Traditional French cuisine. English cuisine: famous dishes and traditions A French dish invented by an English writer
It was firmly planted in the minds of book lovers that D'Artagnan loved Angevin wine, and Pontius Pilate liked Falerno wine. James Bond adored bechamel sauce, and Chichikov ate brains with peas in a tavern. To describe - not to cook, the pages of novels are full of unusual dishes. Especially good for science fiction. It is necessary to feed the heroes on an alien planet - once, and there is an edible luminous moss. Sometimes writers “revive” forgotten dishes, sometimes they find real, but exotic ones. And it happens that the food of your favorite heroes, which did not exist before, someone brings to life. So, let's make an approximate menu of a literary restaurant.
1. Cream "Margo"
Remember how Ostap Bender consoled Kisa Vorobyaninov: “We will wear cambric footcloths, eat Margo cream.” But does this cream really exist? In the era of Ilf and Petrov, this was not done. But there was Margo ice cream from the popular cookbook by Fanny Merry Farmer. The recipe went like this:
Fill a champagne glass with vanilla ice cream. Top it with whipped cream sweetened with pistachio syrup for a delicate greenish tint. Garnish the ice cream with pistachios and Malaga grapes cut in half. Since ice cream in English is ice-cream, Ostap Bender was not very mistaken. However, today you can find on the Internet a lot of recipes and the cream famous in the novel.
2. Dragee "Bertie Botts"
There are a lot of memorable dishes in the world of Harry Potter. Wizards love firewhisky and butterbeer, kids love Fortescue ice cream, hopping chocolate frogs and, of course, Bertie Botts. Harry Potter tries it for the first time on the train, on his way to Hogwarts School of Wizardry.
"You be careful," Ron advised, noticing that Harry had taken a bag of dragees in his hands. - It says that they have very different tastes, and so, this is the true truth. No, there are quite normal flavors there - orange, say, or chocolate, or mint, but sometimes you come across spinach, or kidneys, or offal. George claims that he somehow came across a snot-flavored candy.
Today you can freely buy multi-colored "Bertie Botts", however, without too radical tastes. And I drank butter beer in Lviv in the Harry Potter cafe. Tasty!
3. Stew from the Sister Islands
George Martin in his cycle of novels "A Song of Ice and Fire" relish described the cuisine of the inhabitants of Westeros. In response to requests from fans of the saga, a gastronomic guide to the world of Game of Thrones has been released. Many dishes are based on real recipes of medieval cuisine, but it is proposed to replace dragon eggs or camel meat with available ingredients. There is a wild bull baked with leeks in the book, locusts with spiced honey, Black Castle salad, frozen blueberries with Bastard cream ... Here, for example, is a stew from the Sister Islands:
“There was brown beer, dark bread, stew the color of cream. She served it in a pot made from a hollowed-out stale carpet. The broth was rich, with leeks, carrots, barley and turnips in two colors: white and yellow, and in this stew generously seasoned with cream and butter, you could taste shellfish and cod, crab meat. It was food that warmed to the very bones - just what the soul asked for on a rainy cold evening.
4. Moose Lips in Sweetened Vinegar
In Vladimir Korotkevich's Dzikim Palyavanni Karal Stakh, the intelligent Andrey Beloretsky comes to visit Pan Dubotovka and finds himself at a violent gentry feast.
"What about the geta?" - I'll try, torkayuchy videltsam near neshta tsemnae on talers.
Kakhanenki you are mine, geta lasinyya lips ў padsalodzhan votsatse. Esh, brother, clash. Geta Strava for the Volatians. Our products, land for their fluff, were not bad. Yes, abavyazkova ix yes.
Whether such a dish was real - elk lips in sweetened vinegar, opinions were divided. But it went to wander through historical literature, decorating the tables of gentry heroes. The delicacy, by the way, is still real, however, it is usually cooked differently.
5. Curdled cream
During one of the journeys, the hero of Stanislav Lem, astronaut Iyon Tikhiy, ends up on the planet Entevropia, where some sepulks are the basis of civilization.
“In vain did I try to understand what it could be; Finally, around midnight, while refreshing myself with smoked cream in a bar on the eightieth floor of a department store, I heard the hit "Ah, a little sepulka" performed by an Ardritian singer.
What are sepulki, Iyon and we will never know. And the curdled cream alludes to another stronghold of Enteropian civilization - the curdles. “Since this animal, in the process of evolution, has adapted to meteorite precipitation, having built up an impenetrable shell, the Kurds are hunted from the inside. To hunt Kurdles, you need: a) at the introductory stage - priming paste, mushroom sauce, green onions, juice and pepper; b) at the decisive stage - a rice whisk, a time bomb. The hunter smears himself with pasta and sauce, the curdle swallows it... Then it's a matter of technique: set up a bomb and use pepper to make the animal vomit. The mentioned kurdel cream testifies that the natives not only live in kurdels and eat them, but also receive milk from them.
6. Leeches from chocolate dough
The hero of Volkov's children's book Urfin Deuce and His Wooden Soldiers decided to take the place of his deceased mistress, the evil sorceress Gingema. However, the evil wizard is supposed to eat mice and leeches. To confirm his authority, Oorfene conceives a deception.
“The courtiers trembled when they saw what the cook had brought. On one dish stood a pile of smoked mice with twisted tails, on the other lay black slippery leeches...
In the deathly silence of those present, Oorfene ate several smoked mice, and then raised a leech to his lips and it began to writhe in his fingers.
