What was Soviet sausage made from? Sausage in the USSR

Soviet sausage. It can rightfully be called legendary. True, representatives of different generations have their own “legend” associated with this product. Now there are few people who remember the first GOST for sausage. It was introduced in 1936 by order of the People's Commissar Food Industry Anastas Mikoyan. He flew to Chicago specifically to get acquainted with the most advanced meat processing enterprises in the world at that time.

The composition of the first "Doctor's", for example, included beef premium without veins, bold pork shoulder, ice water, nitrite salt and table salt, whole cow's milk, sugar, egg, ground nutmeg, cardamom, black pepper.

GOST for this type of sausage remained unchanged until the 1970s. At that time, there was a shortage of meat in the country due to the decline in animal husbandry. Then it was officially allowed to add two percent starch to minced meat. None of the consumers even felt anything, but the meat savings across the country turned out to be impressive. In addition to starch, animal protein substitutes, the so-called caseinates, were also allowed.

This allowed not only to increase the production of sausages, but also to reduce their price. So, instead of two rubles and thirty kopecks, "Doctorskaya" began to cost ten kopecks less. But its taste, like other sausages, has changed. Now, according to GOST 1979, they could be made on the basis of buffalo or yak meat. The composition could include trimmed pork and veal, as well as trimmed single-grade goat meat and lamb (frozen meat was not forbidden); raw pork and beef fat, lard lateral and spinal; processed offal, egg melange, dried cream and flour of the first grade.

So, for 100 kilograms of "Amateur" sausage, 35 kilograms of trimmed first grade beef, 40 kilograms of trimmed low-fat pork, 25 kilograms of back fat were laid. As additives were: salt (2.5 kg), sodium nitrite - 5.6 g, sugar - 110 g, black pepper - 85 g, nutmeg or cardamom - 55 g, a mixture of spices - 250 g.

But not all sausages were so meaty. For example, GOST sausage "For breakfast" allowed its production from sodium caseinate, wheat flour, potato starch.

In boiled " beef sausage"In addition to beef itself, beef brains were added. "Moscow sausage" according to GOST 1986 consisted exclusively of trimmed beef and back fat. By the way, GOST 1986 did not differ much from GOST 1979. The list of spices was slightly expanded, which now included garlic .

GOSTs for semi-smoked and smoked sausages appeared in 1941. It was connected with the beginning of the war. They needed sausages that could be stored for a long time and would be satisfying. For their manufacture, trimmed beef or pork meat (chilled, defrosted (thawed) or frozen) was taken. added pork belly, pork fat, bacon or fatty pork trimmings, mutton fat, spices and certainly pure chemical saltpeter. During the war, this GOST changed several times. There was a period when it was possible to use powdered animal bones, tendons, and other not quite edible parts of animals.

After the 1990s, GOSTs were canceled. Technical specifications appeared. They are not accepted at the state level, they are developed by each enterprise separately. Therefore, among the many varieties and types of today's sausages, there are great amount those in which meat was not originally provided. soy products have long been replaced by natural meat, and necessary taste create flavors and emulsifiers.

We started to produce this sausage in 1936 year, adapted the sausage recipe and the technology for its manufacture by the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry, and for the first time carried out the production of the Moscow Meat Processing Plant named after. . Sausage was intended as a dietary (therapeutic) food for patients with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation (specifically, "... patients with poor health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism"). It is believed that due to the high popularity of the name "Doctor's" sausage has become the object of numerous imitations and fakes.

• Beef pulp - 250 gr.
• Pulp of bold pork - 700 gr.
• Natural milk - 200 gr.
• Egg - 1 pc.
• Sugar - 3 gr.
• Salt - 2 gr.
• Ground cardamom - 0.5 gr.

Minced meat preparation
Beef and pork meat must be passed through a meat grinder twice. The first time with a large mesh, the second with a small one. Add spices (cardamom, sugar, salt) to minced meat. Mix everything thoroughly. Add egg with milk. Minced beat with a blender. The result is a viscous mass. Don't worry about the color of the sausage. After all, you get a natural color (without dyes). We put the prepared mass in the refrigerator and keep it there for about an hour. If you want homemade doctor's sausage to have pink color, then you can add high quality vodka or cognac to the minced meat ( 2 tablespoons).

