Rioja spain wine. The most famous Spanish Rioja in the world
D.O.K. Rioja
Undoubtedly, Rioja is the most famous wine region in Spain; moreover, for many people around the world, the word "Rioja" is synonymous with Spanish wine as such. This is recognized by the Spaniards themselves: despite the fact that the country produces many excellent original wines, only the Rioja region was awarded in 1991 the status of DOC (Denominacion de Origen Calificada), the highest category according to the classification adopted in Spain. Literally, it means "Deserved Designation of Origin".
Story
As in many other parts of Europe, the first mass planting of grapes in the territory of Rioja is the merit of the Romans. They also taught the locals the art of winemaking. The Romans exported the wines of Rioja to the capital of the empire. During the Middle Ages, monasteries, of which there were many in Rioja, acquire a particularly important role in the development of local winemaking. The monks, trying to improve the quality of wines, were able to make them popular and significant for the region as a whole. The first official document, designed to protect local winemakers and guarantee consumers the quality of their products, dates back to 1650. However, the wines of Rioja at that time were, despite all efforts, practically unknown outside their homeland.
World fame came to the wines of Rioja in the middle of the 19th century, and the phylloxera epidemic that swept the vineyards of France served as an incentive for this. Bordeaux winemakers were forced to look for alternative sources of resources. And in 1867 Rioja caught their attention. It is curious, by the way, that until that time most of the wines produced here were white; Bordeaux just proved that the red wines of Rioja can be truly excellent. They are beginning to be actively exported to France - a fact that previously could only be dreamed of. And in Rioja, a real wine "boom" begins. Rioja soon became one of the most promising and popular wine regions in the world. The phylloxera that came here later, of course, caused serious damage: in Rioja, about 70% of all vineyards were destroyed. But the name had already been “made”, there was no shortage of financial injections, as well as a lack of interest in Rioja among consumers (both in Spain itself and abroad, including in France). The region has not lost its positions.
In 1902, a Royal Decree was issued defining the "origin" of Rioja wines. Then, in 1926, a Regulatory Council (Consejo Regulador) was created here, designed to control the quality of products and protect them from all sorts of falsifications. It became the first body of its kind in Spain. However, it took many years before the Regulatory Council acquired official status: this happened in 1953. In the 1970s, another “revolution” took place here. As you know, in Francoist Spain, winemaking as a whole experienced not better times. Rioja was affected to a lesser extent, but, nevertheless ... In the 70s, the region was able to reach a new level. An extensive influx of investments ensured the modernization of production; the improvement in the quality of local wines has provoked a significant increase in interest in them around the world. The export of Rioja wines increased - and the region rightfully became the most famous among the wine-growing regions of Spain. In 1991, Rioja (again, the first among other regions) received the right to an exclusive status - DOC (or DOCa) - denominacion de origen calificada. As you know, other Spanish "wine" appellations controlled by origin are abbreviated DO. In the case of Rioja similar decision was inspired by the desire to emphasize the special position of the wine-growing region and give consumers an additional guarantee of quality.
Region features
Rioja is a relatively small region located in northern Spain and bordered by Castile-Leon, Aragon, Navarre and the Basque Country. Wherein most of its area is, in fact, on the territory of the autonomous region of La Rioja, but a number of vineyards fall on neighboring Navarre and the Basque Country. The northern border of Rioja is defined by the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range, the southern border by the Sierra de la Demanda. At the same time, the region itself is located in the valley of the Ebro River; it is also crossed by seven of its tributaries (from the name of one of them - Oja - the name "Rioja" came from), forming various secondary valleys, protected from cold winds, in which vineyards are located. In general, their area in Rioja today is about 59 thousand hectares.
It is not worth giving any unambiguous description of the soil and climatic conditions of the whole of Rioja: three zones are distinguished here, each of which has its own characteristics. These are Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa.
The northernmost zone is the Rioja Alta; the area of vineyards here is the largest (almost 25 thousand hectares). Rioja Alta is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean: summers are hot, there is little rainfall, but frosts occur in early spring. The soils are varied - limestone and clay are found here with the same frequency; there are also quite large alluvial areas. The wines produced in this area - powerful, full-bodied, with high acidity and medium alcohol content - have the greatest aging potential.
Rioja Alavesa is the smallest zone (a little more than 12 thousand hectares are given for vineyards); it is located on the northern bank of the Ebro River and, as it were, wedged into the Rioja Alta zone. The climate here is closer to the Mediterranean type (warmer than in Rioja Alta), the soils are predominantly calcareous. Both white and red wines born in Rioja Alavesa have an unusually fresh, clean and bright aroma. They are more often consumed young, but these wines are of excellent quality.
And finally, Rioja Baja - this zone occupies the southeastern part of the region. The climate here is Mediterranean, rather dry, subject to warm winds; temperature fluctuations and frosts are almost excluded. Soils are mostly alluvial. The area of vineyards in this zone is slightly less than 21 thousand hectares. The wines produced here are very extractive, have a pronounced fruity aroma and are characterized by high content alcohol.
Grape varieties and wines
Almost all vineyards in Rioja are very small - from 0.1 to 2 hectares. Those whose area is estimated in tens of hectares are already a rarity. So, for example, in the region there are only 10 plots with an area exceeding 30 hectares; while there is not one more than 100 hectares.