But how surprised the audience of this unusual picture would be if they learned a secret known only to the king and the cook. The magical food was an elaborate forgery. The mice were made from tender rabbit meat. Leeches Baluol baked from sweet chocolate dough, and dexterous fingers of Oorfene Deuce made them wriggle.
7. Lebmas
Remember how Tolkien's hobbits were rescued on the way to Mordor by elven bread received from the beautiful Galadriel? This bread is called lembas and is made especially for long journeys. It is light, does not get stale, does not lose its qualities, but quickly replenishes strength. Thin cakes, crumbly, light brown on the outside and cream-colored on the inside, are kept wrapped in mallorn leaves. A small piece of lembas is enough for the whole day. The recipe is strictly guarded by elves. Tolkien fans have even calculated the calorie content of lembas: one cake should contain 2.638 calories.
8. Herakliophorbia-4
Eccentric scientists from HG Wells' novel "Food of the Gods" come up with a substance that can accelerate the growth of a living being. It is called "Heracliophorbia-4", or "Food of the Gods". Alas, the miracle powder, which was tried to replace food or use as a supplement, brings untold disasters. Initially, guinea pigs and wasps, worms and rats that accidentally got to the powder turn into monsters and terrorize people. Then the people raised to become giants go crazy and start behaving aggressively. In general, the author honestly warned humanity against all kinds of food additives.
9. Eternal candy
Willy Wonka's Factory from Roald Dahl's Charlie and the Chocolate Factory produces Smile Candy, Jam Gin and Egg Egg, Exploding Hard Candy, Glowing Candy for Nighttime Eating, Down with the Dentists Filling Hard Candy, Invisible Chocolates for Class Eating, Gum replacing a three-course meal.
But the main invention is the eternal candy. It looks like a big green glass ball.
"Eternal lollipops! said Mr Wonka proudly. - My novelty! I came up with them for kids who don't have much pocket money. You put the eternal lollipop in your mouth and you suck and you suck and you suck and you suck and you suck, but it doesn’t shrink a bit!”
10. Signature Dish of the restaurant "At the End of the Universe"
In the restaurant "At the End of the Universe" the heroes of the novel by Douglas Adams meet the main local feature - the Signature Dish.
Who hasn't heard of sophisticated and sophisticated French cuisine?
This recognized postulate was lost somewhere in the back of our subconscious and, having arrived for the first time in France, we by no means became fans of delicious French cuisine. Then we set ourselves the task of getting acquainted with the architectural, historical and artistic traditions of the country. Culinary delights of noble French cuisine, alas, passed us by. We were even somewhat disappointed in the gastronomic traditions of France, expecting that after tasting one dish from the main menu, we would be full and satisfied, as it was in Poland. This was our mistake.
The main feature of French cuisine is just the combination of several dishes, the combination of tastes, the juxtaposition of one dish against the background of another. That is why in all restaurants and decent establishments in France, the so-called “menu” is first of all offered in the list of dishes served - this is a set of three to six dishes (depending on the cost and level of the restaurant).
The proposed combination of dishes is recognized by the French as ideal. As a rule, menu dishes can be varied - in each set there is a choice of two or three separate dishes. But dishes from two different (albeit identical in cost) menus cannot be replaced in any case. Because, for example, after eggs in Burgundy for a snack, in no case, according to the French, you should not eat fish or pork. Only duck meat or beef, which are offered on the menu with Burgundy eggs.
At the end of the meal, you will usually be offered several types of cheese. Lunch or dinner can end with them. But often after cheese, the menu also includes a sweet dessert in the form of ice cream, cake or the famous French creme brulee.
– What, you can’t order any particular dish in restaurants in France? the inexperienced reader will ask. The answer is obvious - you can. But! From our own experience, we have seen that these dishes are offered as an addition to the menu (a certain set of dishes). The portions are quite small and for a traveler who is hungry during the day, they are more likely to kindle hunger than satisfy it.
It was this mistake that we made on our first visit to France, which we called. We ordered some separate dish, considering the menu too expensive. As a result, we remained half-starved and, returning home, hastily stated that “there is nothing to eat in France”.
Having spoken in this way a couple of times in authoritative circles, we were considered almost insane. After that, we thought hard about French cuisine. And before the second trip to France (doesn't there happen wonderful coincidences in life), different sources simultaneously whispered to both the Head of the Expedition and the Journalist the name of Peter Mail, an English writer who sang of France (Provence) in general and famous French cuisine in particular. We read The Fork and Corkscrew Journey with gusto and on our second trip, we set off with the theoretically savvy and heavily armed advice of Peter Meil.
Even despite the double rise in price of the euro, in ours we firmly decided to get to know the incomparable French cuisine well. And also to give their own French gastronomic experience wide publicity. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to read the article on an empty stomach. Because there is no trace left of our former skepticism towards the culinary traditions of France.
In this article, we are going to praise French cuisine to the skies and show photos of dishes.
So, we will omit our dinner in the Alsatian town due to the fact that German customs in Alsace are very strong and it is only a stretch to call Alsatian dishes French. We invite you immediately to Burgundy. It was from a small village restaurant that our admiration for delicious French cuisine began.
Burgundy. Restaurant d'Auxous
Address: Route D 18 21320 Vandenesse-En-Auxois.
After some deliberation, we settled on the expensive menu "Bourguignon" for 36 euros, which includes white and red wine
and a menu for 24.5 euros called "Terror".