Preparation of sausage casings
Doctor's sausage requires careful preparation of the casing. At home, you can use both artificial and natural. It must be cut into pieces 25-30 see After that, rinse the shells with warm, slightly salted water and, on one side, tie their ends with cotton twine, stepping back from the edge 2 see A simpler option is to use a roasting sleeve with a width 30 cm.

Sausage stuffing
We fill our shells with minced meat. You can use a special device for this (for example, a meat grinder with the necessary nozzle) for stuffing sausages. Then we form sausages, tightly pressing the shell with our hands. After that, on the other hand, we tie the shell tightly. In conclusion, you need to carefully examine each sausage and, if large air bubbles gently pierce them with a thin needle.

Sausage cooking
In a saucepan, heat water to 95 degrees and place blanks in it. Doctor's sausage at home is cooked at a temperature 85-87 degrees throughout 50 minutes. The main thing to remember is that the water should never boil. . The final stage At this stage, the doctor's sausage after cooking is cooled immediately under running water(it will be enough to allocate just a few seconds for this process). Next, the sausage is cooled at room temperature, and after that in the refrigerator. Homemade doctor's sausage The storage conditions for such doctor's sausage are quite simple: the temperature should be 4-8 degrees, and as for the period, then you need to use it within 72 hours.

Now more and more often you will come across statements that in the period of the USSR it was either better, or tastier, or fresher. But I remember how my mother-in-law and I met after work in 1989 on Tverskaya, maybe it was then Gorky Street, and “combed” all the shops, where they “grabbed” cheese, milk, minced meat in queues - we had to feed two hungry men. On coupons - cigarettes, sugar. Sausage? I don't remember how or where I bought it. A couple of years earlier in 1987, I worked in one of the capital's editorial offices, and there was paradise: meat in the store for employees, and any sausage in the buffet and pickles on the table in the dining room. My friends ordered me to buy something for the table for celebrations. By the holidays in special stores, we were given a diverse full set - a couple of loaves of imported high-quality salami - servelat, always very fresh red, white fish, caviar, of course, and a bunch of cans, the existence of which the buyers of Soviet stores did not even suspect. It was a shame to receive these “trunks” of food on May 9th. When our veterans were given 10 times less and poorer. In the glorious Brezhnev, 1975 - in our house was grocery store, and I don’t remember that the shelves were empty - two or three types of boiled sausage - “doctor’s” - dietary, “amateur” with fat, veal - (sometimes) with delicious fat - were definitely on sale, and boiled-smoked - “Armavir ” and “Krakowskaya” were there. Not always, but very often. For the "Moscow", "Tallinn" - there were queues. However, they were always in the USSR. Mom was friends with the manager - dad with a butcher. Everything was. "From under the counter", as they used to say - almost everyone. But - this is Moscow. And in the summer , I went to my grandmother at sea for 3 months, and they sent me a large box of meat and sausages.In the Crimea, this was not there, or it was expensive on the market.From Saratov, my father's friends came to us, and in the house, before they left, it smelled like in the sausage department. Sausage trains left Moscow for other cities of the USSR. In my desktop “Book of Tasty and healthy food» - 1971 publications, 28 varieties of Soviet sausage are listed. There are such names that are not associated with anything in my memory - “chopped ham”, “glazed”, “puff”. But "Brunswick", "servelat", "delicacy", "Soviet" - stepped over from the USSR in our days. This helped me remember my favorite liver sausage, which was forbidden to me - they say "dogs only eat this." And it was delicious, like everything forbidden. Sausage in the USSR cost: 2.90, 2.20 - boiled, and 3, there, boiled-smoked with kopecks. In any case, the affordability of the price did not affect its quality in any way. They say that after the most powerful drought of 1972 and the loss of livestock, for the first time, changes were made to the GOST for Soviet sausage and ingredients began to be added that outweighed the meat content in it. Our friends in the Baltics had a house and their own household. So I tried it for the first time raw smoked sausage from home smokehouse, aged according to the European recipe - the Spanish "fuet" and did not lie next to it. The secret of the "tastiness" of sausage from the times of the USSR, as in the "psychotest" - is logical - a deficit, memories from the past are almost always tasty. And besides, for many decades sausage was prepared only from fresh meat- chilled. From what - now - it's scary to imagine. The future belongs to the small sausage factories of cooperators. Expensive but tasty.

