Olivier history of origin. Lucien Olivier came up with his salad out of spite
The ease of preparation and the availability of ingredients made Olivier salad an extremely popular dish in the Soviet years. Olivier was an indispensable attribute of the Soviet festive table for the New Year and other holidays. Therefore, we want to bring to your attention the exact modern recipe for Olivier salad with a photo (well, in case there are those who do not know it or have forgotten it).
Olivier salad: a classic recipe with a photo and a history of creation
Today we want to talk about a real Russian dish - Olivier salad . The history of Olivier salad is known to few. Despite such a French name, it was invented in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, and the famous Moscow restaurateur of French origin, Lucien Olivier, became its creator. Whose name, in fact, gave the name to this salad.
Olivier salad - a classic recipe (story)
It should be noted that Lucien Olivier was simply a culinary genius, and he composed many dishes and invented a large number of different culinary technologies. As for Olivier salad, in most European countries it is still called "Russian salad".
According to the original idea of its creator olivier was not supposed to be a salad at all- it was a gourmet dish that was called "game mayonnaise." It was the whole composition. The basis was boiled fillet of hazel grouse, finely chopped and laid out together with broth jelly, next to it was an equally exquisite composition of slices of veal tongue and crayfish necks. Above them in the middle was a pyramid of boiled and diced potatoes and gherkins. Boiled eggs, cut into slices, like the potato pyramid itself, were intended solely for decoration. The recipe for mayonnaise used for this dish was also unique.
Salad Olivier - eternal Russian classicWhen the restaurateur first introduced this exquisite dish, he saw in just a few minutes that most of the visitors mix it into a common mixture and already in this form are laid out on plates. Lucien Olivier's indignation knew no bounds. As a sign of protest and in order to express his attitude towards the manners of Russians, more precisely, their lack of manners, the next day the restaurateur specially cut all the ingredients, immediately mixed and seasoned with mayonnaise and served it on the table in this form. Well, the result turned out to be the opposite of what was expected, but very spectacular - the salad made a splash and finally won its place on the festive tables, and later conquered the whole world.
Abroad also known as "Russian salad" or "hussar salad"
Although all the ingredients used in the original salad are known today, the true recipe has been lost forever, since Lucien Olivier used spices and herbs in his preparation, the names and proportions of which he took with him to another world. However, in the original salad, everything was not so simple - and the mayonnaise was special, and the cooking technology is quite complicated.
The main secret of the amazing taste of the salad was a small amount of certain seasonings that Olivier personally added to his mayonnaise in the secret room. It was the composition of these spices that could not be reliably restored. Well, the rest of the products included in the salad were in full view, so they did not represent a special secret.
Classic Olivier Salad - Recipe
However, modern Olivier salad remains one of the most favorite dishes of our compatriots and it is simply impossible to imagine a festive feast without it. This salad does not drop out of restaurant menus either. Therefore, we want to bring to your attention an accurate modern Olivier salad recipe (well, in case there are those who do not know him or have forgotten):
The composition of the modern salad Olivier
Olivier salad ingredients:
Olivier salad recipe:
- Wash potatoes and carrots thoroughly and boil until soft, then cool, peel and cut into cubes.
- Boil eggs and also chop.
- Peel the onion and chop finely.
- Cucumbers are also cut into small cubes.
- Peel the apple and cut into cubes.
- Boiled chicken (ham, sausage) cut into cubes.
- We combine all the chopped ingredients in one bowl, add peas there, salt, pepper and season with mayonnaise.
- Mix thoroughly, let it brew a little and serve.
That's the whole secret. And the result will always be unsurpassed.
