Aged meat. Hautgoût is a gourmet product

I've been meaning to write this post for a long time. But this is not written quickly. My hands are still shaking because the topic is a bit "slippery". I will make a reservation right away. I will tell you the theory, my experience, and the experience of people who helped me a lot in writing this post. Further, each of you is responsible for your own health, and applies your common sense and intuition.
Because we will talk about the maturation of meat in general and the maturation of meat at home.

The formal part of the post

Let's start with theory, so let's turn to Mr. McGee and Peter (pachom), who kindly helped me write this post.
Like cheese and wine, meat gets better when it is left for a certain period of time, during which there will be a gradual change in its chemical composition. Thanks to this, it becomes more tasty, fragrant and tender. In the 19th century, beef and lamb carcasses were stored for days or even weeks at room temperature until the outside rotted. The French called this "mortification", and the great chef of the time, Antonin Karem, said that this process should take as long as possible.

Today we prefer to eat less mortified flesh. In the USA (note of the author of the post: I think in Russia even more so), for the most part, meat ages insignificantly, only for a few days, during which the meat is delivered from the packing plant to the store. This period is sufficient for chicken, which lasts 1-2 days of aging, and for pork and lamb, which lasts a week (unsaturated fats in pork and poultry become rancid quickly enough). But in beef, the taste and texture can improve within a month. Especially when the whole unwrapped parts of the carcass are kept at a temperature of 1-3 ºС and air humidity of 70-80%.

Enzymes in action

Meat aging is due to muscle enzymes. After slaughter, the animal's body ceases to function. At this time, the enzymes present in the meat activate chemical processes that destroy muscle fibers, making the meat more tender and finally forming its flavor "bouquet". During the aging process (aging) of meat, which can last from 2 to 28 days, proteolytic enzymes (calpain, cathepsin, etc.) contained in meat slowly break down large molecules and turn proteins into amino acids, glycogen into glucose, and fats into aromatic fatty acids. All this contributes to the softening of the meat and the enrichment of its flavors, while the temperature and humidity inhibit the development of bacteria and mold, without interfering with the work of enzymes. You can only endure large pieces: whole carcasses, half carcasses, or, in extreme cases, quarters.

Aging has been the subject of lively debate in recent years. First, butchers and steak lovers discuss the type: dry or wet. Supporters of the dry method emphasize that wet aging only softens the meat, but does not affect its aroma, while dry aging makes the smell more expressive, accentuating shades similar to the smell of game.
Dry - the most ancient, takes place in a special refrigeration room, where special conditions in terms of temperature and humidity ventilation.

During aging, the meat is placed on shelves or hung.

The temperature is maintained at 2-4 degrees, humidity is maintained at 50-75%. Also a key success factor for aging meat is good air circulation, for which the room where the meat is aged must be equipped with good ventilation. During the aging process, excess moisture evaporates from the cut of meat, the fibers soften and fermentation begins. Thus, the meat becomes softer, and the taste is much more intense.
As the meat loses moisture during the aging process, it also shrinks in size. Let's calculate the time it takes to age the meat, all the overhead costs, which gives us a higher price for the final product.
The dry aging process is economically justified only with meat of the highest quality and marbling - this is if we speak from the point of view restaurant business.

Wet aging - over recent invention, which involves packaging meat in a film, or vacuum packaging. During wet aging, the meat loses much less weight, since 70% of the meat is water, which, of course, evaporates during dry aging (weight loss during aging under film is about 5% versus almost 20% during normal hanging). In addition, during dry aging, a rather hard crust forms on the surface of the meat, which must be cut off before cutting, which further increases the loss. An additional inconvenience is that wet aging can take place in stages, first at the slaughterhouse, then at the butcher's, while dry aging must take place all the time in one place. Therefore, about 90% of the meat in the world is now kept wet.

Most of the meat that is served in steakhouses in Russia (eg Goodman) is wet aged. The meat is purchased in Australia, transported in a special vacuum packaging in almost " own juice". This method, of course, is cheaper and more economical, since the exposure takes place during the transportation itself.

Similar, but at times accelerated process occurs when meat is cooked. If the meat is quickly seared in a pan or blanched in boiling water to kill the germs on the surface, and then cooked slowly at low temperatures, such as in an oven, the enzymes in the meat will be very active for the first few hours until they break down. A piece of beef carcass weighing 23 kg, which is gradually brought to a temperature of 50-55 º C over 10 hours, turns out to be more tender than the same meat, cut into small portions and cooked in a "quick" way.

Main question - can we age steak meat at home? The answer is yes, if we stick to a few rules.

These rules were formulated by Peter. I will now voice them, with my additions.

1. Only the highest quality marbled meat should be aged. It is in such cuts of meat (I note that we are not talking about chopped steaks) that the fat on the outside prevents meat from spoiling during the aging process.

2. Buy a cut of striploin or ribeye - sold, for example, at the Metro Cash and Carry store. Already cut steaks usually do not undergo the aging process. Remove a piece of meat from the package, rinse, pat dry with paper towels.

3. Wrap the meat in the cleanest large cotton towel or cheesecloth and place on the lowest temperature shelf in the refrigerator. Preferably 0-3 º C. And it would be nice not just on the shelf, but on the grate. It is better not to put other products on this shelf during the entire aging process.

4. Change your towel every day, replacing wet towels with dry ones. Used towels can be washed and reused. At first, the meat must be carefully observed, perhaps even changing towels several times a day.

5. After reaching the desired aging time, cut off your steaks from the cut of meat, and continue to store the remaining piece in the refrigerator

6. After 21 days, uneaten meat is still desirable to eat or freeze.

The informal part of the post

So my experience:

Let's start with steaks. Yes, I certainly read that the steaks do not stand. But I'm a stubborn girl, so I decided to try anyway. I bought 2 ribeye steaks in the Metro, and kept them for a week.

Result: 1 steak was very dry, the other was dry on top. There was no mold. In general, it was possible to eat, but the juiciness of the dried steak was clearly not enough. The taste has improved markedly.
But, nevertheless, it is not worth aging steaks for more than 2 days.