"Doctor's" sausage for many years was one of the symbols of the well-being of the Soviet family. Queues lined up behind it, it was added to the Olivier salad, beloved by everyone, the recipe for hodgepodge was unthinkable without Doctor's, sandwiches with this sausage flaunted in obkom buffets. How did this truly legendary sausage variety come about?

Just what the doctor ordered

The exact date of the birth of the Doctor's sausage (GOST 23670) is well known. This is April 29, 1936, it was then that, by order of the people's commissar of the food industry, Anastas Mikoyan, its mass production began. The sausage recipe was developed by the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry, and differed reduced content fats despite the fact that the composition of the sausage included a lot of protein.

The reason for the start of production of such a product was a sharp deterioration in the health status of the country's population. After the abolition of the NEP policy and collectivization, a famine began in the country, which affected entire regions. Lack of food, starvation - all this led to outbreaks of various diseases.

In the early thirties, Anastas Mikoyan visited the United States, where he also visited Chicago meat processing plants. Returning to the USSR, Mikoyan initiated the creation of the First Moscow Sausage Factory, which now bears the name of Mikoyan. It was here that the production of sausages began, intended, as it was said in the documents of that time, for diet food people with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation - "... patients with undermined health as a result of the Civil War and royal despotism." The wording, of course, is somewhat crafty, but the sausage recipe is quite honest, containing only natural products of the highest quality.

In accordance with GOST, it was supposed to take 25 kilograms of beef for 100 kg of sausage highest quality, 70 kilograms of lean pork, 3 kilograms of fresh chicken eggs, 2 liters of milk, salt, sugar, nutmeg or cardamom. The shelf life of this sausage was 72 hours.

It turned out to be a great dietary product, very tasty, fragrant and healthy. Its task - to restore the strength of a person with poor health - this sausage performed remarkably. She was appointed as medical nutrition doctors, that's why she got the name "Doctor's".

Doctorate? No, "ham-chopped"

During the period of Soviet power, such an anecdote was walking in the academic environment. Two candidates of sciences meet, one drags a bag in which something heavy lies. "Doctoral?" his comrade asks respectfully, meaning, of course, scientific work. "No," chopped ham!

The anecdote quite accurately reflects the realities of that time. This sausage was not easy to find in stores, and it acquired the status of a scarce product. They struggled with the deficit in a simple Soviet way: by simplifying the recipe.

People of the older generation remember that back in the 70s, the old people grumbled, cutting into slices a loaf of sausage bought with great difficulty: “Is this the Doctor's? That used to be "Doctor's"! And this is nonsense, not sausage. And they were right because classic recipe dietary sausage, which remained unchanged until the end of the 50s, then began to degrade. The number of livestock in the USSR turned out to be not as large as we would like. In addition, pigs began to be fed with waste from the fishing industry, which is why the meat acquired bad smell and taste. Gradually, flour, melange instead of eggs were allowed to be added to the Doctor’s powdered milk instead of whole. By 1979, they also allowed pork skin, egg powder and starch. The loaf began to be wrapped in cellophane. By reputation loved by generations Soviet people product has been dealt the final blow. "Doctor's" sausage was equal in quality to other sausages that sometimes appeared in Soviet stores, such as "Tea", "Language" and the same one, "Ham-chopped".

Why Doctor's? Because I ate - and to the doctor!

