The composition of the sausage: what is the traditional product made of? Doctor's sausage recipe according to GOST.

I always take only "Doctor's" in the store. I do not like anything else, and even more so something with lard. Smoked once a year is possible, ham is so-so rare, but "Doctor's" is super.

But the history of the "Doctor's" sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its breaks and complexities.

Look here...

The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War is over, the national economy is being restored. The unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed almost throughout the entire territory of the country, and the kulaks have been eliminated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which in a decade will allow the country to win the Great War ...

Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - the previous difficult years are affecting. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. Therefore, the idea arises to create a product with a high protein content that could replace meat. Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, since 1934 People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR, will play a special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of the "Doctor's" sausage. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the United States as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of "industrial" American food, several varieties of sausages and sausages, industrially processed milk, various canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens ...

Under the close personal control of Mikoyan in the USSR, the construction of several large food industry enterprises begins - for the manufacture of milk, sausages, and canned food.

April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed a decree on the start of the production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by a sausage designed to "correct the health of people who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the arbitrariness of the tsarist regime." It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those treated in sanatoriums and hospitals.

The formulation of this product was developed by the best specialists of the country, doctors, employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of cow's milk powder whole or skimmed for 100 kg of sausage. Minced meat for sausage was made from fresh meat and had to go through a double cutting. As seasonings, a minimum of table salt was used; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

There is a legend that initially they wanted to give the name “Stalinskaya” to this sausage. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination "Stalin's sausage" could be misunderstood by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.
Until the 1950s, the recipe and quality of the sausage was unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. It also depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The sausage of the Mikoyanovsky Meat Processing Plant became an ideal and a model - the metropolitan giant, which supplied the nomenclature in the first place, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought in almost any grocery store.
Interestingly, the cost of "Doctor's" was significantly higher than its retail price. In the shops "Doctor" was sold at 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s, you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

Changes in the quality of sausages began only in the 70s and this was due primarily to the difficulties that the continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, to the drought and crop failure in the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to minced meat.

Cardinal changes in the fate of sausages - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the feedstock will change, in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.

There is such an addition. Here is the phrase: According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of dry whole cow's milk per 100 kg of sausage. or low fat"

This is all fine, but there is another point in this GOST:

2.6. It is allowed to use in the production of boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves:
food phosphates in the amount of 0.3% by weight of raw materials (in terms of anhydrous);

- sodium ascorbate or ascorbic acid in the amount of 50 g per 100 kg of raw materials;

Smoke preparations approved by the USSR Ministry of Health;

Pasteurized cow's milk with a mass fraction of fat of 2.5 and 3.2% in the amount of 8 kg instead of 1 kg of whole milk powder with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 7 kg;

Cow pasteurized non-fat milk in the amount of 11.5 kg instead of 1 kg of skimmed milk powder with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 10.5 kg;

Powdered cream with a fat content of 42% in the amount of 1 kg instead of 2.1 kg of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

Whole cow's milk powder with a fat content of 25% in the amount of 1 kg instead of 610 g of dry cream with a fat content of 42% or 1281 g of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

egg powder in the amount of 274 g instead of 1 kg of melange or 1 kg (24 pcs.) of chicken eggs;

Trimmed buffalo, yak meat instead of trimmed beef of the corresponding grade in the production of premium grade sausages up to 50%, first and second grades up to 100%;

Boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the highest and first grade with manufacturing defects (scrap, deformed loaves, with minced meat over the shell, broth-fat edema, etc.) for the production of boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade; second grade - for the production of sausages and meat loaves of the second grade in an amount of up to 3% by weight of raw materials in excess of the recipe;

Hemoglobin preparation or food blood in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight of the raw material;

Extracts of spices and garlic instead of natural ones;

Trim beef trimmed in an amount of up to 10% - for beef sausages and sausages of the first grade and up to 30% - for tea sausage, tea meat bread to the mass of trimmed beef of the second grade provided for in the recipes, instead of its corresponding amount;

