relationship with kohlrabi, fennel, and dill. As for the relationship of tomatoes with potatoes and cucumbers, opinions differ here, perhaps it depends on the method of planting.

Favorable for tomatoes is the neighborhood of the following herbs that improve their taste and condition: basil, lemon balm, borage, chives, marigolds, mint, sage, savory. Dioecious nettle, growing next to tomatoes, improves the quality of tomato juice and extends the shelf life of fruits.

Pumpkin. Wells with pumpkin are advised to be placed between corn plants. Corn shade the pumpkin in hot weather and saves it from overheating.

Beans. Bush beans are the friendliest vegetable of the legume family. Relationships of mutual assistance and mutual stimulation were noted for beans and radishes, all types of cabbage, corn, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, and spinach.

With root secretions rich in nitrogen, beans help other types of vegetables growing next to them. In addition, it is compatible with chard, lettuce, strawberries, leeks. Beans do not tolerate the neighborhood of onions, garlic, fennel, peas.

Garlic. Apparently, in Western Europe it is not very popular, so it is rarely used in mixed plantings. It is known that garlic goes well with tomatoes, beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries and has a bad effect on beans, peas, cabbage.

Spinach. Spinach is a favorite member of the vegetable community in Germany and Switzerland. He is credited with many positive qualities, including cold resistance, short ripening period, compact shape.

All this makes it a very convenient crop for consecutive and combined plantings. In addition, spinach roots have a beneficial effect on soil properties, and saponin, which is part of its root secretions, stimulates the absorption of nutrients by the roots of vegetables growing next to it.

Relations of mutual favorable influence are noted for spinach and potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and beets. The most common combinations are spinach with kohlrabi, radish, lettuce. It also goes well with carrots, onions, parsley, watercress, celery, cabbage, strawberries.

Spinach has no hostile relationship with any plant species.

All of the above advice regarding methods of growing vegetables should be taken as recommendations, and not as absolutely rigid rules. Each gardener should test them on his site with the varieties available to him in relation to local conditions.

The compatibility of plants with each other is probably the most topical issue om gardeners, because our harvest will depend on the proximity of plants to each other.

Now there is such a science as allelopathy. It's funny, but in Greek, this word means joint suffering. Those. in fact, it is the science of how plants can mutually influence each other - oppressing some and helping others. It turns out that in nature, plants behave in the same way as people.

Below I give an excerpt from the book of B.V. Bublik - a well-known agronomist in Russia on organic farming - "Melange Garden"

Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion for potatoes, oat root. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Contribute to the growth of watermelons sow thistle and gauze.

Eggplant. Helps eggplant grow healthy amaranth (of course, in small quantities). The beans keep the Colorado potato beetle away. The space between the eggplants (rather extensive) can be successfully used for a salad. It is useful to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against flea (in a pinch, infusions).

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is one of the types of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden in the winter, and peas can be planted in the spring to the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers with okra.

Peas. Peas are a great company for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all sorts of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent root rot in peas. Lettuce, spinach and even eggplant grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can mutually pollinate, and both will become bitter. Help melons grow radishes and gauze.

Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar. Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbage by celery, thyme, hyssop, wormwood. The neighborhood of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), various types of onions (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans are useful for cabbage. Compatible cabbage with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explainable only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): such a tight, tasty and clean cabbage, as planted between the rows of potatoes after hilling, simply did not have to be seen. "Not to your liking" cabbage strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower "does not like" the neighborhood of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants that shade it.

Potato. Many plants can make a useful company for potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, amaranth. But the potato has an affectionate "companion" - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, we single out among the possible neighbors those who can help the potato in this trouble. Well protects potatoes from the Colorado horseradish beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters deep and wide, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would save the garden from clogging with horseradish. Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (they tend to expand their territory) and cannot be planted along with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. An infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetakton, which is detrimental to the larvae. Delphinium infusion has the same property. Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then, as it were, forgotten about them. Repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly) coriander, nasturtium, flax. They can be sown at random, but it is still better on the south side of the row: they will cover the soil near the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant for the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can be confusing. In the fight against the beetle, you can use trap plants. If there is extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants on potatoes - rarely, bushes after 20. Beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (Belladonna) are even more graceful in this role. Female beetles lay their eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous for them, and they are unable to change the plant, and they don’t want to. True, the creation of these traps is a rather troublesome task: to prepare seeds, in right time and sow them in the right place (or even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-sowing. If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmouse, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, orioles can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle. Effective in the fight against the beetle, an infusion of walnut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the yuglon poison contained in them is very resistant, unlike the nepetacton or the curare-like delphinium poison. Of course, if we “live alone”, then you can water the garden with juglone. But then it's even "better" to sprinkle with DDT.
Another serious misfortune for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes in the fight against late blight is garlic. Not only by itself, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for the infusion. Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. Weaken the ability of potatoes to resist the disease growing in the neighborhood of raspberries and, of course, tomatoes. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini, and cucumbers can all be home to late blight, although they don't suffer from it themselves.
Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, bok choy, onion. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad effect on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and that (in retaliation, or what?) Prevents the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen by apple trees. Bad in the neighborhood with turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Onion. Luka is good in company with different type cabbages. He also likes onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial bows (batun, chayvis) are good in circles near roses. The neighborhood of carrots and potatoes is especially useful for onions. Brilliant company - borage, thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladios. Bow drillers don't like it.

Carrot. All kinds of onions, garlic, oat root are good with carrots, dill and anise are bad. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects. It is not necessary to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will be bitter.
Oat root. The oat root repels the onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repelling the onion fly) and sown in rows interspersed with onions.

cucumbers. Cucumbers are very good together with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive away ants. The neighborhood of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, sunflowers favorably affects cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around the cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and bloom for itself, let harmful insects (cucumber beetle, for example) scare away, useful insects attract. Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, gauze, sow thistle, tansy. The neighborhood of tall plants that give a light shade is useful for cucumbers. Shiritsa sacrificially entices the caterpillars that gnaw the roots.

Parsnip. Infusion of parsnip leaves and roots - excellent tool for spraying against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Parsnip is frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Flowering (in the second year) parsnips are attractive to beneficial insects. He is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help him grow.