All this is great, you say. Rib-eyes, striploins and other Australian bourgeois habits are yours. It is expensive, expensive for us to buy a piece of Australian cow for 3000-5000 rubles. Isn't it possible to make our native beef old?
You can age. I personally tried.

I bought a piece of a thick edge weighing 2 kg on the market. The total cost is 500 rubles.
I came home and the epic with gauze began. Even when I left for a week, specially trained relatives went to change the gauze. They even say that my usually calm and tenderly loving father-in-law threw a scandal on his wife. In short, he said that I was crazy, determined to poison the whole family. Oh well, I was away.

Yes, the meat did look suspicious. I understand him.

What bothered me the most was that on the cut it continued to be wet. So slightly (faint of heart do not read further) slimy. It smelled not to say appetizing, but not rotten either.

Here comes the 21st day. I courageously took the meat out of the refrigerator, armed myself with a sharp Japanese chef, and began to cut. Under the spoiled layer, I found absolutely ordinary, bright red, normal-smelling meat. Fresh, that is to say, meat. As if just from the store (from the market).

Having hung a piece, I found out that from two kilograms I had 700 grams left. Also consider the costal bones. They had to be cut off, because I don’t have that ax and strength, and besides, picking out spoiled pieces of meat from them would be too dreary.
It tasted like regular Russian beef. This is not Australia, not England, not Spain and the list goes on. But the meat was very tender. It's true. For the purity of the experience, I should have tasted this meat before ripening. But…….good thought comes after.

First, I cut off two small pieces and fried them. Sorry, the degree of roasting was absolute. I don’t know why, I didn’t have the courage to eat this meat with blood, or even medium roast. Here is the Australian meat that has already set you on edge, eat it, but our native could not.

The remaining piece I marinated in olive oil, soy sauce with chili flakes, ibmir and coriander. Again, with a good ribeye, I would not do this, so as not to clog its amazing taste, which no longer requires any words or actions. And there was nothing to score here, rather, there was something to embellish. When my unsuspecting husband came home, I "burned" the heated room temperature grilled meat in a frying pan on all sides, and in it she sent it to an oven preheated to 160 º C. Bake until completely cooked through. Why, read above.

What do you say? We had a good dinner with this very meat, a salad of juicy and sweet tomatoes with red onions, pickles with pimples, cilantro and goat feta. Washed down with dry red wine. But, this is not the same Australian meat from which you want to live up to 100 years and eat only it.

So don't expect miracles. I was also warned about this by a wonderful girl Rita, who has amazing interesting magazine. So Rita often ages meat.

Yesterday I sent her a personal email. I think our letters to each other will help you further clarify the picture. Rita does not consider herself a specialist, but she has much more experience than I do. And therefore I advise you to listen to it.

The most informal part of the post

Me: Rita, hi!
It's me again with my cows))
I finally got to the meat and its aging.
She did, and then reread our correspondence. I realized that I made several mistakes. I didn't put the meat on the grill. Changed gauze once a day.
I bought a thick edge weighing 2 kg.
And everything would be fine, but the meat on top all the time remained moist, a little slimy, it smelled normal. Today cut off, inside everything is beautiful. Fine. Even ate two pieces, still alive.
What do you think about this topic?
I have already ordered an Australian entrecote, I will try again, this time with a grill.
Can I send you a couple of pictures, tell me if I will live?
Now I will bake the remaining piece in the oven.

Rita: hello :)
Olya, you ask me like that, as if I were a major specialist. And I've never written anything like that about myself. So, sometimes I stand meat. We also have meat that is completely unsuitable for such manipulations with it. And personally, if I had the opportunity, I would buy seasoned and not bathe.
If the meat is from an animal of a special breed and fattening, then at 0-(+4) Celsius it will remain dry. And if standard fattening, then yes, it will be wet. And in such cases, I not only change the gauze once a day, but for the first 3-5 days I constantly watch the meat, wipe it dry and change the gauze 4.5 times a day. At first, the meat can be left without gauze for a while, so that it dries up and forms a crust. But don't overuse it. And when a crust has already formed on the meat, then you can change the gauze less often, after about a week you can even once a day.
Judging by your photos, you figured everything out well without help :)
And with Australian beef, I think it will be even easier.

Me: Rita, thanks for the reply! I would buy it too if it was on sale.
This was clearly my mistake (about gauze 5 times a day), and I forgot about the grate.
Mine was wet, you can't see it in the photo. And it scared me. Although the gauze itself, when I took it off, was almost dry. But we ate until everything is OK)) The taste was not impressive. But it was soft, yes.
And about breeds and fattening - these are your observations, or did you read where?
And another question: can a piece of 2 kg be dried, or should a piece be larger?
You may not be an expert, but I no longer found people in our livejournal doing this on a regular basis. So your help is invaluable to me!

Rita:
You just need to keep an eye on the meat, not to let it get wet at all, and it is desirable that the room is ventilated, and the temperature is appropriate, and in the refrigerator it is not only difficult, but troublesome to follow this. So I say that you need to rush with him like a fool with a mortar. This is the whole secret. Therefore, it is better to engage in aging in the fall, when it is possible to take the meat into the barn or onto the balcony. Well, as a result, ripe meat, which is not suitable for steaks a priori, by its nature. And the taste, of course, is not the same.
And my observations. But this is also intuitive. Meat of special fattening has a specific structure, it contains numerous fatty inclusions. And fat, it kind of "melts", and not "gets wet". As a result, a piece of meat with such a structure does not become wet, but floats with fat. It will quickly form a crust. And for such meat, compliance with the temperature regime and sufficient air circulation are more important than humidity parameters. This is if on the fingers :)
A piece, of course, would be nice if there was more. Then you will lose less when trimming.
You can just count. How much steaks do you want and how much do you want them to weigh, plus 15-20 percent for shrinkage and trimming.

Results

This concludes my saga, but temporarily. Because I will continue my experiments. You understand that you can age Russian meat, imported meat, various pieces of it, different amount days. Only experience can lead to perfection. And so that you do not get bored, I will tell you about my experiences. The next to go is meat from……..yes, yes, Australia!
But the story of this is not earlier than in a month.