The pride of Spanish winemaking - the red variety Tempranillo - is the main one in Rioja. He possesses so characteristic and strong berry aroma that the wines produced on its basis are almost impossible to confuse with any others. Tempranillo gives the wine a bright color and is characterized by relatively low acidity; at the same time, it is not too rich in tannins, which, however, is compensated by blending with other varieties. Wines made from this grape are capable of long aging. Also of great importance in the region, especially in Rioja Baja, is Garnacha Tinta (in France this variety is called Grenache, or Grenache Noir). It is included in almost all blends. Garnacha Tinta gives the wine fullness and strength; it is often used in blends with Tempranillo. Also a frequent component of mixtures is the Graciano variety, which gives the wine freshness and finesse. The variety Mazuelo, also known as Carignan, imparts tannins and acidity to the drink. Three of the white varieties are cultivated in Rioja. The main one is Viura, known in other countries under the name Macabeo. It has been cultivated in Spain since time immemorial and it is believed that it is in Rioja that its qualities are fully revealed. This variety gives wines light and lively, characterized by high acidity. It is often blended with the very fragrant variety Malvasia, which gives the wine excellent aging potential. And finally, Garnacha Blanca (or Grenache Blanc, as it is called in France), produces wines of good quality, with a high alcohol content.
Under the Rioja DOC, dry wines are produced - red, white and rosé. Reds predominate (the production of whites and pinks is much less significant) - brightly colored, with a strong and fresh aroma. As a rule, their blend is dominated by Tempranillo. Rioja rosés also have a beautiful bright color and a pronounced bouquet (in the case of them, the Garnacha Tinta variety plays the most important role). White - graceful wines of pale straw color with greenish reflections, are created, respectively, on the basis of the Viura variety.
One of the main factors determining the quality of wine in Rioja has always been its aging. Wines age in oak barrels with a capacity of 225 liters for various periods of time, becoming increasingly complex and elegant. Depending on the aging period, the type of wine is determined.
Young Rioja wines are either not aged in oak barrels at all, or they are subjected to extremely short aging.
Crianza means aging in oak for at least 12 months; they go on sale in the third year after the harvest.
Reserva red wines must be aged for at least three years, of which at least one year in oak barrels.
White and rosé wines of this type are aged for six months in barrels and are sold in the third year after harvest.
And finally, the gran reserva wines - the real "stars" of Rioja, produced in the best years - age at least two years in barrels and three in bottles.
See the wines we offer from the Rioja region at.
Recorded by: Anna Kukulina
Joint project with DOCa Rioja
Rioja wines are protected by Spain's oldest DO (Protected Designation of Origin). Back in 1925, Rioja winemakers adopted the first appellation decree, and in 1991, Rioja was again the first to receive the new DOC (DO Calificada) status.
The wines are divided into four categories according to the aging period. In addition to being indicated on the label, they also differ in the color of the stamps with the appellation logo, which are pasted on the bottles.
Cosecha
Young wines, usually unaged or very short aged. Light, fresh and fruity. If a wine in this category is unusually expensive, then it is probably some kind of experimental wine, which may have been aged for quite a long time, but for varietal composition or other reasons, it does not fall under the appellation rules. Previously, such wines were called vino joven ("young wine").
Crianza
Wines aged at least one year in oak. White wines must spend at least 6 months in barrels. Crianza are also quite young and fresh wines, so most often they are not aged in new oak, so as not to drown out fruity aromas.
Reserva
The total aging period is at least three years, of which at least a year in barrel, for white wines the period is reduced to two years, of which at least 6 months are in oak. In good years, winemakers often exceed the required aging time. The Reserva is generally considered the "gold standard" of Rioja, both in terms of value for money and the proportions of fruity aromas and nuances introduced by the barrel.
Gran Reserva
The wines must be aged for at least 2 years in oak and 3 years in bottle. Although this is not spelled out in the decree, for such a long exposure, winemakers lay only best harvests- weaker vintages simply won't stand it. For white wines, the total aging period is at least four years, of which at least 6 months in barrels. A Grand Reserve usually has the most aging potential due to its most pronounced tannic structure. At the same time, the gran reserve, entering the market, already has an age of about 6-9 years, so it is usually completely ready for use.
Tempranillo and Co
The basis of Rioja wines is the tempranillo grape variety, which occupies more than 75% of all vineyards. The cultivar's name comes from the Spanish word temprano ("early") as it ripens quickly. Spain's greatest variety at its best shows very long aging, perfectly balanced body and acidity, clear structure and smooth fruity taste. A significant proportion of Rioja's wines are 100% tempranillo, although this is not required on the label.
Tempranillo's classical companions in the Rioja assemblage are garnacha tinta, graciano and mazuelo. Garnacha adds spiciness and body to tempranillo, as it tends to pick up alcohol faster and better. Graciano is found almost exclusively in Rioja and is now considered an extremely promising variety both for assemblage with tempranillo and for "solo performances". Mazuelo before the invasion of phylloxera was distributed almost the same as graciano and garnacha, but today it occupies hardly 3% of all vineyards. Mazuelo gives wines tannins and acidity without being different bright aromas, which makes it an ideal component for assemblages.