The experiment with French cuisine was not entirely pure, because we shared incomparable dishes with each other and, undoubtedly, committed culinary blasphemy over the combination of flavors of various dishes. But we do not yet consider ourselves gourmets, the main task for us was not just to get enough, but to appreciate as many delights of French cuisine as possible.
We were served by a respectable lady. I suspect she is the owner of the establishment. Short, lean despite her age, dressed in a noble plain dress that barely covered her knees, she seemed, if not beautiful, then very attractive. She limped slightly on one leg. But this did not prevent her from quickly and deftly bringing dishes and with dignity to remove the plates, ask our opinion about the cuisine of the restaurant and, with a barely perceptible smile and satisfaction, thank for our superlatives of adjectives. Madame spoke three languages, her native language was German. Having learned in what language we prefer to communicate, she addressed me in English, to the Chief in French.
Without further ado, I invite you to visually admire French cuisine with a hint of Burgundy.
We started with drinks. In addition to wine, the expensive menu included kir - a cocktail made from white wine (aligoté) with the addition of blackcurrant liqueur.
The “Terroir” menu did not include drinks at all, and our prudent madam asked the Chief if he wanted kir?
- Certainly! he exclaimed, overjoyed at this addition.
Then came appetizers (hors d'oeuvre) -
From my son, who at one time worked as a cook in the Fish Boutique restaurant on Petrovka, I heard that this is the most delicious dish he has ever tasted. I was a little afraid of them, fearing that I could not cope with the shell. But you see the snail feed, my fears were in vain. For the first time in my life, I appreciated the tender, melting in the mouth pulp of gastropods. And I could not resist, instead of half a serving, I meanly ate 7 pieces, which terribly upset the Chief, who, if possible, honestly shared the Burgundy eggs with me.
We slowly savored the ordered delicacies, rolled noble kir in our mouths - we tried this wonderful cocktail for the first time. After a short pause after the appetizer, we were brought hot almost at the same time.
Instead of a tongue, you could order chicken with porcini mushrooms, but the tongue sounded more refined, and they settled on it.
The second hot dish was
The picture shows that the side dish for meat is served the same as for the tongue. A few pieces of beef simmered very well, turned out to be soft and tender. The gravy was a bit like goulash, but it was a little thicker, spicier, with a delicate aftertaste of some kind of herb. Is it not the one that adorns the dish on top?
We noted that clean forks and knives were brought to us with each dish. I suspect that the plates were warmed before serving.
We washed down the pieces sent to the mouth with wine and watched how Madame served the English company that came after us. Judging by the fragments of phrases, the customers were familiar with the hostess. We discussed the results of the day, exchanged impressions about the events and looked forward to the end of the dinner.
After letting us talk and drain our glasses (for the cheese we left some in jugs), Madame asked about cheeses. His choice was not difficult, he was small. Each menu came with three different varieties. We chose epuas, which is considered a local culinary highlight, dor blue, goat and vintner's cheese.
There is no note about the winemaker's cheese in the road logbook, but I wrote about goat's cheese that it is very tender and tasty. Epuas and dor-blue we have previously appreciated.
With the choice of desserts, Madame put us in a slight confusion. She offered a whole list of sweets!
After the family meeting, our desserts took shape in
Coup Bourguignonne (cou bourguignon) - ice cream and blackcurrant sorbet and creme brulee.From the hour we entered the restaurant to the time we asked Madame to bring the bill, almost two hours had passed. There was no agonizing wait. All dishes were brought with the necessary and sufficient pause to enjoy the first and fully prepare the taste buds for the meeting with the next. Add to our delight a completely charming half-empty restaurant hall in a well-restored old barn.
We took a seat by the fireplace.
I removed our table before the meal began.From time to time, apparently, the husband of the hostess approached the fireplace and stirred the huge burning logs with special tongs. The hosts turned on the sound recording of a magnificent selection of classical music and we were happy to recognize the melodies of P.I. Tchaikovsky.
We gladly added a five-euro note to our 64 euro bill.
As it turned out, this dinner was almost half the price of our next ones. And, perhaps, the most memorable, because it became revolutionary in our attitude to French cuisine, turning our wary attitude towards it.
We found this restaurant, lost in the province of Burgundy, on the recommendation of the owner of the boarding house, where we stayed for two nights in the town of Maconge.
The restaurant has its own website, you can read information about it in three European languages, except for French - in German and English: http://www.restaurantdelauxois.fr/
Our kind André recommended another restaurant that we passed the next morning leaving Burgundy. Moreover, he made a remark that the restaurant de l’Auxous (d’Osua) is simpler, and de la Poste (de la Poste) in the neighboring regional center of the town is more refined and more expensive.
The kitchen of the first one led us into indescribable delight and we were surprised to think: “What could be more refined?” Just in case, we took a picture of the sign of the restaurant de la Poste in Pouilly en Auxous.
A couple of days later, we experienced no less delight in the town of Quiberon, located on the peninsula of the same name. It was a sin to miss the chance and not have dinner at the restaurant on the first floor of the Port Aligen Hotel (Port-Haliguen).
The restaurant is called "Atlantic" (l'Atlantique)
Quiberon. Restaurant “Atlantic” (l’Atlantique)
10 Place de Port Haliguen | 56170, 56170 Quiberon, France.
This restaurant, as well as the Burgundy de l’Auxous (d’Osua), was included in the family’s golden collection. Before presenting the dishes of our meal, I would like to say a couple of kind words about the Atlantic waiter.