Pepper. Pepper is good with basil - they render mutual services to each other. Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of pepper from the wind, and the fruits from the sun. Aphids from pepper can be repelled by onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, marigolds. You can use nasturtium as a trap. It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, one must keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. He attacks tomatoes rarely, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, for example, you need to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from drying potato tops to tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and during the drying of the potato tops, a steady wind from the tomatoes blew on the potato beds. Late blight is worse. When are created ideal conditions for late blight epiphytosis - it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved by prevention, for example, by blowing through the “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, etc.). Tomatoes are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular, with space. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels the horned worm. Stinging and deaf nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). In small quantities, amaranth is useful. Tomato leaves contain solanine, and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot. Root secretions of tomatoes are harmful to apricots. Do not plant corn and tomatoes next to each other.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes, and any cabbage except cauliflower. She is not harmed by some shading, which, for example, Brussels sprouts can give. Unpleasant beets as neighbors curly beans and mustard. Sprinkling beets with infusions of mint or catnip, you can rid it of a flea. The flea, however, brings beets only "cosmetic" damage. Worse with aphids. If aphid colonies have appeared on the beets, they can cause noticeable damage to it. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but more effective is a decoction of rhubarb leaves or garlic infusion. Especially carefully it is necessary to look after the beets growing in the neighborhood with Brussels sprouts, adored by aphids more than all vegetables. By the way, some birds like aphids - sparrows, titmouse, finches, nuthatch.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, bush beans. In the roots of celery love to gather earthworms: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a semblance of a house for the worms. Celery loves shade. In it, it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, in particular wheat. Corn benefits greatly from the company of soy. Soy repels corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. The radish planted around the hole helps the pumpkin fight pests. Good in this role and nasturtium. Contribute to better growth of gauze, quinoa, sow thistle (of course, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Useful beans in strawberries. She helps corn, pumpkin. The radish company is mutually beneficial. Carrots help beans grow. A wonderful pair is formed by beans and savory. Both have an improved taste, pests do not find their way to them. Curly beans are bad with beets, kohlrabi, sunflowers. All onions and gladioli oppress the beans.

Garlic. Unusually good garlic in a companion garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles. Garlic makes an excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, beans from some fungal diseases. Mistresses have long been putting garlic cloves in grain, flour, and cereals. It is good to surround fruit trees with garlic, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows magnificently in the company of many plants (even with a very allelopathic vetch!). An irreplaceable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Spices
Here we will talk about herbs that are good both on the table and in the garden. They add taste and aroma to food, plants - energy and resistance to pests and diseases, soil - fertility, vegetables - harvest, garden - beauty.

Basil. If we talk about spices in our gardens and start not with basil, God will not forgive. What other herb is so beautiful - what does it taste, what does it smell, what does it look like?
And yet, basil is interesting not only from a culinary and aesthetic point of view. It also carries some "social" burdens. Drives away the horned worm from tomatoes and corn. Keeps ants away. A crushed basil leaf is the best (and most enjoyable) mosquito repellant. Basil grows very well with sweet pepper, poorly with rue. Adds energy to neighboring plants. Repels aphids and ticks from them. Embarrassing Colorado potato beetle. Disperses flies in the kitchen.

Oregano and marjoram. Oregano (mother) and its cultural analogue marjoram are good both in the kitchen and in the garden. They have a persistent pungent smell, reminiscent of the smell of thyme. All plants near oregano and marjoram are good: both growth and taste improve. The neighborhood with them is especially useful for cabbage: they drive away the cabbage butterfly.

snakehead. The snakehead (Turkish mint) owes its name to the seeds - black, flattened, with two white specks. It, like basil, attracts and shelters beneficial insects, protects plants from pests. As for his behavior in companies, we can say that observations of the snakehead for ten years have not yet given reason to believe that someone is ill with him.
Due to the "ankles" snakehead can give support and favorable shade to cucumbers.

Hyssop. Not everyone likes the camphor smell of hyssop, so it may seem out of place in salads. But for the treatment of various respiratory diseases - chronic cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma- it is irreplaceable (used in the form of infusion). For this alone, you can find a place for him. It is to find it, because hyssop, unfortunately, is expansive and over time it can become larger than we would like. Hyssop attracts bees and repels many pests. Increases grape yield. It is bad for radishes and radishes near hyssop.

Coriander. Coriander has a lot of virtues. It is very useful for anise: it improves seed germination, improves growth, increases the size of umbrellas. Promotes the growth of cumin rosettes (in the first year). Well repels aphids from the plants she adores. It blooms luxuriously and attracts a lot of beneficial insects.
Coriander is a good neighbor for almost all plants. He only oppresses

fennel. And rightly so this "bully", from which it is bad, consider, to the whole garden.
And finally, the most important advantage of coriander (from a social point of view): it can be sown anywhere (and at any time). And in the garden with wintering coriander, you can plant and sow any crops directly on the "stubble", without digging: the soil is so carefully "plowed" by its roots.

Mint. Mint is a favorite of the convivial garden. Its strong, pungent odor repels pests. In the neighborhood with it, the growth and taste of cabbage and tomatoes improves. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Lamb meat, egg, pea, potato dish mint attached unique aroma. One trouble with mint is a tendency to unrestrained expansion of the occupied area. So it is necessary to choose a place for her with some caution. It is more difficult to “string” mint in the garden than to start it on the window: dig up the rhizomes in a deep enough autumn, put them in a box, cover them with soil by 3-4 cm, carefully water and feast on them all winter.
Mint is suitable for fungicidal solutions.

Borage. Borage (borage) stimulates the growth of many plants, especially strawberries. Just keep in mind that the borage bush grows over time and must be cut off or removed altogether if it begins to strongly obscure other plants. Increases in its presence the resistance of plants to diseases. Borage is also known as an indispensable tool in the fight against cabbage caterpillars.

Parsley. The role of parsley in an intensive vegetable garden is significant. The neighborhood of parsley gives health to tomatoes and improves their taste. Parsley rosettes cover the soil under tall plants well and enliven the flower landscape. It is useful to “ring” whimsical roses with parsley.
Blooming second-year parsley provides shelter and food for a host of beneficial insects. You can keep the "extra" flowering parsley bushes in the garden, but, in order to avoid self-seeding, send them to the compost heap when the seeds begin to ripen. Usually the parsley that gave the seeds dries out.
From carrot flies, which can bother parsley, as well as slugs, you can protect yourself with leeks. A wonderful, technologically compatible company. In summer, leeks cover the parsley from the sun. Both cultures (at least partially) remain to winter in the ground. They should be covered with light mulch, opened early in the spring and cut early greens from both.
The joint planting of parsley and leek is organized as follows. As soon as work in the garden becomes possible, parsley is sown in ribbons 5-6 cm wide with row spacing of 30 cm. And after a couple of weeks, 10-week seedlings of leeks are planted in the aisles - and the bed is formed. Until the parsley sprouts, you need to keep the bed clean, let the soil warm up, and then mulch and no longer disturb the chopper until next spring. You may need to pull out weeds that have broken through the mulch from time to time.
Parsley is chock-full of vitamin E. It's hard to name a dish that it could spoil. And among the Caucasians, famous for their longevity and "agility", a table without fragrant parsley sprigs is simply unthinkable.