Olivier salad video recipe
Salad "Olivier" - this is exactly the dish that has a lot of variations:
Royal Olivier
Olivier according to an old recipe
Olivier classic with sausage
Classic Olivier recipe
Olivier warm
Olivier with salmon
Jellied "Olivier"
Salad Olivier with crayfish tails and red caviar
Olivier salad with meat and fresh cucumbers
Salad Olivier "For the bourgeoisie"
Olivier with chicken breast and poached egg
Olivier with fresh cucumber
Salad Olivier original
Olivier with shrimp, avocado and homemade mayonnaise
Salad Olivier is a real classic, just like herring under a fur coat and mimosa salad, without which it is simply impossible to imagine any festive feast.
The ease of preparation and the availability of ingredients made Olivier salad an extremely popular dish in the Soviet years. Olivier was an indispensable attribute of the Soviet festive table for the New Year and other holidays. Therefore, we want to bring to your attention the exact modern recipe for Olivier salad with a photo (well, in case there are those who do not know it or have forgotten it).
Olivier salad: a classic recipe with a photo and a history of creation
Today we want to talk about a real Russian dish - Olivier salad . The history of Olivier salad is known to few. Despite such a French name, it was invented in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, and the famous Moscow restaurateur of French origin, Lucien Olivier, became its creator. Whose name, in fact, gave the name to this salad.
Olivier salad - a classic recipe (story)
It should be noted that Lucien Olivier was simply a culinary genius, and he composed many dishes and invented a large number of different culinary technologies. As for Olivier salad, in most European countries it is still called "Russian salad".
According to the original idea of its creator olivier was not supposed to be a salad at all- it was a gourmet dish that was called "game mayonnaise." It was the whole composition. The basis was boiled fillet of hazel grouse, finely chopped and laid out together with broth jelly, next to it was an equally exquisite composition of slices of veal tongue and crayfish necks. Above them in the middle was a pyramid of boiled and diced potatoes and gherkins. Boiled eggs, cut into slices, like the potato pyramid itself, were intended solely for decoration. The recipe for mayonnaise used for this dish was also unique.
Salad Olivier - eternal Russian classicWhen the restaurateur first introduced this exquisite dish, he saw in just a few minutes that most of the visitors mix it into a common mixture and already in this form are laid out on plates. Lucien Olivier's indignation knew no bounds. As a sign of protest and in order to express his attitude towards the manners of Russians, more precisely, their lack of manners, the next day the restaurateur specially cut all the ingredients, immediately mixed and seasoned with mayonnaise and served it on the table in this form. Well, the result turned out to be the opposite of what was expected, but very spectacular - the salad made a splash and finally won its place on the festive tables, and later conquered the whole world.
Although all the ingredients used in the original salad are known today, the true recipe has been lost forever, since Lucien Olivier used spices and herbs in his preparation, the names and proportions of which he took with him to another world. However, in the original salad, everything was not so simple - and the mayonnaise was special, and the cooking technology is quite complicated.
Classic Olivier Salad - Recipe
However, modern Olivier salad remains one of the most favorite dishes of our compatriots and it is simply impossible to imagine a festive feast without it. This salad does not drop out of restaurant menus either. Therefore, we want to bring to your attention an accurate modern Olivier salad recipe (well, in case there are those who do not know him or have forgotten):
Olivier salad ingredients:
Olivier salad recipe:
- Wash potatoes and carrots thoroughly and boil until soft, then cool, peel and cut into cubes.
- Boil eggs and also chop.
- Peel the onion and chop finely.
- Cucumbers are also cut into small cubes.
- Peel the apple and cut into cubes.
- Boiled chicken (ham, sausage) cut into cubes.
- We combine all the chopped ingredients in one bowl, add peas there, salt, pepper and season with mayonnaise.
- Mix thoroughly, let it brew a little and serve.
That's the whole secret. And the result will always be unsurpassed.
Olivier salad video recipe
Salad "Olivier" - this is exactly the dish that has a lot of variations:
Salad Olivier is a real classic, just like herring under a fur coat and mimosa salad, without which it is simply impossible to imagine any festive feast.