You can call him Afro-French already with a big stretch, only by the color of his skin. For some reason, we thought that he was a real Frenchman, born and raised in France - in the manner of holding, talking, barely perceptible pride. It is obvious that he has been working in this restaurant for a long time, obviously has a special education. He knew Atlantic cuisine well, confidently recommended this or that dish to us and explained why it was worth ordering. We even envied the professionalism of a person who knows, loves and is proud of his work. Largely thanks to the advice of the waiter, our ordinary dinner became a real holiday. On FB, he maintains a restaurant page. From there I borrowed his wonderful pictures.
This time we ordered one menu for 36 euros.
The second decided to collect separate dishes.
We started with our favorite kir. (Subsequently, I did not miss a single opportunity to enjoy a low-alcohol cocktail with a clear aroma of blackcurrant).
As a compliment, we were offered olives - visible in the picture below
and watermelon mousse. Cold, slightly sweet, he pleasantly refreshed the tongue and prepared for the next meal.
Before serving the dishes, our waiter poured rosé wine (he advised) into a special jug. He did it gracefully, effortlessly. We involuntarily admired the confident hand movements.
Carpaccio with Parmesan
brought a minute earlier than langoustines with mayonnaise.
I dealt with them confidently.
The langoustines are always served with a bowl of water, in which a little lemon juice is added to rinse the hands.
This dish is served with mayonnaise, the bowl with it is clearly visible in the picture. True, unlike domestic, more liquid than thick mayonnaise, I enjoyed the sauce, which in consistency was more like soft butter.
Hot again served just in time - we finished with appetizers, slowly sipped wine, enjoying the fresh sea air and fell silent for a while. It seemed that the waiter was waiting for this pause. She seemed to serve as a signal to him that right now we need to entertain us with the next dish.
Look out for locally baked bread. We ate with him the mayonnaise left over from the langoustines and enjoyed the separately served garlic oil.
The case ended with two desserts. Cheese from local producers.
When asked about the type of cheese, the waiter said such tricky names that the Chief could not reproduce them and we asked for help to write them down: “Brain de Noix”, “Sune de Gouvent”, “Gallet de louze”, “Ti Manoix”.
We especially liked the walnut cheese. The waiter explained what the monks were making. They pour walnut liqueur over a large head of cheese. This shrinks the cheese and produces small disks of very tasty cheese. Moreover, the waiter, when he brought the cheeses, explained which one to eat first, which one to try later and which one to finish.
The second dessert looks like an ordinary cake.
Praline croquette - that's how it's called. The most delicate layer of praline was decorated with delicious fragrant strawberries (gobbled up before the picture), transparent pieces of apple, it clearly felt a nutty flavor.
The second acquaintance with French cuisine cost us 102.5 euros. Probably, at home we could not afford such an expensive dinner (1 euro in September 2015 cost 80 rubles). Here we smiled and thought about how good it is that we can afford such a dinner while traveling.
In terms of time, dinner took the same two hours as in de l'Auxous (d'Auxois). After a meal at the Atlantic on Quiberon, our ardent love for French cuisine began to turn into a tender deep feeling. Which was reinforced by a glorious dinner in the town of Pont-Aven.
Ever since the Belgian, and then the first French trip, I really liked mussels. It was not possible to eat enough of them because of the desire to order various unfamiliar dishes, and then divide them for two. While in Brittany, I firmly decided to gobble up a whole dish of mussels and confidently invited the Chief to dinner with them. Moreover, a dish with potatoes cost from 9 to 11 euros, depending on the method of cooking mussels. I was ready to part with 22 euros for the pleasure of savoring a whole bowl of marine reptiles alone. Such an opportunity soon presented itself in Pont-Aven.
In a completely charming town, on the banks of a stream with many branches, we spotted a cozy establishment.
Pont Aven. Le Fournil Restaurant
Address: 13 Rue Gén de Gaulle, 29930 Pont-Aven.
True, it was not possible to limit ourselves to mussels alone. The boss decided to go for a walk and ordered a cheese salad
and tart tatin with camembert,
naively believing that you will not be full of mussels alone. The appetizers were a success. The cheese salad was served with three different types of cheese on toast and bread. In the salad, in addition to green leaves, a coarsely chopped egg, an apple, a cucumber and a tomato were found.
There were no special notes about tarte tatin in the logbook, but I suppose everything is clear from the picture.
Our mussels were not long in coming.
Mussels are always served with french fries. What is the reason for the jokes.
Please note that there are special saucepans with deep lids for serving mussels. They serve for folding shells there.
The Le Fournil restaurant did not differ in any special interior.
At lunchtime, we were very lucky that we not only found a free place, but the most comfortable place, in a corner, near the wall.
Downstairs, one of the Aven's arms rustled merrily.
The menu is the simplest, large laminated sheets.
Yes, I almost forgot. How could we do without wine? It was brought with salted peanuts.
In France, the driver is not forbidden to drink a glass of wine. In addition, we were still going to walk around the city.
We have already taken the result of the account for granted.
On this trip, cafe-restaurants, we did not allow ourselves every day. We survived with self-sufficient snacks with cheese, wine, terrines, fruits and other products inaccessible to us at home. After such a hearty dinner in Pont-Aven, even after 5-6 hours we still could not eat. Affected calorie mussels.