Watercress. This herb is an even more obligatory spice on the Caucasian table than parsley. The ease of growing watercress is beyond anything imaginable. It is enough to scatter the seeds, and you may not have time to sprinkle them - they sprout so quickly. But seriously, it takes him two or three days to germinate.
As a culture for companies, watercress does not deserve good words. It oppresses (and this is not folklore, but scientific fact!) seedlings of many cultures, even a wiki that knows how to hit back. It is bad in the neighborhood with him and the plants that have already appeared. So it is necessary to sow watercress separately

Ruta. Rue is at odds with basil. And roses and raspberries are a good protector from pests. The only trouble with rue is that its leaves can burn the skin when it is in bloom. If trouble happens, you need to wash your hands with soap and grease with vegetable oil.
Ruta grows well with almost all flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. At the compost heap and around the household yard helps to get rid of flies.
Rue has an unusual, but very useful property: if your beloved cat likes to scratch your favorite furniture, then you need to rub the places accessible to the cat on the furniture with rue leaves. And the furniture will be intact, and the cat "will not work."

Dill. About dill, right, everyone knows everything. But there is one misconception, which, when discussing the sociable properties of plants, it must be said. Usually dill grows anywhere, self-seeding. Some gardeners do not even sow it at all, but manage with shoots of carrion, carefully bypassing them when weeding. This is what you shouldn't do. Many plants (especially potatoes, carrots, tomatoes) do not like the neighborhood of dill. It significantly inhibits their growth, reduces the yield. Reduces significantly, clearly. It is strange that many gardeners do not see this.
Dill also has friends. In the neighborhood with him, cabbage grows better and tastier. Not bad for onions, lettuce, cucumbers. Cucumbers are especially useful shade from dill. Dill umbrellas are very tempting for beneficial insects.

Fennel. Folklore is unknown to plants - friends of fennel. But this does not mean that he has no place in the garden. It attracts and harbors so many useful insects that it can compete with such "temptors" as tansy, angelica (angelica), goldenrod. It can only yield to katran, but katran blooms for only two weeks, and fennel for several months. It blooms even after the first frosts, when the fennel's brother, dill, has already drooped under the onslaught of cold. This refers to the dill sown for the fall, and not the dill of the spring "call" - this has long since gone cold.
It is necessary to sow fennel in the garden, it is very necessary, only a place for it - a ruffy one - should be chosen isolated, without neighbors.

Sage. Sage is indispensable near cabbage - cabbage gives taste and juiciness, but pests do not like it. Sage with carrots is good (the carrot fly cannot stand it). But sage is contraindicated for cucumbers.

Thyme. Thyme grows not only in the garden. It also spreads in the wild, on sunny slopes. It is better to propagate it not by seeds, but by dividing the rhizomes.
Young leaves and shoots are used like any other edible herb. From dried thyme obtained great tea. Fragrant bath with a decoction of thyme. You can grow thyme in any corner of the garden. It is a weak eater, grows slowly and does not compete with anyone for light or nutrients. Improves the taste of vegetables, repels pests, attracts bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects. An excellent companion for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.
Some crops can be sprayed with thyme decoction: it masks the “native” smell. Information about cabbage is contradictory: the neighborhood with thyme is useful for cabbage itself, but the smell of thyme does not frighten its pests. Good "carpet" of thyme under roses, anise, corn.

Chaivis. Also called spring onion, chives, chives, this fragrant onion is good because it delivers a tender, non-roughening feather from snow to snow. Decorates salads and different dishes. The taste of his feather is softer than the feather of a turnip.
Chaivis is good in companies with carrots, tomatoes, roses, grapes. A circle of chaivis around an apple tree will protect it from scab, and around a rose - from black spot. But, like garlic (and all onions in general), it is a poor companion for peas and beans. Chaivis infusion can prevent powdery mildew on cucumbers and gooseberries.
You can easily start chaivis on the windowsill for forcing fresh herbs in winter: with the onset of cold weather, dig right amount bundles, cut them 4-5 cm from the beginning of the roots, hold for 3-4 weeks in the cellar, simulating hibernation, then separate the bundles, easily trim the roots, hold them in hot water and put in a box. It is necessary to collect greens by cutting the whole plants at a level of 4-5 cm above the ground. And in no case do not pinch the feathers - the remaining parts will turn yellow, and the plant will hurt.

Technological crops
Technological here are called crops, often called green manure. It so happened that plowed green fertilizers were always called green manure. And the "fertilizing" function of these crops is far from the most important. More important functions are the protection of the soil during the off-season from rain and wind, the improvement of soil structure, the growth of biomass for compost and mulch ... In the first place is, of course, loosening the soil.

Vika. If suddenly there was no buckwheat in the world, then Vika would not have to ask “My light, mirror, tell me ...” - she would undoubtedly be the best technological culture.
The main and invaluable advantage of the wiki is the creation of amazing soil. It not only loosens and adds organic matter to the soil. By fixing free nitrogen, it enriches the soil with nitrogen compounds available to plants. There is a lot of phosphorus in the tissues of the wiki.
When the vetch blooms, all kinds of pollinating insects swarm around it. It provides shelter for ground beetles (ground beetles) and spiders. It is not necessary, of course, to endure a careful attitude towards the ground beetle to a similar to her kravchik, capable of cutting more than one strawberry bush “under Kotovsky”. Kravchik is noticeably lobaste than the ground beetle and has a shearing apparatus resembling the "claws" of a snowplow. Fortunately, the fight against the kravchik is not difficult: it is enough early in the morning or late in the evening to pour boiling water over its mink (with a fresh ejection of soil).
Beds sown with winter vetch can be planted in spring under heat-loving crops. Keeping in mind the allelopathic nature of the wiki (including the “postmortem one”), it must be planted in the soil 3-4 weeks before planting and allowed to “ferment”. The soil will become loose, structural, rich in nutrients. It should only be taken into account that, while ripening, the vetch “shoots” the seeds for many meters around, and then they sprout for several years.
A vetch prone to lodging needs some kind of "nanny" for whose hem the vetch could hold on. Usually, for this, it is sown with oats (spring) or rye (autumn). As already mentioned, vetch is allelopathic, but don’t put your finger in your mouth with oats and rye either. Of course, the vetch would grow better without these neighbors, but then it would die and rot. However, if the winter vetch is embedded in the soil in the spring, then there is no need for support.
There was a case when barley was sown in the spring to the winter vetch, which was left without support (there was no rye at hand). Vika allowed him to climb, catch up with her (she grows slowly), and then crushed her. To death. She didn’t take away the light - the barley was already higher, she didn’t starve - the “food” in the soil would be enough for both of them, but simply poisoned with root secretions. At that time I had heard a lot about allelopathy, but I did not think that it was so serious. Now I understand that the cultures that support vetch are sown with it at the same time and manage to gain the necessary strength to resist it. But young barley plants did not cope with vetch.
There was another confusion. Once I gave way to peppers a bed with vetch already in the days of planting peppers, losing sight of the “ruffiness” of vetch. The vetch embedded in the soil did not have time to clear itself, and the peppers stood in vain until the fall - they did not even grow decent tops.
It is a pity that such a valuable plant is so aggressive. If we take into account that vetch, cut in bloom, dies, then how many interesting companies could be created with it. But, in the end, Vika does not eat her bread for nothing. No plant can compare with her in creating and protecting the soil during the long off-season.