Cut meat trimmed pork in an amount of up to 10% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves, sausages of the first grade and up to 20% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves of the second grade to the mass of trimmed bold pork, provided for in the recipes, instead of its corresponding amount. It is not allowed to use beef trimmed beef trimmings and trimmed pork trimmed meat trimmed together;

Protein stabilizer to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade;

The mass of meat beef, pork and mutton to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade. For separate mutton sausage - up to 15% of the mass of meat from lean mutton instead of single-grade trimmed mutton;

A mass of meat beef, pork or mutton, obtained by processing bones in saline solutions, in the amount of 4 kg instead of 1 kg of meat mass obtained by mechanical pressing, with a decrease in the mass of added water by 3 kg;

Food plasma (serum) of the blood of slaughtered animals to the mass of raw materials in the following quantities:

up to 5% instead of added water in the production of boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the highest grade;

up to 15% in return for added water in the production of boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the first and second grade;

up to 10% instead of 2% trimmed pork meat and 8% water or 3% trimmed beef (or lamb) meat and 7% water

or up to 15% instead of 3% trimmed pork and 12% water or 4% trimmed beef (or mutton) and 11% water;

Cuts obtained from cleaning boiled smoked meats instead of raw beef or pork fat in an amount of up to 10% in the production of beef sausages, beef sausages, beef meat bread;

Pasteurized non-fat cow's milk instead of added water in an amount 5% higher than the recommended rate of water, except for doctor's sausages, milk sausages, with sorbitol, ordinary sausages, dairy sausages;

"Doctor's" sausage for many years was one of the symbols of the well-being of the Soviet family. Queues lined up behind it, it was added to the Olivier salad, beloved by everyone, the recipe for hodgepodge was unthinkable without Doctor's, sandwiches with this sausage flaunted in obkom buffets.

How did this truly legendary sausage variety come about?

Just what the doctor ordered

The exact date of the birth of the Doctor's sausage (GOST 23670) is well known. This is April 29, 1936, it was then that, by order of the people's commissar of the food industry, Anastas Mikoyan, its mass production began. The sausage recipe was developed by the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry, and was distinguished by a low fat content, despite the fact that the sausage contained a lot of protein.

The reason for the start of production of such a product was a sharp deterioration in the health status of the country's population. After the abolition of the NEP policy and collectivization, a famine began in the country, which affected entire regions. Lack of food, starvation - all this led to outbreaks of various diseases.

In the early thirties, Anastas Mikoyan visited the United States, where he also visited Chicago meat processing plants. Returning to the USSR, Mikoyan initiated the creation of the First Moscow Sausage Factory, which now bears the name of Mikoyan. It was here that the production of sausages began, intended, as was said in the documents of that time, for the dietary nutrition of people with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation - “... patients with poor health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism.” The wording, of course, is somewhat crafty, but the sausage recipe is quite honest, containing only natural products of the highest quality.

In accordance with GOST, for 100 kg of sausage it was supposed to take 25 kilograms of top quality beef, 70 kilograms of lean pork, 3 kilograms of fresh chicken eggs, 2 liters of milk, salt, sugar, nutmeg or cardamom. The shelf life of this sausage was 72 hours.

It turned out to be a great dietary product, very tasty, fragrant and healthy. Its task - to restore the strength of a person with poor health - this sausage performed remarkably. She was prescribed as a medical nutrition by doctors, which is why she received the name "Doctor's".

Doctorate? No, "ham-chopped"

During the period of Soviet power, such an anecdote was walking in the academic environment. Two candidates of sciences meet, one drags a bag in which something heavy lies. "Doctoral?" - respectfully asks his friend, meaning, of course, scientific work. “No, “chopped ham!”” - the first one answers, meaning a sausage grade lower than “Doctor's”.

The anecdote quite accurately reflects the realities of that time. This sausage was not easy to find in stores, and it acquired the status of a scarce product. They struggled with the deficit in a simple Soviet way: by simplifying the recipe.