And we began to realize what the “joys of life” are, which the French do not skimp on. Among them is good food in restaurants, such dishes that you want not only to absorb, but to savor and enjoy them. Good food takes not only money, but also time to feel the combination of different tastes. And you can hardly cook good food at home. Such a responsible matter as French cuisine should be entrusted only to a specialist. Peter Mayle revealed to us the theory of French cuisine. On a trip to France, we saw this in practice with our own eyes.
Making an excursion into the history of cooking, in an endless series of dish names, you can find the names of famous writers. The great chefs of the past named their culinary masterpieces after the writers, and some dishes received a “literary name” because they were preferred by gourmet writers.
The great culinary specialist of the last century, Auguste Escoffier, liked to give his dishes the names of famous personalities, including writers. In his "Culinary Guide" you can find beef Saute “Tolstoy”, scrambled eggs 
tunya “Balzac”, jelly “Maupassant” and etc.
Charles Ranhofer, head chef at the iconic Delmonico restaurant, prepared for Charles Dickens' visit to New York in 1867 “veal pie a la Dickens” and “beet pancakes a la Dickens”.
The menu of his restaurant also included "Dumas salad".
The signature omelet by chef Jean Baptiste Virlogeux at the London Savoy restaurant was named after the English writer Arnold Bennett (you can see the recipe for it here).
And do you know that dessert in the form of tubes with whipped cream or cream in Austria they call ... "Schiller's curls" ( Schillerlocken)?
Such an unusual name is associated with a portrait of Friedrich Schiller, painted by the artist Anton Graff in 1786. Copies and engravings from the painting were widely distributed at the end of the 18th century and gave the name to the popular dessert. Now this portrait is in the Dresden Kügelgenhaus Museum.
Now we offer you 3 prescriptionnamed dishes, from which you can make an original "literary lunch" with dessert.
1. Yokai soup
Bean soup"Jokai" got its name in honor of the classic of Hungarian literature Mora Jokai (1825 - 1904). A popular novelist and one of the most influential figures in Hungarian literature of the 19th century, he wrote more than 110 novels, short stories, plays and poems during his long creative life. The most famous in his heritage are “Hungarian nabob”, “Zoltan Karpaty”, “Sons of a man with a stone heart”, “Nameless Castle”, “Golden Man”. His short story "Saffy" formed the basis of the operetta "The Gypsy Baron" by Johann Strauss.
At home, Mor Yokai is known not only as a literary classic, but also as a fine connoisseur of good cuisine. Yokai's wife, the famous dramatic actress Róza Benke Laborfalvi, loved to cook and often pampered her husband and his guests with hearty and delicious meals. One of Mora Yokai's favorite dishes was a soup made from beans according to a special recipe. It was this soup that got the name of the writer.
The recipe for Jokai bean soup is taken from the Little Hungarian Cookbook by Karoly Gundel, the founder of Magyar cooking. His cookbook became a bestseller and went through 40 reprints in 20 languages.
Yokai Soup Ingredients
”:
180 gr beans
300 gr smoked sausage
smoked pork leg - 1 pc.
1 medium onion
1 st. l flour
3 tbsp pork fat
3 gr paprika
1-2 carrots
1 tomato
150 gr green pepper
150 gr sour cream
parsley root, bay leaf
Garlic to taste
30 gr chipette ( homemade soup dough)
Rinse the beans thoroughly and soak overnight. Pork leg pour about 1.5 liters of water and cook until it becomes completely soft.
The next day, remove fat from the surface of the broth in which the leg was boiled and fry in it.
sliced carrots and parsley root. Add beans to them (along with the water in which they were soaked) and the broth in which the pork leg was cooked. Season with bay leaf, a little garlic, finely chopped green pepper and tomato and cook with the lid closed. Salt, as a rule, is not necessary, because. smoked pork broth is very salty.
Fry the sausage and cut it into thin slices. In sausage fat, make a white dressing, add finely chopped onion and, at the last moment, paprika. Pour the dressing into the soup when the beans in the soup are soft.
Mix sour cream with a spoonful of flour and add to the soup, then put the cap and sausage circles in the same place. Let it boil again.
Before serving the soup, cut the meat from the pork leg into small cubes and arrange on plates.
If the soup is too sour, you can add a little sugar to it.
Chipetka ( homemade soup dough )
Name chipette test comes from the Hungarian word "chipkedni", which means - pluck. To prepare such a dough, you will need 80 grams of flour, 1 egg and salt.
Knead a stiff dough from flour, eggs and salt (without water). Roll it out on a floured board into a sheet about 1 mm thick, then pinch off shapeless pieces about the size of a fingernail from it with floured hands. Boil these pieces in a boiling soup. When the chips are ready (after 3-4 minutes), they float to the surface.
(More about personalized soups can be read).
The Chateaubriand steak is named after Viscount Francois Rene de Chateaubriand (1768 - 1848), a writer and diplomat who entered the literary pantheon of France as the first representative of romanticism. The influence of Chateaubriand on French literature is enormous (“ I want to be Chateaubriand or nothing once proclaimed the young Victor Hugo).
The “father of romanticism” got into the history of cooking thanks to the juicy steak named after him. There is a legend that recipe beef steak invented by the viscount's personal chef in 1822, when Chateaubriand served as ambassador to London.
According to legend, the steak was prepared by frying several steaks stacked one on top of the other over an open fire. When the outer steaks were charred, they were simply thrown away. This method ensured that the steak cooked evenly and retained its juiciness. It is interesting that such a recipe was used - a brilliant artist and, moreover, a skilled chef.
