Pizzeria 22 cm. Restaurant critic: pizzeria "22 centimeters

Fully justified expectations! If there was at least some attempt at seriousness: the facade, the menu, the interior, the prices, the manners of the staff, any departure from the diner genre, I would not even begin to discuss. Hundreds of kilobytes about “authenticity” and “like in Italy” were enough for me: didn’t they really eat up these kilobytes in 2009? Only the format matters.

Fast accept an order. They correspond to the cycle, here the waiters, according to this parameter “correspondence to the rhythm” - “five out of five”. Yes, not a restaurant or a cafe, there are no rules. Men's shift - there are no "likes", it's a pity that he does not repeat the order Quick: I'm not talking about his memory functions, I'm talking about my own calmness - could I remember all of the seven dishes? The rest is perfectly in the format, the plates are carried away quickly. The girls' shift, as if ... different. There is a “like” but only a dish with a large share of returns, there is no message about the “stop” from the very opening: I myself ask about four positions. In an establishment with two hot dishes, the absence of one, if not a problem, then at least a reason for warning. The order repeats, but in a completely strange way, already moving away from the table. Mumbling to herself? Okay, here's the format. No booking as in , and surprisingly ALL tables in the rush hour lounge are girls. One male face out of thirty, then another beard came, but the first one had already left the hall. During the day, for some reason, a third of men. The myth that girls take care of their figure has been dispelled without the participation of English scientists!

Beverages. Lemonade (0.4 - 150 rubles, 1 liter - 300, ice - the whole Arctic, anyway, worth it) turned out to be the simplest, most flawless order. Passion fruit, but on a clear basis of citrus, and not as it is now fashionable to forget what “lemonade” is. Beer - 190 rubles, pear cider 220. I liked cider more as an accompaniment to food.

Salad with duck confit (280 rubles). After all the criticism of colleagues, I am amazed - the whole bottom is made of "duck". An excellent mix, pink grapefruit and avocado fillet, not pickled, but unexpectedly ripe ... in the most natural way of nature. Excellent - in the salad in the first place is the mix? Then it's SALAD!

Salad with porchetta and truffle sauce (290 rubles) is actually a salad with sauce, it is the main one here. This I do not scold, I come up with a name. Nothing would have happened without him, he's in charge. Mix, delicious pork, potatoes, but he is the main one. MAIN. Great.

The third and last on the menu is a salad with arugula and pumpkin (250 rubles). What they did for twenty minutes is unclear. Extremely unpleasant ice pumpkin “with a crunch” fresh, arugula very successful, pre-crisis spicy and southern, three fragments of sun-dried tomato on the bottom and pine nuts with inept cuts of soft “parmesan” crowning the creation. Not bad, but urgently issue an “order” - bake the pumpkin until soft, and do not freeze. While the girl was carrying from the kitchen, she stopped three times, looked in surprise at the plate: did they put something out of order?

Pizza- just my opinion. Personal. Everyone likes. A failure, and even a third of the expectations did not justify. A good oven - a minute roast - an appetizing pizza. Yeah? Here, with a good (I believe the kilobytes of words) oven, rural housewives manage to make a grandmother’s product “22 ... MINUTES” in a Belarusian oven. I understand that the internship (I haven’t been, I haven’t tried Starita), that, probably, the Pizza planet is so big and diverse, and there is no standard for one, but for my definition of “pizza”, this is a nightmare. A cheesecake with a completely absent crust crunch, even black spots, and they are all over the bottom of all three pizzas, this is not “oops, marriage”, even the very edges, manage to stay on all three pizzas, the same rich crumb, donut in the hands, even the humidity is invisible . Rather, she does not surprise in this muffin, as she would have shocked in pizza. Yes, you can take it around the corner. But only because of the size. From 22 cm, about fifteen fillings - he cut off a quarter himself, folded it, two bites, three centimeters each, and left all the crusts: why fall here? And it’s true: you don’t want to eat sweet edges at all. I scolded Zotman, but there the filling behaved badly, and the crusts were appetizing. Of course, it is very satisfying, the crumb is praised by the people. They don’t cut, probably, there are reasons - a small pie looks normal, after a guest picking with a table knife on the board, it’s better not to take pictures - a large pizza has at least islands untouched and pretty. By combinations - Neapolitana (290 rubles) - anchovy, the strangest thing, it seems to be enough, but the taste is lost precisely because of the thick and soft base ... like a phone on a soft pillow, it rings quietly. Silences.

