Slaughter of rabbits: methods and devices. How to skin a rabbit? Butchering a rabbit

Quite often, when preparing certain dishes, the hostess needs tomatoes. They contain a large amount of vitamins and other useful substances, and by themselves they have a pleasant taste and aroma.

Usually, during cooking, it is required to peel the tomato from the skin. Otherwise, under the influence of high temperatures, it rolls and remains very hard, which can significantly spoil the appearance and taste of the dish. There are several proven methods on how to peel a tomato. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

It all depends on what dish you are cooking. Soup or tomato broth, tomatoes baked in the oven or fried in a pan, or maybe a platter of vegetables cooked on a fire?

Method one: using boiling water

Many experienced housewives know how to peel tomatoes with hot water. This method is the most popular and widespread. Let's take a closer look at it.

You will need a large bowl or saucepan, boiling water, and the tomatoes themselves. Pre-cut each vegetable at the very top with a knife crosswise. After that, place the product in a saucepan and fill with hot water. It is necessary to take into account the maturity of tomatoes. If they are very ripe, then it will take them half a minute for the skin to begin to move away by itself. If the product is not ripe, then hold it in water for at least sixty seconds. It is very important in this case not to overcook the vegetables, otherwise they will simply begin to cook.

Remove the tomatoes and place them in cold water. Now, using a thin knife, grab the end of the skin and pull it. You will see how the skin itself is separated from the tomato.

Method two: blanching

Surely everyone knows how to blanch vegetables before freezing. Did you know that you can peel tomatoes very easily in this way? So, how to separate the skin from a tomato using blanching?

Wash vegetables and boil water. Dip the tomatoes in boiling water one by one for twenty seconds. As soon as you see that the skin is cracked, remove the product from the water immediately. Place the tomatoes in the cold liquid and gently peel them.

Method three: using a microwave

Nowadays, almost every home has such appliances as a microwave oven. It can not only help you reheat or defrost food, but also peel tomatoes. in the microwave?

Place the tomatoes on a flat-bottomed platter and make a few cuts in the tops. Put the vegetables in and turn on the heating mode for 30 seconds. During this time, under the influence of microwaves, the skin will heat up and begin to move away from the pulp itself. You just have to carefully remove it.

Option four

Some housewives choose a rather difficult way of how to peel a tomato. They simply make cross cuts on vegetables and try to peel them by peeling the skin off the pulp. This method is not easy, but it has the right to exist.

Method five: baking

If you're cooking tomatoes by roasting them completely, you don't need to peel them first. It is recommended to add salt and your favorite spices to the tomatoes. Place the vegetables on a baking dish and place it in the oven. After heat treatment, the skin will become wrinkled and begin to separate on its own. It will be possible to clean the vegetable immediately before use. This method will maximally preserve the taste of the product and the juice in it, as well as all the useful properties.

Tomatoes cooked on fire should not be pre-peeled. In this case, their peel is covered with a black crust and easily leaves on its own. A vegetable prepared in this way is best served in its original form, and before use it is already peeled.

We remove the seeds

How to remove the skin from a tomato, you probably already understood. But sometimes the recipe calls for cleaning the vegetable from the seeds. In order to carry out this manipulation as correctly as possible, it is necessary to cut the peeled tomatoes in half, and each half into three more parts.

After that, using a sharp knife, remove the seeds from the pulp and gently rinse the tomatoes.

It is much more pleasant to eat tomatoes without skins (pickled or stewed, fresh or boiled). The peel of a tomato is poorly absorbed by the human body and is practically not digested. It also spoils the appearance of the dish, making it less appetizing. That is why many recipes recommend removing it.

Seeds also do not carry much benefit for the body. That is why, in order to get all the best from this product, it is necessary to carefully peel the tomatoes completely, leaving only the pulp. Cook with pleasure and choose the methods that suit you to clean this vegetable. Bon appetit!

However, what to do, you need to get dirty and separate the meat. The current hunter, which, as a rule, does - they chop the carcass into pieces with an ax along with the skin, here's the cut for you.

Wild boar and elk are mostly butchered by hunters today, especially in winter. However, all this is not very good, and the skin is a very important trophy, since many hunters mainly hunt for it. And then you want it - you don't want it, but you have to become a skinner. Do you like to ride, as they say, you have to carry the carcass to the base even without a sled, or, nevertheless, remove the skin and cut the carcass into pieces on the spot.

No, you can, of course, load this work on homework, motivating by the fact that I, they say, got the beast, and what you will do with it there is your concern. But it is sometimes difficult for owners of cars to transport home a whole carcass, and in a city apartment, you can’t even bother with butchering a carcass.

So you have to do it either in the garage, or at the base. And there, how it will turn out - you need exactly meat, - we remove the skin as necessary, and if you need the skin as well, then it doesn’t matter - either you got married well, or take off the skin yourself. And what is good and what is bad is different for everyone.

Who is richer - can entrust this business to rangers for a certain amount of money, and if you go hunting yourself, and you don’t want to spend extra money - then again in a situation that you yourself will have to work hard.

Those who want to laugh at those who do not know how to skin or are just learning how to do it - there are a lot of them on the Internet, so there is no need to do it - there are plenty of photos. It remains to find out how to do it right. "Country Man Must Survive" is true if you are a country man. But that's not the way to skin it.

Photographing and processing animal skins for the manufacture of hunting trophies

There are quite a few shooting options, depending on the type of animal and what you plan to do.

Predators and rodents

If, for example, you have caught a large predator (bear) and do not know whether a carpet or stuffed animal will be made from it, then the option of shooting the skin “in layers” is suitable. If you want to make a stuffed animal standing on its hind legs, then the option of shooting the skin “from the back” is more suitable. For other types of stuffed bear, both options are suitable.

If you have caught a medium-sized predator (wolf, lynx), then to make a carpet you need to skin it in a “layer”, and to make a stuffed animal, shooting in a “layer”, “from the back”, and “stocking” is also suitable.

For skinning small predators (fox, raccoon, badger, wolverine, polecat, marten, etc.) . For skinning a porcupine, only the “layer” option is suitable.

About shooting a skin for making a trophy head from predatory animals will be discussed separately.