Yes, I'm leaving now. Let me just summarize:

Domestic meat can and should be ripened. Initially, it does not have a special aroma and brightness of taste, it is often hard. After aging, the meat will definitely become soft. But hardly fragrant. That's the kind of beef we have. Alas and ah, it is not suitable for steaks. But just a very good fried or baked meat is guaranteed to you. But this is of course, if initially it is of digestible quality. Better yet, go to the market, to the butcher, who can be at least somewhat trusted.

P.S. By the way, I have experience in purchasing Russian aged meat. Kind of like a farmer's. Allegedly, even Angus grown in domestic open spaces. The sheepskin was not worth the candle. The meat was absolutely normal. Albeit soft.

P.S. Thank you very much for your help.

More and more often, the ending “aged” in the names of steaks appears on the menu of restaurants, in butcher shops they offer special aged meat, and housewives buy vacuum devices for its special storage. Such a hype around aged meat arose for a reason, because it has rich taste and aroma. But has such an unusual technology emerged just now?

Ripening (aging) of meat has been around for a very, very long time. For many years it was customary to store meat in a dark cool place, since the whole carcass of an animal could not be eaten at one time. With each day of storage, the meat was aged, became softer and more aromatic.

In the 17th century, paintings by famous artists such as Rembrandt, Jacob Leysens and others appeared, depicting stretched animal carcasses. This is how their contemporaries stored the meat: first, the skin was removed from the carcass, then the carcass was stretched on wooden beams and placed in a dark room, where the meat was stored to avoid spoilage and aged in the process. At the same time, there was a high risk of meat rotting due to natural temperature changes. This method can be considered the progenitor of modern dry age technology.

Nowadays, thanks to modern technologies, you can get the most delicious aged meat without special efforts, and the risk of decay during exposure is reduced to zero.

Why is endurance needed?

Aging or maturation of meat is an integral part general training meat for consumption. Neglecting this process, we can get tough dry meat, which will not be distinguished by good taste and richness of aroma.

The scientific name for meat aging is autolysis. In the process of autolysis, spontaneous chemical processes occur in the meat, leading to a change in the physical and chemical properties product:

meat strength;
water-retaining abilities;
taste, color, aroma;
resistance to microbiological processes.

The whole process of autolysis can be divided into several stages, which smoothly flow into one another:

fresh meat;
rigor;
rigor resolution or, directly maturation.

Fresh meat

This is the meat within 4 hours after slaughter. At this time, the product has a soft texture and high water-holding capacity. However, the taste and aroma are not expressed at all. The pH of normal fresh meat is 7.2. But it is important to consider that the meat is not homogeneous, so the autolysis process in different parts carcasses can take place in completely different ways. Basically, it depends on the temperature of meat storage, the conditions for slaughtering the carcass, and the conditions for keeping animals.

Rigor

The next step is rigor. It occurs approximately 3-4 hours after slaughter, and lasts up to 24-28 hours at a temperature of 0°-4° C. At this stage, the meat is characterized by increased rigidity, low water-holding capacity, and low acidity pH at 5.5. At this stage, the taste and aromatic properties of the meat are reduced and give it a sour taste.

However, rigor has its advantages:

increasing resistance to the development of putrefactive microorganisms;
swelling of collagen in connective tissue (improvement of meat structure).

After complete rigor, the process of maturation of meat begins. best conditions, at which the meat acquires high gastronomic indicators, it is considered to be 25-30 days of exposure at a temperature of 0 ° - 4 ° C. However, even before the expiration of this period, the meat can be used: the rigidity is noticeably reduced by 5-7 days of exposure, the taste properties are significantly improved by 10-15 day.

It is important to remember that high performance can only be achieved if proper cultivation and animal feeding. When deviating from existing norms, the above processes can proceed completely differently and have unpredictable results.

Diversity you don't know about

Over the years, formed various ways meat maturation. Initially, they were used only to preserve the product in a quality suitable for consumption. Nowadays, many types of meat aging seem exotic, which is why they are successful in haute cuisine around the world. Below are some of them.

Aqua maturation

The name speaks for itself: the meat is aged in mineral water, in which the composition of minerals must be controlled to avoid changes in taste. The method is quite laborious, which is why it is not popular, but the meat is tender and juicy.

Hautgout

French for "high taste". Meat aged in this way, in fur or feathers, acquired a sweet tart taste due to the initial stage of decomposition. protein product. Game aged in this way has been a success in the kitchens of France since the beginning of the 18th century, however, due to specific hygienic features, this method of meat aging is not currently used.

Aging meat in parchment

This method is an improved method of wet aging of meat. Before vacuuming, the meat is wrapped in parchment paper, which further helps to remove excess meat juice. Thanks to this, the meat does not acquire a metallic-sour taste, which is characteristic of wet aging.

Dry mold aging

In this case, the meat is inoculated with fungal bacteria that form a crust of mold. Thanks to this maturation, the meat gets a nutty aroma, rich taste and delicate structure. Mold is not eaten, therefore, before cooking meat, the crust must be cut off

Aging meat in fat

This method has been known for hundreds of years due to its simplicity and efficiency. The meat is covered with a lot beef fat, due to which it can be stored quite for a long time and develop a delicate texture.

The above methods are currently not widely used. Meat producers and restaurateurs use simple and effective ways such as wet aging and dry aging.

The meat is packed in a vacuum, after which it is placed in a refrigerator and kept at a temperature of 1°-3°C. Thanks to the vacuum bag, the juice secreted by the meat does not disappear, which means that the steak remains juicy. After 10-14 days, the meat becomes soft and tender, while there are practically no mass losses. In addition, steaks in vacuum bags are easy to transport and store.

Despite the simplicity this method exist and negative sides wet maturation:

taste and aroma change slightly
in the presence of excess meat juice, the meat may acquire a metallic-sour taste
lower water-holding capacity than, for example, dry-aged meat (because there is less collagen production)

As a result, soft and tender meat is obtained, otherwise the gastronomic properties of meat practically do not improve.