The least known red variety of Rioja is Maturana tinta. Maturana is characterized by bright acidity and no less bright green pepper and vegetable aromas, which is why it is almost never used in its pure form. But at the same time, Maturana is an absolutely autochthonous variety that does not grow anywhere else, so some winemakers use it to make wines with a pronounced local character. 
The whites are advancing
The two main white varieties of the region are viura and malvasia. The style of the white rioja has undergone even more striking changes than the style of the reds. Old-fashioned white riojas are almost devoid of fruity aromas and often acquire slightly oxidized sherry notes from long barrel aging, while modern whites show a fresh and floral side to the viura character.
Rioja malvasia is a difficult to grow but very interesting variety that produces round white wines with aromas of peaches, grapes, pineapple and whitecurrant. Malvasia is a traditional companion of viura in assemblages.
Return, or who's new
Such rarities as white tempranillo, white maturana and turruntes are rarely encountered even by experts. Tempranillo blanco is the result of a very recent (late 1980s) mutation of the regular tempranillo vine. In 2007, the Regulatory Council of Rioja included it in the list of allowed varieties (at the same time maturana blanca and turruntes were allowed), and loving experiments wineries are gradually starting to work with him in collaboration with the University of La Rioja. The wines are characterized by high acidity and aromas of tropical fruits and flowers. Seems to be best suited for lees aging, which softens the overly acidic character.
The now almost forgotten maturana blanca, meanwhile, is the first a separate variety Rioja, mentioned in written sources - its description was found in the edition of 1622. Turruntes Riojans always insistently ask not to be confused with the Argentine torrontes, and they are right - these are two fundamentally different varieties. There is very little turruntes in Rioja, and no one makes it in its pure form yet, but some oenologists see it as a great potential for the lungs fresh wines with pleasant lemon-apple aromas with grassy overtones.
On a separate line
The rarest white variety in Rioja is garnacha blanca, which is thought to be a mutation of tinta garnacha. Like its red cousin, garnacha blanca is distinguished by its ability to pick up alcohol easily and low acidity. For white wines in Rioja, verdejo from neighboring Rueda is also used. In addition, international varieties of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon are allowed in the region.
Rioja Terroir
In addition to the age by which wines are classified in Rioja, there are two other factors that greatly affect style and quality - sub-zones and vintage. The three main subzones differ significantly from each other in terms of soil, microclimate, topography, and preferred grape varieties. But vintage quality is usually shared across all three sub-zones, so the vintage table for Rioja works just as well as for any other classic European region.
Officially, Rioja is divided into three sub-zones: Rioja Baja, Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. At the same time, Alavesa administratively belongs to the Basque Country, and not to the province of La Rioja, but from a wine-growing point of view, this is the same Rioja as the other two subzones. At the same time, Rioja is a rather compact appellation: its length from west to east is a little over 100 km.
Rioja Alta
- (“high”) is located in the west of the province on the spurs of the mountains and closer to the ocean, so it is blown by winds from the Atlantic. Thanks to them, grapes not only gain acidity, but also less likely to suffer from diseases that are associated with high humidity. These same climatic conditions are the reason why the alcohol level in Alta and Alaves, similar to it, is usually slightly lower than in Baja, and rarely exceeds 13.5 °. Soils in Alta are mostly a mixture of clay and alluvial, while being rich in iron. All this together is ideal conditions for Rioja's key variety, tempranillo.
Rioja Alavesa
- is located next to Alta, and the climate there is the same Atlantic. Alavesa is the smallest and northern of the three subzones. From the north, it is surrounded by the Cantabrian mountains, thanks to which the winds from the Atlantic do not blow here as strongly as they could. Belonging to the Basque Country has made it the most architecturally developed subzone - here is the most a large number of wineries built by eminent architects from all over the world. As in Alta, tempranillo reigns here, and, according to many experts, it is in Alaves that the longest-lived samples of it are obtained.
Rioja Baja
- is located lower and closer to the Mediterranean Sea, which provides this area with a drier and hotter climate. Baja, by the way, also does not entirely belong to La Rioja - part of it ended up in Navarre. The soils here are different from Alta and Alavesa - limestone is not added to the ferruginous clays and sedimentary rocks, so instead of tempranillo, most of the vineyards are occupied by garnacha, which feels better in such conditions. The heat and varietal characteristics of garnacha provide a significantly higher level of alcohol in wines created mainly in Bach - 14.5 ° is not uncommon here. In the 1980s, many winemakers decided that this was too much and tried to switch to tempranillo, but quickly realized that it was pointless to go against the terroir, and now garnacha is returning to its rightful place. Usually it is used just for assemblages with thinner and lighter tempranillos from Alta and Alavesa.
Usually wines from different sub-zones are combined to make rioja classical style: not too strong, not too light and quite fragrant. Most wineries in Alta and Alavesa enter into long-term agreements with the winegrowers of Baja just for this: to guarantee themselves best berries, especially in complex vintages.
Year after year
Rioja is a reference region of the Old World, so the style of wines varies depending on the vintage. For wines of the crianza category, this is not so significant, for reserva and especially for gran reserva, it is very important. The Appellation Decree does not stipulate the rule that gran reserva is released only in the best years, but in fact it is so: only wines from almost perfect grapes are suitable for such a long aging. The region has been lucky in recent years - harvests of excellent quality often happen two years in a row, and Rioja has not seen frankly unsuccessful vintages for a very long time. The last Grand Reserve vintage on sale at most homes is just one of those brilliant vintages: 2011. Most of the wines are ready to drink, but it is better to age them for another three or four years.
