Meat holding chambers. Aging meat by express method

The recently brought up topic of trying to cook beef properly, as it should be on close examination, revealed additional nuances.

Many, like me, have probably heard something and somewhere about the ripening and aging of meat, but as it turned out, no one has a more or less complete understanding. On the Internet, by the way, there is also very little information, as it were.

Photo courtesy of turkeston

I don’t know why, but when it comes to aging or maturing meat, it usually means beef, especially since in English this is called the phrase “beef aging”, i.e. in translation - aging beef.

Meat autolysis
But it turns out, to be precise, from a scientific point of view, the processes occurring in the meat after the slaughter of an animal are called autolytic, and scientists study the autolysis of meat.

Autolysis - (from Auto... and Greek lýsis decomposition, decay), self-digestion of tissues of animals, plants and microorganisms.)

From what I was able to learn, one can unequivocally conclude that these processes are very complex and, apparently, have not yet been studied with absolute accuracy. Therefore, I did not focus on chemistry, but focused on more understandable, applied nuances. When you first look at autolysis, it becomes clear that it applies to absolutely any meat, even fish, and not just beef. Therefore, it is somewhat incorrect to speak only about the maturation of beef.

Autolysis of any meat is characterized by at least 3 main stages.

Steam meat. This meat is immediately after the slaughter of the animal. It is soft, elastic, characterized by good moisture content and moisture retention. True, as experts say, it has a less pronounced aroma and taste. Although mild when cooked. Shepherds told me that there is nothing better than steamed lamb skewers, no one marinates it, they only fry it with salt and pepper, stringing it on skewers while still warm. But fresh meat is not so long.

Depending on the type of animal, ambient temperature and other factors, after a while the meat enters the rigor mortis phase.
On average, it is believed that for rabbits and birds, rigor mortis at normal temperature occurs after 30 minutes, and at 0 0 C, it takes a little more time, about 4-6 hours. Cattle enter rigor mortis somewhat later, taking 10 to 24 hours to complete, depending on the temperature, size of the animals, nature of the food and living conditions, and even their mental state and other factors. It should be noted that stiffness of meat does not occur quite evenly in parts of the carcass.

Meat in a state of rigor mortis is the most uninteresting. It sharply increases rigidity and elasticity. Scientific evidence shows that shear stress and modulus of elasticity increase by as much as two times. For some reason, acidity, the so-called Ph, goes to the acid side, from 7 units to 5.5. Other changes are also observed. It is clear that the preparation of such meat will not give good results.
Analyzing current trends, we can conclude that very often we just eat meat in a state of rigor mortis or close to it. For example, a bull was slaughtered yesterday, and today they brought it to the market. And we just bought it today, in a day or even 12 hours, at the most "suitable" moment for rigor mortis, and ran to cook it.

But, thank God, after the onset of rigor mortis, the meat enters the next phase, the so-called resolution of rigor mortis or the maturation stage. This is where all the fun begins.

Meat maturation

Due to autolytic processes, meat undergoes metamorphoses, it becomes softer even than fresh meat, shear stress and modulus of elasticity from 100 units (fresh meat) decrease to almost 60, in addition, experts testify to positive changes in other organoleptic characteristics. In a word, the meat becomes simply magnificent.

But with the maturation of meat, everything is far from simple. Until now, there are no uniform criteria for assessing the degree of maturation. There is also no single recommended technology. Meanwhile, holding temperature and time are very important conditions. And also there are related problems, this is the development of microorganisms and the subsequent tendency of meat to spoilage, as well as the loss of moisture in the meat, the so-called shrinkage.

The higher the holding temperature, the faster the maturation occurs, but the higher the likelihood of meat spoilage, and accordingly the requirements for maintaining sterility increase. The lower the holding temperature, the longer it takes to mature, but the meat is less prone to spoilage.

It is worth noting that after a certain stage of maturation, the characteristics of the meat cease to change and further aging becomes meaningless, moreover, the meat enters the stage of deep autolysis, in simple terms, it begins to actively decompose with the release of certain odors, mucus, and so on.

In the old days, butchers were guided only by their sense of smell and tactile sensations. Apparently, they are guided by this even now, only by adding a little science.