Currently, there are special Lava vacuum bags with a membrane valve.
During the aging process, excess moisture comes out through the membrane envelope, which improves the gastronomic properties of the meat. With LAVA bags it is convenient to keep the meat at home, but it is advisable to use meat without sharp bones, as they can deform the bag.

dry aging

Dry aging of meat (or dry aging) is one of the oldest meat processing techniques. Unlike wet aging, enzymes are more active, due to which the product is especially tasty and aromatic. With dry exposure, the meat is located in special chambers, in which the following conditions must be met:

humidity level 65-85%;
temperature 1°- 4° С;
provision of ventilation;
providing sterilization of incoming air.

During the whole process, the enzymes present in the meat activate chemical processes that break down muscle fibers, making the product more tender, forming a flavor "bouquet" and rich aroma, while temperature and humidity inhibit the development of bacteria and mold.

Special attention should be paid to the selection and preparation of meat:

first of all, it is better to take meat after 20-30 hours from the moment of slaughtering the animal only from trusted farmers / companies;
it is irrational to subject individual pieces of steak to dry aging, the piece will simply dry out, losing its appearance and taste. For dry aging, it is recommended to take large raw* cuts on the bone with an even distribution of fat;
it is important to position the meat so that the pieces come into contact with any surfaces as little as possible (if possible, it is better to hang them on hooks) and be fully ventilated to prevent the development of fungus and mold;
it is important to use specialized equipment and avoid sudden changes in humidity and temperature levels, for uniform and high-quality ripening.

As a result, after 3-4 weeks, the meat acquires indescribable gastronomic qualities and a delicate texture that will delight even true gourmets.

________________________________________________________

* Uncleaned cut - a cut that has retained its layer subcutaneous fat, which allows to maintain the volume of net yield of meat after aging, and also contributes to a high level of moisture retention.

DRY AGER breaks stereotypes

It may seem to many that meat aging is laborious and technologically complex process. DRY AGER proved the opposite by presenting to the world a line of equipment and accessories for dry meat maturation.

Even well-prepared home steak in terms of richness of taste and juiciness, it loses to meat from steakhouses that has undergone the “dry ripening” procedure. So is it possible to reproduce this process at home?

dry aging technology

In dry aging technology, large cuts of meat are stored in an insulated, well-ventilated area for three weeks to four months. During this time, almost 30% of moisture evaporates from the meat. The upper layers dry out most of all, which are simply cut off, and a piece of meat can lose up to 50% of the mass. Under the influence of its own enzymes and bacteria, the meat fibers soften, it becomes more tender, the taste is rich, and the aroma is deep.

Experiment

But is " dry maturation» the prerogative of only professionals or can steaks be "aged" at home?

To answer this question, an experiment was conducted with six sliced and pre-frozen steaks from one batch. Following numerous recipes for home "ripening" of meat, steaks were ripened in conventional refrigerator. They were taken in turn from freezer, thawed, wrapped in several layers of gauze (or paper towels) and sent to the refrigerator, where they spent 9, 7, 5, 2 and 1 days.

9 days after the start of the experiment, all the steaks were taken out of the refrigerator and compared. The difference in weight was negligible, with the longest steak losing 7% and the one-day steak losing 3%. At the same time, due to the evaporation of moisture, the more “aged” pieces have become thinner, their crust is denser, and the color is brighter.

Cooking

Not all steaks were allowed to the cooking stage: the piece that had lain in the refrigerator for 9 days simply deteriorated. One fresh steak was added to the remaining 4 steaks. All pieces of meat are fried in a pan. The difference in roasting seven-, five-, two-, one-day and freshly thawed steaks was reduced to the fact that the fresh steak browned worse than the others due to an excess of moisture. The final weighing after frying gave an even more interesting result: all the steaks began to weigh the same, that is, the excess moisture from the less aged steaks simply evaporated during the cooking process.

Tasting

The tasting of cooked steaks showed that there is also no significant difference between at least a little aged and fresh steak. The main difference was that the pieces that “ripened” for more than 5 days were tougher and acquired a specific (but not at all typical for “dry ripening”) musty aftertaste, having absorbed all the smells of the refrigerator at the same time. Such characteristics do not speak in favor of home "dry ripening".

Outcome

It is impossible to achieve the effect of properly ripened meat in your own refrigerator using the “dry ripening” technology. There is not enough ventilation in the refrigerator, the meat absorbs all foreign odors, including the smell of the refrigerator itself. But to give the meat a little "ripen" is still worth it. It is better to use larger pieces, given the future cutting of dried crusts. In a couple of days, the meat will not have time to deteriorate, but it will lose excess moisture and will be perfectly browned when roasted. However, as practice has shown, 8-12 hours may well be enough for this.

The recently brought up topic of trying to cook beef properly, as it should be on close examination, revealed additional nuances.

Many, like me, have probably heard something and somewhere about the ripening and aging of meat, but as it turned out, no one has a more or less complete understanding. On the Internet, by the way, there is also very little information, as it were.

Photo courtesy of turkeston

I don’t know why, but when it comes to aging or maturing meat, it usually means beef, especially since in English this is called the phrase “beef aging”, i.e. in translation - aging beef.

Meat autolysis
But it turns out, to be precise, from a scientific point of view, the processes occurring in the meat after the slaughter of an animal are called autolytic, and scientists study the autolysis of meat.

Autolysis - (from Auto... and Greek lýsis decomposition, decay), self-digestion of tissues of animals, plants and microorganisms.)

From what I was able to learn, one can unequivocally conclude that these processes are very complex and, apparently, have not yet been studied with absolute accuracy. Therefore, I did not focus on chemistry, but focused on more understandable, applied nuances. When you first look at autolysis, it becomes clear that it applies to absolutely any meat, even fish, and not just beef. Therefore, it is somewhat incorrect to speak only about the maturation of beef.

Autolysis of any meat is characterized by at least 3 main stages.

Steam meat. This meat is immediately after the slaughter of the animal. It is soft, elastic, characterized by good moisture content and moisture retention. True, as experts say, it has a less pronounced aroma and taste. Although mild when cooked. Shepherds told me that there is nothing better than barbecue from steam lamb, no one marinates it, it is fried only by sprinkling with salt and pepper, stringing on skewers while still warm. But fresh meat is not so long.