Ungulates

There are four main options for ungulates: shooting the skin to make a trophy head, shooting “from the back” - for making a whole stuffed animal from small and medium-sized ungulates, “layer” - for making a stuffed animal from a wild boar, and a combined shooting option - for a whole stuffed animal from large ungulates .

Shooting the skin "layer"

This method is used, as a rule, for skinning large predators, although it is applicable to other animals, especially if you intend to make a “carpet” out of your trophy.

So that the shooting process does not take a lot of time and effort, you need to have a well-sharpened tool on hand and prepare a place for work.

The sooner you start skinning after mining, the more likely you are to keep the skin in perfect condition. Already a few hours after shooting, and in the summer or when shooting an animal during or immediately after feeding, the skin begins to deteriorate. In the axillary and inguinal regions, when the animal lies on its side, its body cools down very slowly, and the skin begins to rot. Due to the ongoing fermentation process, heat and gases are released in the stomach and intestines of the animal, as a result of which the stomach swells and the skin on the stomach becomes green. In such places, the fur almost always comes out during dressing, and in some cases even before dressing.

Of course, during the hunt, it is far from always possible to remove the skin from the animal immediately after shooting. However, keep in mind that your trophy will only look great if, at all stages of working with it, you try to process and preserve it, following the tips outlined in this article.

If you do not have the opportunity to remove the skin immediately after the extraction of the trophy, try to protect your prey as much as possible from exposure to heat and moisture.

Do not leave the animal lying in the sun. Do not put it on a cellophane film - without oxygen, the skin will begin to rot, not to mention that this film will not allow the carcass to cool. You can put the trophy on any natural surface - on the ground (but not on wet or warmed by the sun), dry grass, boards (except for pine - resin stains the fur), hay or several layers of cotton fabric, matting or canvas.

The main thing is that the surface on which your trophy lies is as clean, dry and not heated as possible. It is best if the animal lies in a cool, well-ventilated, shaded area. During the hunt, most likely, it will not be possible to comply with these conditions, and then everything will depend on how quickly you can process the trophy.

In order to avoid damage to the skin in the axillary and inguinal regions, it is necessary to fix the animal's paws at a distance from the body and from each other, for example, by stretching them on ropes. It is even better if the whole animal is suspended in the air. It is also important to position the limbs and head of the extracted trophy not pressed against the body for the reason that it is rather problematic to move the limbs apart when rigor mortis sets in. An animal's muscles can become so stiff that often the bones of the limbs break - as a result, you can not only pierce the skin with the sharp edges of the broken bone, but also injure yourself.

But even if you take all the above measures, it is best to start shooting as early as possible.

Starting to shoot the skin, try to position the body of the animal so that it is convenient for you to work with it. The less you get tired when processing your trophy, the better your work will be. If you do not have an assistant, secure the legs of the animal by stretching them to the sides and tying them with a rope (Fig. 1).

Thus, you will achieve that when working with the skin you will have a minimum number of hard-to-reach places for shooting.

Start shooting with a cut in the skin on the sternum (Fig. 2). To do this, push the fur to the sides until the skin appears. Make an incision that cuts through the skin, but not deeper, otherwise blood may flow, which will stain the fur and interfere with further work. Then insert the point of the knife under the skin with the blade up and cut the skin towards the head of the animal with the knife from the inside out, constantly spreading the fur to the sides so as not to cut it. Try to make the cut as straight as possible. You need to finish the incision between the bases of the jaws, at the level of the ear.

During the shooting, the fur of the animal fluffs up at the edges of the incision and is stained with blood. As a result, a number of problems arise. Fur stuck to the meat makes it difficult to see the edges of the cuts clearly. If it is not removed to the side, there is a risk of continuing the incision in the wrong place. Or the fur gets under the knife, and you cut it off, which affects the appearance of the trophy.

All this can be avoided by wetting the fur along the edges of the cut with salt water (100 g of table salt per 1 liter of water, preferably cooled boiled). It is more convenient to do this if you have a plastic spray bottle with you, although a brush, a piece of cotton fabric or foam rubber may well work.

Next, peel the skin to the sides, pulling the edges and sticking your hand under the skin (in many freshly mined animals, the skin is well separated from the meat with almost no help from a knife). Before continuing the incision from the sternum to the abdomen, try to separate the skin from the walls of the abdominal cavity with your hands so as not to accidentally cut the animal's belly. Having brought the incision almost to the anus, go around it on one side and continue the incision to the tip of the tail. Also, on one side, go around the genitals and scrotum. Never leave the fur covering the animal's genitals on the carcass.

Remove the tail with a knife. If the animal’s tail is well removed with a “stocking” (for such animals as a fox, marten, etc.), then it is more convenient to remove it at the last moment, when the skin is removed from the whole animal, but before shooting the head, holding the skin with your fingers and stretching the vertebrae . But after the tail is removed in this way, be sure to open it with a knife from the underside to the very tip. Try to make sure that the cut goes strictly from below. This is necessary in order to subsequently carefully salt, degrease and scour the tail. It is unlikely that you want to have a trophy with a mangy tail.

On the hind limbs, start the incision from a point located a few centimeters from the anus closer to the abdomen (between the anus and the scrotum - in the male). Next, lead the incision to the popliteal cavity along the inner side of the thigh.

If you are going to make a carpet out of the skin, then lead the cut to the center of the heel and further along the bottom of the foot to the skin cushion on the paw of the animal. Cut the pillow in the middle almost to the fingers and then draw the cuts to the sides to the sides of the paw. In this case, incisions should be made between the balls of the fingers and the ball of the foot along the hairline (Fig. 3).

If you intend to make a stuffed animal out of this animal, then cut from the knee area not to the heel, but to a point located between the heel and ankle, on the inside of the paw, but not along the hollow, but closer to the heel. Do not cut the pillow on the foot, but go around the inside of the paw, leaving a fur edging about 1 cm wide on the pillow. And then between the foot pillow and the fingertips along the hairy part of the skin to the outer side of the paw (Fig. 4).

On the forelimbs, the cuts start from the middle between the top of the shoulder and the armpit. Then make an incision along the inside of the paw, closer to the elbow, then to the middle of the hand pad.

On the hand, the skin is cut according to the same principle as on the feet, depending on what you want to make from the skin of the animal (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).