There are several approaches to the maturation of meat.

Ancient methods prescribed keeping meat at temperatures close to 0 0 C, at a humidity of about 85% to reduce shrinkage, as well as with high ventilation of the premises to prevent the active development of microorganisms. It was recommended to constantly wipe the meat or wrap it in constantly changing shrouds of plain fabric. This is the so-called "dry" method, "dry aging".
Shrinkage up to 25% of the original weight was considered normal. Whole carcasses or rather large parts of the carcass were subjected to such aging. During maturation, they usually dried on the outside, covered with a film, which had to be removed when preparing the meat for cooking. At the same time, special incisions could be made on some carcasses to improve ventilation to prevent premature spoilage. It is clear that in this way it is extremely difficult to ripen individual steaks. Since the aging process required additional costs and threatened to lose the weight of the carcass by almost a quarter, only the most elite varieties of meat were subjected to such a procedure - well-fed carcasses of certain breeds, mainly Angus, specially fattened, with a lot of fat and marble veins. In this way, the meat could be aged for more than 25 days, up to a month.

Modern approaches are less conservative. So, it was found that at a temperature of 37 0 C, the ripening of meat occurs in just 4-5 hours. Therefore, now at industrial plants, meat can be subjected to electrical stimulation, as well as exposure to high-frequency currents with heating up to 39-40 0 C. In addition, it can be saturated with special solutions that accelerate aging. And to prevent the development of microorganisms, ultraviolet irradiation can be used, which, if I'm not mistaken, is the norm, for example, for hospital operating rooms and other places requiring sterility.

There are also other industrial approaches, the most common is called "wet" maturation, "wet aging". The meaning of the method is that the meat ripens already cut into portions and enclosed in vacuum packaging. In this form, it is little susceptible to spoilage, which allows it to withstand the time required for ripening.

Although there is an opinion that technologies that minimize the shrinkage of meat during its ripening do not allow to achieve a truly rich taste.

However, even conservative methods are subject to revision, for example, in one of the studies it was shown that increasing the temperature of meat ripening to + 4 0 C can reduce the maximum aging period to 16 days. That allows you to reduce the level of costs.

As an approximate reference value, it can be considered that the full maturation of beef is:
- at a temperature of 1-2 0 С 10-14 days
- at a temperature of 10-15 0 С 4-5 days
- At a temperature of 18 0 С 3 days

As for pork, I did not find exact data on the time required for ripening, some sources suggest that this time is comparable to the time indicated for beef, others, on the contrary, state that pork does not need long exposure and it needs no more than a day.
Regarding lamb, I, guided by my own experience, albeit not rich, still tend to believe that some exposure improves its quality.
At first, I made a reservation about fish, for most varieties of fish, aging is contraindicated due to the high probability of active bacterial growth, which, as it turns out, fish is very prone to.

Home maturing of meat.

As a rule, it is not recommended to engage in the maturation of meat at home. Since it is necessary to be sure of the sterility of not only your kitchen, but also the process of slaughtering and cutting the carcass into pieces. In addition, no one will guarantee that your nose and eyes will not fail. However, I came across the recommendations of one butcher about home ripening meat.
An uncut piece of beef meat, preferably a large one with outer films, must be thoroughly washed and dried. Then place on the coldest shelf of the refrigerator, wrapped in linen, a piece must be wiped several times a day and the wrapper changed to a new one. The old one must be carefully washed off the blood and dried, after which it will become suitable for subsequent use. This process continues for 16 days, after which you can cut into pieces and fry. If the meat is not eaten within 22 days, it is recommended to transfer it to the freezer and store it for no more than two months.

From myself, I’ll note, it’s probably permissible to ripen meat in the refrigerator, wrapping it in cling film, after thoroughly washing and drying it, some kind of vacuuming. By the way, I think that in two weeks even a fairly large piece can be eaten, and, as it were, the issue of freezing meat becomes less relevant.

It seems that everything, additions and clarifications from connoisseurs are not only desirable, but also probably mandatory.

The Village is launching a column with expert advice on how to improve everyday activities in the kitchen. Each week, we'll explain how to properly prepare or preserve food, and share tricks that will make your time in the kitchen easier and more fun. In the first issue, we figure out whether it is possible to make an aged steak yourself at home and how.