Lucien Olivier, the Frenchman who invented the salad so popular on our tables, worked as a cook in Russia in the 19th century. By the way, it was Monsieur Olivier who founded the Hermitage restaurant. But the name of this French chef was imprinted in the centuries by the history of origin.
The French chef lived in Moscow for a long time. But he always lacked something in this big city. He realized that he lacked French chic on Russian soil. Then he buys a plot of land and intends to open a French restaurant. If possible, the best in Moscow. Luck does not leave Monsieur Olivier. The Hermitage restaurant is becoming a very popular place among the bourgeoisie, among the nobility and even among ordinary students. At first, the restaurant prepared classic French dishes, the restaurant more than paid for itself. By the way, this building is still preserved. If you wish, you can walk around it and imagine the whole history of the creation of the salad with your own eyes.
The history of the salad "Olivier" begins when the classic French dishes became boring to the Russian people. Monsieur Olivier comes up with a new salad with a very refined taste. Customers immediately call this new salad "Olivier". This is the story of the creation of Olivier salad, but the story is just beginning. Many cooks try to repeat the recipe, but they fail. In the end, the salad recipe was simplified as much as possible.
As a result, Olivier himself revealed the secret of his. Today you can cook exactly the salad that was served at the Hermitage restaurant. True, this recipe will not much resemble our traditional Olivier salad, which every housewife knows how to cook. Olivier salad according to the recipe from the Hermitage restaurant includes boiled fillet of two hazel grouses, boiled veal tongue, 100 g of black caviar, 200 g of lettuce, 25 boiled crayfish (one large lobster will do), 250 g of small cucumbers, soy paste (half a jar ), two chopped fresh cucumbers, 100 gr capers, 5 boiled eggs. This delicacy salad, like its counterpart, was dressed with mayonnaise.
The history of Olivier salad in its modern interpretation is a story of trial and error. After the death of the founder of the Hermitage restaurant, the recipe passed from hand to hand. It was discovered, and the chefs of wealthy metropolitan houses tried to recreate this salad for their employers. This situation continued until the First World War, and then the 1917 revolution also happened. Many of the products that make up the salad were simply impossible to get. There were several new variations of the salad, using those products that could somehow be bought in stores. In Moscow in the 1920s, restaurants served Olivier salad according to a new, modified recipe. It included 6 boiled potatoes, two onions, three carrots, two pickled cucumbers, one apple, 200 grams of boiled poultry fillet, a glass of green peas and three boiled eggs. As before, the salad was dressed only with mayonnaise.
In the 19th century, when Olivier salad was invented, it was made from products that were accessible and understandable for that time. This is the basic principle that has preserved the modern salad recipe. After all, carrots, potatoes and green peas can be obtained at any time of the year and at a relatively low price. True, today all over the world Olivier has the name "Russian salad". Many foreigners love this dish and appreciate its taste.The winter New Year and Christmas holidays are approaching us at a very fast pace. Is it possible to imagine any winter holiday in our area without the traditional Olivier salad? True, it is impossible, because for many years and several generations this salad itself has become one of the integral attributes of New Year's (and all sorts of different) celebrations, even fit into our collective subconscious. But what is the history of this salad so beloved by everyone, what was it made from before and how has it changed over the years, read about all this further.
Olivier salad owes its name and at the same time its appearance to the talented French chef Lucien Olivier. At one time (it was back in the 19th century), this gentleman worked in Moscow on Trubnaya Square as the chief chef in the Hermitage tavern. But do not be surprised at the word "tavern", in fact it was not a tavern in the classical sense (as a place where local drunkards gather to take a good walk), but a real high-quality French restaurant, which was very fond of any sophisticated audience of that time - Russian aristocrats, rich merchants and landowners. To please his demanding customers, Mr. (or rather Monsieur) Olivier came up with new interesting dishes, experimented with various products in every possible way. As you may have guessed, the most outstanding result of his culinary experiments was the appearance of Olivier salad. But this masterpiece did not appear immediately.