Nowadays, GOSTs of the Soviet era have been safely forgotten. The Doctorskaya brand is exploited by all and sundry, producing sausages with a monstrous content of flavor and aroma enhancers, acidity regulators, antioxidants, stabilizers, emulsifiers and color fixatives. At the same time, many enterprises produce products on the basis of specifications - technical conditions that allow the production of a product without meat at all, based on soy and corragenes. Corragenes are called thickeners, imitators food products. It is a red powder seaweed. It is poured meat broth, mix and allow to harden. It turns out "almost real" minced meat. Nevertheless, even today there are enterprises that produce goods strictly in accordance with GOST. At the same time, it must be remembered that GOST 2011 allows the use of flour, starch, sodium nitrite in the Doctor's sausage recipe, and instead natural eggs and milk - dry substitutes.

The current "Doctor" is no longer the same dietary product, which was developed in 1936 for the Mikoyan enterprise. Therefore, apparently, a joke was born: “Why is the sausage called “Doctor's”? Because I ate - and to the doctor!

For me, like, probably, for many, sausage is associated with the taste of childhood. I remember how, after work, my mother brought a roll of paper from Doctor's - its aroma spread throughout the apartment. She did not stay in the refrigerator for a long time, they were killed that same evening. Ah, there was a time! "What's so special about this vaunted 2.20 sausage?" - the youth is surprised now, not having found Soviet era. Yes, nothing special, a mere trifle - they just made sausage from meat! ...

It is no secret to anyone that not a single product in Soviet society, especially, so to speak, in the late Soviet period, had such a social and cultural significance like sausage.

It was not just a product, but a kind of symbol of the Soviet system. A sign of well-being in the years of total scarcity, the reason and the most frequent reason for the nostalgia of several generations of emigrants, a full-fledged theme of various forms of folklore and even literary works.

We knew from childhood: our sausage is the most delicious! In a sense, Soviet sausage, the paradox of which consisted, firstly, in a strange discrepancy between cost and quality, when the second was much superior to the first, and secondly, in affordability and inaccessibility by ... the method of purchase, because behind the product itself, nothing for everyday use, I had to travel to other cities and stand in kilometer-long queues.

Cheap food was needed by hungry Russia in the 1930s. To carry out the instructions of the party and the government, Anastas Mikoyan went to Chicago - there was the most advanced sausage production at that time. Soviet officials looked at the local meat processing plant and ordered the exact same one for themselves. True, the recipe for sausage was already developed in Moscow.

rebirth Russian sausages took place when Soviet power was already firmly established in Russia. Namely, in April 1936, the people's commissar of the food industry, Anastas Mikoyan, signed an order on the production of new meat products: Doctor's, Amateur, Tea, Veal and Krakow sausages, Milk sausages and Hunting sausages.

Some of the recipes were developed anew, others restored from the old days. It is noteworthy that Doctor's sausage was specially created for "sick people with undermined health as a result of the Civil War and royal despotism."

Recipe for "corrections" public health”was verified to the smallest detail: 100 kg of sausage contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of bold pork, 3 kg of eggs and 2 kg cow's milk.

For 70 years, GOSTs for this sausage have changed, and more than once: both the war and the Soviet deficit affected. The first varieties of Soviet sausage differed in the quality of meat. In "Amateur" and "Doctor's" it was of the highest grade, and somewhere - the first and even the second.

In the same years, more than 20 large meat processing plants were built - in Moscow, Leningrad, Semipalatinsk, Engels, Dnepropetrovsk, Sverdlovsk and other cities, equipped with the most modern equipment for that time. After all, it was not in vain that A. Mikoyan went to get acquainted with sausage production in the USA!

During the war years, the total losses of the meat processing industry exceeded 1 billion rubles. Many meat processing plants were partially or completely destroyed. The resource base has also suffered. From the occupied territory of the USSR, the German army removed and slaughtered 17 million heads of cattle, 7 million horses, 20 million pigs, 27 million sheep and goats.

However, unprecedented measures were taken to preserve the livestock and provide the army and rear with meat products. Millions of heads of large and small cattle and horses were evacuated from the western territories.

In accordance with the requirements of wartime, the assortment was restructured towards the production of transportable products that are little susceptible to spoilage, such as corned beef, smoked meats and canned food, as well as semi-smoked and smoked sausages.