Contrary to popular belief, fresh beef is not the gourmet's best choice. It is beef meat that wins if it is not quite fresh, but aged. Exposure makes it softer and more tasty, rich and fragrant. This happens because the enzymes in the meat continue to act, that is, break down proteins and fats into simpler components, which leads to softening of muscle tissue and the appearance of new aromatic molecules.

Meat can be aged for quite a long time, but the first results are felt after a few days. Most often, beef for steaks is aged for two to three weeks, and in extreme cases, the aging period can be up to several months. But not everything is so simple: for aging meat, it is necessary to comply with certain conditions.

One of the most important conditions is storage temperature. It should be close to zero degrees Celsius, but not lower, since we do not need the meat to freeze.

There are two types of meat aging: wet and dry. In the first case, the meat is kept in a vacuum bag, without air access, and in the second - as it is, without covering anything. Moist aging does not change the product much and is suitable if you don’t want to bother too much: it takes less time, there is no loss of moisture, and there is no need for special equipment (except for a conventional refrigerator). True aging is dry. With it, the meat, of course, will dry out and lose 25-30% of its mass, due to which the meat taste will become more saturated. In addition, the controlled fermentation process will significantly soften the meat and give it new flavors, the most expressive of which is nutty.

It is beef that wins in case it is not quite fresh, but aged. Aging makes it softer and more delicious, full-bodied and fragrant.

In order to properly age a piece of meat in this way, it is necessary not only to maintain the correct storage temperature, but also to take care of a humidity of 80-85% and constant air circulation in the chamber where the exposure takes place. All this is necessary so that the meat begins to dry out, but not too slowly (in this case, mold will grow on the surface) and not too quickly (so it will dry out completely and turn into a piece of wood).

After dry aging, the outer dried layer of meat will have to be cut off, and this is an additional loss in mass. Therefore, it makes sense to withstand large uncut pieces on the bone, such as the lumbar part (New York steaks, striploin, shortloin) or the rib part (rib eye) - in this case, the valuable pulp is covered with bones and external fat, which will dry out during the aging process .

Is it possible to age beef steak at home? Sure, but in a slightly different way. Dry aging in its pure form is not possible here, but there is a little trick. Since the home refrigerator does not function as a holding chamber (no humidity control and no air circulation), the unpleasant consequences of mold and other bacteria growth can be prevented by thoroughly sprinkling plain table salt on the outside of the meat. Salt will not only inhibit the development of bacteria on the surface of the cut, but will also draw out some of the moisture, which will make the steak dry on the surface, and during the frying process it will actually fry (a wet surface would prevent this). The steaks sprinkled with salt should be laid out on a grate covered with gauze: the bottom of the steak also needs air access. You can cover with another layer of gauze on top so that the fabric quickly removes excess moisture.

This aging method is ideal for already cut steaks, but you should not keep them in your home refrigerator for more than two or three days: this time is enough to feel the benefits of aging, and the steak is guaranteed not to spoil.

Not everything is as simple as it seems. Dry aging is a high-tech process that requires a chamber that maintains humidity and air convection.

Wet is easier: a regular refrigerator will do, but you must be sure that the supplier did not violate the temperature regime during transportation. If the temperature was not constant and, for example, rose from zero to six degrees Celsius, the shelf life is reduced. But first of all, it is important that the meat is packed and vacuumed according to all the rules. You can’t just buy chilled meat from the market and vacuum it yourself: you don’t know if hygiene and temperature were observed during slaughter, if knives were sterilized, how many people in the market walked past a piece of meat, touched it with their fingers or sneezed. If you vacuum such meat, create in a vacuum a breeding ground for microorganisms that are not afraid of either low temperature or lack of air, and let them do their dirty work.

0 1 0 12084

Have you suspected that marbled meat is rather bad than good, and fresh meat should not be eaten at all? Every salesperson in LavkaLavka knows this. Here are excerpts from a lecture on meat given to all beginners.

Farm meat is no different from industrial meat

It's different, and very different.