Served with Chateaubriand steak sauce from white wine, demi-glace, shallots, lemon juice and tarragon, also called “chateaubriand”, and as a side dish - oval-shaped potatoes the size of no more than an olive (!), fried in oil.
Now Chateaubriand is prepared from a large piece of tenderloin up to 1.5 kg, which is served whole and slices are cut off from it already on the table. The second cooking option is a piece of beef tenderloin at least 5 cm thick (“ two fingers”) are fried in a very hot pan for 2 minutes. on each side, and then bring to readiness in the oven. Before cooking, the meat can be marinated in olive oil with a little pepper for several hours.
3. Cake (cake) Runeberg
Cake or Runeberg cake - traditional Finnish dessert in the form of a cylindrical cake with sugar icing and raspberry jam. It got its name in honor of the Finnish national poet Johan Ludwig Runeberg (1804-1877). He entered the history of Finnish literature as an epic and lyric poet, and the author of the national anthem. During his lifetime, he became the first great man of Finland. Runeberg's popularity is so widespread that the poet's birthday on February 5 is celebrated as a national holiday.
There is a legend that the recipe for the popular cake was invented by the poet's wife, Frederika, although back in the 18th century, a similar dessert was prepared by confectioner Lars Asterius from the city of Porvoo. However, for the first time a cooking recipe runebergintorttu was published in 1850, in a book of home furnishing advice written by the poet's wife. Johan Ludwig Runeberg himself considered the cake of his name to be the best breakfast and always supplemented it with a small glass of fragrant Finnish liqueur Punssi.
Runeberg cake recipe
Ingredients
:
1 egg
75 gr sugar
100 gr butter
50 ml cream
200 ml flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
50g chopped almonds (or walnuts)
1 teaspoon vanilla sugar
1 teaspoon Amaretto liqueur
Traditionally, cakes are baked in a special form in the form of a cylinder with a diameter of 5 cm and a height of about 6-7 cm. As an alternative, cake pans are 5 cm in diameter and 5 cm in height.
Melt the butter and let it cool down a bit. Whip cream to soft peaks. Beat eggs with sugar, adding liqueur, melted butter and whipped cream.
Mix the dry ingredients and, adding to the butter - egg mass, knead the dough.
Lightly grease muffin tins and pour batter into them. Place the molds on a baking sheet and bake the cakes at 175-200°C for 15-20 minutes.
While the cupcakes are baking, make a sugar syrup with 100 ml of sugar, 50 ml of water and 1 to 2 tablespoons of rum or cognac.
Mix raspberries and sugar (100 g raspberries - fresh or frozen and 50 g sugar), bring to a boil and simmer for about 15 minutes. The mixture should be thick. You can use ready-made raspberry jam.
Prick the finished cupcakes with a toothpick and fill with warm syrup. Leave for 1-2 hours for the syrup to absorb.
Using a teaspoon, cut a small hole in each cake, filling it with raspberry jam and decorating with a circle of icing sugar.
Musketeer at the Stove: Alexandre Dumas - Gourmet Writer
And it is known that Dumas was not only a writer and a participant in political events, but also, which is also important, a great gourmet and a wonderful cook. He left hundreds of literary works as a legacy, but considered the Great Culinary Dictionary to be the pinnacle of his work. This book was published only in 1873, after the death of the writer, who died on December 5, 1870. It mentions almost everything related to food: from bamboo oil to dolphins, and even elephants (indeed, Dumas cited a recipe for elephant meat in the dictionary). In the culinary creation of Dumas, historical anecdotes from the life of crowned persons are intertwined with recipes and the writer's theoretical discussions on the topics of appetite and hunger.
« H There is nothing more exciting than exploring the many cookbooks and strange fantasies of famous chefs who come to mind pouring sauce, grilling or skewering our prominent people, ”Dumas joked about the custom of naming dishes after various historical figures. Nevertheless, in the history of world culinary arts, the recipe for salad a la Dumas remained. The writer was very proud of his salad, which he invented himself - in addition to a special sauce, it includes beets, celery, truffles, Rapunzel salad and boiled potatoes.
One for all and all for one. Who said that? Of course, Alexandre Dumas. And this? "Wine is the intellectual part of food." Yes, it was Alexander Dumas, whose novels our parents and grandfathers read in childhood, who was also a real gourmet and connoisseur of cuisine. His life, which can be called epic, contained a lot. Dumas, in whose veins the blood of a black slave and a Creole marquis flowed, already in childhood knew the taste of poverty and humiliation and did not forget about it even when he achieved fame and fortune. He repeatedly became bankrupt, the reason for which was not only a riotous lifestyle and women, but also broad ideological gestures - to help Garibaldi, Dumas sold his fortune. He traveled widely - in France, Italy, Spain, Russia, Holland, England, Hungary, Greece and North Africa. Most often - from the love of wandering, sometimes - hiding from creditors or as a political emigrant. Politics drove him to white heat, and even more - women. Dumas was married, and - if the biographers are not mistaken in their calculations - had forty mistresses and several illegitimate children. His troubled colorful life was in itself a kind of adventure novel. What else? Complementing the image, let's recall the fact that our adventurer lived ... in a castle.
IN
60s of the XIX century Alexandre Dumas starts work on a culinary dictionary. It will be published by the Parisian publisher Alphonse Lemerre, known for publishing works by Theophile Gauthier and Charles Baudelaire. Literary editing will be done by Lecomte de Lille and Anatole France, and the culinary consultant-editor will be a student of the great Karem, Joseph Viyemo. The same one who, during the famous dinner in honor of the return of Dumas from Russia, prepared lobster a la Porthos, crayfish a la D'Artagnan, Musketeer appetizer and salad a la Dumas. But where did Dumas' interest in the culinary universe come from?