After that, you need to remove the skin from the paws of the animal. To do this, pull the edge of the skin and with the help of a knife separate the skin from the meat, starting from the convergence of the longitudinal section (from head to tail) with the cuts on the limbs. Then remove the skin from the paws on both sides of the cut. Separating one of the paws from the skin, bend the paw at the joint. Now, fixing the paw in the area of the joint and pulling the skin, you get to the fingers.

Remove the fingers from the skin to the last joint, leaving in the skin only the last phalanx of the finger, on which the claw is located (Fig. 5). Pillows on the fingers are not cut.

Having removed two paws, for example, the front and back left, remove the skin from the back of the animal. Now it will be easier to remove the remaining two limbs.

Lastly, remove the skin from the head of the animal. This is one of the most difficult and crucial moments. The skin is removed from the head with a “stocking”. When you get to the base of the ears, separate the ear from the skull by cutting close to the skull with a knife so that the ear cartilage is completely on the skin. Next, continue to skin with a "stocking", cutting with a knife as close to the skull as possible, especially in the eye area, where the skin is closest to the bone. To keep the eyelids intact, you need to pull the skin away from the skull and, as soon as the back of the orbit is exposed, cut the skin not along the surface of the skull, but by directing the tip of the knife into the orbit. When the eyeball appears, pull back the skin of the eyelid and cut it near the eyeball itself. If everything is done correctly, you will get an incision in which the inner surface of the eyelids will be visible. Insert your finger into the resulting hole and, pulling the skin away from the eye, cut close to the eyeball. After the eyelids are separated from the skull, do not rush to remove quickly. The lacrimal gland is located in the corner of the eye. The skin in this area is very thin and is attached close to the bone, so you need to separate it by cutting almost along the bone. At the same time, you should not press hard on the knife, scratching the skull, if later you expect to make a trophy out of the skull of an animal.

After separating the skin to the molars, cut it closer to the skull so that the teeth become visible in the cut.

Next, separate the lips, cutting them as close to the skull as possible. First, remove the lower lip, then, having lifted the skin almost to the nostrils, separate the cartilage of the nose from the skull, leaving it on the skin of the animal. As a result, the entire soft part of the chin, lower and upper lips, and the nose, together with the nasal cartilage, should separate from the skull. With a certain skill, you will be able to skin the skull in such a way that there will be a minimum of "cut" meat on it. But this skill is acquired with rich experience in high-quality processing of raw materials, as a result of which you will learn to visually and tactilely determine that thin border between the skin itself and the muscle or subcutaneous fat layers, along which (ideally) the incision should pass.

While the experience is not so great, it is easier when shooting to leave more cuts on the skin, which can later be removed with the help of skinning, but to avoid numerous cuts in the skin.

Shooting the skin "from the back"

This method of shooting is a little more laborious than the previous one, but it ultimately affects the quality of the stuffed animal very significantly.

Draw the main incision along the back, from the base of the tail, slightly stepping back from the center line of the back in any direction; trying to make the cut as even as possible, move along the spine to the head, ending at the back of the animal's head.

Then return to the beginning of the incision and continue from the side of the tail and anus towards the abdomen, ending 5-7 cm after the anus.

Make incisions on the hind legs in the same way as when shooting in “layer”, bypassing the pads of the paws on the inside 1 cm from the border of the pad.

Start the incisions on the front legs just above the elbow along the inside of the shoulder and then along the inside of the forearm, similarly to the previous shooting option.

After that, you can begin to remove the skin, showing special care in the axillary and inguinal regions, where it is quite easy to make a mistake in the folds of fat and skin and cut the skin.

Remove the skin from the shoulders with a “stocking”, otherwise the shooting is practically the same as the previous method.

If the animal has started rigor mortis or you do not have an assistant, or the trophy is very large and it is difficult to remove the front legs with a “stocking”, then it is quite acceptable to continue the cuts on the front legs from the elbow along the lower edge of the shoulder blade to the central cut on the back, in fact, skinning the “layer” ", but from the back.

Shooting the skin "stocking"

Draw the main incision from one foot to the other, from the outer edge between the pads of the fingers and the pad of the paw to the inside. Then, rounding the pad of the paw on the inside, to the center of the heel, to the popliteal cavity and, moving to the second paw between the tail and the anus, repeat everything in reverse order.

On the front legs, make cuts in the same way as when shooting “from the back”, from the elbow to the hand.

Next, remove the skin from the feet and toes of the hind legs of the animal. Now you can hang the carcass by the hind legs, threading the rope through the puncture between the ankle and the Achilles vein. This will greatly facilitate your further work on shooting the skin.

With this option, after you release the hind legs and tail of the animal, the skin is removed from the carcass quite easily. In fact, you can simply pull it off the carcass by grasping the edges of the skin and pulling it down to the very armpits. Try not to overdo it. If the skin is pulled together with difficulty, it is better not to risk it, but to gradually remove it from the carcass, lifting it around with a knife.

A. Salov

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Enduring the hardships and vagaries of nature, the hunter spends day after day to achieve his goal - to get the beast. And when the work of participants in a collective hunt, many kilometers of a forest road or endless hours of sitting on a storehouse are rewarded with good luck, the eternal question “What to do?” arises. The trophy has been obtained, but it needs to be properly processed and saved. If the shot animal is not large, and in the next few hours you have the opportunity to transfer it to a taxidermist, then this is exactly what you should do. When the size of the animal does not allow it to be freely transported, then it is necessary to remove the skin. As a rule, a special person is present at commercial hunts - Skinner, his duties include the processing and conservation of your trophy. However, such a service is of high quality only in the hunting grounds of the regions where a large number of hunts are conducted with the participation of foreign hunters, for example, in Kamchatka. In our country, the role of a skinner is often performed by a “pro” from rangers or sympathizers. The result of their work is cut off eyelids, lips, torn ears, improperly salted and subsequently peeled areas, as well as other, sometimes irreparable, defects. Therefore, never use the services of people in whom you are not sure. Below we will try to explain how to deliver the trophy safely, and some of the basics of the initial processing of the trophy for the manufacture of a taxidermy product.