90% of the taste of meat depends on the conditions in which the animal was kept. The ideal option is free grazing. In an animal that does not stand in a stall, but walks through the pasture, eats various types of grass, normal immunity is formed and the meat has a normal taste. It is less susceptible to diseases, there is no need for antibiotics. The meat of such an animal is more structural, its taste is more saturated. And most importantly, such meat is healthier, it is much richer in vitamins and microelements.

An animal that lives in the artificially created conditions of agricultural holdings gets sick more often, it is literally stuffed with antibiotics, which are given to everyone indiscriminately - for prevention. In many poultry farms and agro-complexes, the antibiotic is simply sprayed into the air.

Farmers practice free grazing of animals. For example, at Julia and Vladimir Krotovs, Hereford cows walk on 500 hectares of land, of which 150 are reserved for pastures. The calves are raised according to North American technologies: for 210 days the calf walks to the pasture suckling with a cow, followed by 120-150 days of intensive fattening. There are no permanent buildings for keeping livestock on the farm, only wind-retaining fences and light tripartite canopies.

Farmer Alexander Brodovsky has Galloway cows in the forest in winter. And in summer they graze on pastures equipped with electroshepherds.

Animals on the farm of Alexander Pocheptsov generally live on an island near the city of Kovrov.

Marble meat is good

Actually, it's rather bad.

The marbling of meat is a consequence of the natural property of the body to accumulate fat between muscle fibers. But this property is manifested only in captivity. Free-range animals almost never accumulate fat, which means that wild animals will never produce marbled meat, because they are constantly on the move, get their own food and do not get an excess amount of calories.

To obtain marbled meat, animals are immobilized - placed in stalls and transferred from a natural herbal diet to a cereal diet. As a result, animals become simply obese. At the same time, there is so much fat that it passes inside the tissues, inside the muscles.

It is beneficial for the producer to grow cows in cramped stalls - it is much more expensive to keep them on free pasture. It is profitable for restaurants to buy marbled meat - it cooks instantly, is always soft and it is almost impossible to spoil it. From a business point of view, it is convenient and profitable. From the point of view of humanity and attitude to nature, this is terrible. In addition, compare the taste of a piece of marble and just good beef and you will understand where the taste of beef is, and where it is just some kind of incomprehensible meat. Marbled meat has only one advantage: it is guaranteed to be tender. But softness is not the most important indicator of the quality of meat.

You need to buy only fresh meat

No need.

Pair meat is called immediately after the slaughter of the animal and cutting the carcass - for poultry it is 30 minutes, for cattle and pork - 2 hours. There are a lot of microorganisms, bacteria in fresh meat, the protein of such meat has a complex structure and is very poorly absorbed by the human body. Eating fresh meat can actually lead to poisoning. Meat must be fermented. Fermentation is the controlled decomposition of meat, when bacteria and microorganisms eat a specific protein cell, digest it and return it in a form that is simpler for humans. The complex structure of the cell becomes more understandable to our body. Under the action of its own enzymes, the meat begins to self-digest itself. This is a complex and still not fully understood biochemical process of decomposition, decomposition of carbohydrates and stress hormones (adrenaline, norepinephrine), accompanied by the synthesis of ATP (adenosine triphosphoric acid) and the formation of lactic acid, resulting in increased acidity of meat, it becomes segmented, as well as juicy, tender, aromatic and more resistant to bacterial spoilage. A lot of products are fermented, but we do not think about it: coffee, kvass, chocolate, bread, cottage cheese and much more.

Aged meat is not fresh.

Aged steak.Photo: Lisa Zhitskaya

Once again: aging meat is a necessary technological process, the same as, say, its heat treatment.

Exposure is of two types: dry (dry-aged) and wet (wet-aged).

Dry exposure. The essence of this technology is that after slaughter, the meat (in pieces or half carcasses) is hung out in special refrigeration chambers for maturation. For this, premium beef with an even distribution of fat is used. The temperature in the chamber is maintained from 0 to -2 degrees, and the humidity should be at the level of 65-75%. The carcass hangs in such a chamber for at least 14 days. During these 14 days, rigor mortis goes away, the meat becomes softer. Moisture evaporates, the meat becomes more dense and rich in taste.