Table of Rioja vintages
2001 - outstanding. The wines are ready to drink.
2002 is good. Most of the wines have passed the peak of quality.
2003 is good. Very uneven quality vintage, all wines are ready to drink or have already passed their peak, you should choose producers very carefully.
2004 - outstanding. The wines matured very quickly and most are still at their peak.
2005 - outstanding. A large-scale millesime both in terms of volume and quality. The wines are ready to drink.
2006 is very good. Classic vintage Rioja. The wines are ready to drink.
2007 is very good. Most wines are ready to drink, but some still need additional aging.
2008 is very good. Classic vintage Rioja. Wine for aging.
2009 is very good. Similar in volume and style to 2007. Wines for aging.
2010 - outstanding. Absolutely classic vintage in terms of characteristics, needs a long exposure.
2011 - outstanding. Small in volume but exceptional in quality
2012 is very good. Small in volume due to drought, but good in quality, tannin level is high, for aging.
2013 is good. One of the latest and smallest in volume for Lately, is uneven in quality.
2014 is good. By separate mention, the rating was upgraded to "very good" for whites and pinks.
Rioja figures
Of all the red wines produced in the region
43% - Joven
38% -Crianza
17% - Reserve
2% - Gran Reserva
The Spanish Autonomous Region and Province of Rioja is located in the north of the country, stretching along the northern bank of the Ebro River.
AT THE CROSSROADS OF COUNTRIES AND EPOCH
History decreed that the Rioja region turned out to be either the last outpost of the Roman Empire in the Pyrenees, or the first battlefield of the Spanish Reconquista.
Rioja (more precisely La Rioja) is an autonomous region and province in the north of the Iberian Peninsula, part of the historical region of Castile la Vieja (Old Castile). It is the smallest mainland autonomy.
Rioja is located along the northern bank of the Ebro River. The Iberian mountain chain stretches through the region with heights from 1000 to 2000 meters. It was called the Land of the Seven Valleys because so many rivers cut through the mountains, forming deep valleys.
Extensive oak and pine forests have been preserved in the valleys, large areas are covered with thickets of juniper, boxwood and holly.
At an altitude of 800 to 1000 m, a cork oak grows, above - beech thickets, and at the very top - alpine meadows.
In ancient times, the Celtic tribes of the Berons and Autrigons, as well as the Vascons, the ancestors of the modern Basques, lived on the territory of Rioja.
In the III-I centuries. BC e. these lands were occupied by the Roman Empire and were part of the province of Tarragona Spain. In the 5th century, before the collapse of the Roman Empire, the Vandals, Alans and Suebi invaded here. Wanting to protect its borders, Rome made an agreement with the Visigoths and created a buffer Visigothic kingdom to repel the barbarians. After the collapse of the Roman Empire in 574, the Duchy of Cantabria appeared on the site of the kingdom, which included most of the current Rioja.
In 711, the Arabs, having captured all of North Africa, approached Tangier, crossed it and landed on the Iberian Peninsula. They defeated the Visigoths at the Battle of Lake Khanda, and during the Conquista (conquest), the entire Cantabrian Duchy became part of the Muslim state of Al-Andalus.
The Christians of the Iberian Peninsula declared the Reconquista - a war for the return of Spanish lands and the expulsion of the Moors. The lands of present-day Rioja were the first to win important victories in the first stage of the Reconquista at the beginning of the 10th century. under the leadership of the king of Navarre, Sancho I of Pamplona (about 860-925).
The Moors were expelled, but peace did not return to Rioja. Up to the XII century. because of its fertile valleys, the kingdoms of Navarre and Castile fought, the latter won, and the region of Rioja from now to this day has remained part of historical Castile.
Rioja has never been poor. Even if the year for grapes was lean, the population grew rich due to Christian pilgrims walking along the Way of St. James, passing through the cities of Rioja to the city of Santiago de Compostela, where, according to legend, the tomb of the Apostle James is located.
1469 was marked by the creation of the national state of Spain, and in the course of the administrative reform, Rioja became part of the provinces of Burgos and Soria in the region of Old Castile.
In 1808, she established a dictate over Spain: Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte placed his brother Joseph on the Spanish throne. Rioja immediately rebelled - like the whole country, many partisan detachments appeared in the mountains, but the French left Rioja only in 1812.
The inhabitants of Rioja hoped that the Spanish king would thank them for the struggle by making Rioja an independent province, but only in the middle of the 19th century. As part of the region of Old Castile, the province of Logroño was formed, named after the main city of Rioja.
In 1980, the Riohs managed to get their province called Rioja, and in 1982 the province received the status of an autonomous region.
WINE FROM THE CELTIBERS
The wines of Rioja are known all over the world, and the ancient Phoenicians and Celtiberians began to grow grapes here.
The population of the region mainly lives along the banks of the Ebro River and is engaged in agriculture and crop processing. True, a significant part of the workers are migrants - immigrants from Africa and Eastern Europe, mainly a poorly or not at all educated mass of migrants engaged in simple physical labor.