First, Lucien Olivier came up with a dish called "game mayonnaise", for the preparation of which, the dish was served with pieces of fillet of hazel grouse and partridge mixed with cubes of jelly from the broth. Nearby lay boiled crayfish necks, poured with a special sauce, and in the center was a small mountain of potatoes with pickled artichokes, garnished with chopped eggs, which were not really intended for food, but were only an element of aesthetic decor.
One day, the great chef saw how one of the visitors to the restaurant, a fat landowner who loved to eat well, without ulterior (and even more so aesthetic) thoughts, simply took and mixed all the ingredients (including those that were only for decoration) and instantly ate everything. According to his satisfied face, Olivier decided to repeat this “feat” and the next day he mixed all the ingredients himself, and even watered them well with mayonnaise ... This is how the salad “of all times and peoples” appeared - Olivier.
But the first Olivier salad, of course, was not at all the way we know it today, but as historical sources say, it was even tastier! Still, for its preparation at the beginning, not some kind of boiled sausage was used, but real hazel grouses, partridges, crayfish necks, in a word, “aristocratic” ingredients, little accessible to the common people (how can one not recall the famous Soviet poet Mayakovsky with his winged: "eat pineapples, chew grouse, your last day comes bourgeois"). And indeed, the then Russian "bourgeois" (late 19th - early 20th century), eating an exquisite (and real!) Olivier salad of grouse and partridge, did not even know that they were chic in recent years, because very soon in 1917 a certain V. Lenin organizes his bloody Bolshevik coup, which Soviet historians would later call the "Great October Revolution."
But back to the Olivier salad, after its invention, it immediately became Monsieur Lucien's trademark, and was in great demand among restaurant visitors. Lucien Olivier kept the recipe for the salad in deep secrecy until the end of his days, and only after his death did it appear on the pages of Our Food magazine for March 1894. Here he is:
Fritillaries - ½ pieces. Potatoes - 3 pieces. Cucumbers - 1 piece. Salad - 3-4 leaves. Mayonnaise Provencal - 1 ½ table. spoons. Cancer necks - 3 pieces. Lanspic - ¼ cup. Capers - 1 teaspoon. Olives - 3-5 pieces. Cooking rules: Cut the fillet of a well-fried hazel grouse and mix with boiled, not crumbly potato blankets and slices of fresh cucumbers, add capers and olives and pour over a large amount of Provencal mayonnaise, with the addition of soy kabul. After cooling, transfer to a crystal vase, arrange with crayfish tails, lettuce leaves and chopped lanspic. Serve very cold. Fresh cucumbers can be replaced with large gherkins. Instead of grouse, you can take veal or chicken, but a real Olivier salad is prepared without fail from grouse.
Now, it's time to go to the store for grouse to feel the taste of real Olivier, as it was prepared before the October Revolution, in the 19th century. With the advent of the scoop, everything changed dramatically: expensive and rare ingredients were replaced by more familiar and cheap ones, boiled sausage instead of hazel grouse, green peas instead of crayfish necks. In the end, it was in the Soviet era that the Olivier salad was formed, which we know to this day, and which, I hope, we will certainly cook very soon. (Maybe this article will inspire some of our readers to cook a real Olivier?) As for the salad itself, it seems that the secret of its such great popularity is in the simplicity of preparation (everything is ingenious - simple, isn't it?) And the relative accessibility of all ingredients in the winter, unlike many "summer" salads, which are unlikely to be prepared in winter. In conclusion, I wish you all happy holidays and delicious Olivier (with or without grouse).
P.S. Ancient chronicles say: In addition to the traditional Olivier salad, an article and something unusual can be a decoration for the festive table, for example, milk oolong is a delicious oriental tea, which is also very healthy.
Salad Olivier. Russians are idealists and great inventors. Russian Sherlock Holmes is the most sincere of all existing ones, films about cowboys are kind and thoroughly saturated with the Russian spirit, and what can we say about the famous "Three Musketeers".
