Aged beef for steak. The new is just an improvement on the old

More and more often, the ending “aged” in the names of steaks appears on the menu of restaurants, in butcher shops they offer special aged meat, and housewives buy vacuum devices for its special storage. Such a hype around aged meat arose for a reason, because it has a rich taste and aroma. But has such an unusual technology emerged just now?

Ripening (aging) of meat has been around for a very, very long time. For many years it was customary to store meat in a dark cool place, since the whole carcass of an animal could not be eaten at one time. With each day of storage, the meat was aged, became softer and more aromatic.

In the 17th century, paintings by famous artists such as Rembrandt, Jacob Leysens and others appeared, depicting stretched animal carcasses. This is how their contemporaries stored the meat: first, the skin was removed from the carcass, then the carcass was stretched on wooden beams and placed in a dark room, where the meat was stored to avoid spoilage and aged in the process. At the same time, there was a high risk of meat rotting due to natural temperature changes. This method can be considered the progenitor of modern dry age technology.

At present, thanks to modern technologies you can get delicious aged meat without special efforts, and the risk of decay during exposure is reduced to zero.

Why is endurance needed?

Aging or maturation of meat is an integral part general training meat for consumption. Neglecting this process, we can get tough dry meat, which will not be distinguished by good taste and richness of aroma.

The scientific name for meat aging is autolysis. In the process of autolysis in meat, spontaneous chemical processes leading to changes in physical and chemical properties product:

• meat strength;
• water-retaining abilities;
• taste, color, aroma;
• resistance to microbiological processes.

The whole process of autolysis can be divided into several stages, which smoothly flow into one another:

• fresh meat;
• rigor;
• rigor resolution or, directly maturation.

Fresh meat

This is the meat within 4 hours after slaughter. At this time, the product has a soft texture and high water-holding capacity. However, the taste and aroma are not expressed at all. The pH of normal fresh meat is 7.2. But it is important to consider that the meat is not homogeneous, so the autolysis process in different parts carcasses can take place in completely different ways. Basically, it depends on the temperature of meat storage, the conditions for slaughtering the carcass, and the conditions for keeping animals.

Rigor

The next step is rigor. It occurs approximately 3-4 hours after slaughter, and lasts up to 24-28 hours at a temperature of 0°-4° C. At this stage, the meat is characterized by increased rigidity, low water-holding capacity, and low acidity pH at 5.5. At this stage, the taste and aromatic properties of the meat are reduced and give it a sour taste.

However, rigor has its advantages:

• increasing resistance to the development of putrefactive microorganisms;
• swelling of collagen in connective tissue (improvement of meat structure).

After complete rigor, the process of maturation of meat begins. best conditions, at which the meat acquires high gastronomic indicators, it is considered to be 25-30 days of exposure at a temperature of 0 ° - 4 ° C. However, even before the expiration of this period, the meat can be used: stiffness decreases markedly by 5-7 days of exposure, taste properties significantly improved in 10-15 days.

It is important to remember that high performance can only be achieved if proper cultivation and animal feeding. When deviating from existing norms, the above processes can proceed completely differently and have unpredictable results.

Diversity you don't know about

Over the years, formed various ways meat maturation. Initially, they were used only to preserve the product in a quality suitable for consumption. At present, many types of meat aging seem to be exotic, due to which they are successful in haute cuisine Worldwide. Below are some of them.

Aqua maturation

The name speaks for itself: the meat is aged in mineral water, in which the composition of minerals must be controlled to avoid changes palatability. The method is quite laborious, which is why it is not popular, but the meat is tender and juicy.

Hautgout

French for "high taste". Meat aged in this way, in fur or feathers, acquired a sweet taste. tart taste due to the initial stage of decomposition protein product. Game aged in this way has been a success in the kitchens of France since the beginning of the 18th century, however, due to specific hygienic features, this method of meat aging is not currently used.