Buckwheat. It's a shame: such unusual plant there is also a serious drawback - buckwheat is incredibly thermophilic. Even +4 (plus!) degrees is enough for her to turn sour if not to droop. This greatly hinders the creation of companies with buckwheat (also, however, allelopathic). Just wait out the possible spring frosts (and this is right up to June), as September is already on the nose. But still…
Buckwheat can be sown in any clearing formed in the summer. It suppresses weeds well, enriches the soil with organic material, transfers phosphorus from forms inaccessible to other plants into accessible ones, lures bees, hoverflies and wasps rich in nectar from all around.
Excessive thermophilicity of buckwheat is fully compensated by its "agility". She manages to reach the required size and bloom well, even when sown after potatoes. And after garlic, peas, lettuce - give ripened seeds. This is very important, because buckwheat seeds cannot be obtained without the hassle.
Buckwheat is a good neighbor for cabbage. The buckwheat carpet around the cabbage camouflages it, confusing butterflies, scoops and moths, and the cabbage becomes tastier and cleaner.

oats. A harmless-looking culture. But if you sow oats in the former raspberry forest, you can get rid of the inevitable raspberry growth.
Oats are very good as a technological crop. Sown at the end of summer, it will have time to build up a fairly rich biomass, loosen the soil and cover it for the winter. Until spring, the remains of oats will be washed out, get rid of harmful secretions, and the bed, enriched and loosened, will be ready.
accept any culture without digging.
An interesting incident took place. A neighbor, inclined to look at the land, once, after harvesting potatoes, sowed oats for grazing geese. And in the fall, pulling out a bunch of oats, she was amazed: “Is this my land?” So lumpy, beautiful, brownish, stuffed with earthworms, unrecognizable was the soil in a lump.
Oats are good as a "pioneer". If it is sown first on virgin lands or fallows, then the soil will be cleared of caterpillars of the May beetle, etc.

Wheat. Wheat is allelopathic, but not as prominent as rye. She can’t do anything with poppy seeds, bindweed, and bodyak that are harmful to her (rye would cope with them “on her left”). Chamomile helps wheat grow (in very small quantities). Close-growing tulips and sorghum are harmful.
Wheat straw is often used as mulch. Clean, bright, it is incomparable on strawberries.
By the way, the English name for strawberries is strawberry - it's just "straw berry". This is how strawberries and straw “grown together”!
It is necessary, just in case, to avoid embedding straw (even former mulch) into the soil. It’s better to let it rot in a heap for a year, the harmful secretions will stop - then please. It has been established, for example, that if lettuce roots come into contact with straw that rots in the soil, the plant dries out. Such straw reduces seed germination (and yield) of corn by about half.

Rye. Here is another culture ready to "talk to the mirror". But it is not without a defect: it has a high allelopathic activity. In front of my eyes, she literally wiped off the face of the earth shoots of beets, lettuce, spinach, oat root, carrots. I used to be surprised at the cleanliness of the rye fields. And it was necessary, it turns out, to be surprised at the weed that survived in this field.
However, recently my friends struck me with an unusual (and unexpected) picture. As is customary in Ukraine, their potato plot was framed by strips of beets. After harvesting the potatoes, they sowed the plot with rye. By the end of autumn, she managed to wave almost to her knees - an emerald, and nothing more. But - almost a meter wide strips of rye near the beets looked like they were watered with roundup - undersized, withered. Mature beetroot did to rye what spring-grown rye did to young beetroot. Truly "mutual suffering"!
Rye has one valuable (if not priceless) quality: it kills the unattainable root nematode. It is enough to sow rye in the fall and plant it in the soil in the spring - the nematode will disappear.
If rye is left for grain, then it is very useful to have a small amount of chamomile in this bed - the ear will be fuller.
A small amount of rye will save strawberries from black rot, and onions from some fungal diseases. Rye flour helps to fight cabbage pests: powdering cabbage with flour dehydrates the caterpillars.
Finally, we must recall the main, integumentary function of rye. Together with and without vetch, it covers and binds the soil in the difficult autumn-winter period. If there is no need for seeds or grains of rye, in the spring you can plant it in the soil or remove it (along with the roots, just in case) into the compost heap. In the heap, this nitrogen supplement is more appropriate than in the soil (due to the “post-mortem” allelopathy).
With the help of rye, you can clear a plot littered with wheatgrass. It is enough to grow rye on it for two seasons in a row.

Chumiza. Chumiza (Italian millet) is my random find. The first time it was sown out of pure curiosity and - came to the court. It penetrates the entire arable layer with powerful root "balls". In one year, the soil becomes unrecognizable - granular, richly fertilized with roots.
An unusually productive crop. Ears can reach the size of a “rocking chair” of cattail (ocheret). Grain is an excellent feed for chickens. It is known that hens teach chickens to different food gradually - on earthworms, for example, "pay attention" only in the second week. So, they include chumizu in the diet of chickens from the first day.
The most valuable quality of chumiza, however, is its extraordinary ability to clear litter. In the neighborhood with her, only her closest relative, mice, survives. All other weeds are suppressed - even bindweed, which fears neither God nor the devil.
Chumiza has one defect - it is thermophilic. She has to give the garden for the whole summer. However, not in vain. Builds soil, kills weeds, provides straw for mulch and millet for chickens - quite a few...

Flowers

Only a few, the most popular flowers are considered here.

Marigold. Marigolds (tagetes) are just like that: all the fuss around them is to throw the seeds at the right time and in the right place, and then throw them into the compost heap in time or plant them in the soil. But in companies they are not so simple.
On the one hand, marigolds are an excellent means of combating root nematodes. Their roots attract the nematode, but it cannot reproduce in their environment. Dead end! Moreover, not only the roots are effective, but also the plants themselves embedded in the soil. Marigolds protect beans, cabbage, tomatoes, roses from pests. Do not like the Colorado potato beetle, aphids.
On the other hand, they are quite allelopathic, in particular, they inhibit the growth of beans and cabbage, which are protected from pests. Just like in the well-known rhyme "I will not let anyone offend my sister Lida ...".