Well, can French pedants compare with the charming Boyarsky with a beaming smile. Not only in the cinema, but also in Russian cooking, the same thing happens. Many dishes from foreign cuisines are processed to suit our needs, acquiring a new, and sometimes completely different taste in our conditions. The same thing happened with Olivier salad. Few people know that the famous Olivier salad was invented by a French chef in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, and the name of the famous chef misleads many. However, a fact is a fact. Lucien Olivier is the founder of the famous Hermitage restaurant, as well as the author of a magnificent and still living salad.
The elite restaurant Hermitage was built by Lucien Olivier after many years of living in Moscow, when he realized what was missing in the Russian capital. Lacked French chic. By joining forces with a wealthy merchant Yakov Pegov, Olivier buys a plot in the center of Moscow and intends to build a first-class restaurant according to the best French models. Already by the mid-60s of the 19th century, a chic building with white columns, crystal chandeliers with isolated cabinets and luxurious interiors arose on the site of a booth selling snuff. For Moscow then it was a novelty, and the emerging bourgeoisie poured into the restaurant. At first, Olivier's establishment was called the Tavern in the Russian way, and the waiters were also dressed in the "tavern way". The following facts can tell about the significance and popularity of the restaurant: in 1879, a gala dinner was held in the Hermitage in honor of I.S. Turgenev, in 1880 - in honor of F.M. Dostoevsky, in 1899 - the famous celebration of the centenary of Pushkin's birthday, which was attended by all the then eminent writers and poets. Anniversaries of university professors were celebrated in the Hermitage, students celebrated Tatyana's Day, intellectuals gathered and rich merchants feasted. In general, the restaurant Olivier, as well as its excellent cuisine, attracted the best people of that time.
Lucien Olivier, the youngest of the three Olivier brothers, being quite young, went to work in Moscow. Like many French people, he hoped to apply his culinary skills in a country that had always respected French cuisine. While his brothers were cooking for French gourmets, Lucien was opening his restaurant Hermitage. At first, the business brought a significant income, and the young Frenchman prepared dishes familiar from childhood. This success was greatly facilitated by the "family" recipe-improvement of mayonnaise or mayonnaise. In the early 19th century, the Olivier family began to add mustard to the sauce, as well as several secret spices, which made the taste of the familiar sauce slightly spicy. The popularity of the Olivier family's mayonnaise was so strong that it allowed the older brothers to keep their business in France, and Lucien to open a Moscow "branch" on Trubnaya Square. The building in which the restaurant was located has survived to this day, this is house number 14 on Petrovsky Boulevard, corner of Neglinnaya. So someday a memorial plaque or a whole monument to Olivier Salad may appear on it.
The restaurant in which Lucien Olivier worked But everything is transient in this world, and gradually sauce alone was not enough for the success of the establishment. Its taste quickly became boring, and the changeable fashion swayed towards skinny, pale young ladies, whose beauty, of course, was hindered by appetizing and high-calorie Olivier sauces. It was necessary to urgently come up with something. And then Lucien Olivier came up with a new salad, a true work of art. His taste was so refined that it instantly brought the Frenchman the fame of a great chef, and the popularity of his restaurant, which was beginning to fade, flared up with renewed vigor. The visitors named the new salad Olivier Salad, which was quite in the tradition of Russian names. Since then, the name Olivier has become a household name, and they tried to repeat the salad countless times, in the end, simplifying the recipe so much that its modern version is the complete opposite of the original. Many chefs tried to repeat the Olivier recipe, but, not knowing all the ingredients, they inevitably failed - the taste of the real Olivier Salad could only be appreciated in the Hermitage restaurant.