People of the older generation remember that back in the 70s, the old people grumbled, cutting into slices a loaf of sausage bought with great difficulty: “Is this the Doctor's? That used to be "Doctor's"! And this is nonsense, not sausage. And they were right, because the classic recipe for dietary sausage, which remained unchanged until the end of the 50s, then began to degrade. The number of livestock in the USSR turned out to be not as large as we would like. In addition, they began to feed the pigs with the waste of the fishing industry, because of which the meat acquired an unpleasant smell and taste. Gradually, flour, melange instead of eggs, and powdered milk instead of whole milk were allowed to be added to the Doctor’s. By 1979, pork skin, egg powder and starch were also allowed. The loaf began to be wrapped in cellophane. The reputation of the product, beloved by generations of Soviet people, was dealt a final blow. "Doctor's" sausage was equal in quality to other sausages that sometimes appeared in Soviet stores, such as "Tea", "Language" and the same one, "Ham-chopped".

Why Doctor's? Because I ate - and to the doctor!

Nowadays, GOSTs of the Soviet era have been safely forgotten. The Doctorskaya brand is exploited by all and sundry, producing sausages with a monstrous content of flavor and aroma enhancers, acidity regulators, antioxidants, stabilizers, emulsifiers and color fixatives. At the same time, many enterprises produce products on the basis of specifications - technical conditions that allow the production of a product without meat at all, based on soy and corragenes. Corragenes are called thickeners, food imitators. It's a red seaweed powder. It is poured with meat broth, mixed and allowed to harden. It turns out "almost real" minced meat. Nevertheless, even today there are enterprises that produce goods strictly in accordance with GOST. At the same time, it must be remembered that GOST 2011 allows the use of flour, starch, sodium nitrite in the Doctor's sausage recipe, and dry substitutes instead of natural eggs and milk.

The current "Doctor" is no longer the dietary product that was developed in 1936 for Mikoyan's enterprise. Therefore, apparently, a joke was born: “Why is the sausage called “Doctor's”? Because I ate - and to the doctor!

I re-read and tried a fairly large number of recipes for homemade sausages, but, unfortunately, none of them took root in our family. in the end, I found this recipe, corrected slightly for the possibility of using at home.
It turned out very tasty and tender. Even my fussy (children) gobbled up as much as crackling behind the ears.
So straight to the recipe:
1. We take pork, lard, beef (instead of lean pork and lard, you can take fatty pork by the weight of two ingredients) and mince through a large cell. It is better to take meat products only thawed or deep-cooled (so the taste is more tender).
2. Mix the minced meat with your hands and pass it through the meat grinder AGAIN, but through a small cell.
3. Add salt, sugar, cardamom and knead THOROUGHLY with your hands.
4. The most interesting and responsible is coming. We take Ice water and pour a little (about 3/4 cup) into the minced meat. Next, in the hands of a household submersible blender and carefully, thoroughly grind the minced meat into some unsightly mass. As necessary, we add more ice water so that the sausage mass has a consistency like thick sour cream, without visible and tangible fibers, as it is also called homogeneous.
5. For those who wish (which is not included in the original recipe, but it turns out quite tasty), you can cut a little lean pork into small cubes and mix it with your hands into the sausage mass.

This completes the most difficult part of making homemade boiled sausage.

6. Let's start forming a loaf. Here who wants and what he has. You can form a loaf using parchment paper for baking, you can use cling film, you can use a special collagen film (but it still has a specific taste and I would not recommend it, and during the cooking process it can destroy the integrity of the loaf), some form a loaf of sausage in tetrapack bags (for example, from milk or something else. In general, we form what is in the kitchen from that.
I mold with parchment, it's more convenient for me. In the middle of the sheet we dump the minced meat, fold the paper and make an "unfolded candy". Then, on one side, we twist the “candy” and tie it with twine. On the reverse side, we press our sausage and also twist and bandage it. It turns out a fairly shaped loaf of sausage.
Next, I tie it with twine in increments of 3-4 cm.
The moment of formation can be seen on almost any video in the public domain, so we will not focus on it much.