Calendula. Calendula is a very widespread flower in our country. And he deserves it. It blooms profusely (if cut regularly) and for a long time, until severe frosts, it blooms, amusing the eyes for both us and beneficial insects.
Unfortunately, calendula is vulnerable to aphids. Well, let it serve as a trap, and the branches affected by aphids - a nitrogenous additive for the compost heap.
Calendula is easily sown, in addition to the will of the gardener. She should not be allowed this: she is a little allelopathic. Inhibits, for example, corn, watermelons, melons. In general, calendula is useful in some companies, because its pungent smell makes it difficult for pests to find their "breadwinners". It gives abundant biomass.

Space(kosmeya). You want to find something good in every plant, but you don’t even need to look in space. Just a perfect plant. Beautiful, graceful, harmless, with abundant but sparse, feathery foliage and pretty, unpretentious flowers. Cosmos is prone to self-seeding - and thank God. Let him grow where he pleases. It is attractive to bees and other beneficial insects that find nectar in flowers and shelter in branches.
Fragile branches can break under their own weight - also good: you can stick a branch into moist soil and a new plant will grow in a week.
Cosmos can be sown at any time in any suitable place - for living mulch, for shade-hungry plants, for a bouquet. This is also such a flower that the more you cut, the more it grows. It is useful to pinch a young seedling - then the cosmos branches more strongly.
It sounds paradoxical, but - clog the garden with space, and it will become more alive in every sense of this capacious word.

Linen. Linen, of course, is a technical culture, but in the garden, flax is flowers, and therefore it is described here.
Flax was mentioned when listing plants that help potatoes in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. The beetle does not like the tannin secreted by the leaves and the smell linseed oil in mature seeds. Flax is also good in company with carrots.
However, you should not get carried away with flax. Embarrassing the Colorado potato beetle is a sacred thing, but it is not necessary to sow flax anywhere - it is allelopathic.
There is decorative linen, red-leafed. He has larger flowers, he blooms until the frost, but there is no information that characterizes his behavior in companies.

Nasturtium. Aphids love nasturtium. Direct hint: you need to sow nasturtium next to aphid-damaged crops, lure aphids into this trap, and then remove the lashes infected with aphids into a compost heap.
If you need nasturtium on its own, you can spray it with soapy water.
But other pests, such as the cabbage whitefly, do not like the smell of nasturtium. Nasturtium also protects beans, cucumbers, pumpkins. Many beneficial insects hunt for the nectar of nasturtium flowers.

Sunflower. The sunflower is described here for the same reason as flax. In the garden, it is not an industrial crop, it is grown mainly for fun.
So here's to the fun. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, and it is not necessary to litter it in the garden. However, the sunflower itself is not a gift to neighbors.

Beans, pumpkins, cucumbers, corn, soybeans - these are all the crops that are good in the company of a sunflower. It is especially bad for tomatoes and potatoes. Moreover, it oppresses neighbors not only because it is allelopathic. It creates a thick shadow. In addition, it is reputed to be a glutton even among plants - strong eaters and literally eats up neighbors.
And, nevertheless, it is necessary to plant a sunflower in the garden, and not only for the sake of tradition. Attractiveness to bees, it can surpass even buckwheat. But the place for it must be chosen carefully enough, keeping in mind both the allelopathic nature and the gluttony of the sunflower. And to rarefy the shadow cast by him - break off the lower 6-7 leaves.

Zinnias. Zinnias are just as easy to grow as marigolds, unless they need to be cut more often - for the benefit of them and for the bouquet. The bush, with regular cutting, branches strongly and blooms powerfully. Cut flowers stay fresh for a long time.
Zinnias attract all sorts of beneficial insects. Their cheerful coloring is also cute for the gardener.
You can sow zinnias anywhere and for the sake of beauty, and for the "convocation" of beneficial insects, and for shading plants that need protection from the sun. They are completely harmless, not allelopathic. They bloom quite quickly, they have time to give flowers, even if they are sown after harvesting potatoes.
By the way, zinnias make an excellent cover crop. The plant is strong, does not shrink from frost, like buckwheat and even oats, stands with leaves all winter and holds snow well in winter and melt water spring.

Chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums require some fiddling. And they cannot be grown on vegetable beds: the rain washes away poisonous compounds from their leaves that inhibit the sprouts and growth of other plants. Moreover, they are even "disgusting to themselves": they do not grow well in the place where they grew before.

The article is taken from the site: http://derevnyaonline.ru/community/264/3052, based on the book by B.V. Bagel "Melange garden" by elsa27

Not everyone manages to grow a good crop of cabbage on the site, since a large number of pests are susceptible to it. Many, once disappointed, no longer risk planting this crop. However, if you know what is best to plant next to the cabbage, you can not only naturally protect it from pests, but also improve soil composition.

The mechanism of work of phytoncides plants

If you have to defend cabbage from flying insects twice a summer - during egg laying periods (usually late May and early August), then it is necessary to protect the plant from bedbugs, root secretive proboscis, fleas, beetles and slugs during the entire growing season. The most effective is the simultaneous planting of spicy herbs and flowering volatile plants that exude biologically active substances.

Creating natural protection against pests will require some effort only at the initial stage, but later you can get a number of nice bonuses:

• improving the taste of cabbage;
• decoration of the site throughout the season;
• the opportunity to stock up for the winter with their own spices and medicinal natural raw materials.

Useful planting next to cabbage beds will protect it regardless of weather conditions.

Flowers - protection from insects and improvement of the soil

The worst enemies of cabbage are the white butterfly and the mining moth. Their larvae are capable of causing irreparable damage in a short time. An effective natural repeller from whitefish and similar pests are marigolds (tagetes) - ubiquitous bright flowers with a specific smell. If you plant them along the contour of the garden, as well as directly next to the cabbage, then for butterflies and moths, the attractiveness of this place will be lost. Marigolds exude phytoncides both from inflorescences and from roots, repelling aphids, whiteflies, bears, moths, protecting against some fungi, as well as nematodes.

A number of other colors have the same properties.

• A calendula that can be planted once, and in subsequent years the plant is already able to reproduce by self-sowing.
• Tansy. The bush can grow in one place for several years. It should not be planted directly on a bed with cabbage, since tansy has a depressing effect on its growth.
• Chamomile.

Nasturtium is also a phytoncide. But these flowers actively attract aphids, which ants often transfer to neighboring plants. Many advise planting nasturtium around cabbage as an "interceptor" for whites and moths, but there is no guarantee that pests will be limited to it.

Of all the flowers suitable for protecting cabbages and other crops, marigolds are still the most popular.