The taste of the famous dish was to a large extent obtained due to Monsieur Olivier's own mayonnaise recipe. It was said that the Frenchman zealously kept the recipe for cooking and the operation for its preparation was carried out in a special room behind a closed door. The path of the sauce was not easy. Initially, Olivier made exactly the sauce called “Game Mayonnaise”. It consisted of boiled fillets of hazel grouse and partridge, laid in layers of jelly from the broth. Around the edges of the dish were boiled crayfish necks and small pieces of the tongue. All this was flavored with a small amount of own-made Provencal sauce. In the center, the structure was decorated with a potato hill with gherkins and slices of boiled eggs, as a decoration. At the same time, the central potato part, according to the author's intention, was intended rather for beauty. One day, Lucien Olivier noticed that some Russians who ordered this dish immediately broke the whole plan, stirring the whole structure with a spoon, and devoured this delicious mass with great appetite. The next day, an enterprising Frenchman mixed all the ingredients and poured thick sauce. This is how the famous salad was born, reborn from an exquisite, but inconvenient “game mayonnaise” into an equally refined, but closer to the Russian soul, “Olivier salad”.
The salad became the hallmark of the restaurant and was prepared for many years until one of Olivier's assistants stole the recipe for Provence sauce. The exact copy of the Olivier salad that appeared at the competitors angered the French chef and pushed him to make a more tasty and refined dish. However, the stolen recipe for the sauce still couldn't compare to the French one. Something was missing in the taste, with identical components, the Olivier sauce was much more tender. Gradually, the famous salad disappeared from the menu of the Hermitage restaurant, and its numerous copies “put into circulation” became simpler and simpler. The salad began to live its own life and Monsieur Olivier could no longer influence it in any way.
Here is the recipe for the classic “Olivier salad” prepared at the best of times at the Hermitage restaurant (restored in 1904 according to the descriptions of one restaurant regular):
Fillet of two boiled hazel grouses,
One boiled veal tongue,
About 100 grams of pressed black caviar,
200 grams of fresh lettuce leaves,
25 boiled crayfish or one large lobster
200-250 grams of small cucumbers,
Half a can of soy kabul (soybean paste),
2 finely chopped fresh cucumbers
100 grams of capers,
5 finely chopped, hard-boiled eggs.Sauce Provence: 400 grams of olive oil beaten with two fresh egg yolks, with the addition of French vinegar and mustard.
One of the secrets of the classic taste of Olivier salad was the addition of some spices by the Frenchman. The composition of these seasonings, unfortunately, is unknown, so the true taste of the salad can only be imagined according to the descriptions of contemporaries.
The cooking itself was no less exciting.
Fry the hazel grouse in a 1-2 cm layer of oil on a strong flame for 5-10 minutes. Then put them in boiling water or broth (beef or chicken), add 150 ml of Madeira per 850 ml of broth, 10-20 pitted olives, 10-20 small mushrooms and cook for 20-30 minutes over low heat under the lid. When the meat begins to separate slightly from the bones, salt, let it cook for a couple more minutes and turn off the flame.Place the pot of grouse, without pouring out the broth, into a large bowl of cold water and let cool. The purpose of this is to let the grouse meat cool down gradually. The fact is that when separated in hot form, the meat begins to dry out and loses its tenderness. However, it is necessary not to overdo it and separate the warm meat - do not let the hazel grouse freeze, otherwise it will completely stop being removed from the bones. Wrap the removed meat in foil and place in a cold place. Do not pour out the broth after boiling the mushrooms - it will make a great soup! (if you do not find hazel grouses and decide to replace them with chicken, remember - the chicken must be cut into 2-3 parts and cooked a little longer - 30-40 minutes).
The tongue should be free of fat, lymph nodes, sublingual muscle tissue and mucus. Perhaps half of the language will be enough. Thoroughly rinse the tongue in cold water, put it in cold water, bring to a boil and cook over low heat with a tightly closed lid for 2-4 hours (the time depends on the age of the tongue owner - 2 hours will be enough for a young calf). Half an hour before the tongue is ready, add chopped carrots, parsley root, onions and a piece of bay leaf to the same saucepan. Salt 5-10 minutes before the end of cooking. As soon as the tongue is cooked, immediately put it in a container of cold water for 20-30 seconds, then put it on a plate and remove the skin from it (if the tongue still burns your fingers, dip it again in water). After cleaning the tongue, put it back into the broth and quickly bring it to a boil, then turn off the flame and leave the saucepan to cool in a large container filled with ice water. Wrap the cooled tongue in foil and place in a cold place.