For example, such a part of the carcass as the flank is very difficult to prepare and requires a long stew. But if the flank is subjected to dry aging (30-45 days), then you can make an excellent steak. The disadvantage of fermentation for the manufacturer is that it is, in fact, a money freeze. At the same time, the meat also decreases in volume and weight - by 13% or more. Therefore, aging meat is not very economically profitable. The price of such a product is higher, but the shelf life is longer. In most countries, the shelf life of meat after aging is at least 2 weeks. According to the Soviet GOST, which is in force in Russia and now - 3 days. This is another reason that most aging producers simply “give it up”.

Wet aging is a less efficient but much cheaper process. With wet exposure, the meat is placed in a vacuum bag and sealed in a vacuum cleaner. With this aging method, the meat retains its moisture, but a slight sourness appears due to fermentation. During wet aging, the meat does not lose moisture and loses very little in weight.

This led to the fact that the Russians irrationally used such an expensive resource as meat. And almost all the meat was either stewed or minced.

And some parts of the meat were not really used, for example, the drumstick, flank, tail, neck. From these parts in Soviet cooking, at best, they made broth, at worst, they gave it to dogs.

Tenderloin in a standard carcass maximum 2-2.5 kg. Where does tenderloin and fillet edge come from in such quantities on store shelves? Some are imported from Brazil through Poland to Belarus, where they are thawed, new stamps are put on it and sold as fresh to Russia. Thus, when we exclusively consume premium cuts of meat, we stimulate gray schemes for its entry into the market. In addition, under the guise of a premium, for tangible money, we get a junk product.

At the same time, premium cuts of meat are often used for other purposes. Broths are cooked from them, cutlets are made. If for cutlets, then you don’t need to take a tenderloin, take a better thigh. It's tastier and cheaper.

The French, Brazilians, Americans butcher each muscle in the carcass separately with a small knife. And for each piece, an individual muscle has its own recipes, since each muscle is unique and has its own characteristics, structure, amount of fat, fiber arrangement, juiciness, hardness, amount of connective tissue and much more. After all, in the meat carcass everything is edible, except for the horns, hooves and lymph nodes. And it makes sense to understand all this.

Do you think you can easily make tender steaks with unique juiciness and impeccable taste? Even perfect beef is difficult to create a good dish. In online stores you can find any parts of grain and grass-fed meat. However, few people pay attention to beef aging. It is on this indicator that the taste and texture of your steak depends! What is the maturation and fermentation of meat, and why is it so difficult to prepare a gourmet dish from an ordinary fresh piece?

Meat that has lain down at a certain temperature and humidity for a certain number of days becomes richer in taste, more aromatic, softens perfectly during cooking and cooks quickly. Even the broth comes out clear and has an amazing smell, rather than boiled from fresh beef.

It is very easy to explain: chemical processes take place in the muscles that affect the structure of the piece, the structure of proteins. The meat is fermented. During aging, acidity rises, new substances are formed, which create that divine taste and aroma of a fried delicacy.

What happens to the cuts after the animal is slaughtered?

Meat is considered paired only for 2-3 hours. The fibers are elastic, the texture is delicate. It is this product that the Italians use to make Carpaccio! It is not sold in the markets, since a person will not physically have time to prepare it for sale in such a short time.

Rigor occurs throughout the day. The muscles remain elastic, but slightly shortened. With each passing hour, the coefficient of rigidity increases, as well as the resistance at the cut, so it is undesirable to portion such meat. The pieces will come out uneven, the so-called "ladder".

Own ripening of beef occurs in 2-3 days. Blood no longer enters the muscles, so they do not receive oxygen, and all oxidative processes slow down. The amount of phosphoric and lactic acids increases, due to which rapid muscle contraction occurs. As a result, the water is partially removed (meat juice flows into the tray), and the collagen swells and loosens. At the same time, acids prevent the appearance of bad microorganisms.

deep autolysis. The number of acids is rapidly increasing (adenyl, inosine), and esters and aldehydes also appear. It is from these substances that the taste of the finished dish, the appearance of specific aromas depend. The cut becomes softer, as it loses its elasticity; when pressed, the hole does not disappear. The product breaks up into fibers, but their longitudinal and transverse striation is preserved, which is important to pay attention to. The raw material acquires a dark red hue. The cut comes out even and beautiful, as the piece becomes dense throughout its thickness.