Aging meat in parchment

This method is an improved method of wet aging of meat. Before vacuuming, the meat is wrapped in parchment paper, which further helps to remove excess meat juice. Thanks to this, the meat does not acquire a metallic-sour taste, which is characteristic of wet aging.

Dry mold aging

IN this case the meat is inoculated with fungal bacteria that form a crust of mold. Thanks to this maturation, the meat gets a nutty aroma, rich taste and delicate structure. Mold is not eaten, therefore, before cooking meat, the crust must be cut off

Aging meat in fat

This method has been known for hundreds of years due to its simplicity and efficiency. The meat is covered big amount beef fat, due to which it can be stored quite for a long time and develop a delicate texture.

The above methods are currently not widely used. Meat producers and restaurateurs use simple and effective ways such as wet aging and dry aging.

The meat is packed in a vacuum, after which it is placed in a refrigerator and kept at a temperature of 1°-3°C. Thanks to the vacuum bag, the juice secreted by the meat does not disappear, which means that the steak remains juicy. After 10-14 days, the meat becomes soft and tender, while there are practically no mass losses. In addition, steaks in vacuum bags are easy to transport and store.

Despite the simplicity this method exist and negative sides wet maturation:

• taste and aroma change slightly
• in the presence of excess meat juice, the meat may acquire a metallic-sour taste
• lower water-holding capacity than, for example, dry-aged meat (because there is less collagen production)

As a result, soft and tender meat is obtained, otherwise the gastronomic properties of meat practically do not improve.

Currently, there are special Lava vacuum bags with a membrane valve.
During the aging process, excess moisture comes out through the membrane envelope, which improves the gastronomic properties of the meat. With LAVA bags it is convenient to keep the meat at home, but it is advisable to use meat without sharp bones, as they can deform the bag.

dry aging

Dry aging of meat (or dry aging) is one of the oldest meat processing techniques. Unlike wet aging, enzymes are more active, due to which the product is especially tasty and aromatic. With dry aging, the meat is located in special chambers, in which following conditions:

• humidity level 65-85%;
• temperature 1°- 4° С;
• provision of ventilation;
• providing sterilization of incoming air.

During the whole process, the enzymes present in the meat activate chemical processes that break down muscle fibers, making the product more tender, forming a flavor "bouquet" and rich aroma, while temperature and humidity inhibit the development of bacteria and mold.

Special attention should be paid to the selection and preparation of meat:

• first of all, it is better to take meat after 20-30 hours from the moment of slaughtering the animal only from trusted farmers / companies;
• it is irrational to subject individual pieces of steak to dry aging, the piece will simply dry out, losing its appearance and taste. For dry aging, it is recommended to take large raw* cuts on the bone with an even distribution of fat;
• it is important to position the meat so that the pieces come into contact with any surfaces as little as possible (if possible, it is better to hang them on hooks) and be fully ventilated to prevent the development of fungus and mold;
• it is important to use specialized equipment and avoid sudden changes in humidity and temperature levels, for uniform and high-quality ripening.

As a result, after 3-4 weeks, the meat acquires indescribable gastronomic qualities and a delicate texture that will delight even true gourmets.

________________________________________________________

* Uncleaned cut - a cut that has retained its layer subcutaneous fat, which allows to maintain the volume of net yield of meat after aging, and also contributes to a high level of moisture retention.

DRY AGER breaks stereotypes

It may seem to many that meat aging is laborious and technologically complex process. DRY AGER proved the opposite by presenting to the world a line of equipment and accessories for dry meat maturation.

Meat aging, also referred to by such terms as fermentation and maturation, is a special preparatory process in order to improve the final properties of beef cuts for further preparation out of him .

After the bull was slaughtered at the slaughterhouse and its carcass was butchered, a variety of chemical processes are triggered in the slaughtered animal, that is, the structure and properties change.

The initial stage in the preparation of the carcass is its maturation for several hours after slaughtering and butchering. At this time, all the muscles of the bull are completely relaxed and softened. With exposure, it is already possible to send cuts to the supermarket for sale.