For protection to be effective, care should be taken in advance. By the time the cabbage is planted, the flowers should already bloom and exude a smell. Tagetes sprouts literally 3-4 days after sowing, grows under favorable conditions quickly, unpretentious. In a month and a half, you can grow decent bushes with buds that need to be planted in the aisles and along the contour of the ridge.

Useful neighborhood: spicy herbs and vegetables

Some vegetables and herbs will not only help to cope with cabbage pests, but also form a mutually beneficial alliance with it.

It will save not only from the scoop, but also from the mining moth, perennial spicy tarragon grass. If a large bush grows next to a garden bed, then the butterflies become disoriented and instinctively fly around it. It is enough to plant tarragon once for several years, but it is prone to overgrowth, so it is better to immediately protect the space around it with dug-in border tape.

Sage and savory also effectively repel whitefly, whitefly, and earthen flea butterflies. And mint also dares ants who love to spread aphids from the beds.

It is useful to plant bushes of tomatoes around the beds with cabbage. These odorous plants create a kind of protective halo around themselves, through which cruciferous pests do not pass. This property of tomatoes was discovered a long time ago and is actively used by many summer residents: after pinching, tomato branches are laid out in the aisles of cabbage, radish, radish. However, soon after withering, they lose their abilities, so it is easier to plant several bushes side by side. Moreover, even if the weather does not allow the crop to ripen, then the tomatoes will perform their protective function properly.

Not all varieties of cabbage grow well next to tomatoes, so they can be planted along the contour, interspersed with marigolds according to the approximate “1 through 5” scheme.

Cabbage gets along well next to all types leaf lettuce, which not only do not compete with it for nutrients, but also stimulate root formation, protect against earthen flea.

Slugs also like to feast on cabbage, especially young leaves. However, these creatures are very gentle and prefer to stay away from traumatic surfaces. This allows plants to be protected by creating a mechanical barrier. If you plant borage grass (borage) with hard, fleecy leaves along the contour of the bed, then slugs and snails will not encroach on cabbage. They do not like the smell of garlic, sage, chicory, onion and rosemary. If you plant these plants along the borders of the cabbage beds, you can protect the seedlings from damage.

Bad "neighbors"

Sometimes, without knowing it, gardeners attract pests by placing unwanted plants next to the cabbage. One of these is celery. This grass repels earth flies, but at the same time actively lures the cabbage butterfly.

Plants such as:

• carrot;
• caraway;
• parsnip;
• turnip;
• radish.

The above cultures attract white butterflies, as well as mining moths, whose caterpillars then actively eat cabbage.

Each plant synthesizes its own substances, which saturate not only the air, but also the soil around it, therefore, when planting together different cultures the nuances of such a neighborhood should be taken into account. Cabbage grows poorly next to levkoy, parsley, bush beans, garden strawberries.

It is also important to take into account the different moisture requirements. For example, spinach should not be planted nearby, as it requires significantly more water than cabbage. As a result, a root fungus will develop, inhibition of the formation of heads will begin.

Each plant has its own set of nutrients. Cabbage needs a lot of nitrogen, and tomatoes, onions, and celery also love it. But radishes, nasturtiums and greens of this element do not need much, so you can plant them along the contour of the beds.

White cabbage and cauliflower do not get along side by side, the yield of both types decreases. Everyone needs their own bed, preferably at least a meter away. Dislikes cauliflower and broccoli. Brussels is more tolerant, but tomatoes should not grow near it.

Fennel is an extremely aggressive plant, so it should not be planted with cabbage or other vegetables.

Joint plantings (mixed beds), subject to proper selection of crops, help gardeners rationally use the usable area, while improving yields.

Cabbage usually grows well, without requiring special conditions and careful care. Her main enemy- pests. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to regularly process plantings, collect caterpillars and beetles, so you can use the help of nature - plant near the garden and in the aisles of permanent responsible "watchmen" - volatile plants. Although they do not give an absolute guarantee of getting rid of insect enemies, their contribution is very significant.

What and with whom to plant

For every gardener and gardener, the question of which plants should be planted nearby remains relevant. The author of the book Melange Garden, Russian agronomist B. V. Bublik and American farmer D. Jevans, in the book How to Grow More Vegetables..., described in detail the interaction of various cultivated plants that are most often grown in Central Russia. Of course, to get good harvest it is necessary not only to choose the right plants for adjacent beds, but also to provide them with good care. Then all crops will successfully bear fruit and the harvest will be guaranteed.

➣ Ash, wormwood and wheatgrass are distinguished by high production of allelopathic substances. Where these plants appear, all the rest immediately stop growing, especially cultivated ones. Do not leave the listed weeds between the beds or around the perimeter of the garden.

Scientific experiments with labeled atoms have shown that substances secreted by mustard roots enhance the growth of crops such as peas. Legumes, in turn, release a large amount of nitrogenous substances into the soil, which is not acceptable for all plants. However, bush beans grow well next to legumes.

Peas are also a good neighbor for many vegetable crops(tomatoes, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, turnips, beans) and herbs (mustard). Peas are planted between the rows of these crops. Next to this representative of the legume family, you can successfully grow lettuce, eggplant, spinach, and celery. If cabbage or other cruciferous vegetables are planted next to peas, then its roots will be protected from decay. Which family the most common cultivated crops in Central Russia belong to can be found in the table.

Beans grow well next to cucumbers. They can be planted around cucumber beds. Also, this culture is favorably combined with potatoes, sweet corn, mustard, radish, radish, spinach. Beans are recommended to be planted between these plants. Good neighbors for beans are oregano, borage, yarrow and rosemary.

Table. Distribution of popular garden and flower plant species by families

Family
	Peas, beans, beans, soybeans, clover
Borage	Borage (borage)
Buckwheat	Buckwheat, rhubarb, sorrel
Lamiaceae	Basil, lemon balm, mint, snakehead, hyssop, marjoram, oregano, sage, savory, thyme
cereals	Corn, oats, wheat, rye, barley
cruciferous	Rutabaga, cabbage (red and white cabbage, kohlrabi, cauliflower, Brussels sprout, Peking, broccoli, etc.), radish, radish, turnip, horseradish, spinach, mustard
lily	Garlic, onion (bulb, leek, shallot, chives, etc.)
	Beetroot, chard

The end of the table.

Representatives of plants of the Liliaceae family ( different kinds onions and garlic) grow very well next to plants of the Umbelliferae (carrots, radishes, celery, parsley and parsnips) and Cruciferous (cabbage) families.

Favorably yes, I also have them next to tomatoes, lettuce, strawberries, potatoes, cucumbers. From flowers, you can plant petunias, chamomiles nearby. Around the beds with onions, it is useful to plant savory and chamomile in small quantities.

Various vegetable crops successfully coexist in the beds with white and black radish.