1. Large mammals: Of course, we will talk about the bear, the largest predator in the Urals. The specificity lies in the fact that the hunt for this animal begins quite early, even in summer, when the average daily temperature is quite high. In such circumstances, proper conservation is especially important. First you need to decide what product you want to see from the beast you have obtained. If it is a stuffed animal, then first of all try to take measurements, at least two indicated in the figure (1. body length from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail, 2. from the inner corner of the eye to the tip of the nose.). If the animal is not large, then you can remove the skin using the cut pattern for making a stuffed animal, with this method the main cut runs along the back, above the tail it is divided into two cuts running along the caudal (back) side of the hind legs. Two auxiliary incisions are also made on the forelimbs going from the elbow to the hand along the inside. If necessary, these incisions can be expanded above the elbow bend. We recommend this method of shooting for the subsequent production of a stuffed animal, but it is quite laborious, especially when a large bear is caught. Therefore, you can remove the skin with a layer. It is not necessary to cut the animal's genitals more than twice, making the main cut along the midline of the abdomen, when the skin is obviously removed on a stuffed animal, for the subsequent manufacture of the carpet, the integrity of the genitals does not matter.

If in the near future it is possible to deliver the removed skin to a taxidermist, then the head, hands of the front and feet of the hind legs can be left uncovered. In cold weather<+5о) время безопасного хранения шкуры в таком виде около суток. В теплую (+18о) не более 3-5 часов. Не стоит солить такие шкуры, так как из оставшихся лап и головы будет излишний рассол, лучше обильно проложите шкуру пихтовым лапником. Ни в коем случае не укладывайте шкуру сразу в полиэтиленовый мешок, сначала в тканевый, а потом в полиэтиленовый. Ткань, впитывая влагу и кровь, предотвратит быстрое запревание эпидермиса, а полиэтилен сохранит салон вашего автомобиля.

When there is no possibility of a quick delivery of the skin to the taxidermist, then it is required to remove the hands, feet and head, and salt the skin. Here you need to be especially careful, if the Crocodile Dundee knife is in the hands of your skinner, then this does not bode well, you need a more modest tool. A lanceolate, sharp knife with a comfortable handle and a blade length of about 12 centimeters can be easily purchased at a hunting store. Have one of your own, it will come in handy.

On the hands and feet, an incision is made along the border of the callus, the fingers are carefully turned out one by one and separated from the skin along the joint between the last and penultimate phalanges. Thus, the last phalanx, along with the claw, remains on the skin, and so all twenty fingers. Care must be taken during this operation, as it is easy to cut the skin in the sinuses between the fingers.

When skinning a head, attention should be paid to the following aspects. Firstly, the ears - you need to separate the ear cartilages from the skull as close to the skull as possible, and secondly, you should try not to cut your eyelids, they should remain on the skin. Thirdly, lips - they must also be left on the skin. And lastly, the nose - the nasal cartilage of a bear is large enough to rot. The proposed figure indicates the place of separation of the "meat skull" from the skin, cutting the cartilage, make sure not to cut off the nose itself.

After the skull is separated, it is necessary to finish processing the skin of the head. The ear cartilages must be turned out by gently separating them from the skin at the back of the ear, a properly everted ear has one hole in the cartilage where it was separated from the skull (see figure). The mucous membranes of the lips and eyelids are carefully incised and twisted.

After the skin must be salted. Coarsely ground salt that does not contain iodine is suitable for salting, the amount of salt should be large enough. So, for example, an average bear with a body length of 160 cm requires at least seven kilograms of salt. The skin should be spread with the skin up and salted over the entire surface, rubbing salt into the skin. Fingers and hands are filled with salt, salt is also poured into the turned-back ears. Pay attention to the edges of the cut, they can turn up, and the salt will not get there.

Properly removed, processed and salted skin gives you some guarantee of its safety. Nevertheless, try to transfer the skin to the taxidermist as soon as possible, shifting the care and responsibility for further safety to him. Instead of waiting for the skin to remind you of itself with an unpleasant smell in the garage or on the balcony.

2. Mammals of medium and small size: For the manufacture of a carpet from a wolf, a wild boar, a lynx, a scheme of cuts similar to the scheme of skinning a layer from a bear is suitable. The rest of the processing and preservation requirements described above also remain (the paw brushes must be removed to the last phalanx, the ear cartilages should be turned out, the eyelids should be kept on the skin, the mucous membranes of the lips should be opened, etc.). The scheme of skinning from the back to a stuffed animal is somewhat different. The main incision does not connect with the auxiliary ones on the hind legs, and the incisions on the hind legs themselves are much smaller.

Hunting for wolves, wild boars and lynx is carried out during the cold season. Therefore, the head and lower parts of the limbs can be left in the skin, simply freezing it. Such skins do not need to be salted. When there is a strong minus on the street (<-20o), рысь или не крупного волка можно заморозить целиком, но учтите, не следует хранить добытый трофей в таком виде, заморозка лишь позволит не мараться в крови, и доставить зверя, в течение ближайших полутора - двух суток, таксидермисту.

Foxes, beavers, raccoon dogs and smaller animals should also be brought to the taxidermist in their entirety. If you do not have the opportunity to do this, or you yourself want to practice skinning, it can only be noted that for making stuffed animals, the skin from a fox, a raccoon dog is removed in the same way as from a wolf, and from beavers, martens, squirrels through one cut, running along the spine from the base of the tail to the middle of the back (see figure).

3. Trophy heads: In addition to carpets and stuffed animals, trophy heads are also made from animal skins, which adorn the walls of hunting interiors. In modern taxidermy, the concept of a trophy head means a full-fledged product in which the animal is exhibited from the tip of the nose to the shoulder girdle. Severed heads resting their ears against the wall are not an aesthetic sight. And to avoid this, it is necessary to leave the right amount of skin behind the head. The cut pattern indicated in the figure (behind the forelimbs) is suitable for making a trophy head from any kind of animal. These cuts (along the back side of the skin with subsequent bifurcation to the base of the horns) are necessary only for skinning the heads of horned animals. Roe deer are often skinned with a “stocking”, with such a shooting, you can simply separate the head from the carcass, leaving it in the skin. Then it will not be necessary to remove the skin from the head, making the indicated cut, but only cut off the required amount of skin behind the head (hereinafter referred to as the shoulder blades). You can leave your head uncut, with a large supply of skin, with an elk or a wild boar. The main thing is that it is cool, and the transfer of the material (skin) to the taxidermist is fast.