What are the methods of exposure

Further development of decomposition processes leads to the final necrosis of all tissues, changes in color and odor, water level and acid content. But if the process takes place at a strictly defined humidity, then the enzymes are able, on the contrary, to improve the properties of the bull carcass, and this is in the hands of all lovers of delicious steaks.

There are several types of meat aging for beef steaks:

• Dry
• Wet
• Combined

More on all of them below.

Dry-aged meat

With this method of preparing beef for steaks, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature regime and the level of humidity in the meat aging chamber. It is carried out at a temperature of 1 to 5 degrees Celsius. IN industrial scale for the aging of meat, a special refrigerator is used, where ideal conditions are created.

The main purpose of ripening is to break down the animal's muscle tissue so that the steak is soft and not rubbery. It is also very important in this process to change for the better the natural smell of beef. Thanks to this, in the best restaurants do not use any marinades when cooking real steaks, because the taste of the cut has already been revealed during languishing.

This process occurs due to biochemical reactions that begin immediately after the slaughter of the bull. Special enzymes begin to quickly destroy the muscles of the animal, and fungal compounds appear on the surface of the cut, which give a unique flavor.

These fungi are removed at the end of the ripening period by cutting off the top layer.

The term of this type of aging is on average from 14 to 35 days. Often in restaurants in the US and Europe, when ordering a traditional steak, you will eat a cut aged in this way for 18 to 25 days.

In some cultures and countries, for example, in Florence, aging can be found within 50 and even up to 100 days. The fact is that in these countries the culture of consuming steaks has gone far ahead. And there they appreciate this dish very well and know how to cook it correctly.

And the longest exposure known today is about 400 days. But such raw materials are not entirely suitable for consumption, due to an overly harsh aroma. It is rather used in very expensive restaurants as an ingredient in haute cuisine.

The disadvantages of this method include:

Loss of significant carcass mass during fermentation. This is due to the evaporation of moisture. And also before direct cooking, the upper fungal layer is removed from the pieces. All this leads to an increase in the price of the final raw material.

And also in connection with the need to constantly monitor and control this maturation process, additional staff is needed. This is an extra cost for a steak house.

I've been meaning to write this post for a long time. But this is not written quickly. My hands are still shaking because the topic is a bit "slippery". I will make a reservation right away. I will tell you the theory, my experience, and the experience of people who helped me a lot in writing this post. Further, each of you is responsible for your own health, and applies your common sense and intuition.
Because we will talk about the maturation of meat in general and the maturation of meat at home.

The formal part of the post

Let's start with theory, so let's turn to Mr. McGee and Peter (pachom), who kindly helped me write this post.
Like cheese and wine, meat gets better when it is kept for a certain period of time, during which there will be a gradual change in it. chemical composition. Thanks to this, it becomes more tasty, fragrant and tender. In the 19th century, beef and lamb carcasses were stored for days or even weeks at room temperature until the outside rotted. The French called this "mortification", and the great chef of the time, Antonin Karem, said that this process should take as long as possible.

Today we prefer to eat less mortified flesh. In the USA (note of the author of the post: I think in Russia even more so), for the most part, meat ages insignificantly, only for a few days, during which the meat is delivered from the packing plant to the store. This period is sufficient for chicken, which lasts 1-2 days of aging, and for pork and lamb, which lasts a week (unsaturated fats in pork and poultry become rancid quickly enough). But in beef, the taste and texture can improve within a month. Especially when the whole unwrapped parts of the carcass are kept at a temperature of 1-3 ºС and air humidity of 70-80%.