The proximity of the ocean softens the climate of Rioja, contributing primarily to the cultivation of grapes, from which table wines have been made since the 11th century. BC e. Rioja is the center of winemaking in Spain, also called the wine region of the country, which goes beyond the official boundaries of the region, partially capturing the autonomous communities of Navarre and the Basque Country.
The main wine-growing region of the region is Haro, where most wineries Rioja. To a large extent, the development of the wine industry was helped by the fact that a lot of cork oak and common oak grow here, from which wine barrels are made, giving Rioja wines a peculiar aroma - the smell of tobacco and resinousness.
Grapes and wine have long become a kind of cult for the inhabitants of Rioja. In the city of Aro, a wine festival is held annually, the central event of which is “Batapya de vino” - the Wine Battle, the participants of which take to the streets with flasks and a “bota” - a Spanish wineskin - and begin to pour wine on each other, so that soon everyone’s clothes become Pink colour. The tradition has a long history, from the time of the battles for the land between the Bilibian rocks, which occupied a strategic position - between Navarre and the Basque Country. Wine is a symbol of the blood shed then.
In addition to grapes, the fertile lands of the Ebro Valley bring the richest harvest in Spain of tomatoes, peppers, asparagus and fruits.
Half of the inhabitants of Rioja live in Logroño, which profitably combines the title of the capital of the wine-growing Rioja and the most important stop on the pilgrimage route along the Way of St. James in Santiago de Compostela. Logrono is not a very typical city for Spain: there are relatively few old buildings here, because in the Middle Ages the city was robbed and destroyed every now and then.
But the capital has its own holiday associated with viticulture: St. Matthew's Day, or Grape Harvest, in Logroño. The tradition comes from the 12th century, it is celebrated for a whole week, and the climax just falls on St. Matthew's Day - September 21. On that day, the children of Rioja fill a large vat with the first grapes of the season and crush it, and the resulting juice is presented by adult grape pickers to the patroness of the city, Our Lady of Valvanere. At the end of the holiday, the vat is solemnly burned.
There are still many different holidays in Rioja, but the most original and risky is the Dance on stilts in Anguiano, on July 22, on the Day of Mary Magdalene. At noon, after the end of the service, a group of dancers on half-meter stilts accompanies the image of Mary Magdalene to the sound of music to the square, eight young men on stilts descend several times in a dance down a steep paved slope, continuously circling around their axis, playing castanets. The dance is very dangerous, requires a long training, and it originated in the distant past, when during rains and snowfalls, the inhabitants of Rioja were forced to move on stilts on wet ground.
ATTRACTIONS IN RIOJA
Natural:
■ Ebro Valley.
■ Cantabrian mountains.
■ Country of seven valleys.
■ Rock formations of Piquetso and Piquetsa (Autol).
■ Sierra de Sebolera National Park (1995).
■ Rioja Botanical Garden (2005).
■ The reserves of Valles de Huber, Lesa, Cidacos, Alama and Valle de Ocón.
■ Sierra de la Demanda and Sotos del Ebro parks.
Historical:
■ Huber Castle (IX-X centuries).
■ Enciso Castle (X century).
■ Arnedillo Castle (XII century).
■ Iconic:
■ Monastery of Saint Millan (San Millan Cogolla, VI century).
■ Monastery and Church of Santa Maria la Real (Nahera, 1052).
■ Vapvanera Monastery (XI century).
■ Cathedral of Calahorra (XV century).
■ Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada (village of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 1537-1540).
■ Monastery of St. Helena (XVIII century).
City of Logroño:
■ Fragments of the Mantible bridge across the Ebro (II century).
■ Court Church of the Mother of God (1130).
■ Gothic Cathedral of Santiago el Real (XVI century).
■ Churches of San Bartolome, Santiago and Palacio (all from the 16th-18th centuries).
■ Equestrian statue of Saint Jaime (XVIII century).
■ Cathedral of Santa Maria de la Redonda (XVI-XVIII centuries).
■ Provincial Parliament building, Fuente de la Gran Via bronze fountain.
■ Complex Muraglia del Revellin.
■ Modern town hall.
■ Del Mercado Square.
■ Rioja Museum of History and Art (18th century building).
■ For the first time, the name Rioja is mentioned in 1099, in a text about the granting of fueros (privileges of the feudal lords of medieval Spain) by King Alfonso VI of Leon the Brave (1043-1109).
■ The origin of the region's name is very simple: the Okha River, a tributary of the Ebro, flows here. In Castilian, "river Oja" sounds like "Rio de Oja", and if you pronounce it together, then you get "Rioja".
■ Wines of Rioja - mostly red and rosé, including the highest category (EOS). They are produced only in three strictly defined zones: Upper Rioja (Alta), Rioja Alavesa and Lower Rioja (Baja). Most expensive varieties made in Upper Rioja and Rioja Alavesa, Lower Rioja supplies only ordinary wines, consumed mainly only within the country. Rioja's main grape variety is Tempranillo.
■ Atmospheric attraction of Rioja is the Sierzo wind: very strong, dry and usually cold. It comes from the north or northwest and breaks into the Ebro valley. Even the Romans were familiar with the nature of this wind, they also gave it a name, which in Latin means “circular”. Sierzo wind gusts reach speeds of 100 km/h, and the maximum recorded speed is 160 km/h (1956).