Birds: Birds, as well as medium-sized mammals, are best transferred to the taxidermist as a whole. One of the features of bird conservation is their feather cover. Feathers are very easy to damage. Therefore, if you decide to deliver a bird for the manufacture of a taxidermy product, then you don’t need to throw it at random into a bag, then into the trunk, and put a bunch of things on top. The result of such transportation will be a kind of lump of blood and feathers with broken and bent wings and tail.

After you have obtained the bird, inspect it for severe damage. If not, then the best method of transportation would be: put cotton or toilet paper in the beak, wrap the beak, head and neck with toilet paper. Tuck the wrapped neck and head under the wing, put several layers of paper under the second wing, press the wings to the body, fold the tail, wrap the whole bird in paper (for example, in a newspaper), trying not to wrinkle the tail and ends of the wings. The wrapped bird can be lowered into a sufficiently large plastic bag, with the tail up. In the same bag, for better preservation, it’s a good idea to add a few fir branches, the phytoncides contained in them inhibit bacteria that cause decay. It is better to store the bird packed in this way in a cool place. If it is warm outside, and your car is in the sun, you do not need to keep the game in a heated cabin. Duck, hazel grouse or black grouse packed and laid with fir, in a shady place at an air temperature of + 150C, can lie for a day. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of damage to the bird, if there are bleeding injuries, then they must be covered by inserting a piece of cotton wool into the wound or covering it with toilet paper. Game with a damaged belly is stored for a shorter time. In the cold season, birds can be frozen, having previously packed them. In any case, hand over the obtained trophy to the taxidermist as soon as possible.

Often hunters, being in the lands, meet birds of prey and owls, strive to get them. Remember - these are very few species, many of them are in the Red Book. Owls and hawks in the cold season accumulate near roads and settlements in search of mice, rats, pigeons and jackdaws. This creates a misleading impression of their numbers. Every time you aim at an owl, remember that our children have a real chance in the near future to hear their voice only on CDs and see them on DVD.

Fish: Both whole stuffed animals and trophy heads are made from fish, for making stuffed fish it is better to deliver the whole fish to the taxidermist, try not to damage the fins. To do this, press the dorsal, lateral, pectoral and anal fins to the body, put a lining of thick cardboard or fiberboard along the folded caudal fin. Wrap all fish in cling film. If it is not possible to do this, pack the fish in any other way possible, just take care of the safety of the fins, for example, the fish can be wrapped in a regular bag by laying a longer straight stick along its body. If you intend to go for a trophy far away, from where it will be impossible to deliver a whole fish in a short time, then consult with a taxidermist how best to deliver the trophy. To make a fish head, you need a supply of skin behind the head. It is required to cut off the head along the indicated line without damaging the fins. If it is not possible to freeze the head or quickly give it to the taxidermist, you need to remove the entrails and muscles from the side of the cut, the esophagus and gills should be left. To store the head for four to five days, carefully salt the part freed from the entrails and muscles, fill the mouth and voids under the gill covers with salt, then pour the salt into the bag and put the head there. The head preserved in this way should be stored in the coolest place available, handed over to the taxidermist as soon as possible.

HOW TO STORE THE SKIN - FROM HISTORICAL SOURCES

No matter how good the skin is, it can quickly deteriorate when lying down if special measures are not taken to store it.

The fresh skin is called steam room. For a tanner, there is no better skin than a steam room, especially if it is not stained with blood and dirt. But it is rarely possible to immediately send the skin to the factory or dress it yourself. And when lying, the steam skin quickly deteriorates. At first she shrinks, frowns, becomes horny. Then she starts to sing. Her hair is falling off. In the end, she completely rots. Therefore, something has to be done so that the skin is preserved without damage.

The best thing is to salt the skin, and such wet-salty skins are considered the most expensive. Although you need to buy salt for the salt, but then you will get more money for the skin and more than cover the money that you paid for the salt.

Before salting the skin, you need to clean it thoroughly. Where cattle are poorly looked after and kept in the mud, there is often a lot of manure on the skin adhering to the wool, the so-called bulk. Bulk spoils the skin and prevents the tanner from working. We must take care that it does not exist on live cattle, and it is better to keep cattle in a barn. If the peeled skin turned out to be in bulk, then before salting you should try to remove it. To do this, it is convenient to put the skin on the deck, and where it is not, then on an inclined board. The bulk is carefully upholstered with a wooden spatula or a blunt mezdryak, but certainly so as not to scratch or tear the fresh skin. If the bulk stuck so tightly that it cannot be knocked down, then you need to sprinkle salt over the wool in those places on the skin where the bulk remained.

Peeled hide you have to salt it.

Salt is taken fine, not buzun. For each skin is taken in winter from 8 pounds per pood of skin weight and up to 12 pounds in summer. Less salt is taken for a thin skin, and more for a thick one, but it is unreasonable to take less than what is said here. You will regret salt for a penny, and you will spoil the skin for rubles. Therefore, for a large ox skin, you will have to take from 14 to 16 pounds of salt in winter, and 20 to 25 pounds of salt in summer; 8-12 pounds will go for a cowhide in winter, and 12-15 pounds in summer.

The skin is placed on a clean place in the spread, with wool on the ground or on the floor. It is good to put some kind of lining under the skin so that sputum can drain from it. The whole skin is evenly sprinkled with salt from the inside: it is useful to grind the salt with your hand so that it sticks well to the skin. If the skin is properly salted, then after three days it will show solid salt. If all its salt has been absorbed, then it is necessary to add fresh salt. When the whole skin is evenly salted, the head and part of the skin at the tail are bent inward, as well as the floors at the edges. Then salt is sprinkled on the head and all the thick parts are also sprinkled with salt over the wool.

Now fold the whole skin into a bundle. You have to fold according to the rules. At first the fourth part of the skin is bent inward, starting from the head, then the right and left floors are bent to the middle, then the whole skin is folded along the ridge, then rolled up, starting from the head, into a bundle and tied with a tail or twine.

Five days later, the bundle is disassembled. The sputum is allowed to drain, lightly salted and rolled up again, as for the first time. If everything is done according to the rules, then the skin will lie for a long time and will not rot.

When, say, a lot of skins are collected at an artel, then you can salt in riots or stacks.