Depending on the type of animal, ambient temperature and other factors, after a while the meat enters the rigor mortis phase.
On average, it is believed that for rabbits and birds, rigor mortis at normal temperature occurs after 30 minutes, and at 0 0 C, it takes a little more time, about 4-6 hours. Cattle enter rigor mortis somewhat later, taking 10 to 24 hours to complete, depending on the temperature, size of the animals, nature of the food and living conditions, and even their mental state and other factors. It should be noted that stiffness of meat does not occur quite evenly in parts of the carcass.

Meat in a state of rigor mortis is the most uninteresting. It sharply increases rigidity and elasticity. Scientific evidence shows that shear stress and modulus of elasticity increase by as much as two times. For some reason, acidity, the so-called Ph, goes to the acid side, from 7 units to 5.5. Other changes are also observed. It is clear that the preparation of such meat will not give good results.
Analyzing current trends, we can conclude that very often we just eat meat in a state of rigor mortis or close to it. For example, a bull was slaughtered yesterday, and today they brought it to the market. And we just bought it today, in a day or even 12 hours, at the most "suitable" moment for rigor mortis, and ran to cook it.

But, thank God, after the onset of rigor mortis, the meat enters the next phase, the so-called resolution of rigor mortis or the maturation stage. This is where all the fun begins.

Meat maturation

Due to autolytic processes, meat undergoes metamorphoses, it becomes softer even than fresh meat, shear stress and modulus of elasticity from 100 units (fresh meat) decrease to almost 60, in addition, experts testify to positive changes in other organoleptic characteristics. In a word, the meat becomes simply magnificent.

But with the maturation of meat, everything is far from simple. Until now, there are no uniform criteria for assessing the degree of maturation. There is also no single recommended technology. Meanwhile, holding temperature and time are very important conditions. And also there are related problems, this is the development of microorganisms and the subsequent tendency of meat to spoilage, as well as the loss of moisture in the meat, the so-called shrinkage.

The higher the holding temperature, the faster the maturation occurs, but the higher the likelihood of meat spoilage, and accordingly the requirements for maintaining sterility increase. The lower the holding temperature, the longer it takes to mature, but the meat is less prone to spoilage.

It is worth noting that after a certain stage of maturation, the characteristics of the meat cease to change and further aging becomes meaningless, moreover, the meat enters the stage of deep autolysis, in simple terms, it begins to actively decompose with the release of certain odors, mucus, and so on.

In the old days, butchers were guided only by their sense of smell and tactile sensations. Apparently, they are guided by this even now, only by adding a little science.

There are several approaches to the maturation of meat.

Ancient methods prescribed keeping meat at temperatures close to 0 0 C, at a humidity of about 85% to reduce shrinkage, as well as with high ventilation of the premises to prevent the active development of microorganisms. It was recommended to constantly wipe the meat or wrap it in constantly changing shrouds of plain fabric. This is the so-called "dry" method, "dry aging".
Shrinkage up to 25% of the original weight was considered normal. Whole carcasses or rather large parts of the carcass were subjected to such aging. During maturation, they usually dried on the outside, covered with a film, which had to be removed when preparing the meat for cooking. At the same time, special incisions could be made on some carcasses to improve ventilation to prevent premature spoilage. It is clear that in this way it is extremely difficult to ripen individual steaks. Since the aging process required additional costs and threatened to lose the weight of the carcass by almost a quarter, only the most elite varieties meat - well-fed carcasses of certain breeds, mainly Angus, specially fattened, with a lot of fat and marble streaks. In this way, the meat could be aged for more than 25 days, up to a month.

Modern approaches are less conservative. So, it was found that at a temperature of 37 0 C, the ripening of meat occurs in just 4-5 hours. Therefore, now at industrial plants, meat can be subjected to electrical stimulation, as well as exposure to high-frequency currents with heating up to 39-40 0 C. In addition, it can be saturated with special solutions that accelerate aging. And to prevent the development of microorganisms, ultraviolet irradiation can be used, which, if I'm not mistaken, is the norm, for example, for hospital operating rooms and other places requiring sterility.

There are also other industrial approaches, the most common is called "wet" maturation, "wet aging". The meaning of the method is that the meat ripens already cut into portions and enclosed in vacuum packaging. In this form, it is little susceptible to spoilage, which allows it to withstand the time required for ripening.

Although there is an opinion that technologies that minimize the shrinkage of meat during its ripening do not allow to achieve a truly rich taste.

However, even conservative methods are subject to revision, for example, in one of the studies it was shown that increasing the temperature of meat ripening to + 4 0 C can reduce the maximum aging period to 16 days. That allows you to reduce the level of costs.

As an approximate reference value, it can be considered that the full maturation of beef is:
- at a temperature of 1-2 0 С 10-14 days
- at a temperature of 10-15 0 С 4-5 days
- At a temperature of 18 0 С 3 days

As for pork, I did not find exact data on the time required for ripening, some sources suggest that this time is comparable to the time indicated for beef, others, on the contrary, state that pork does not need long exposure and it needs no more than a day.
Regarding lamb, I, guided by my own experience, albeit not rich, still tend to believe that some exposure improves its quality.
At first, I made a reservation about fish, for most varieties of fish, aging is contraindicated due to the high probability of active bacterial growth, which, as it turns out, fish is very prone to.

Home maturing of meat.

As a rule, it is not recommended to engage in the maturation of meat at home. Since it is necessary to be sure of the sterility of not only your kitchen, but also the process of slaughtering and cutting the carcass into pieces. In addition, no one will guarantee that your nose and eyes will not fail. However, I came across the recommendations of one butcher about home ripening meat.
uncut piece beef meat, preferably large with outer films, must be thoroughly washed and dried. Then place on the coldest shelf of the refrigerator, wrapped in linen, a piece must be wiped several times a day and the wrapper changed to a new one. The old one must be carefully washed off the blood and dried, after which it will become suitable for subsequent use. This process continues for 16 days, after which you can cut into pieces and fry. If the meat is not eaten within 22 days, it is recommended to transfer it to the freezer and store it for no more than two months.

From myself, I’ll note, it’s probably permissible to ripen meat in the refrigerator, wrapping it in cling film, after thoroughly washing and drying it, some kind of vacuuming. By the way, I think that two weeks is even enough big piece can be eaten, and, as it were, the issue of freezing meat becomes less relevant.