Enzymes in action

Meat aging is due to muscle enzymes. After slaughter, the animal's body ceases to function. At this time, the enzymes present in the meat activate chemical processes that destroy muscle fibers, making the meat more tender and finally forming its flavor "bouquet". During the aging process (aging) of meat, which can last from 2 to 28 days, proteolytic enzymes (calpain, cathepsin, etc.) contained in meat slowly break down large molecules and turn proteins into amino acids, glycogen into glucose, and fats - in aromatic fatty acid. All this contributes to the softening of the meat and the enrichment of its flavors, while the temperature and humidity inhibit the development of bacteria and mold, without interfering with the work of enzymes. You can only endure large pieces: whole carcasses, half carcasses, or, in extreme cases, quarters.

Aging has been the subject of lively debate in recent years. First, butchers and steak lovers discuss the type: dry or wet. Supporters of the dry method emphasize that wet aging only softens the meat, but does not affect its aroma, while dry aging makes the smell more expressive, accentuating shades similar to the smell of game.
Dry - the most ancient, takes place in a special refrigeration room, where special conditions in terms of temperature and humidity ventilation.

During aging, the meat is placed on shelves or hung.

The temperature is maintained at 2-4 degrees, humidity is maintained at 50-75%. Also a key success factor for aging meat is good air circulation, for which the room where the meat is aged must be equipped with good ventilation. During the aging process, excess moisture evaporates from the cut of meat, the fibers soften and fermentation begins. Thus, the meat becomes softer, and the taste is much more intense.
As the meat loses moisture during the aging process, it also shrinks in size. Let's calculate the time it takes to age the meat, all the overhead costs, which gives us a higher price for the final product.
The dry aging process is economically viable only with meat highest quality and marbling - this is if we speak from the point of view restaurant business.

Wet aging - over recent invention, which involves wrapping meat in film, or vacuum packaging. During wet aging, the meat loses much less weight, since 70% of the meat is water, which, of course, evaporates during dry aging (weight loss during aging under film is about 5% versus almost 20% during normal hanging). In addition, during dry aging, a rather hard crust forms on the surface of the meat, which must be cut off before cutting, which further increases the loss. An additional inconvenience is that wet aging can take place in stages, first at the slaughterhouse, then at the butcher's, while dry aging must take place all the time in one place. Therefore, about 90% of the meat in the world is now kept wet.

Most of meat that is served in steakhouses in Russia (for example, in Goodman) passes wet exposure. The meat is purchased in Australia, transported in a special vacuum packaging in almost " own juice". This method, of course, is cheaper and more economical, since the exposure takes place during the transportation itself.

Similar, but at times accelerated process occurs when meat is cooked. If the meat is quickly seared in a pan or blanched in boiling water to kill germs on the surface, then cooked slowly at low temperatures For example in an oven, the enzymes in the meat will be very active for the first few hours until they are broken down. A piece of beef carcass weighing 23 kg, which is gradually brought to a temperature of 50-55 º C over 10 hours, turns out to be more tender than the same meat, cut into small portions and prepared in a "quick" way.

Main question - can we age steak meat at home? The answer is yes, if we stick to a few rules.

These rules were formulated by Peter. I will now voice them, with my additions.

1. Only the highest quality marbled meat should be aged. It is in such cuts of meat (I note that we are not talking about chopped steaks) that the fat on the outside prevents meat from spoiling during the aging process.

2. Buy a cut of striploin or ribeye - sold, for example, at the Metro Cash and Carry store. Already cut steaks usually do not undergo the aging process. Remove a piece of meat from the package, rinse, blot paper towels.

3. Wrap the meat in the cleanest large cotton towel or cheesecloth and place on the lowest temperature shelf in the refrigerator. Preferably 0-3 º C. And it would be nice not just on the shelf, but on the grate. It is better not to put other products on this shelf during the entire aging process.

4. Change your towel every day, replacing wet towels with dry ones. Used towels can be washed and reused. At first, the meat must be carefully observed, perhaps even changing towels several times a day.