Pepperoni (320 rubles), on the contrary, this rich substrate goes, “butter” cheese, like sausage on a fresh bun.

Pear, Gorgonzola, Basturma (370 rubles) - sweet to the point of complete loss of gorgonzola hints, with chips - blown away by the wind, something tasty, if the petals had not dried. No, they don’t lie that the oven 400+ burns / cremates.

If you didn’t like the pizza - Lasagna (340 rubles) - a hot, hot cast-iron frying pan, does not cool down, being brought not the second change, as requested (in general, both requests, which were nodding “YES”, were not fulfilled), but in the middle of the pizza . Bechamel is awesome, I would love to fill a soup bowl with his “solo”. Dryish lasagna, I don’t even know how it is in the sauce and the boundaries of the container, this could happen, and not dry minced meat. Accents would, and uniform distribution.

The second and last hot dish of the menu - meatballs with mashed potatoes (360 rubles!!!) - beyond. If lasagna is a hot frying pan, here it is at room temperature. Five terribly insipid, without a drop of sauce nearby, ruddy meatballs and a piece of local bun guards the puree. Probably, these “meatballs” somehow play on pizza, with sauce and what else is supposed to be there, here you dream of a sprig of greens or diabolical ketchup on the table. Some kind of rest. From an economy lunch to a business lunch. Or alter or "stop". Sorry.

Pear crumble (240 rubles) - again a frying pan. Need to check. At the fifty-fifth minute of waiting, they came to offer tea and coffee. Coffee - so as not to fall asleep from this very expectation? Nope, thanks, I'll wait. In general, “brain breakage”, in a diner, where everything is tied up on the back of tables and, next to it, people ate and left twice during this time ... during this hour ... Colleagues wrote “hot” - yes. A pear of compote softness, I won’t call it stale, and there is a lot of light syrup at the bottom, a very successful addition of sea buckthorn and ... muesli. As it is. The layer is good, does not allow the ice cream to melt - bury it right away. As a dessert, a low-calorie, "free" style dough recommended by a chain of fitness clubs - and delicious. I bought and waited exactly an hour, namely the crumble.

Total. For some time now, the words "snack bar" and "diner" have ceased to have any bad meaning for me. I don't go to the bad ones. And those that are - just a dream. The opposite of the past trend is to dress each chain cafe in an outfit with restaurant elements. Here everything is logical and verified - this is exactly about "22". White brick, iron furniture and the only wild dissonance - sockets. What the hell are laptops, if the local ideology - ate, freed the table for others? You know, these sockets are worse than a portrait of a Hitler or flies on a table. And I won’t fight with pizza, the main thing is that the owners like it and the fans. It is interesting that in the “steam” of a full hall, in contrast to a relaxed empty room, the dishes are served faster and the staff does not hover in the clouds. Salad without hot ingredients 20 minutes in an empty room, and an hour for dessert? When the owners get married in Italy, will there probably be such reviews? We are waiting for the return, honeymoon months, are they a month?

The interior of the pizzeria at first glance is not particularly remarkable: calm cold shades, metal structures and a red accent on the entrance group. But the interesting begins further, on the second floor, which is located in the basement.

Only the basement here is unusual - salt warehouses used to be located at this address, so the lower floor goes deep down and boasts ceilings more than four meters high. The design project of the pizzeria was carried out by the St. Petersburg architectural bureau of Boris and Anna Lvovsky DA Architects, and it took a lot of effort to equip a basement of such depth. The architects designed a geometric red staircase, which became the center of the interior, high ceilings already create a feeling of air, but in order to further facilitate the space, shallow niches were made in the walls imitating windows that were illuminated from the inside, a round mirror was hung above the stairs, to be photographed in which every second wants. It turned out so interesting that most of the guests prefer to sit on the ground floor, and not at the windows, as is often the case in restaurants.