It seems that everything, additions and clarifications from connoisseurs are not only desirable, but also probably mandatory.

Think you can easily do tender steaks with unique juiciness and impeccable taste? Even perfect beef is difficult to create a good dish. In online stores you can find any parts of grain and grass-fed meat. However, few people pay attention to beef aging. It is on this indicator that the taste and texture of your steak depends! What is the maturation and fermentation of meat, and why is it so difficult to prepare a gourmet dish from an ordinary fresh piece?

Meat that has lain down at a certain temperature and humidity for a certain number of days becomes richer in taste, more aromatic, perfectly softens during cooking and cooks quickly. Even the broth comes out clear and has an amazing smell, rather than boiled from fresh beef.

It is very easy to explain: chemical processes take place in the muscles that affect the structure of the piece, the structure of proteins. The meat is fermented. During aging, acidity increases, new substances are formed, which create that divine taste and the aroma of fried treats.

What happens to the cuts after the animal is slaughtered?

Meat is considered paired only for 2-3 hours. The fibers are elastic, the texture is delicate. It is this product that the Italians use to make Carpaccio! It is not sold in the markets, since a person will not physically have time to prepare it for sale in such a short time.

Rigor occurs throughout the day. The muscles remain elastic, but slightly shortened. Every hour the coefficient of rigidity increases, as well as the resistance at the cut, so it is undesirable to portion such meat. The pieces will come out uneven, the so-called "ladder".

Own ripening of beef occurs in 2-3 days. Blood no longer enters the muscles, so they do not receive oxygen, and all oxidative processes slow down. The amount of phosphoric and lactic acids increases, due to which rapid muscle contraction occurs. As a result, the water is partially removed (meat juice flows into the tray), and the collagen swells and loosens. At the same time, acids prevent the appearance of bad microorganisms.

deep autolysis. The number of acids is rapidly increasing (adenyl, inosine), and esters and aldehydes also appear. These substances depend on taste qualities finished dish, the appearance of specific aromas. The cut becomes softer, as it loses its elasticity; when pressed, the hole does not disappear. The product breaks up into fibers, but their longitudinal and transverse striation is preserved, which is important to pay attention to. The raw material acquires a dark red hue. The cut comes out even and beautiful, as the piece becomes dense throughout its thickness.

It is during the period of its own maturation and deep autolysis that it is necessary to create acceptable conditions for maturation. meat product. Otherwise, the raw material will simply deteriorate.

However, all chemical processes are different. If, due to the low qualification of the ringer, convulsions were observed in cattle, then autolysis will go faster, and the quality of the meat will deteriorate significantly. The speed of maturation depends on the health of the bull, as well as on its fatness, growing conditions, feeding, age. "Young" meat matures faster than the muscles of an adult animal. So that the product does not deteriorate during aging, it is worth making sure in advance of the quality of the raw materials that all sanitary standards were observed during slaughter and cutting.

Aging beef cut

Producers and cooks save raw materials for steak in different ways, strictly observing all technological processes. Let us dwell on the most basic types of maturation. It is important to take good piece meat. If the temperature regime was violated during storage and transportation, then it is better not to take risks and cook the beef immediately. You should not buy a product from the market, as you do not know how many buyers have touched this piece. It is best to order raw materials from a trusted butcher.

Wet maturation of beef (wet-aged)

Wet aging can be applied to any cut. Usually meat is taken without bone: Tenderloin, Chateaubriand (thick and thin edge, tenderloin). Chefs use this method for portion cuts, since the loss of moisture and weight of the product is minimal.

The meat is placed in Vacuum package and solder. The main thing is to pump out all the air in order to stop the oxidative processes. This can be done at home, but you should first disinfect the vacuum cleaner.

Sterility must be given special importance!

You can put a special pad or parchment in the bag, which will absorb the released meat juice. The product is placed in the refrigerator (1-3 degrees). The aging period is small, 3-10 days. It all depends on the characteristics of the meat, so it is advisable to view it every day. The piece should thicken a little, lose elasticity, be sure to darken, while the fat must remain white.

The steak, created from raw materials of wet aging, comes out juicy, tender and with a refined taste. In the process of ripening, juices are released, which provoke the appearance of lactic acid bacteria. It is they that give the meat a sour-metallic flavor, which gives an original touch to the overall flavor of the product. It can be removed if the meat is wrapped in special paper(laying).

Dry aging of meat (dry-aged)

Dry-aged cuts are incredibly valued and quite expensive.

The ripening technology is complex, so it is difficult to repeat it at home.

In order for the meat not to rot, the humidity and temperature in the chamber must be carefully controlled, and the product must be provided with good ventilation.

Otherwise, the pieces will have to be thrown away, as they will turn out to be toxic, hazardous to health.

Dry aging features:

It is advisable to take whole cuts, since this method is not suitable for portioned pieces: they will dry out completely.
The flesh must be protected by bones or fat. If this is not the case, you can grease the piece with beef lard, but this is done in extreme cases! A week later, the process must be repeated.
All metal fixtures (hooks and gratings) must be made of stainless steel and disinfected before use.
Cuts are hung or laid out on grates at a considerable distance from each other so that the piece is completely blown with air.
For dry exposure, special equipment is used (refrigerators with convection). Some models need to be connected to the water supply.
The optimum temperature for fermentation is 2-4 degrees, humidity - 72-76%.
You can eat only after 21 days, not earlier! On the 120th day of maturation, gourmets consider the product to be real gold.

In order for the meat to come out amazing in taste and without an unpleasant odor, it must be monitored with special care: periodically turn over and pay attention to the formation of a crust. It should appear gradually.

Attention!

If the drying process of the top layer is very slow, then the product will begin to rot from the inside.

If the crust resembles a shell (very dense and thick), then moisture will not be able to leave the deep layers of the product. This will provoke the development of harmful microorganisms, and the raw materials will again deteriorate.

What happens to meat for 120 days?