Cut the pressed caviar into small cubes.
Wash the lettuce thoroughly, dry and chop just before cooking.
Dip the live crayfish washed in cold water into the boiling solution head down. To prepare a solution for cooking crayfish, take: 25 grams of parsley, onions and carrots, 10 grams of tarragon, 30-40 grams of dill, 1 bay leaf, a few peas of allspice and 50 grams of salt. After placing the crayfish in boiling water, let the water boil again and cook for another 10 minutes. After turning off the fire, do not take it out immediately, but let the crayfish brew, then cool the pan with ready-made crayfish using the method described above.
Finely chop the pickles right before mixing. Grind the soybeans before adding them to the salad. Peel fresh cucumbers and chop finely (not necessarily evenly - you can also “chop”). Finely chop the capers as well, after drying them.
Eggs should be large and fresh. Do not overcook them under any circumstances. Pay close attention to this part. The feeling from the eggs should be fresh, the protein should be tender, not rubbery. Boil for 7-8 minutes, but not 15.
Chop all the ingredients and mix (try to do this carefully, moving from bottom to top). Add homemade mayonnaise and serve immediately. It is important to take into account the amount of alcohol drunk by the guests. The more, the hotter the sauce should be. If the guests are sober, then it would be more logical to season with classic mayonnaise in order to appreciate the delicate taste of all the ingredients.
This was the recipe when it was reproduced by one of the restaurant's regular customers. Perhaps something was not taken into account, but the main components that are difficult to hide from the sophisticated public are present in the recipe. The secret of the spices that made the taste of the dish special and unique has unfortunately been lost. After the death of Lucien Olivier in 1883, the Hermitage restaurant went to the "Olivier partnership", for a long time the restaurant changed hands, and the famous recipe went to the rich houses of the capital, or rather the kitchens of these houses. The personal chefs of many of the richest people in the capital tried to recreate the recipe of the French master and offered this eminent salad at dinner parties. This situation could have lasted forever, if not for the First World War, and then the 1917 revolution. The abrupt disappearance of many products hurt the Olivier salad. At that time, there was no time for frills - for many years the country plunged into the darkness of timelessness, and on the food side - into severe hunger and a rationing system for distributing products. But already in 1924, the era of the New Economic Policy begins and the country again appears, it seemed, irrevocably gone products. However, many things could not be returned. Branded "bourgeois" hazel grouses or cancer necks became inaccessible, and simply irrelevant among the then townspeople.
The NEP times gave us several varieties of salad, which, at the very least, was prepared in restaurants. One of these restaurants, and I must say the central one at that time, since the highest party workers dined there, was the Moscow restaurant. It was headed by the same Ivan Mikhailovich Ivanov, who, being young, stole the salad recipe from the master himself - Lucien Olivier. This shameful act, however, retained, albeit in a modified form, but close to the original recipe for the famous dish. And the realities of time have made their changes to the recipe.
Products for making Olivier salad and so on - the recipe for "Olivier Salad" according to the Moscow restaurant in the mid-20s of the 20th century:
Ingredients:
6 potatoes
2 heads of onions,
3 medium sized carrots
2 pickled cucumbers,
1 apple
200 grams of boiled poultry meat,
1 cup green peas
3 boiled eggs
half a cup of olive mayonnaise
salt, pepper to taste.Cooking:
Vegetables take medium size, fresh. Chop all the ingredients finely and very evenly into equal pieces. Boil potatoes and carrots, peel, chop everything, mix and season with mayonnaise, garnish with parsley and apple slices on top.In the early 30s, the chef of the Moscow restaurant, Ivan Mikhailovich Ivanov, corrected the recipe of Lucien Olivier according to the time, calling the salad "Capital". This name is not reflected in the book On Tasty and Healthy Food of 1939, but it does contain "Game Salad", the recipe of which is strikingly similar to Olivier's salad. The “Capital Salad”, which has come down to the 1955 cookbook, has an adapted, but nevertheless close to the original composition.