5. After reaching the desired aging time, cut off your steaks from the cut of meat, and continue to store the remaining piece in the refrigerator

6. After 21 days, uneaten meat is still desirable to eat or freeze.

The informal part of the post

So my experience:

Let's start with steaks. Yes, I certainly read that the steaks do not stand. But I'm a stubborn girl, so I decided to try anyway. I bought 2 ribeye steaks in the Metro, and kept them for a week.

Result: 1 steak was very dry, the other was dry on top. There was no mold. In general, it was possible to eat, but the juiciness of the dried steak was clearly not enough. The taste has improved markedly.
But, nevertheless, it is not worth aging steaks for more than 2 days.

All this is great, you say. Rib-eyes, striploins and other Australian bourgeois habits are yours. It is expensive, expensive for us to buy a piece of Australian cow for 3000-5000 rubles. Isn't it possible to make our native beef old?
You can age. I personally tried.

I bought a piece of a thick edge weighing 2 kg on the market. The total cost is 500 rubles.
I came home and the epic with gauze began. Even when I left for a week, specially trained relatives went to change the gauze. They even say that my usually calm and tenderly loving father-in-law threw a scandal on his wife. In short, he said that I was crazy, determined to poison the whole family. Oh well, I was away.

Yes, the meat did look suspicious. I understand him.

What bothered me the most was that on the cut it continued to be wet. So slightly (faint of heart do not read further) slimy. It smelled not to say appetizing, but not rotten either.

Here comes the 21st day. I courageously took the meat out of the refrigerator, armed myself with a sharp Japanese chef, and began to cut. Under the spoiled layer, I found absolutely ordinary, bright red, normal-smelling meat. Fresh, that is to say, meat. As if just from the store (from the market).

Having hung a piece, I found out that from two kilograms I had 700 grams left. Also consider the costal bones. They had to be cut off, because I don’t have that ax and strength, and besides, picking out spoiled pieces of meat from them would be too dreary.
It tasted like regular Russian beef. This is not Australia, not England, not Spain and the list goes on. But the meat was very tender. It's true. For the purity of the experience, I should have tasted this meat before ripening. But…….good thought comes after.

First, I cut off two small pieces and fried them. Sorry, the degree of roasting was absolute. I don’t know why, I didn’t have the courage to eat this meat with blood, or even medium degree roasting. Here is the Australian meat that has already set you on edge, eat it, but our native could not.

The remaining piece I marinated in olive oil, soy sauce with chili flakes, ibmir and coriander. Again, with a good ribeye, I would not do this, so as not to clog its amazing taste, which no longer requires any words or actions. And there was nothing to score here, rather, there was something to embellish. When my unsuspecting husband came home, I "burned" the heated room temperature grilled meat in a frying pan on all sides, and in it she sent it to an oven preheated to 160 º C. Bake until completely cooked through. Why, read above.

What do you say? We had a good dinner with this very meat, a salad of juicy and sweet tomatoes with red onions, pickles with pimples, cilantro and goat feta. Washed down with dry red wine. But, this is not the same Australian meat from which you want to live up to 100 years and eat only it.

So don't expect miracles. I was also warned about this by a wonderful girl Rita, who has amazing interesting magazine. So Rita often ages meat.

Yesterday I sent her a personal email. I think our letters to each other will help you further clarify the picture. Rita does not consider herself a specialist, but she has much more experience than I do. And therefore I advise you to listen to it.

The most informal part of the post

Me: Rita, hi!
It's me again with my cows))
I finally got to the meat and its aging.
She did, and then reread our correspondence. I realized that I made several mistakes. I didn't put the meat on the grill. Changed gauze once a day.
I bought a thick edge weighing 2 kg.
And everything would be fine, but the meat on top all the time remained moist, a little slimy, it smelled normal. Today cut off, inside everything is beautiful. Fine. Even ate two pieces, still alive.
What do you think about this topic?
I have already ordered an Australian entrecote, I will try again, this time with a grill.
Can I send you a couple of pictures, tell me if I will live?
Now I will bake the remaining piece in the oven.