For the civilian population, many enterprises have established production bone broth And liver sausages. In the difficult war years, in the face of an acute shortage of raw materials, especially in besieged Leningrad, opportunities were sought to use all kinds of substitutes for meat raw materials, such as glycerin, albumin, gelatin, agar-agar, edible herbs and even the tops of garden crops.

When in January 1942 a flooded barge with peas was raised from the bottom of Ladoga, at a sausage factory in as soon as possible a technology was developed for the production of pea sausage with the addition of onions, cereals and flour. But this was only a forced concession to wartime. People worked for 12-14 hours, overfulfilling the plan and providing the army and the rear with food, and, of course, they won!

From the moment of "birth" and until the end of the 50s, the main recipe for "Doctor's" remained practically unchanged. In the 1960s, animal fattening experiments began. This affected the sausage: it began to smell like fish, then chickens, and sometimes even a chemical plant that produces fertilizers.

The post-war restoration of the destroyed economy was followed by the era of technical re-equipment of meat processing plants, which coincided with the deterioration of productivity and insufficient growth in the number of livestock. The Plenum of the Central Committee of the Party in 1965 named the earlier policy in the field of animal husbandry as the reason for the decline in the quality of animals.

During the Brezhnev era, meat production began to decline in the USSR. Scientists began developing technologies for combined meat products: soy protein, milk protein, so-called blood products, and even such “indigestible” things as sodium casenate appeared in the sausage.

To legitimize the presence in "Doctor's", and other "cardboard" sausages, new GOSTs have appeared that take into account all these additives. For example, a boiled sausage called "For Breakfast" officially consisted of sodium casenate, wheat flour and potato starch.

Insufficient funding of animal husbandry associated with the arms race and other problems in agriculture led to a shortage of raw materials for food production. However, it was not until the 1970s that the first changes appeared in the sausage recipe. As a result of an unprecedented drought in 1972, due to lack of feed, hundreds of thousands of cattle had to be put under the knife.

In 1974, for the first time, some concessions were introduced into GOSTs. IN chopped meat it was allowed to add up to 2% of starch or flour or animal protein substitutes - milk or blood. None of the sausage consumers could feel any change. And the unfinished 2% of meat in the country gave huge savings. In addition, cosenates (substitutes) in comparison with the price of a kilogram of beef cost mere pennies.

In a word, by allowing additives, in a way, we even took another step towards communism: we lowered the price per kilogram of Doktorskaya from 2.3 rubles. up to 2.2 rubles

However, temporary difficulties with raw materials proved to be permanent. There was such a thing as a deficit, when for sausages kilometer-long lines lined up, a Soviet phenomenon appeared - the so-called "sausage" electric trains (many still remember this joke: What is it? Long, green and smells of sausage? - Moscow electric train).

The state skillfully supported the demand for sausage by creating a mythical halo of mystery and legends, based primarily on original recipe cooking Soviet sausage. A planned economy that did not know marketing sometimes gave birth to real advertising masterpieces, as a result of which any sausage was simply swept away from the shelves.

So they said that the sausage "Member of the Politburo" would soon go on sale, on the cut of which Lenin's profile from the fat was visible. Or the Ostankinskaya sausage is made from the remains of the enemies of socialism. Although there were those who considered K. Simonov to be the author of her recipe. Remember, in the “Battle on the Ice”: “People, horses have already mixed up ...”

The deficit was replaced by a system of coupons for basic foodstuffs, then - a total deficit and, in the end, - the victory of market relations and the collapse of the Soviet Union.

It was then that the people poured from impoverished Russia to prosperous countries for a well-established life, for full counters, for good sausage. For domestic sausage began to be blamed for all sins - and toilet paper is allegedly added to it, and buttons / human nails / rat tails and other horrors are found in it, and in general they are made of who knows what.

And a stream of imported sausages poured into Russia. However, it turned out to be somewhat strange, unusual and even - scary to think - completely tasteless, in any case, our consumers expected more from it.