■ The Rioja Botanical Garden has 600 species of plants. The Special Collection is a collection of frozen plants created in the event of an environmental disaster.
■ total area Rioja vineyards - 420 km2, annually produces about 3 million liters of wine, or about 400 million bottles, more than 2,500 growers and almost 500 wineries work in Rioja.
■ During the celebration of the Battle of Wine in Haro, an average of 30-40 thousand liters of wine is spent pouring wine over each other.
■ The wineries of Rioja are custom built and original buildings. For example, the Uz / og winery was designed by architect Santiago Calatrava, the author of the design of the international airport in Bilbao. The building resembles either a huge bird descending on the vineyards from the mountains, or giant barrels of wine dug into the ground.
Marques de Caceres is a rare occurrence in the wine market because it is one of the few truly global wine brands. The main problem of wine is that if you like something specific, then you need to hunt for it - each store has its own assortment, which differs by 90 percent, so there are very few really recognizable brands. The same "Marquis" is almost everywhere. Where I have not seen him - in various duty free, in shops in Geneva, in Milan, in London. So when I saw the bottle at Crossroads, I decided to try it. Moreover, its price (by Moscow standards) seems to be sane - 919 rubles. How fair is she? Let's try to find out.
Few details
Name: Marques de Caceres Crianza 2007 / Marques de Caceres Crianza 2007
Origin: Spain, Rioja
Compound: 85% tempranillo, 15% garnacha tinta and graciano
Mode of production: The wine is aged first in oak barrels for 12 months, and then "ripens" in bottles for at least 14 months.
Year Features: The summer of 2007 in the northwest of Spain was dry and not very hot (by Spanish standards, of course), the grapes ripened evenly, without shocks. The result is a combination of intense wine taste, slightly refreshing sourness and traditional southern astringency (tannins). The 2007 harvest is considered one of the most successful in Rioja in the last decade.
About the Rioja region
The Rioja wine region is located in northern Spain, on the very border with the Basque Country, and is named after the autonomous settlement of the same name, La Rioja. Rioja consists of three regions - Rioja Alta (Upper Rioja), Rioja Baja (Lower Rioja) and Rioja Alavesa (Rioja Alaveza from the Basque province of Alava, with which it borders). As a rule, in the production of Rioja, grapes from all three areas are used (just mixed to taste).
In terms of geography, Rioja is a classic wine region. On the one hand - the Cantabrian mountains (up to 2648 meters high), on the other - the Ebra River. The result is a mild continental climate and no Atlantic winds for which the north of Spain is famous. Most of the vineyards are located on the foothill plain, at an altitude of about 500 meters above sea level.
Despite the fact that the "width" of Rioja is only 125 kilometers (from the city of Haro (Haro) in the west to the city of Alfaro (Alfaro) in the east), the climate in all three areas is different. Rioja Alta (Upper Rioja) is in the northwest of the region and the vineyards grow taller than other areas, which means a shorter season, which means less sugar, less alcohol and a softer (lighter) taste of the wine. Rioja Alavesa in the north of the region "produces" more expressive grapes - the soil there is more rocky, vines located at a relatively large distance from each other, less "compete" with each other for nutrients and as a result, the grapes get more flavor. Rioja Baja (Baja Rioja) is located in the southwest of the region and is strongly influenced by the Mediterranean climate - it is the warmest and "drier" region of Rioja. In contrast to the "pale" wine from Rioja Alta, the wine from Rioja Baja turns out to be very rich, almost purple, and the alcohol level can reach 18 degrees (the usual level for Spain is 13-14 degrees).
According to the method of wine production, Rioja is very similar to Bordeaux - the wine is usually aged in oak barrels. According to the aging (maturation) period, Riojas are divided (classified) into 4 types - "simple" Rioja (Rioja) - the youngest wine - spends less than a year in barrels, Crianza (Crianza) is aged for at least two years, and at least one year in barrels (then aged in bottle), Rioja Reserva is aged for at least three years (at least one year in barrel) and finally Rioja Gran Reserva is aged for at least two years in oak barrels, and then another 3 years in bottle.
About grapes
Like most wines from Rioja, Marquis de Cáceres is an assemblage blend of different grape varieties. 85% tempranillo and 15% grenache and garciano. Why is it so difficult?
Tempranillo is the best known and most popular grape variety in Spain. It is called "noble" grapes for the depth and richness of taste that it conveys to the wine. It's called from Spanish temprano, which means "early" - which indicates that it ripens a few weeks earlier than other varieties Spanish grapes. Most of all, tempranillo likes temperature changes in mountainous continental Spain - from +40 during the day to +16 at night (in July) - during the day in the heat it gets sugar and a thick peel, which then gives astringency and tannins, and picks up sourness on a cool night. Tempranillo is not very high in sugar and acid, so it is usually mixed with other grape varieties to balance the taste.
Grenache- one of the most common grape varieties in the world. It ripens late, so it likes to grow in hot, dry climates and Spain is ideal for it (it also grows in the south of France in the Rhone Valley, in California, in Australia). Grenache gives the wine aromas of spices, wood and berries (a rich bitter-herbal taste), but it lacks acidity, astringency (tannins) and color, so it is almost always mixed with other varieties. Since Grenache has a lot of sugar, it is the perfect complement to tempranillo, which just lacks sugar.