Rita: hello :)
Olya, you ask me like that, as if I were a major specialist. And I've never written anything like that about myself. So, sometimes I stand meat. We also have meat that is completely unsuitable for such manipulations with it. And personally, if I had the opportunity, I would buy seasoned and not bathe.
If the meat is from an animal of a special breed and fattening, then at 0-(+4) Celsius it will remain dry. And if standard fattening, then yes, it will be wet. And in such cases, I not only change the gauze once a day, but for the first 3-5 days I constantly watch the meat, wipe it dry and change the gauze 4.5 times a day. At first, the meat can be left without gauze for a while, so that it dries up and forms a crust. But don't overuse it. And when a crust has already formed on the meat, then you can change the gauze less often, after about a week you can even once a day.
Judging by your photos, you figured everything out well without help :)
A with Australian beef I think it will be even easier.

Me: Rita, thanks for the reply! I would buy it too if it was on sale.
This was clearly my mistake (about gauze 5 times a day), and I forgot about the grate.
Mine was wet, you can't see it in the photo. And it scared me. Although the gauze itself, when I took it off, was almost dry. But we ate until everything is OK)) The taste was not impressive. But it was soft, yes.
And about breeds and fattening - these are your observations, or did you read where?
And another question: can a piece of 2 kg be dried, or should a piece be larger?
You may not be an expert, but I no longer found people in our livejournal doing this on a regular basis. So your help is invaluable to me!

Rita:
You just need to keep an eye on the meat, not to let it get wet at all, and it is desirable that the room is ventilated, and the temperature is appropriate, and in the refrigerator it is not only difficult, but troublesome to follow this. So I say that you need to rush with him like a fool with a mortar. This is the whole secret. Therefore, it is better to engage in aging in the fall, when it is possible to take the meat into the barn or onto the balcony. Well, as a result, ripe meat, which is not suitable for steaks a priori, by its nature. And the taste, of course, is not the same.
And my observations. But this is also intuitive. Meat of special fattening has a specific structure, it contains numerous fatty inclusions. And fat, it kind of "melts", and not "gets wet". As a result, a piece of meat with such a structure does not become wet, but floats with fat. It will quickly form a crust. And for such meat, compliance with temperature regime and sufficient air circulation than the humidity parameters. This is if on the fingers :)
A piece, of course, would be nice if there was more. Then you will lose less when trimming.
You can just count. How much steaks do you want and how much do you want them to weigh, plus 15-20 percent for shrinkage and trimming.

Results

This concludes my saga, but temporarily. Because I will continue my experiments. You understand that you can age Russian meat, imported meat, various pieces of it, different amount days. Only experience can lead to perfection. And so that you do not get bored, I will tell you about my experiences. The next to go is meat from……..yes, yes, Australia!
But the story of this is not earlier than in a month.

Yes, I'm leaving now. Let me just summarize:

Domestic meat can and should be ripened. Initially, it does not have a special aroma and brightness of taste, it is often hard. After aging, the meat will definitely become soft. But hardly fragrant. That's the kind of beef we have. Alas and ah, it is not suitable for steaks. But just a very good fried or baked meat is guaranteed to you. But this is of course, if initially it is of digestible quality. Better yet, go to the market, to the butcher, who can be at least somewhat trusted.

P.S. By the way, I have experience in purchasing Russian aged meat. Kind of like a farmer's. Allegedly, even Angus grown in domestic open spaces. The sheepskin was not worth the candle. The meat was absolutely normal. Albeit soft.

P.S. Thank you very much for your help.

If you have ever tried, believe me, you have known heaven on earth. In this article I will talk about the difference between dry and wet aging steaks and how to age marbled beef Houses.

If you bought a steak in a store, then with a high degree of probability it can be argued that this is. This method, unlike dry aging, is new. Dry aging of beef has been used since the 1950s. Recall that during wet aging, the meat is placed in a vacuum package, where a moist environment is maintained. wet aging makes the meat softer and more tender, while dry-aged steaks have a more concentrated and complex taste.