7. We place the resulting loaf in a plastic bag and tightly bandage it. again in the bag and bandage again. and in the third package and the third time we tightly tie the package.
This is necessary so that during the cooking process, water does not get on the sausage and spoil all our efforts.

8. We boiled water in a suitable bowl, put our sausage swaddled in bags into it, bring it to a boil and reduce the heat to a minimum. The temperature during cooking should be 85-90 degrees Celsius. We cover with a lid. Despite the absurdity of the latter - this way the sausage turns out to be more tender. And cook for 25-30 minutes.
Turn over in the container on the other side for better and more even heating and cook for another 25-30 minutes.

9. In principle, the sausage is ALMOST ready. We take it out of the container. We do not remove the packages (we see the juice inside) and put them on the board for about half an hour or forty minutes. Remove bags and refrigerate until warm.

10. We put it in a bag and in the refrigerator for three to four hours for complete cooling / infusion / fermentation.

We eat!
Bon appetit!

We all have certainly heard about the "Doctor's" sausage, but not many people know the history of this famous product.

The history of "Doctor's" sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history

The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War is over, the national economy is being restored. The unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed almost throughout the entire territory of the country, and the kulaks have been eliminated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which in a decade will allow the country to win the Great War ...

Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - the previous difficult years are affecting. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. Therefore, the idea arises to create a product with a high protein content that could replace meat.

A special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of the "Doctor's" sausage will be played by Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, since 1934 the People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the United States as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of "industrial" American food, several varieties of sausages and sausages, industrially processed milk, various canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens ...

Under the close personal control of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises began in the USSR - for the manufacture of milk, sausages, and canned food.

April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed a decree on the start of the production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by a sausage designed to "correct the health of people who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the arbitrariness of the tsarist regime." It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those treated in sanatoriums and hospitals.

The recipe for "Doctor's" sausage from the times of the USSR

The formulation of this product was developed by the best specialists of the country, doctors, employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of cow's milk powder whole or skimmed for 100 kg of sausage. Minced meat for sausage was made from fresh meat and had to go through a double cutting. As seasonings, a minimum of table salt was used; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

There is a legend that initially they wanted to give the name “Stalinskaya” to this sausage. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination "Stalin's sausage" could be misunderstood by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.

Until the 1950s, the recipe and quality of the sausage was unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. It also depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The sausage of the Mikoyanovsky Meat Processing Plant became an ideal and a model - the metropolitan giant, which supplied the nomenclature in the first place, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought in almost any grocery store.

Interesting, but the cost of "Doctor's" was significantly higher than its retail price. In the shops "Doctor" was sold at 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s, you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

Changes in the quality of sausages began only in the 70s and this was due primarily to the difficulties that the continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, to the drought and crop failure in the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to minced meat.
Cardinal changes in the fate of sausages - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the feedstock will change, in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.

But still, most of us, coming to the meat department of a supermarket and choosing a sausage, will first of all pay attention to the name "Doctor's" ....

In the territory where the Soviet Union once existed, they were very fond of doctor's sausage (and now they eat it with pleasure). She was appreciated in the Baltic States, and in Kazakhstan, and in the poor post-war years, and in the prosperous seventies. But few consumers knew why the sausage is called "Doctor's". Everyone is accustomed to this name of the product, although for some reason it shocked foreigners. If “Language” or “Chicken” sausages were made from offal and poultry meat, then one could only guess what was included in the “Doctor's” and “Children's”. The meaning of these names has been forgotten over time. And let's remember the history of the doctor's sausage. To do this, we have to go back to the thirties of the last century.

The more nutritious, the healthier

The village physician often dealt with patients whose ailment was rooted in poor nutrition. After all, the peasants ate meat only on holidays, and their daily diet consisted of cereals and lean cabbage soup. To cure anemia and similar ailments, the doctor ordered the patient to eat more fatty meat. Maybe this is the secret of why doctor's sausage is called "doctor's"? On a doctor's prescription? Partly yes. Doctor's sausage is very nutritious. And, indeed, doctors believed that it was good to eat it with anemia or after a long fast. But doctor's sausage can hardly be called fatty. It is truly dietary. And it wasn't just some doctor who came up with it. The composition of the sausage was approved by the People's Commissariat of Health. Why did the Country of Soviets so need a special "medical" prescription?