Number of days of exposure	What happens to meat	Product appearance
7	Collagen began to break down. The flesh has lost its elasticity, so the cut keeps its shape solely due to the bones.	The color does not change, it remains characteristic of a fresh piece.
21	The product lost about 10% of its weight due to moisture evaporation. Under the influence of acids, the proteins swelled and lost their solubility.	The piece darkened a little, a thin crust appeared, the flesh softened. The product is ready for sale.
30	Weight loss within 15%. Beneficial fungi begin to appear on the crust. Thanks to them, the product acquires interesting taste and smell.	A more pronounced aroma appeared, the meat itself became especially soft and tender. This cut is highly valued among steak lovers.
45	It is advisable to withstand meat with increased marbling: during cooking, the loss of moisture will be compensated by fat, so the steak will come out quite juicy. The aroma and taste become more intense.	The crust is quite dense, the color has become darker, a specific meat flavor. Be careful: bad smell talking about spoiled meat!
90	Together with the liquid, the salt evaporates from the fibers.	The crust has thickened significantly, more like a shell. Grains of salt appeared on the surface. The cut darkened significantly, decreased in weight.
120	In the process of chemical reactions, the muscles were severely destroyed.	A specific flavor has appeared that may not be to everyone's taste, as is the case with blue cheese Dor Blue or Garibaldi. The piece is completely covered in salt. Only real connoisseurs of steaks can appreciate such meat!

Here is how the cuts change visually:

When the meat is ready, it is necessary to cut off the crust (until the reddish flesh appears), wrap it in a cotton towel and store in the refrigerator for 3 days. Can be frozen if needed experienced chefs do not recommend doing this, as the taste of the dish noticeably deteriorates.

What is the difference between dry aged and wet aged cuts?

Both methods of meat ripening differ in many respects.

Since the technology of wet aging is low-cost, does not require special equipment, then it is actually used by 90% of companies that deliver meat around the world.

Meat ripening method	Percentage of weight loss	Appearance	Taste qualities	Price
Wet	Up to 5%	The meat is juicy, elastic, dark red, slightly brownish.	Delicate taste and light meat aroma	Cheaper than dry-aged meat
Dry	Up to 40% (significant moisture loss, crust removal)	The meat is dryish (the juiciness of the cooked steak depends on the degree of marbling). Dark red color, delicate texture. There may be grains of salt on the surface.	Intense aftertaste with specific notes, very pronounced aroma	The price depends on the duration of maturation. The most expensive is 120 days.

Aged beef cuts at home

Usually aged Teebone or Striploin cooks get in specialized firms. We have a wonderful article. Often they put on maturation on their own: the restaurant management buys the necessary equipment.

At home, you can also prepare meat for steaks. The wet method does not require special device and tight controls, so it's easy to replicate at home. Dry aging requires proper knowledge and strict control of temperature and humidity. How to prepare a cut for frying so as not to throw away an expensive product in a week?

Methods for dry aging meat in a conventional refrigerator

Method number 1. Place a piece of cotton fabric or gauze on the grate. Load a cut on it, and cover it with a cloth on top. Change the matter every day until the raw material stops sapping. Meat must be turned over with clean hands only! A slightly dried product can be sprinkled with salt and wrapped again in a cloth. So it's easy to endure portioned pieces, which are ready for cooking already for 3-4 days.

Method number 2. Wrap the beef in a waffle towel. Place salt nearby to draw out moisture. Carry out similar manipulations, as prescribed in method No. 1.

Method number 3. Wrap the meat in a cloth, place in wooden box with lid. The box must have holes around the perimeter for air circulation! Change the material every day. When the raw materials stop emitting juice, pour into the bottom of the box coarse salt, 1 cm high. Change fabric after 3 days. Weight loss with this method is about 11%.

Method number 4. Purchase a special package for dry maturation. It consists of a membrane that protects the product from external influences, but allows vapor and moisture to pass through. The meat is aged for about 3-4 weeks. A crust must certainly appear, which must be cut off. The main thing is to remove all the bones from the cut.

Method number 5. Hang the product by the hook or place it on a special stand. Install a fan that can be powered by a refrigerator light bulb. Be sure to install a fuse and a power button so that the device works with the door closed. It is undesirable to install a device on a battery, as it can deteriorate from low temperature and humidity. And battery components (lithium and sodium) can make products toxic.

Features of dry ripening in the home kitchen

Make sure that the meat is of high quality, and the cutting technology and transportation conditions have not been violated by the manufacturer. Of course, you need to order products from trusted suppliers.

Meat quickly absorbs odors, so you need to allocate not a separate shelf, but an entire refrigerator. To do this, you can buy small chambers, using them only for maturation.

The following conditions must be met:

The meat must be blown from all sides, so a molded glass or plastic shelf will not work, it is better to use a grill.
Before using the refrigerator, it is advisable to disinfect everything in order to remove harmful microorganisms.
The temperature in the refrigerator should be +2 (at +5 the beef starts to deteriorate).
Ripening time depends on the size of the piece. So a cut for 10 kg will be ready in a month, for 8 kg - in 3 weeks.

Other methods of aging beef cuts

Besides dry and wet aging, there are several other ways, but it is difficult to create at home. the necessary conditions. Those who like to experiment should not forget that spoiled meat products can provoke serious diseases!

Unpopular methods of ripening meat products:

In mineral water or aqua aging. It is important to control the amount of sulfates and sodium: due to their excess, bitterness may appear in the meat. In order for the raw material to acquire the original flavor range, you need a high content of magnesium with calcium and bicarbonates.
The Hautgoût technology (French for "high taste") is more applied to game. The meat is kept in fur or feathers. The product comes out exquisite in taste, with tart-sweet notes. Of course, now the sanitary epidemiological authorities do not allow the use of this method.
Dry moldy. Useful fungal cultures are planted on the cut. As a result, the product is covered with mold, which is cut off before cooking. Meat is valued for its peculiar nutty smell. However, in Germany this method is prohibited by law.
Ripening cuts in fat is an ancient method of improving meat. The piece is covered with a thick layer of lard, of course, only beef. As a result, the fibers soften, the natural elasticity of the pulp is lost. Air does not pass through fat layer, therefore, all chemical processes take place in the product, as in normal aging. In addition, the access of bad bacteria is closed.

Of course, one should not take the word of each manufacturer of meat products. It is advisable to check the quality of the goods and stipulate the terms of the return in advance. Why is it worth playing it safe before buying? You can fry a steak with a full range of harmful chemicals...