How to ripen steaks at home

The main components of successful dry aging of beef are temperature (from 1 to 3 degrees Celsius), humidity (about 50-60%) and constant air circulation. Dry aging at home is not an easy process. A popular misconception is that you can age steaks at home by simply wrapping them in cheesecloth or paper towels, then leaving them in the refrigerator for 4-7 days.

This method does dehydrate the steaks, which increases the intensity of the flavor, but it's not the right way. First, the meat must be at least 14 days old for increased fermentation and fiber breakdown, and at least 21 days old for complex flavors to develop. One week in the refrigerator with gauze will not give such an effect.

Dry aging in the home refrigerator

dry aging in conventional refrigerator without special equipment will not provide the necessary microflora and humidity level. The need to purchase a special refrigerator is the biggest and most costly problem for aging steaks at home. If you are not ready to buy special equipment, stock up on a small fan and a tray. Make sure your refrigerator is perfectly clean and sanitized. Use a large cut with a lot of fat, it will save the meat, and after aging you can cut it without too much regret. Under it, as under a hat, there will be well-preserved and not spoiled meat.
Never store meat in the refrigerator with other foods. If you have cooked soup with tomatoes and onions, the cut will immediately absorb these flavors. Sound appetizing? Not really!

To get started, install a small electric fan inside the refrigerator to maintain airflow.
- Next, install the grate on the tray (needed to collect moisture). Make sure that the air flow is blowing over the meat from all sides.
- Put the meat on the grill. Then move the tray and wait.

2-4 weeks - if you only need to add tenderness, 4-6 weeks to get famous taste dry aged meat and 6-8 (or more) weeks if you want really unusual and bright aroma and taste. Remember that every time you open the refrigerator door, you are disturbing the humidity level and allowing unwanted odors to enter.

After the lapse of the right amount time, remove the cut from the refrigerator. On the outside, it will be dark red or purple-brown in color, and there may be a slight presence of mold. Completely cut off this formed crust and some fat. If you found on a cut white mold or pale green growths, just take a towel soaked in vinegar and wipe it off. This is not a cause for concern. If you are afraid of mold, then dry aging steaks at home - not very good idea for you. Finally, cut the meat into steaks. We recommend cutting steaks 2.5 to 5 cm thick or thicker.
Remember: when aging steaks at home, it is quite difficult to control the humidity and temperature without professional equipment! Because of this, home aging tends to be less accurate and correct than aging in specially equipped chambers. And finally, do not forget that the main thing is good meat and a butcher who will always help you along the way.

Exposure, or maturation of meat is important process in preparing meat for culinary use. Neglecting this out of ignorance, we get tough and dry steaks, which are characterized by their inedibility.

So, how to avoid it and what you need to know about meat aging?

Autolysis- This scientific name the process of aging meat, in which chemical processes spontaneously occur in the meat, leading to changes in both the physical and chemical properties of the product.

Namely, they change:
- strength of meat;
- its water-retaining ability;
- taste, color, aroma;
- resistance to microbiological processes.

The whole process of meat ripening (or autolysis) can be conditionally divided into three stages:
- fresh meat;
- stiffness;
- resolution of stiffness, or maturation.
All these processes smoothly flow one into another. Understanding these stages will bring us as close as possible to the most valuable gastronomic moment of using meat.

Stage 1. Fresh meat
Fresh meat includes meat immediately after the slaughter of the animal and cutting the carcass. For poultry it is 30 minutes, for cattle and pork it is 2-4 hours.

The meat at this stage is characterized by a soft texture with high water-holding capacity, but the smell and taste of such meat is not sufficiently pronounced. pH of normal fresh meat at neutral level = 7.2. To measure the pH level in meat, you can use special ph meters that you will find in the academy store.