The first skin is salted on the floor in spreading, as has just been described. Then the whole skin is folded around, so that the head, paws and floors lie inside, and the whole skin around becomes like a saucer. All bent parts are sprinkled with salt over the wool, the head is especially carefully added. Then a second skin is placed so that the head does not fall on the head of the first skin, but next to it. Everything is done as with the first skin. The third, fourth, fifth and so on are placed on the second in the same way, each time salting everything well. Heads will lie in a circle one after another. Up to 200 skins can be stacked into such a riot. The brine in the riot should not flow to one side, which can happen if the skins are not properly distributed.

If the skin was * badly salted, then it ban. When the skin begins to rot, then hair will begin to come off it first of all. From time to time, you need to twitch your hair with your fingers. On a healthy skin, the hair sits firmly, and on a lean one, it immediately rips out easily.

A buckled hide is no good for a tanner.

If the skin begins to let out hair, then it can quickly rot. You can fix the matter if you disassemble the skins and salt them again. It is necessary to carefully monitor the hair so as not to be late with salting.

Wet-salted hides are the best, but sometimes it's hard to get enough salt. Then you can store the skins by drying them.

Drying skins done during the warm season.

The skin taken from the animal is hung on a pole with the wool inward along the ridge.

The pole is hung somewhere under a shed or in a barn, in the shade. You should never start drying the hide directly in the sun, because drying in the sun spoils the fresh, raw hide. She becomes horny from this, and then easily cracks and breaks. Only almost completely dried skin can be dried in the sun, and even then not in summer, but when the sun is not so hot. Many skins have been spoiled by improper drying in the villages.

You can’t dry the skins by spreading them on the ground, the only correct way is to dry them in the shade so that there is air on all sides. You can dry the skins of cows and horses. Almost always dried calf, sheepskin, goat and foal. They can also be dried in the winter in the hut.

However, it is much better to salt the flasks, as the Germans and Americans do, because then much better skins can be made from it.

During drying, the skin on the paws and cheeks of the muzzle shrinks. To avoid this, the paws and cheeks are straightened by inserting chips or splinters. Where the skin is adjacent to the pole, it is better to make linings so that air gets in there and the skin would not prop up along the ridge.

It happens that the whole skin has already dried up, but the head and thicker places have not dried up yet. Then you can expose the skin for a short time in the sun, covering it with matting, so that only the head dries openly in the sun.

In winter, it is difficult to dry the skins, and there is nowhere. Therefore, they are often freeze, but this should only be done as a last resort, when it is impossible to establish salting in any way. Very bad lumpy frozen skins, frozen right in the yard in the snow, because a lot of snow and dirt stick to them. Then, when the skin thaws, it is difficult to dress it. Better soldered frozen skins, which are frozen on poles in suspension, as in drying.

During transportation and disassembly, frozen skins easily crack and break. At the factory, they have to mess around a lot to put them into production. When the skin freezes, it becomes weaker. In the event of a thaw, especially during long-distance transportation, frozen skins easily deteriorate and rot.

There is another type of skin preservation, this is dry salting. The skins are first salted and then dried. Salt can be taken less than with wet salting.

Any prepared skin must be handled with care, not trampled on, not thrown anywhere, but stored in a safe place. Dry skins are almost the same as frozen ones, they break easily. Therefore, it is necessary to save the skins so that they lie in a cool, dry place, so that water does not drip on them through a thin roof, so that they do not get wet from below, so that moths do not start on dry skins and, in general, so that they do not deteriorate. If the skins have to lie down for a long time, then it is necessary to review them and shift them, if necessary, salt or air them.

Quite often, when preparing certain dishes, the hostess needs tomatoes. They contain a large amount of vitamins and other useful substances, and by themselves they have a pleasant taste and aroma.

It all depends on what dish you are cooking. Soup or tomato broth, tomatoes baked in the oven or fried in a pan, or maybe a platter of vegetables cooked on a fire?

Many experienced housewives know how to peel tomatoes with hot water. This method is the most popular and widespread. Let's take a closer look at it.

Remove the tomatoes and place them in cold water. Now, using a thin knife, grab the end of the skin and pull it. You will see how the skin itself is separated from the tomato.

Surely everyone knows how to blanch vegetables before freezing. Did you know that you can peel tomatoes very easily in this way? So, how to separate the skin from a tomato using blanching?

Nowadays, almost every home has such appliances as a microwave oven. It can not only help you reheat or defrost food, but also peel tomatoes. How to peel a tomato in the microwave?

Place the tomatoes on a flat-bottomed platter and make a few cuts in the tops. Place the vegetables in the microwave and turn on the keep warm setting for 30 seconds. During this time, under the influence of microwaves, the skin will heat up and begin to move away from the pulp itself. You just have to carefully remove it.

After that, using a sharp knife, remove the seeds from the pulp and gently rinse the tomatoes.

S h i m a m a s h u r k u .

All the subtleties and secrets of skinning a rabbit.

A small but important introduction.

Every rabbit breeder sooner or later faces such a specific task as skinning a rabbit. In my articles, I have already mentioned the importance of this stage, since rabbit skin, as a valuable commodity, can bring additional and considerable income to your treasury. Even despite the relative depreciation of the skins on the market in recent years, with the correct formulation of the question, it is possible to cover all the costs of purchasing feed through their sale. This will mean that all the meat grown will cost you almost for free, which, you see, is not bad at all.

There are many ways to skin a rabbit. This is primarily due to the traditions of a particular people and with various technologies for processing and further use. Now I will describe in detail only one, but the most common method in the CIS, which is called skinning a rabbit with a tube. The described technology makes it possible to sell skins with a very high degree of probability. If translated into simple human language, then this is a method in which the skin is not cut along the abdomen, but is removed approximately like a stocking from a leg. Drying and processing in the future such a skin is much easier.

With this method, on large farms, the rabbit is first decapitated, but we will not do this with you. Let's take the skin off the head. Although this is somewhat more complicated, but when implemented, you will receive a bonus in the form of an additional cost. I’ll make a reservation right away that nothing terrible will happen if you fail to complete the entire procedure flawlessly the first time. Most likely that upon receipt of the first experience there will be roughness. Do not be discouraged if you suddenly cut through the skin, stain it with blood, or cannot remove it correctly from the head of the rabbit. Experience will come quickly, but a spoiled skin will still be accepted, although at a cost of 3 or 4 categories.

Carcass hanging.