As it turned out, high tech allow the use of not the best raw materials in the sausage. Moreover, in the West, in general, even the first-class meat is not accepted for sausage, it is only for sale. Well, high-quality raw materials are not compatible with market relations! And it was precisely our sausages that foreigners highly appreciated, giving them their due when visiting the USSR.

And no wonder. After all, even the most popular and quite affordable boiled sausages Amateur and Doctoral consisted of meat, and the highest grade. That is, for 100 kg of boiled amateur sausage of the highest grade, 35 kg of premium trimmed beef, 40 kg of trimmed low-fat pork, and 25 kg of back fat were supposed to be.

Similarly, 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs and 2 kg of cow's milk went for 100 kg of Doktorskaya. Sausages with this composition were indeed unique in quality and nutritional value! Unless, of course, part of the raw materials did not go “to the left” ...

If you believe the statistics, until 1990 in the USSR there were more than 40 kg of sausage per person per year. It turns out a paradox! The Soviet Union, the world leader in sausage production per capita, never had it. Sometimes the aforementioned was instantly swept away from the shelves, sometimes the sellers were held back under the threat of dismissal.

And some time later, when the swoons at the full foreign counters ended, the concept of "sausage emigration" was replaced by the concept of "sausage nostalgia." And there were stories about how some of the former compatriots supposedly set up the production of “the very same” sausages according to “the very same” recipes. And they had, as it were, unprecedented success in the West, especially among former compatriots.

And those who still didn’t get such a sausage were taken by Russian relatives and friends from Russia with domestic sausages as a gift. However, that - from childhood - Soviet sausage could not be returned, both the taste and the price became different. Or were those who suffered from the tsarist regime already cured by that time, and sausage as a healing agent lost its relevance, and therefore disappeared?

However, not only emigrants, but also residents of Russia are nostalgic for the sausages of the Soviet era. And, as you know, it is Soviet brands that are bought most of all - Doctor's, Amateur, Krakow, Moscow and, of course, Servelat.

The affordability of sausages reflected both the idea of ​​equality and the secondary role of the peasantry, whose labor was so modestly paid. And cheap sausage made from high-quality meat disappeared simultaneously with the disappearance of the Soviet Union.

However, it has not completely disappeared. After all, a modern GOST for sausages has been developed, which maintains continuity with the former, Soviet one. And although there is no “same” sausage and cannot be, everything changes - raw materials, technologies, packaging, Soviet brands live and prosper. But today, in order to buy Amateur from Moscow, you do not have to go to other cities or queue at six in the morning.

Today, for most Russians, sausage is meat product number one, although it's more of an appetizer than a meal. "Doctor" and remains one of the most beloved and popular. Many enterprises produce sausage, and both according to GOST and TU - specifications developed by this company. Therefore, on the shelves you can often find several types of "Doctor's", and any other sausage, in different casings and at different prices.

Today, the technical conditions (TU) are approved not by the Council of Ministers of Russia, but by the enterprise itself, which operates on the principle: less meat- more substitutes. From the point of view of product quality, the most dashing time is considered to be the beginning of the 90s, when competition for sales markets was not for life, but for death. It happened that we ate sausage ... without sausage at all, that is, without meat! Manufacturers made a fat emulsion, added “taste” - and you're done.

On the great proletarian holidays, minced chicken was added to such a “sausage”. Today, the situation has not improved much - second-class sausages are 70% (!) Consist of soy and various chemical additives that have nothing to do with meat. Soy absorbs moisture very well, 5-6 liters of water are required for 1 kg of such powder.

We believe: if up to 10 kg of soybeans are used per 100 kg of a single sausage, then up to 60 liters of water go there. Here you have 70 kg out of 100 not meat at all! Also widely used is carrageenan, a vegetable protein derived from seaweed. It is very moisture-absorbing, when mixed with water already in the final product, it retains the density of the goods and its solidity well.

Soviet sausage will always be remembered with nostalgia. Grandparents - that in their youth it was real, made of meat. Their children - how difficult it was to get it in principle, and if it was possible - then the sandwich became a holiday. And how the coupons were redeemed. And today's youth is already used to coming to the store and choosing sausage according to their taste and wallet.