I suggest watching a story about the differences between ordinary meat and fermented meat:

How do unscrupulous producers speed up the ripening process?

Buying aged beef pay attention to aroma, color, cut tension and top of the pulp.

Attention!

Cuts are only ready for sale in 21 days, but some producers cannot wait that long.

To speed up chemical processes, they go to tricks.

How to reduce maturation time?

raise the temperature (+10 or +20), and so that the cut does not disappear, it is chipped with antibiotics or ultraviolet radiation is used;
introduce mineral supplements (usually calcium, magnesium);
use enzyme preparations of vegetable or microbial origin(papain, mushroom amylase);
the most used method is electrical stimulation, when electrodes are applied to different parts of the carcass and current is applied;
soak or pump into the pulp with a syringe special brines in which lactic acid bacteria are located;
under pressure to introduce air, water, gases into the muscles.

Some methods look completely harmless, only they significantly impair the quality of the meat. After cooking, it can significantly decrease in size, it will turn out not so fragrant, with bad aftertaste and terrible taste.

If you decide not to mess with bad producers, but to create an excellent piece of meat for fragrant steak, you should be aware of the signs of spoilage of the meat product.

How do you know if meat has gone bad?

If you violate the temperature regime and the recommended humidity in the refrigerator, then bad microorganisms will begin to develop in the cut. Such meat can be very dangerous, not to mention culinary value! Of course, in order for the product to ripen well and not deteriorate, certain processes must take place in it. However, it does not always contain the necessary substances for autolysis.

What causes can disrupt natural chemical reactions during fermentation:

the animal was constantly sick, was exhausted, was constantly in a state of stress;
the bull did not receive a balanced diet;
poor bleeding of the carcass;
cutting of cuts took place in unsanitary conditions;
contamination of the product with the contents of the stomach of bulls;
during transportation, bad microorganisms got on the meat;
muscle integrity was compromised.

Naturally, if the product is kept at a temperature of more than +5 degrees, then spoilage of beef is inevitable. High humidity and the presence of oxygen will accelerate the appearance of putrefactive bacteria.

Experienced chefs believe that meat should initially be free of bad microorganisms, and refrigeration equipment for product maturation should be thoroughly disinfected.

Do not forget that various bacteria can spread throughout the raw material, so you should carefully monitor each piece. It is necessary to pay attention to the color, smell and presence of liquid, that is, meat juice.

The main signs of spoilage of cuts

The appearance of mucus. In case of improper storage, various bacteria and yeast are formed on the cuts. As a result, a piece of meat is covered with a sticky substance. Unfortunately, even with the right temperature regime and optimal humidity, unpleasant mucus may appear already on the second day of storage. The reason is banal: a lot of microbial cells initially got on the surface of the piece.

A tan. The color of the meat becomes grayish, brownish, with a green coating. Muscles become loose, and the smell is suffocatingly sour with a hint of sulfur. It appears already in the first hours after slaughter, when the storage technology of the product is violated. If fresh meat is wrapped in a film or put into a bowl and be sure to close the lid, then it can become steamed. Necessary processes are slowed down because there is no ventilation. The breakdown of glycogen begins, and the resulting acidic substances give the raw material a very unpleasant odor. The product can be used for cooking only in one case: if, after washing and airing the finely chopped pieces, the odor is completely gone. Green plaque must be cleaned, but if it reappears, it is advisable to dispose of the product.

rotting. Various groups of bacteria can appear on the surface. Some remain in the upper layers, others go inward. In the latter case, the meat will seem good, but the bones and tendons will be completely spoiled. In sick animals, putrefactive microorganisms enter the blood long before slaughter, which delivers them to all muscles and organs. As a result, spoilage of cuts occurs throughout the thickness at the same time.

Do not think that a product with a slight smell can be washed and recycled. When the amino acid is destroyed, amines are released, which are considered quite toxic. Stale raw materials will be less dangerous than slightly spoiled ones. If the meat begins to decompose in the skin, then sulfur-containing substances are formed. In this case, the piece will smell like sulfur. Simultaneously with decay, fermentation of carbohydrates, oxidation of fats, etc. occur.

acid fermentation. The meat turns gray, often has a greenish tint. Carbohydrates begin to break down, organic acids appear, resulting in an unpleasant sour smell and taste. Fermentation often occurs in poorly bled meat and is considered the main type of spoilage in imported cuts.

Pigmentation. Pigment bacteria begin to multiply rapidly on the surface, so characteristic spots appear on the meat.

glow. Luminous bacteria can get on beef, which give the corresponding effect. They usually live in sea water, and get on meat during non-observance of the commodity neighborhood, for example, with fish. They do not cause chemical changes in the muscles, do not affect the taste or smell of cuts.

mold appears on frozen cuts. Fungi cause the breakdown of fats and proteins, reduce the amount of nitrogenous substances, so the product has a specific musty smell.

Knowing the causes and signs of spoilage of the meat product, you will be sure that a good piece of meat will end up on your table. I also recommend reading the article. If you decide to save money and start maturing beef cuts in your restaurant, it is better to use special equipment.

Cut maturation equipment

Establishments that specialize in elite meat offer a choice of cuts of their own "production".

The chilled product is delivered to the kitchen, and the chefs place it in the chambers of special refrigerators.

Of course, there is a technique of small volumes, where only 4-6 cuts can fit.

It is easy to install right in your home kitchen.

The main thing is that it meets all the requirements.

What should be the refrigerator for ripening meat?

double door with UV protection;
all elements (lattices, hooks) are made of high-quality stainless steel;
temperature and humidity control systems;
good ventilation system with speed control;
adjustable legs;
bactericidal lamp.

When buying, you should pay attention to the volume of the chamber, the maximum allowable weight per shelf. There are many models that need to be connected to the water supply. It is worth paying attention to the place where you plan to install the equipment. It is undesirable to place it near the window and heating appliances. The floor must be level. Distance from the wall at least 5 cm.

Now you know that you need to select well-fermented and matured beef with great care. Then the steak will gourmet dish which will give you a lot of positive emotions and taste pleasure!