So, we take a just slaughtered and bled rabbit with urine removed, pre-cleaned fur and cut the skin on the hind legs in the area of the hocks. In this case, the knife must be sharply sharpened, since the skin has sufficient strength. One should not, however, apply super-large efforts when pressing, since in this case one of the thin tibia bones can be cut. As a result, difficulties may arise with further operations. Slightly lifting the skin and freeing the paws about 1.5 centimeters up the leg, we stick a special wooden spacer with pointed ends into them. The tree must be of hardwood so that the points can easily penetrate the muscle tissue with tendons. The length of this strut is selected so that the rabbit's hind legs together with it form an equilateral triangle, as it were. In this case, you will carry out further operations with the greatest convenience.

We hang the rabbit carcass by the middle of the spacer, adjusting the height according to our height. It is desirable that the rabbit is not at the level of your chest or slightly lower. Take care of the strength of the rope, as when removing the skin, you will have to apply some downward force. Since the tail of the rabbit is of no interest to us as a commodity, we cut it off. However, it is not necessary to do this, perhaps in your region the requirements of buyers and resellers are somewhat different.

Removing the skin from the hind limbs.

With the tip of a knife we make a U-shaped semicircular incision in the skin on the hind legs. It happens that the feet of a rabbit are very dirty, in this case we cut off the ends of the front paws at the carpal joint. The trail of the knife should start at one of the hocks, pass through the anus and end at the second hock. If the rabbit's legs are well separated with a properly selected spacer, then this will not seem difficult to you. Now it is possible to expose the hind legs, which must be done. Most likely, you will have to additionally make annular incisions around the anus and genital area. The smaller the diameter of these cuts, the better. But you can simply slip the blade under the crotch area jumper and cut the skin in this place, holding the blade in an upward direction.

Removing the skin from the body.

If everything is done correctly, then we proceed to the main stage - removing the skin from the body. Experienced rabbit breeders with a "full hand" carry it out in a few seconds. I do not advise you to rush, so as not to damage the goods. It should be noted that sometimes rabbits come across, from which the skin, due to some natural reasons, peels off very hard, even if the rabbit was slaughtered quite recently. Be prepared for this too.

The operation is very simple. We take two hands on the edges of the skin and pull it down. In this case, the fur is inside. Do not apply excessive force, this can lead to stretching of the skin, and therefore to its reduction in price. If necessary, we help to very carefully separate the skin from the body with our fingers, in extreme cases with a knife. At the same time, we do the trimming so that the rabbit fat in the layer mainly remains on the carcass. Once again, I want to remind you to be careful. It is better then to remove excess fat from the skinned skin with a knife set at 90 degrees to the surface (the safest) than to “admire” the damaged goods.

Removal of the skin from the forelimbs.

Next, we reach the forelimbs and tighten the skin alternately from each of them. To do this, we hold the skin with one hand, and with the other we take the front foot and, as it were, pull it out, slightly bending it at the joint. At the same time, the part of the skin adjacent to the foot should turn outward (with the fur inward). In order for the skin to completely peel off the limb, it is necessary at the end of the stretch to cut the foot with a knife just above the hock joint. Personally, I cut off the ends of the front legs immediately after I hang the rabbit. This not only simplifies the process itself, but also helps to keep the skin clean. Then we repeat the same with the other paw. The difference from the release of the hind limbs is that here it is not necessary to make incisions along the tarsus, we just pull it out. Sometimes it takes a lot of effort to do so.

Removing the skin from the head.

The next target is the head. The complexity of this stage is that it is necessary to make a series of incisions: in the area of the ears, nostrils, lips and eyes. Moreover, all cuts should be sufficient for the skin to separate well and at the same time as small as possible in diameter so that the skin has the highest value. Let's deal with the ears first. For example, I do not make special incisions, but simply cut off the ears. With certain skills, the holes will turn out to be quite small, but the process will noticeably speed up. The eyes will have to be tricky. If you have a well-sharpened knife and its tip is pointed, the operation will not seem overly complicated.

We repeat the same thing around the nostrils, after which we pull the skin all the way down, as a result of which it will hang, holding only on the lips. We carefully remove the last obstacle, trying to cut along the very edge, but not to grab the rabbit's whiskers.

That's all. The skin is separated, is in your hands. While it is still warm, try to remove all remnants of fat, meat and subcutaneous connective tissue, as well as ear cartilage, if any. It will be very difficult to remove them from the dried skin.

For clarity, I suggest watching the video:

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Skinning and dressing. (personal experience)

Good day, boys and girls! This is me, alive and healthy and not coughing.

I warn you right away, combat animal rights activists, people with a gentle psyche, zoophiles and pacifists, YOU CAN DO NOT READ FURTHER, you will feel bad.

Today we will talk about skinning and subsequent processing of skins. If someone hopes that under the conditions of Postap, synthetic winterizer and other insulating outrages will be produced, he is seriously mistaken. We will, like our ancestors, drive in fur coats and fur coats, well, those who survive.

But to tear off the skin is actually a trifling matter, but to process it is no small task. Therefore, you need to train in advance. I will share my experience, and then you somehow yourself.

First things first, you need to get a fur carrier (Fig. 1). For starters, a hamster or a rat is suitable. But it is better to take a hare or a forest, dogs and cats will also do, but this is not humane at the moment. I have not had to skin larger animals, but I think there will be a slight difference.

After you got the animal, we hang the trophy by the hind legs on a strong rope or wire. For convenience, you can also put the crossbar (Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.).

There are two ways of skinning: with a stocking and with a rug. In addition, we determine whether we will skin the head and paws, or we are only interested in fur. The trophy skin must be removed with the head, paws and claws, and preferably with a rug. So it will look beautiful on the wall, floor or chair (Fig. 4). I shoot with a stocking (Fig. 5).

For hygiene and convenience purposes, I recommend using gloves (Fig. 6).

For the speed of the removal process, I personally use a clerical knife (Fig. 7).

The cut is good, and sharpening is not necessary. If you're sanding indoors, lay down some plastic so you don't stain the floor.
We make the necessary cuts (Fig. 8).

Then, with our hands, we separate the skin from the carcass, if it doesn’t go, we help with a knife (we cut the film, fat and meat).
First, remove from the hind legs. If we have long-tailed living creatures, then we have to sweat. Carefully separate the skin with your hands in a circle from the back. From the side of the kakel (ass, chocolate eye) on the tail, we make a straight incision along the tail, 3-5 centimeters long (Fig. 8). We move the skin with one hand. With the fingers of the second hand we catch the tail at the base and carefully pull it out of the skin (Fig. 9).