It should also be understood that the stages and processes in different parts of the carcass do not proceed simultaneously, but may have temporal differences depending on the density and structure of the tissues. Also, the course of these processes is affected by the temperature of meat storage, fattening of animals and their maintenance, activity and stress during slaughter.

Stage 2. Rigor
After about 3 hours, the process of stiffness begins, it reaches a maximum after 24-48 hours at a temperature of 0-4C.

The meat at this stage is characterized by increased rigidity, reduced moisture retention properties, a decrease in pH to 5.5 (towards acidity), which worsens its taste and aroma, creating a sour taste.

But there are advantages to lowering the acidity of meat:
- increases the resistance of meat to the action of putrefactive microorganisms;
- swelling of connective tissue collagen occurs;
- the taste of meat changes.

Stage 3. Rigor rigor resolution
After complete rigor rigor, the process of permissive rigor rigor or meat ripening begins. Optimal time at which the meat reaches the best gastronomic performance is 25-30 days at 0-4C.

But before the expiration of 25-30 days, optimal changes are also observed allowing the use of meat ahead of schedule. So the stiffness most noticeably decreases after 5-7 days at 0-4C, and decreases during subsequent storage, taste characteristics reach an optimum in 10-14 days, after a significant improvement was not observed.

At this stage, the muscles of the meat relax, the strength of the meat decreases, the water-binding capacity of the meat increases, and the taste and aroma increase.

Important in the stages of meat aging.

It is important to understand that all of these characteristics apply to animals with right conditions content, with a regular feeding ration and correct (stress-free) slaughter. When deviating from the norm, the processes taking place in the muscles can differ significantly, both in time and in the chemical course.

Types of meat aging. Dry and Wet Aging

have been described above General terms for meat maturation. Now it's time to talk about the practical side of this issue and how to implement this meat improvement technology.

To date, two methods of aging meat are used:
- dry exposure (dry-aged);
- wet exposure (wet-aged).

dry aging

This process is aimed at the evaporation of moisture and the destruction of connective tissues as a result of fermentation. The essence of this technology lies in the fact that after slaughter, meat (in pieces or half carcasses) is hung out in special refrigeration chambers for maturation. This is what beef is used for. premium with an even distribution of fat.

The temperature in the chambers is constant and maintained in the range of 1-3C, it is at this temperature that the development of harmful bacteria is least likely. The chambers should be well ventilated with a constant humidity of 50-75%. After 15-28 days, we get fermented meat with an incredibly rich taste and delicate texture.

But it is worth considering that with this method of aging, the meat loses up to 20-30% of its original weight, in addition, after dry aging, you have to cut off the top dried crust with fungi, which also contribute to the process of fermentation and enhance the taste of meat. All this significantly increases the cost of the final product.

Therefore, meat cooked in this way is difficult to find on the shelves of the store, it is possible to try it only in steakhouses.

Dry aging at home. It's possible

1. Only the highest quality meat makes sense to subject to the aging process (striploin, ribeye or tendeloin).

2. Buy a cut of striploin or ribeye. Already cut steaks usually do not undergo the aging process. Remove from package, rinse and pat dry with paper towels.

3. Wrap the meat in a clean, large cotton towel and place on the lowest temperature shelf in the refrigerator. (You can also put a container with sea ​​salt, which will not only absorb excess moisture, but will also serve as an antiseptic).

4. Change your towel every day, replacing wet towels with dry ones. Used towels can be washed and reused.

5. After reaching the desired aging time (from 15 to 21 days), cut off your steaks from the cut of meat, and continue to store the remaining piece in the refrigerator.

6. After 21 days, it is still advisable to eat or freeze the uneaten meat.

Wet aging

With wet exposure, the meat is placed in Vacuum package and solder it in a vacuum cleaner. For optimal results, you will need from a few days to a week. With this aging method, the meat retains its moisture and requires less time. Wet-aged meat is more juicy and tender, unlike dry-aged meat, which differs rich aroma and taste.

Whole necessary inventory and equipment for the implementation of these technologies can be found in