Of course, the scale of the metropolitan pizzeria is many times larger than those two that are located in St. Petersburg, but in general the interior echoes the restaurant on Bolshaya Konyushennaya, so you can still feel a little on the Neva.

The main competitor of Pinsa Maestrello

Two wood-burning stoves were installed in 22 centimeters - one on each floor, which were hand-assembled by the restaurant's pizzaiolo chef Yury Karpov together with an invited Italian master. Actually, Yuri is responsible for all the pizza in the restaurant: the menu includes 13 different pizzas, divided into "Old World" and "New World", as well as one sweet pizza with berries and mascarpone (360 rubles). The classics still prevail here, in the menu "Margarita", "Marinara", "Neapolitana", "Pepperoni", "Vesuviana", vegetarian "Ortolana", "Four Cheeses" and spicy "Devil", prices vary from 270 to 400 rubles for pizza. Feel free to take any - it seems that "22 centimeters" are ready to compete for the title of the best pizza in the city with Pinsa Maestrello, but, fortunately, pizzerias make two very different products, and you don't have to choose one of the two. The dough in "22 centimeters" is soft, dense, the crusts are puffy and charred in the oven, they do not spare the fillings, they cook to take away - a great option is to take a couple of boxes and go to the park in Bolshoy Spasoglinishevsky Lane. Of the author's pizzas, there is a variant with pear, gorgonzola and sujuk, prosciutto with taleggio and arugula, "Kremlin Star" - with truffle ricotta and pecorino, and Burratina pizza with tomatoes and burrata.

The rest of the menu, which does not include pizza, is handled by chef Ildar Bedretdinov, who previously worked at Tehnikum. The menu is small, but sensible, with interesting positions with a hint of gastronomy: firstly, an absolutely wonderful salad with stracciatella and avocado in truffle oil, beaten cucumbers in tofu sauce - spicy, bold, umami. Also be sure to take the classic "22 centimeters" - spicy spicy tomato soup, meatballs and, of course, sweet or not anjoletti - dough sticks with sauce. Absolutely everything is delicious.

As for the bar, so far the pizzeria offers bottled and draft beer, lemonades, tea and coffee, but soon there will be a wine list and a small cocktail menu.

Happy New Year, Merry Christmas and Happy Old New Year everyone!

The place opened in autumn (September), and I got here just now, after the New Year. 22 centimeters, as the name suggests, is the diameter of all pizza baked in the establishment. In addition, the menu includes soups, salads, and desserts. But it didn't fit me. Surprised by the presence of "Sweet pizza" with raspberries, mascarpone and Porto sauce.

We went to dinner with MCH, each took a pizza. The menu is divided into "Old World" - it was from there that I took "Margarita" and "New World" - from there MCH ordered pizza "Spek / Taleggio / Ruccola" with jamon. The order did not wait long, besides, tea was immediately brought to us. The atmosphere in the cafe is simple, relaxed, around white brickwork, interesting lighting. I liked that the tables are at an acceptable distance, otherwise it’s already enough that in every institution you shout down the neighbors. Here everyone sits comfortably with a glass of wine and Italian delicacies. Without too much pathos. You can just sit back and watch your food being made in the open kitchen.

Even decorated for the holidays) Very nice.

"Margarita" looks like this:

It costs 250 rubles. By the way, for several months of “not reaching” the cafe, I read unflattering reviews like: “We expected more. We were on Sunday, everything was full” or “lavash dough, smeared tomato paste and super-thin slices of sausage.” I just want to say: "Friends, well, come on weekdays if you are a sociopath? At home, do it the way you like." Although we were on weekdays, but on holidays, we did not see the crowds. And yes, the pizza was delicious. And beautiful.