P The first source and cause is the house. Marie-Louise Labouret, Dumas' mother, was an excellent cook, and his grandfather kept a tavern. Passion for good food Alexandre Dumas connected with a culinary streak. He was not only a frequent guest of Parisian restaurants, but also a hospitable host who received guests in his own house for sumptuous dinners and dinners. And often he cooked for them. “He put on an apron, went to the chicken coop, where he killed a couple of chickens; then he went to the garden, picked up vegetables; kindled a fire, took out butter, flour, picked parsley, arranged pots, poured salt, shook it, tried it and sent it all into the oven ”- this is how Dumas prepared dinner for a friend who visited him. The author of this testimony, the writer, journalist and humorist Charles Monselet, left another famous saying: “Alexandre Dumas divides his time between literature and cuisine: if he doesn’t write another novel, then he fries onions in his kitchen.”
IN Dumas was not alone in his culinary passion. The 19th century in France is the time of the birth of gastronomy. The first restaurants and bistros open on the ruins of the revolution. Coming from a poor family with many children, Marie-Antoine Karem makes a brilliant career as a chef and lays the theoretical foundations of French haute cuisine. Brillat-Savarin writes the now famous Physiology of Taste. Rumors spread around Paris about the eccentric feasts of another great gourmet - Grimaud de La Renière, who laid the foundation for the development of culinary criticism with the publication of the Gourmet Almanac, the prototype of later gastronomic guides. Other publicists and journalists turn to culinary topics - the same Charles Monselet and Baron Brisset. Their friend Joseph Favre publishes the first magazine, Culinary Science. Dumas could not be outside this turbulent current - he was a real son of his era.
« I I would like everyone to read this book, and use the masters of this art in practice,– Dumas explains his intentions in the introduction to the dictionary. - My book will not amaze practitioners, but who knows, maybe it will deserve the attention of respected people ... ". Dumas, an excellent storyteller, accustomed to awaken the imagination of readers, remained so in his work, which has little in common with a cloak and a sword. He writes about cooking and gastronomy with a twist, with anecdotes, jokes, recalls, impresses with erudition and surprises with associations. Speaking of the lobster, the author quotes Byron's poems and makes Diogenes the commentator. He quotes classics and contemporaries: Romeo and Juliet, Musset, Walter Scott, Fenimore Cooper, Captain Cook and a certain Parisian doctor, to whom he is grateful for the news that oysters are the only food that does not cause indigestion.
H about this appetizing and imaginative "gastronomic novel" - first of all a dictionary. On 1200 pages, from A to Z, dictionary entries are placed in alphabetical order, in which the author describes individual ingredients and whole dishes, drinks and sauces, types of meat and methods of its preparation, fruits, vegetables and spices, utensils necessary in the kitchen, professions related to cuisine and catering, biographies and accomplishments of great chefs, abstract concepts such as appetite, or specific ones such as teeth. We will learn, among other things, what to do in case of burns, how important the saucepan is (what would culinary art be without a saucepan, a favorite weapon and a chef's talisman?), what the ceremonies of admission to the guild of bakers look like and what an unusual use the ancient Romans found for celery.
WITH The dictionary contains three thousand recipes for dishes. According to the author, they have checked everything. But it does not include any technical instructions, such as cooking time or the number of individual ingredients. But for this, the writer can be forgiven - already in the introduction, Dumas said that practical use is not his goal. We are dealing, rather, with an extensive encyclopedia, in which, next to dictionary entries, one can find reprints of fragments of other people’s works, an essay “A few words for the reader” (but this “a few” takes ... thirty pages), a letter to a friend, a menu of famous restaurants in Paris, as well as a monographic text on mustard.
« B a large culinary dictionary, ”probably would not have appeared if it were not for the writer’s numerous long-distance trips and Creole roots. Thanks to them, the dictionary has an international rather than a purely French character (recipes for English steak, Neapolitan pasta, Swiss-style trout side by side with French cuisine). In addition, the author is interested in oriental dishes and culinary exotics. Hence such dictionary entries as aloe, agave, jasmine, curry, turmeric, pilaf, vanilla. Dumas willingly draws on his own experience, more or less eccentric. The mention that he witnessed the extraction of caviar in the Caspian Sea may not be surprising, but the tasting of the liver of a dolphin is quite. And this is just the beginning. Pelican, panther, cephalopods, ostriches, kangaroos, turtles - Dumas writes about them willingly, although the news is probably second-hand. Regarding the French profiteroles, the author frowns: “You can get them at every bakery in the big city. We don't think there is a need to write about them." But here is a recipe that deserves the attention of the writer: “15 young shark stomachs soak for 24 hours and then blanch…”... or: “Take one or more bear paws…”.
D Yuma liked to say: "For the dinner to be successful, there must be two of us - me and my excellent chef." Or maybe this is also the secret to the success of the cookbook? The sick Dumas finished work on the dictionary in Brittany, and the person who accompanied him was ... the cook Marie.
Dmitry Volsky,
September 2015
More articles
The story of how Charles Dickens loved fried cheese and his wife Catherine, who gave birth to children with enviable regularity, impeccably kept house and even wrote a cookbook. And also about how, after 16 years of marriage, family happiness ended, and the recipe for Charles' favorite dish disappeared from the cookbook.