Garciano grows mainly in Rioja. The vines give a very high quality, but very small yield, so growing it in large areas is not profitable and is used to complement other grape varieties. Garciano gives the wine a rich (deep) color and acidity, which he complements tempranillo.
So, Crianza Marquis de Cáceres is a saturated tart taste tempranillo, sugar and grenache spices, deep ruby color and fresh sourness of garciano. And all this is carefully mixed and aged first for 12 months in oak barrels, and then another 14 months in bottles.
Who is the Marquis de Caceres?
Bodega (bodega, as the Spaniards call the estates of winemakers) Marquis de Cáceres was founded in 1970 by Henri Forner, a hereditary winemaker. During the civil war of 1936-1939. ("For Whom the Bell Tolls" by Hemingway is about her) the Forner family fled Spain and settled in France. In the early 1960s, Henri and his brother bought and restored two abandoned chateaus in the Medoc (Bordeaux) - Chateaux Camensac and Chateaux Larouse-Trintaudon. These chateaus now produce some of the finest Bordeaux - Grand Cru Classe and Cru Bourgeois Superior respectively. When Enri decided to return to his homeland in Spain and create a bodega there, he chose the most, in his opinion, the best place for this - the village of the town of Cenicero.
The name Marquis de Cáceres for the name of the new farm was lent to Enri by his Spanish partner - Marquis Vincente Noguera and Espinosa de los Monteros (Vincente Noguera y Espimosa de los Monteros) - these are the simple names for Spanish nobility... The title of Marquis was bestowed on Vincent's ancestor back in the 18th century - captain of the royal flotilla Juan Ambrosio Garcia de Caceres and Montemayor (Juan Ambrosio Garcia de Caceres y Montemayor) for services to the fatherland during numerous naval battles.
The Bodega Marquis de Cáceres in Senicero is located 20 kilometers from the capital of the La Rioja region, the city of Logrono, in the Rioja Alta region. The Marquis de Cáceres has the largest wine cellar in Rioja with over 40,000 oak barrels and over 10 million bottles. Enri has abandoned American oak barrels (cheaper = most popular in Rioja) and uses French oak barrels almost entirely. Unlike most wine producers in Rioja, who prefer to age their wine most of the time in old barrels and only a little in bottles, Enri decided to replace all the old barrels with new ones and increase the bottle aging time. As a result, the already tart and a full-bodied wine tempranillo is more balanced and more gentle.
Bodega Marquis de Cáceres is completely focused on wine production - they do not have their own vineyards. The plots in Rioja are small, the soil type changes every few hundred meters - so instead of buying a large vineyard where most of the wine will not grow in the most optimal conditions, Enri decided to go the other way - he buys grapes directly from farmers and cooperatives who own the best plots and produce the highest quality grapes. The grapes are harvested only by hand under the strict daily control of the representatives of the bodega vineyard by vineyard as the grapes mature.
Another "innovation" of Enri Forner is the focus on foreign markets - the head of the export department is Enri's daughter. While most Rioja producers produce wine for the Spanish, the bodega Marquis de Cáceres makes no distinction between the home market and the "rest of the world" - for them, Spain is just part of the global market. As a result, the Marquis de Cáceres, based on various studies by the Spanish Government, is recognized as the most famous Spanish Rioja in the world.
And what does it taste like?
Excellent wine for delicious home dinner. I will not pretend that I have distinguished the taste of blackberry, juniper, vanilla and a little cinnamon as is customary among wine critics - I do not distinguish all this. What can I say for sure that the Crianza Marquis de Casares is a typical "Spaniard" in the language of auto journalists. There is a rather noticeable, but at the same time, pleasant astringency, it is felt that it has been aged for a couple of years, notes of wood are felt (due to the oak barrel), herbal bitterness is felt (this is from grenache), there is a little sourness (garciano also did not disappoint), which slightly knocks down the bitterness of tannins, giving a little freshness. As a result, the taste is rich, interesting, multifaceted, and remains in the mouth for a long time as an aftertaste. It would be nice to let him "breathe" for 30-40 minutes before drinking - just open the bottle and leave it aside. Oxygen will mix with wine and reveal many additional facets of taste.
With what to drink it? It went great with my steaks medium rare with a sauce of stinky cheese (roquefort) and cream. A truly wonderful combination. So everything that is made from pork or beef can be safely washed down with this wine. And, of course, cheese. Only not quite seasoned - the Gruer and comrades will not go - they will kill the taste of this krianza. Hard and aged cheeses need something brighter and richer - the reserve of the same Marquis de Casares should be suitable, but I have not tried it. With lamb, it is also not very - it is still not tart enough to cope with fatty stew or baked lamb.
Where can I buy?
I bought it at Crossroads, but I saw it at Carousel and at Scarlet Sails". It costs 919 rubles as of yesterday. A short search in Yandex found a price of 616 rubles in one of the online stores. Quite good margins for wine from our retail chains ...
A spoon of tar
The price of wine is the main disappointment if you know at least approximately the prices in Europe and America. Knowing that wine in Russia is unrealistically expensive compared to the rest of the world (well, except for China and Japan, I guess), I decided to check how much a 2007 Crianza costs in Europe and America. The result is very sad - in Germany the price is 10 euros (400 rubles), in America - 14 dollars (the same 400 rubles). If the difference in price with Germany can somehow be understood - the road takes a day, there are no customs duties; but in the case of America, such arguments do not work ...