Salad Capital
Ingredients:
60 g poultry or game
60 g potatoes
40 g fresh, pickled or pickled cucumbers,
10 g green salad,
10 g of cancer necks,
45 g eggs
15 g sauce "Southern",
70 g mayonnaise,
10 g pickles,
10 olives.Cooking:
Boiled or fried poultry or game, boiled peeled potatoes, fresh, pickled or pickled cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, cut into thin slices (2-2.5 cm each). Finely chop lettuce leaves. Mix everything, season with mayonnaise, add South sauce. Lay the salad in a salad bowl and decorate with mugs or slices of a hard-boiled egg, slices of pickles, lettuce, mugs of fresh cucumbers. On the salad, you can put beautifully sliced \u200b\u200bgame fillets, crayfish necks or pieces of canned crabs and olives.The main principle - to chop everything and season with mayonnaise - has become widespread in the vast Soviet and post-Soviet space, has given rise to many variations on the theme of the famous salad, and the modern version of Olivier salad is called "Russian salad" or "salade a la Russe" all over the world. Fritillaries were first replaced with partridges, then chicken, and then just sausage. There were also recipes with beef, but this is too hard a component, and the beef did not take root. Crayfish necks, unfortunately, have sunk into oblivion, and in the 20th century they were no longer added to the salad, boiled carrots were added instead. Capers were replaced with more affordable green peas, and onions appeared in the salad, which immediately acquired a spicy taste. Salad leaves were replaced with parsley. Soy, veal tongue, as well as pressed black caviar (and truffles, according to one version), also disappeared from the recipe. Mayonnaise from home-made mayonnaise was replaced with a factory one. Be that as it may, Olivier salad continued to live even in these difficult conditions, being a symbol of chic and delicacy for a significant part of the impoverished country. In the post-war period, in the second half of the 50s, when the country was experiencing strong growth and the standard of living rose again, the old salad reappeared on the festive table. Many products returned to the market, but even banal peas or Provence mayonnaise were a terrible shortage, and these products were always set aside to create a “holiday” Olivier salad. To simplify, Olivier's salad recipe acquired the main thing - from a rather high-calorie dish, with tasty, but still heavy and expensive components, the salad moved into the category of vegetable salad, the meat share of which was incomparably small.
As in the 19th century, modern Olivier salad is made from the products that are most available at the moment. If then caviar, crayfish tails, hazel grouse and capers were available, now it is boiled sausage, green peas, carrots and onions. And mayonnaise can be bought at the store. Losing expensive ingredients, the salad inevitably gained popularity among the general population of one-sixth of the planet, and now boasts not just a name, but the name of a whole class of salads that began to appear in the late Soviet era. After all, a salad with canned fish, and crab sticks, as well as numerous other Soviet salads, appeared thanks to the ingenuity and partly poverty of the counters, forcing the imagination of housewives and cooks to work. The symbolic significance of Olivier salad for Russian cuisine cannot be overestimated. This is always the main dish on the table, in the best salad bowl, no other salad is honored with such a constant presence at the festive feast. The tradition of putting food on plates is indicative. Olivier is always put either first or next after the potatoes. This respectful attitude towards a simple salad could not be hidden from the unscrupulous gaze of foreign guests, who, of course, were also treated to Olivier salad. Throughout the rest of the world, our salad is known as "Russian salad", but it is most correct to call the modern version of the dish "Soviet Olivier". Like “Soviet champagne”, it has its own destiny, its own unforgettable taste and is considered just as powerful and indestructible symbol of the holiday.
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