"Speck / Taleggio / Arugula" looks like this:

It costs 390 rubles. It can be seen that it has huge slices of jamon. Impressed with the look and feel. The pizza is uneven, with bubbles, herbs and other ingredients are generously thrown, while you eat, the juice drips. It turned out to be unbearable for me to eat the whole Margarita, MCh helped here, although he was already far from hungry. In general, 22 cm - just right! The bill did not shock us either: for two pizzas with a kettle of tea, we paid a little more than 800 rubles.

In general, I will come here again and again. And I advise you.

P.S: Located on the street. Zhukovsky, 45

Works from 13:00 to 23:00

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Neapolitan pizzeria "22 centimeters" opened on Solyanka. The founders of the project, Andrey Petukhov and Eldar Kabirov, were the first to introduce the format of a modern Neapolitan pizzeria in Russia by opening three 22 cm outlets in the northern capital, St. Petersburg.

Pizza chef o Yuri Karpov and the owners of the pizzeria trained at one of the oldest Starita pizzerias in Naples, so the restaurant prepares pizza according to classic Neapolitan recipes: Italian soft wheat flour Molino DallaGiovanna, salt, water, live yeast. Sugar, butter, eggs and other various impurities are not added to the dough . Every morning, when kneading the dough, the pizzaiolo chef takes into account the temperature and air humidity, which affect the quality of the pizza, and changes the amount of flour and yeast in the recipe. The dough is kept for at least 24 hours in special chambers at low temperatures. This makes pizza light, less caloric and better absorbed by the body . Pizza is baked on a live fire in a wood-burning oven for 60-90 seconds at a maximum temperature of 470-490 degrees. During this time, at this temperature, the dough has time to cook, while the filling remains as juicy as possible.

pepperoni

The menu features 13 types of pizza : prepared according to the classic recipes of the "Old World" Marinara (270 rubles), Napoletan (330 rubles), Devil (400 rubles), representatives of the "New World" - Pear / Gorgonzola / Sudzhuk (400 rubles), Kremlin Star ( 420 rubles), Burratina (590 rubles), as well as sweet pizza Raspberry/Mascrapone/Porto Sauce (360 rubles). The establishment does not serve pizza cut into pieces, but offers to make it to the guest himself, as is done in the best pizzerias in Naples. You can also take away pizza.

Pizza 22 cm chef Ildar Bedretdinov (Tehnikum, IlFornoGroup, Moscow Mariott Hotels) has developed a menu of appetizers, soups, hot dishes and desserts. Appetizers include anjoletti with your choice of sauce(190 rubles), tuna tataki with tofu sauce(550 rubles), tuna tartare with sweet tomatoes and mozzarella(480 rubles), among salads - caprese(390 rubles), stracciatella with avocado in truffle oil, spinach and tomatoes(380 rubles). From soups you can choose classic spicy tomato soup with mozzarella(290 rubles) and stracciatella soup(270 rubles) - chicken soup with egg and cheese. Hot in Pizza 22 cm served Italian meatballs(370 rubles) and fettuccine with oyster mushrooms and tartufata(390 rubles). Real Italian desserts are prepared in a pizzeria - panna cotta with chia(260 rubles), anjoletti with salted caramel(190 rubles) and tiramisu with cherries(280 rubles). In the near future, the menu will expand with new dishes, and a lunch offer will also appear in the pizzeria.

Stracciatella with avocado in truffle oil, spinach and tomatoes

The bar list includes homemade lemonades(420 rubles per 1 liter) - raspberry-rosemary-honey, strawberry-tarragon, passion fruit-orange-honey, lemonadesFentimans(290 rubles and 190 rubles), beer and cider on tap and in bottles. Alcoholic drinks within a month from the moment of opening can be brought with you along with a check - there is no corkage fee.

For all pizza lovers coming soon master classes will be organized with Eldar Kabirov. The Chef’s Pizza project in St. Petersburg will also continue on Solyanka, where pizza, developed by a well-known metropolitan chef from friendly restaurants, appears on the menu every month.