So very good wine"for every day", but it's better not to think about the price - cheaper than 1000 rubles and great!
This region is located in northern Spain and is famous for its winemaking. Rioja is located in the Ebro Valley, it is divided into three parts: Rioja Baja, Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. Alta is the largest zone where a huge part of the land is given over to vineyards, aged wine is made from their vines, as well as not very strong wine. Alavesa is located on the smallest territory, the vineyards here occupy half the land. The area is known for bright and fresh red and white wines. Baja is the place where the most strong wines which have a bright fruity taste.
During the excavations, it was found that Rioja was the center of winemaking back in Roman times; during the reign of the Moors, winemaking also occupied an important part of the life of local people. The second part of the 19th century is the time when Rioja became famous throughout Europe. The French paid attention to this province, thanks to which the region became so popular. However, at the beginning of the 20th century, the demand for local wines decreased, and it resumed only by 1945. Some 15-20 years more - and Rioja wines began to spread all over the world.
Rioja has an airport where flights from Moscow, Kyiv and various cities of Europe arrive, and therefore it is not difficult to get here. Then you can take a taxi, but this is not the cheapest way to get to the desired point.
Rioja Map
Climate
The climatic conditions here are unique, and thanks to the numerous rivers flowing here, the lands of the region are very fertile. In the Alta zone, the climate is Atlantic, which is characterized by moderate temperatures. The minimum mark on the thermometer is +4 degrees, which concerns the most high temperatures, then usually above +24 does not happen here. There are occasional showers, but they are few. But in the Baja zone, there is almost no precipitation. The eastern part of the region has a Mediterranean climate, only in winter the weather is quite cool, given the Spanish temperatures. In the mountains, there are quite large temperature differences during the change of seasons. For example, in winter the temperature drops to 0.
Attractions
Of course, it is in this region that the largest and most famous wine museum is located, which is called El Museo del Vino Vivanzo Dynasty. You can also visit the Enkiso paleontological center, where you will see the extraordinary traces left by ancient dinosaurs. And this region is also interesting because it can show examples of mountain architecture, which are grottoes-dwellings built right in the rocks.
The cultural center of the region is called Lagrogno, because this city has a rich historical past. The Way of St. James played an important role in the formation of the medieval city. And now, when you walk along the cobbled streets, you meet the traces left by the pilgrims - a shell. For the pilgrims, an interesting stone bridge, Puenta Pedra, was also built, which leads to the old quarter. Here you will also see the mountains of Cantabria, which are an example of those grotto dwellings made in the rock.
In Logrono, it is worth seeing the temple of Santiago el Real, as well as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Redonda. There is also a historical and art museum in the city.
Entertainment and recreation
Probably, first of all, every visitor should try local wine here, because the region is known for this product. There are four categories of wine: Crianza, Gran Reserva, Joven and Reserva. Joven is a young wine, it can be said that it is not aged, i. it is not stored in barrels. Crianza wine is aged for at least two years, and Reserve - at least three. The most expensive wines are Grand Reserves, since their aging period is not less than five years, and two of the five years the wine is in oak barrels. All four categories can offer red, white, rosé wine, and therefore everyone can taste exactly what he likes.
Also, while in Rioja, be sure to enjoy local dish, which is very simple and tasty, is boiled potatoes and chorizo, i.e. spicy pork sausages. Tourists also like to try traditional sweets - marzipan from Soto, just keep in mind that this dessert is very sweet.
If you are coming here in June, be sure to visit the wine festival that takes place in Haro. This is not even so much a festival as a wine battle. During this battle, the participants must be dressed in white T-shirts, and then everyone pours wine on each other from glasses, buckets, kegs, hoses. The festival will close only when not a single white T-shirt is visible. Participation in this battle will give you a lot of positive emotions.
Car rental and housing
If you want to drive around the whole region, it is better to rent a car, because it is very easy to do it via the Internet. At the rental point, present your passport, international driver's license, credit card and voucher sent to your email address. You must be 21 years of age or older and have at least a year of driving experience to be able to rent a car. The average price is from 2500 rubles for three days, but please note that when booking online, you can get an additional 10% discount. In addition, all changes or cancellations of car reservations are absolutely free in most cases. Some rental points give you a car immediately with a full tank, please note that you must also return the car with a full tank.
Hotel VistaRenting accommodation in Rioja is also very easy, there are many options that can also be booked online absolutely free of charge, and in case of a trip disruption, you can cancel your reservation for free (however, there are paid cancellations). Here you can stay both in an apartment and rent a whole house, especially if you are relaxing with a company. For example, there are very budget options when the cost per night is only 10 euros. In general, the cost of living is 22 - 30 euros per night.
And there is unique opportunity rent a room from local residents who live in those same grottoes, while you can try homemade goat cheese, homemade sausage and bread.
shopping
While in Rioja, it is a sin not to buy local wine home. The Vino Lur brand is especially praised, this wine is made according to the old method. On average, for a bottle of wine with a volume of 750 ml, you need to pay 1,500 rubles and more.
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