Where did the name "doctor's sausage" come from?

The thirties of the last century… The NEP policy was cancelled. Collectivization, coupled with the seizure of crops from the peasants, led to famine. Huge masses of the population experienced a lack of food. Prolonged starvation led to outbreaks of various diseases. Around the same time, the politician Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan visited the United States in 1930. During his visit, he also visited Chicago, where he got a firsthand look at how the American meat industry works. Returning to the USSR, Mikoyan created the First Moscow Sausage Factory based on the experience gained. This factory was later named after its creator. VNII nutritionists have developed and submitted for approval to the People's Commissariat of Health a recipe for a new sausage product. It, as stated in the documents, was intended specifically for "healing nutrition of the sick, whose health was undermined by the Civil War and tsarist despotism." It is not difficult now to guess why the doctor's sausage got such a name. Even according to the documents, she was a medicine prescribed by a doctor.

Doctor's sausage according to GOST

The government, of course, was disingenuous about the reasons for the mass starvation of the population. But a medicine that quickly restores strength was nevertheless found. The doctor's prescription was verified to the smallest detail. To prepare one hundred kilograms of doctor's sausage, it was necessary to take 25 kg of trimmed beef meat (pulp of the highest grade, without connective tissues), 70 kg of pork (also first-class quality, lean, without fat), two liters of whole cow's milk and seventy-five chicken eggs. But from the spices it was allowed to add only salt, sugar, a little cardamom and nutmeg. Why is doctor's sausage called "doctor's"? Yes, because it was prescribed for patients with stomach ulcers, colitis and other ailments of the gastrointestinal tract. This nutritious product was really dietary. He could rightfully be included in the diet of children. By the way, at the Moscow plant named after Mikoyan, where in 1936 the first stick “Doctorskoy” rolled off the assembly line, other equally popular brands of sausages were invented: “Amateur”, “Braunschweig”, “Tea”.

Gradual surrender of positions

The recipe for the meat product was approved by GOST, which was strictly adhered to until the seventy-fourth year. Why was it necessary to change the recipe during the "general prosperity"? When the country moved from building a bright future to a stage, it suddenly became clear that the number of livestock is not as large as we would like. In addition, they began to feed the pigs with the waste of the fishing industry, which is why the meat of animals acquired an unpleasant odor. Already GOST 1974 allows the use of starch and flour in the preparation of doctor's sausage. But this was only the beginning of the fall of the once high standard of quality. GOST 23670-79 allowed the use of melange, milk powder and pork skins instead of eggs. Soon, flavor enhancers and antioxidants came into play. The loaf was wrapped in cellophane. That is why gourmets began to ask in bewilderment: “And why is doctor’s sausage called “doctor’s”?”

GOST and TU

In the early 2000s, a myriad of businesses emerged exploiting the popularity of the brand. They cooked their sausage in such a way that it was impossible to call it a dietary product. The current State Standard (2011) allows the use of flour, starch, sodium nitrite in the preparation of the product, and dry substitutes instead of natural eggs and milk. But there are manufacturers who offer the TU product. This abbreviation stands for "Specifications". They have nothing to do with GOST and are developed by the enterprise itself. And it is no longer known why doctor's sausage is called that - after all, it contains smoke flavor, antioxidants E 300-306, addictive monosodium glutamate, stabilizers and acidity regulators. It is unlikely that such a dubious cocktail of all kinds of E-additives can be considered a dietary product.

Why sausage is called "doctor's"

We have already told the origin of the name of this product. The question should be put differently: does it have the right to continue to be considered "medical" food? Folk art has already begun to make up jokes about its dubious quality. For example, in one of them, which is very revealing, the answer to the question of why doctor's sausage is called "doctor's" is given: because after eating it, you need to urgently consult a doctor.