For many plants, the location near spinach is favorable. Its roots release saponins into the soil, which enhance the growth of many crops (potatoes, tomatoes, beets, beans). Spinach also creates a special microclimate around itself. Its leaves cover the soil and keep it moist and loose. Because of this, spinach is often used as an accompanying plant. It is planted between rows of plants with slower growth, and while the main crops are just emerging, spinach has time to grow and creates favorable conditions for them.

Next to bush beans, a root crop such as radish grows well. This neighborhood has a positive effect on its taste and size, and also protects against damage by worms and cabbage flies. It is recommended to plant radishes 2 weeks before planting bush beans.

Watercress and nasturtium will also help grow large radishes.

For beans, it will be useful if you plant a little celery nearby. Beans grow well along with cucumbers, corn, cabbage, strawberries, pumpkins, beets, carrots. The taste of beans is positively affected by the savory growing nearby.

Good neighbors for vegetable plants are sometimes herbs and flowers. For example, amaranth has a positive effect on eggplant. Lettuce can be planted between eggplants, and basil around them.

For watermelons, adjacent areas with potatoes, oats, corn and peas will be useful. For melon, only radish is a good neighbor.

Cabbage has many varieties. The most popular of them are white, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kohlrabi. They grow better next to onions (any), beans, herbs (mint, chamomile, sage, dill). Potatoes have a positive effect on the taste of cabbage, so these plants are suitable for mixed planting.

Dill, sown between the rows of cabbage, significantly improves its taste.

For the most common type of cabbage, white, the best plants- neighbors are onions, potatoes, lettuce, celery, radishes, bush beans and dill.

Broccoli grows well next to onions, lettuce, beets and celery.

For potatoes, successful neighbors in the garden are eggplant, beans, cabbage (especially cauliflower), corn, carrots, beets, lettuce, radishes, beans, horseradish, garlic, and from herbs and flowers - amaranth, nasturtium, tansy, coriander, spinach. With a mixed planting, potatoes are more resistant to diseases.

Corn creates a shadow next to it, in which cucumbers, watermelons, pumpkins grow well. For corn itself, bush and curly beans, potatoes, and soybeans turn out to be a favorable neighbor.

Legumes enrich the soil with nitrogen, which is very necessary for corn, which, in turn, benefits these climbing plants as a support. You can also plant tomatoes, lettuce, sunflowers next to corn.

Pepper favorably coexists with basil. These plants help each other grow.

A place next to cucumbers is suitable for peas, white and cauliflower, kohlrabi, radishes, onions, lettuce, celery, beets, parsley, sunflowers and beans. Also, tansy and sow thistle have a positive effect on cucumbers. Dill, sown among cucumbers, prolongs the period of their fruiting, and therefore increases the yield.

For parsnips, a place next to legumes and radishes will be useful.

Next to the celery bed, you can plant tomatoes, cabbage, leeks, bush beans. In the shade of these plants, celery grows more fragrant.

Crops such as legumes, carrots, cucumbers and radishes are planted with lettuce.

Tomatoes do well in garden beds next to onions, garlic, carrots, parsley and many flowering plants. If nettles are next to the tomatoes, then they will have a more pronounced taste. Also the growth of this favorite vegetable crop and the improvement of its taste characteristics contributes to the monarda tubular.

To get a good harvest of beets, it is useful to plant carrots, cabbage (with the exception of cauliflower), radishes, lettuce, parsley and dill nearby.

For pumpkins, you can pick up neighbors such as corn, nasturtiums. Sow thistle growing nearby may be useful.

A place next to a radish is suitable for carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, beets, tomatoes, pumpkins, and spinach.

Spicy herbs are isolated in external environment a large number of aromatic substances with volatile properties. Thus, they affect those plants that are planted nearby. Spicy herbs are widely used in cooking and medicine and are often found in gardens among vegetables and berry plants. It is also necessary to select them correctly for joint landings.

Most vegetables are favorably affected by parsley, borage, lavender, marjoram, hyssop, chervil, chamomile, savory, thyme, sage, dill growing nearby. Dandelion helps vegetables and apple trees grow. This plant releases a substance (ethylene) into the environment, which accelerates the ripening of fruits.

Many herbs release substances into the environment that have a beneficial effect on other plants (repel pests, disinfect the air, enhance growth). Such plants are called companion plants. These include anise, basil, mustard leaf, coriander, hyssop, mint, marjoram, lemon balm, cumin, dill.

Some herbs are able to enhance the aromatic properties of each other. For example, if you plant a yarrow next to a nettle, then it will be more odorous, and if mint, the content of essential oils in it will increase by 2 times.

➣ If you plant oak, birch, linden or poplar near the garden, then fruit trees will be in comfortable conditions and will be less sick and bear fruit well. These trees can be placed on the plot or along the edges of the garden.

Oregano and marjoram have a positive effect on the growth and taste of many cultivated plants.

Serpentine (Turkish mint) creates a shade in which cucumbers feel good, which is reflected in their yield.

Coriander is a good neighbor for anise, cumin and many vegetables. It has a positive effect on the structure of the soil, and therefore, next to the overwintered coriander, you can plant vegetables without digging up a bed.

It is useful to plant hyssop next to grapes, this significantly increases the yield of the latter.

Lovage can be planted anywhere in the garden. It is a useful neighbor for many vegetables and improves their taste, increases resistance to disease.

Mint is found in many vegetable gardens. This plant is useful to plant next to tomatoes and cabbage. The harvest will be more abundant, and the taste of vegetables will improve. Mint grows well among sorrel. The main thing is to ensure that the mint does not grow too much.

Near cucumber grass(borago) Strawberries grow best. It is important not to let it grow and cut the bushes in a timely manner. Also, borage increases the resistance of other plants to various diseases. It enhances the growth of peas, cabbage, onions, beans, and many herbs.

Parsley has a positive effect on the taste of tomatoes. You can plant it around rose bushes. A good neighborhood is parsley and onion. First, parsley seeds are sown in rows in the spring, and after 2 weeks, leek seedlings are planted between them. Both crops will grow well.

The following crops grow well next to celery: onions, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, spinach.

A plant such as rue goes well on a plot with vegetable and flower crops, as well as fruit trees and shrubs.

Dill in many gardens grows by self-sowing. This does not always have a positive effect on the yield. The roots of this plant secrete substances that are not good for all vegetables. Therefore, it is better to plant dill specifically next to lettuce, cabbage, onions, cucumbers.

Sage is a useful neighbor for all types of cabbage and carrots, as well as strawberries.

Thyme has a beneficial effect on vegetables growing nearby and improves their taste. It is especially suitable for tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes. Savory improves eggplant growth.