The two hats that cast a shadow over the curtain were those of two of Mrs. Bardle's closest friends, who had just come to have a peaceful cup of tea and share with the hostess a modest hot supper of two portions of pigs' feet and toasted cheese. The cheese was deliciously browned in the little Dutch oven in front of the fireplace; the pigs' legs felt great in a small tin saucepan that hung on a hook.
Charles Dickens. Posthumous Papers of the Pickwick Club
In October 1851, Lady Mary Clutterbuck's cookbook What's for Dinner was published. The preface to it was written by Charles Dickens and the text by his wife, Mrs Catherine Dickens.
The history of this book began in 1835, when the aspiring journalist Charles Dickens, who was 23 years old, arranged a house party for the publication of his essay on the life and characteristic types of London. Among the guests was the famous publisher George Hogarth and his eldest daughter, twenty-year-old Katherine. A pretty, dark-haired, romantic-looking girl not only awakened passion in him, but he liked her with her freshness and spontaneity. He sincerely became attached to her, and at the end of the spring of the same 1835, Catherine Hogarth and the aspiring writer Charles Dickens announced their engagement.
They married in April 1836, and in the first years of their marriage, the young wife was, in the words of the writer, "his better half." As for Katherine, she, according to Dickens's younger sister Mary, "became an excellent hostess and completely happy."
This was followed by a series of years when her husband published one novel after another with enviable regularity, and Catherine just as regularly gave birth to his children. It was increasingly difficult for her to take care of the household, and this care first gradually fell on the shoulders of her younger sister Mary, and after her sudden death, another younger sister, Georgina, who had lived in the Dickens house since the age of fifteen.
By the time the book was published in 1852, the writer's family already had 10 children, and Georgina became the true mistress of the house. Exhausted by childbirth and miscarriages, the aged and stupefied Katherine could no longer give what the energetic, passionate nature of Dickens demanded, and the finale of their relationship was first a gradual, and then a final cooling of feelings, which, in the end, led to a rupture of family ties. Bernard Shaw on this occasion spoke as follows: "The main trouble of his wife was that she was not a Dickens in a skirt." Katherine was a typical woman and wife in Victorian England. As her daughter Kate recalled, "she had her faults, like all of us, but she was a meek, sweet, kind person and a real lady." However, life next to the great writer left its mark on Catherine, which allowed her to write a book that left its mark on the culinary history of England. It contained all the experience of running the household of a writer who loved not only his wife, but also the strict order in the house, comfort and well-prepared delicious food.
It is possible that the idea of writing a book came to Catherine under the influence of the work of the Victorian spinster and modest poet Miss Eliza Acton of Tonbridge in Kent, who published in 1845 the first English cookbook for housewives, Modern Cookery for Private Families, written in simple language. , with recipes easily accessible for making. This book, which for the first time indicated the amount of food and the time required for cooking, served as a kind of model for ladies who sought to publish the fruits of their culinary and economic activities.
Catherine Dickens' modest writing did not become as popular as Miss Acton's, and still less as Mrs Beaton's extensive 1861 book Housekeeping. But for the history of cooking, it has proven to be a valuable source of information, providing an insight into everyday family Victorian cuisine, which was based on dishes of beef, lamb and pork, invariably accompanied by potatoes, with much less use of vegetables (beets, cabbages, carrots and turnips) and a contemptuous attitude. to the food of commoners - fish.
Katherine Dickens' book was a simple collection of homemade dinner menus, complete with easy-to-make recipes. Katharine, originally from Scotland, diversified the usual menu with dishes of cod and mullet, fried oysters, oyster sauce and stewed eels. The writing of the writer's wife was reprinted several times, but after the divorce, Catherine vindictively removed one of Charles's favorite dishes - fried cheese - from new editions. This hot appetizer was often served to the writer with morning coffee, or for dinner along with mashed potatoes, and therefore it is not surprising that he mentioned it in his first novel, The Pickwick Papers.
It turned out that in order to cook fried cheese, you need to follow a few simple rules. First of all, you need to take pickled cheeses - mozzarella, feta, Adyghe, suluguni, etc. Then you will need fresh eggs, coarsely chopped breadcrumbs made with your own hands from dried bread, butter or refined deodorized vegetable oil.
English fried cheese
For 1 serving you will need 80 g of soft pickled cheese, 10 g of breadcrumbs, 10 g of butter, parsley.
Bread thick slices of soft cheese in breadcrumbs, put in a hot frying pan with melted butter and quickly fry over high heat. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle with chopped parsley if desired.
Note: Hard cheeses should first be moistened with milk so that the breading sticks better.
Russian fried cheese
For one serving you will need 120 g of Adyghe cheese, 15 g of breadcrumbs, 7 g of sesame seeds, 1 egg, vegetable oil, lettuce.
Cut the cheese into cubes, dip in beaten eggs, roll in a mixture of breadcrumbs and sesame seeds, put on a plate and place in the refrigerator for 3 hours. Heat enough vegetable oil to high heat in a deep frying pan. Using kitchen tongs, dip the cheese into the oil and fry quickly until the breadcrumbs are golden brown. Remove the fried cheese from the oil with tongs, dry it on a paper towel, cool slightly to a temperature when it is pleasant to eat, and put on a plate on a lettuce leaf.
The author prepared fried cheese in one way or another, tried it himself, treated them to his family, who appreciated his wonderful taste and advised them to publish these recipes, which he does with the hope of obtaining approval from his esteemed readers.
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