It won't go right away. In general, this process is similar to pulling the strands from the cable braid (Fig. 10).

After the skin is removed from the tail, we make an incision on it along the entire length to the very tip, cutting off the tendons along the way, if any.
After the tail is released, we continue to pull the skin off the carcass, if necessary helping ourselves with a knife.
Having reached the skin to the front paws, release them, about the same as the tail.
We tighten the skin to the base of the skull and cut in a circle.
All skin removed. We throw it into a bucket or some other container. We remove the carcass and put it under a tree or wrap it in a film.
We take a pack of ordinary table salt and sprinkle the entire inner part of the skin very efficiently. Salt can not be spared, especially on the tail. We leave our skin for the night, let it be salted.
We take cold water, really cold, so that it hurts your teeth. Here in this water we dilute the detergent and furatsilin. For 5 liters of water, we throw 10 crushed tablets of furacilin. We lower the skin together with salt into the solution and begin to wash it. We rinse and squeeze. Washed for 10 minutes, leave the skin in water for half an hour or an hour.
We drain the water, hang the skin to drain. Pour a new portion of water and add 50 grams of vinegar 70% to it. 10 grams per liter of water. We rinse the skin in it for 5 minutes, leave it for 10 minutes.
We hang the skin again to drain, drain the water. We collect a new portion of water, but this time we add soda, for 5 liters 2-3 tablespoons. We rinse the skin in it and then leave it to soak for 10-15 minutes. This is necessary to neutralize the acid.
We hung out the skin and poured out the water. Now you just need to rinse it in water. Rinse and hang to drain.
While the water is draining, prepare the tools and rules. I use a plastic pipe as a guideline. But according to the mind, a wooden rule is needed (Fig. 11).

We stretch the skin with the skin outward (fur inside) on the rule (Fig. 12 and Fig. 13).

We take a knife and with the blunt side we begin to scrape off the mezra, our task is to clean the skin from the remnants of meat, fat, films and tendons, and also to expel the subcutaneous fat. The process is long and messy. I start cleaning from the head, although my friend always cleans from the tail. Why blunt side? And in order not to overdo it, the skin of the living creatures is thin, you will get carried away and you can accidentally cut off the layer of skin in which the hair bulbs are. Accordingly, the wool will stupidly come out. In addition to the blunt side of the knife, you can use a spoon or a metal plate. No need to try to clean the mezra along the entire length at once. It is better to clean in small areas. After all the films and lumps are removed, we once again go through the skin with iron, we need to expel fat and dirt as much as possible. The quality of the skin directly depends on this.
We remove the srach and tools. Again we collect cold water with detergent, rinse and wash the skin. And this time we turn it inside out to wash off everything that is possible. Then rinse in clean water and hang to drain (Fig. 14).

While the water is draining, prepare the pickle (Fig. 15 and Fig. 16).

For 1 liter of water, add 30 grams of vinegar 70% and 30 grams of table salt. Stir until the salt is completely dissolved. In the resulting solution we lower the skin (fur inside). The stink is still the same, so we breathe through time. We rinse the skin a couple of times and leave it in this syrup (Fig. 17).

Pickling time is 12 hours minimum and 24 hours maximum. The larger the animal and the thicker its skin, the longer it must be fermented.
While our skin is fermenting, we make a frame for drying (Fig. 18).

If the skin is removed with a rug, we need a square frame, if with a stocking, triangular. Wood can be used as a material, I used plastic pipes (Fig. 19).

After 24 hours, we take out the skin and hang it to drain. We pour the pickle somewhere far away. Because it just stinks.
We collect clean water. Add soda to it, about 1 tablespoon per liter. And put the skin in there. We rinse and squeeze the skin. Our task is to neutralize acetic acid. Drain the water and pour in a new portion of cold water, rinse again. And so 2-3 times, until the wild acetic stench becomes tolerable. On the last rinse, you can add shampoo, well, so that the fur is beautiful and lush. Do not forget to regularly turn the skin so that it is washed evenly.
Pulls out the skin and hangs to drain. Getting the thread and needle ready. Once the bulk of the water is glass. We sew up the holes left by the shot and cuts. I sew with a regular mattress suture. By the time you finish sewing, the water will drain.
Gently stretch the skin on the frame, fur inside (Fig. 20).

We straighten the fur on the tail so that it dries out (Fig. 21).

And let dry. It is NOT ALLOWED to dry the skins in direct sunlight, near the stove, battery and other heating and heating devices. An ideal place is the entrance hall, especially if there is a draft.
As it dries, the skin must be removed and kneaded in the hands (Fig. 22).

Who went to shit with the newspaper, knows what I mean. Yes, yes, in this way, gently and gently knead the dry areas of the skin. After about 12 hours, turn the skin inside out with the fur (Fig. 23).

Let the fur dry now. Do not forget to knead the skin in dry places. Well, in principle, we repeat the trick with eversion and kneading every 6-12 hours until completely dry.
When the skin and fur are completely dry, turn the skin inside out with the fur inside and apply, without hesitation, liquid glycerin to the entire surface of the skin. You can do this with a swab from a bandage or a brush. Let the glycerin soak in and turn the skin inside out. We take a comb or a clean shoe brush and comb the fur. Our task is to comb out excess fluff and hairs from it. This is best done outdoors or with the vacuum cleaner turned on.
That's basically it, the skin is ready for further use (Fig. 24).

If the vinegar smell remains, but it stays stsuko, you can hang the skin in the garage or hallway, let it hang, breathe, and weather.

PS: If the carcass of the animal is frozen, put it in a warm place, but away from heat sources, let it thaw by itself.

ZYY: The main thing from all of the above: water should be cold or icy, hot or warm water will lead to baldness of the skin; clean the skin with a blunt object; we work in rubber gloves, it is hygienic, warm and hands do not stink afterwards; the skin does not need to be squeezed out, the maximum can be slightly squeezed.

ZYYY: Some of the photos were taken from the World Wide Web, using Yandex search. For which I apologize to the authors of photographs and drawings, your authorship will remain a secret.

Thank you for your attention!