Some weeds can be useful neighbors for cultivated plants. The Japanese farmer-scientist Masanobu Fukuoka, the founder of one of the directions in organic farming, came to the conclusion that it is not necessary to carry out continuous weeding in the fields and gardens or use herbicides. He believes that weeds contribute to maintaining soil fertility and balance in biogeocenoses. M. Fukuoka recommends not to completely destroy weeds, but to periodically mow or limit their growth using mulching. He also advises to create a grass cover in soil gardens from useful weeds or green manure. This has become commonplace in Japan and it is extremely rare to find bare earth in gardens there. With insufficient soil moisture in dry areas, the near-stem circles around the trees are left free for watering and care, and the rest of the territory in the gardens is planted with ground cover green manure. This principle can also be applied in small private gardens. On free vast areas among ground cover plants, beds with cultivated plants (vegetables, herbs) can be placed. For example, small islands of thistle in the garden promote the growth of onions, corn and tomatoes. The main thing is not to let this weed grow.

Various herbs are used for planting between rows in vineyards. Plants useful for grapes additionally protect the soil from erosion by water during irrigation and overdrying. Greatest Benefit for the growth of grapes brings corn. For him, auxiliary vegetable crops are also good neighbors - oil radish and radish. Parsley has a healing effect on vineyards. Contribute to the growth of grapes peas, onions, cauliflower, watercress, beets. Less significant for increasing the yield of grapes are beans, strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, melons, dill.

Of the trees and shrubs for grapes, pear, Chinese magnolia vine and actinidia are compatible. These plants can be planted next to each other. You can also plant grapes and actinidia around a fence or gazebo.

Flower plants, such as asters, geraniums, forget-me-nots, and phlox, can also increase the yield of grapes. They do not benefit, but the irises planted nearby do not harm this plant either.

From plants, you can create a hedge around the garden or vegetable garden. At the same time, shrubs for it must be selected taking into account not only decorativeness or height, but also compatibility with grown plants. Beautiful and useful for the harvest hedges of privet, elderberry, spirea, wild rose. These shrubs have a healing effect on the garden. In the garden, the cultivation of cherries and raspberries in the neighborhood significantly increases the yield. Apple and raspberries heal each other. Raspberries accumulate nitrogen in themselves and increase the oxygen content in the soil, which is beneficial for the apple tree. It is recommended to plant these crops close to each other, but make sure that the raspberries do not grow too much.

The combination of barberry with plum or honeysuckle in the garden has a positive effect on the harvest.

Strawberries grow well under sea buckthorn and some medicinal plants(oregano, chamomile). It is useful to plant onions between currant bushes and leave them in the winter.

Hawthorn grows well at a distance of 4 m from cherries and cherries. If these trees are planted closer, then the hawthorn will be in the shade and wither away.

Good neighbors are an apple tree with a pear. Between them, they maintain a distance of at least 3.5-4 m, otherwise when the trees grow, they will be crowded and the effect will be the opposite.

Dogwood grows safely and bears fruit next to an apricot. You can even plant these plants close to each other, they will still be compatible. Dogwood can grow even with a walnut, which is a single plant. Next to it, all other cultivated plants grow poorly.

At a distance of 5 m from each other, it is permissible to plant plums and cherries. They will bear fruit well. The plum should not be allowed to be between the cherry and the cherry. Under such conditions, the tree will die.

For strawberries, nearby parsley, bush beans, spinach will be useful. You can also plant onions, cabbage, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets and garlic next to it.

If the land plot is zoned for a garden and a vegetable garden, then spicy herbs (anise, basil, lemon balm, coriander, parsley, thyme and tarragon) are planted between fruit trees and vegetable crops.

In order to navigate the choice of cultivated plants for cultivation, as well as the timing of their planting and location on the site, it is recommended to draw a diagram of the garden in advance. This will help to correctly arrange the beds with different plants, outline mixed plantings, check the compatibility of all plants growing next to each other. The following year, this scheme must be changed according to the rules of crop rotation. For this, it is necessary to additionally take into account the compatibility of plants with predecessors.

When selecting plants for adjacent beds, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that some plants are defenders against any diseases or pests (animals, insects, worms).

Plant compatibility can be used to increase overall yield in another way. Plants for compacted plantings are also selected taking into account the height and volume that they occupy. Choosing the right plants, you can make compacted beds.

Plants planted next to each other will not interfere with each other, but, on the contrary, mutually reinforce growth. Care for them is almost the same, so they grow comfortably in the same bed.

Compacted landings can be done at once, i.e. sow the bed with immediately selected crops, or in stages. You can harvest some crops and plant others in the vacant place. This approach allows not only to grow healthy and well-bearing plants, but also to save land.

On the compacted beds, the main plant and the compacting plant are isolated. Usually the latter is more short term achieve technical maturity.

Eggplants, carrots, corn, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, beets, celery are often used as the main crops. Sealing crops are onion, cauliflower and Chinese cabbage, lettuce, radish, beans, pumpkin, garlic, dill. Usually, compact and low-growing plants are used as compacting crops. It is important to correctly position the main and compact crops on the same bed. For example, the central part of the garden can be occupied with beets, and plant radishes, lettuce, dill in rows along the edges.

The compact crops produce quickly and are removed from the garden, while the main crop continues to grow until the end of summer or autumn.

➣ Berry bushes can be included in the hedges. In this case, the protective barrier turns out to be more dense and even prickly. Of the berry bushes, gooseberries, raspberries, and blackcurrants are suitable for this. Next to each other, they bear fruit well.

Plants such as tomato, cabbage, take up a lot of space in the beds and are combined with small vegetables - onions, carrots, radishes. Quick release crops (Beijing cabbage, lettuce, spinach) are good for planting as compacting plants or after the main crops have been harvested. For long-growing crops (carrots, parsley), it is recommended to plant plants that quickly reach technical maturity.

Optimal for compacted beds are combinations of tomato and pepper with basil; cabbage and tomatoes with mint; parsley with tomatoes, peas or strawberries; onions, cucumbers, lettuce or cabbage with dill.

Plan your garden and orchard better in winter in order to grow seedlings of the necessary vegetable and green crops in a timely manner, prepare beds on the plot and successfully plant them in the intended places (Fig. 1.2).

Figure 1. Compacted bed with onions, spinach and carrots

In order for plants on the same bed not to interfere with the growth of each other, it is necessary to take into account not only their allelopathic properties. It is not recommended to plant nearby crops belonging to the same species, as they will consume the same nutrients from the soil. It must be taken into account that tall plants create a shadow for lower plants, which is not always useful for the latter. It is also necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the root system of plants when combined plantings. If their roots lie at the same level in the soil, then the impact of colins will be more significant, and competition for nutrients and moisture will increase.

Figure 2. Compacted bed with beets and lettuce