It is during the period of its own maturation and deep autolysis that it is necessary to create acceptable conditions for the maturation of the meat product. Otherwise, the raw material will simply deteriorate.

However, all chemical processes are different. If, due to the low qualification of the staker, convulsions were observed in cattle, it means that autolysis will pass faster, and the quality of the meat will deteriorate significantly. The speed of maturation depends on the health of the bull, as well as on its fatness, growing conditions, feeding, age. "Young" meat matures faster than the muscles of an adult animal. So that the product does not deteriorate during aging, it is worth making sure in advance of the quality of the raw materials that all sanitary standards were observed during slaughter and cutting.

Aging beef cut

Manufacturers and cooks save raw materials for steak in different ways, strictly observing all technological processes. Let us dwell on the most basic types of maturation. It is important to initially take a good piece of meat. If the temperature regime was violated during storage and transportation, then it is better not to risk it and cook the beef immediately. You should not buy a product from the market, as you do not know how many buyers have touched this piece. It is best to order raw materials from a trusted butcher.

Wet maturation of beef (wet-aged)

Wet aging can be applied to any cut. Usually meat is taken without bone: Tenderloin, Chateaubriand (thick and thin edge, tenderloin). Chefs use this method for portion cuts, since the loss of moisture and weight of the product is minimal.


The meat is placed in a vacuum bag and sealed. The main thing is to pump out all the air in order to stop the oxidative processes. This can be done at home, but you should first disinfect the vacuum cleaner.

Sterility must be given special importance!

You can put a special pad or parchment in the bag, which will absorb the released meat juice. The product is placed in the refrigerator (1-3 degrees). The aging period is small, 3-10 days. It all depends on the characteristics of the meat, so it is advisable to view it every day. The piece should thicken a little, lose elasticity, be sure to darken, while the fat must remain white.

The steak, created from raw materials of wet aging, comes out juicy, tender and with a refined taste. In the process of ripening, juices are released, which provoke the appearance of lactic acid bacteria. It is they that give the meat a sour-metallic flavor, which gives an original touch to the overall flavor of the product. It can be removed if the meat is wrapped in a special paper (pad) before vacuuming.

Dry aging of meat (dry-aged)

Dry-aged cuts are incredibly valued and quite expensive.

The ripening technology is complex, so it is difficult to repeat it at home.

In order for the meat not to rot, the humidity and temperature in the chamber must be carefully controlled, and the product must be provided with good ventilation.

Otherwise, the pieces will have to be thrown away, as they will turn out to be toxic, hazardous to health.

Dry aging features:

• It is advisable to take whole cuts, since this method is not suitable for portioned pieces: they will dry out completely.
• The flesh must be protected by bones or fat. If this is not the case, you can grease the piece with beef lard, but this is done in extreme cases! A week later, the process must be repeated.
• All metal fixtures (hooks and gratings) must be made of stainless steel and disinfected before use.
• Cuts are hung or laid out on grates at a considerable distance from each other so that the piece is completely blown with air.
• For dry exposure, special equipment is used (refrigerators with convection). Some models need to be connected to the water supply.
• The optimum temperature for fermentation is 2-4 degrees, humidity - 72-76%.
• You can eat only after 21 days, not earlier! On the 120th day of maturation, gourmets consider the product to be real gold.

In order for the meat to come out amazing in taste and without an unpleasant odor, it must be monitored with special care: periodically turn over and pay attention to the formation of a crust. It should appear gradually.

Attention!

If the drying process of the top layer is very slow, then the product will begin to rot from the inside.

If the crust resembles a shell (very dense and thick), then moisture will not be able to leave the deep layers of the product. This will provoke the development of harmful microorganisms, and the raw materials will again deteriorate.

What happens to meat for 120 days?

Here is how the cuts change visually:

When the meat is ready, it is necessary to cut off the crust (until the reddish flesh appears), wrap it in a cotton towel and store in the refrigerator for 3 days. If necessary, you can freeze, but experienced chefs do not recommend doing this, as the taste of the dish noticeably deteriorates.

What is the difference between dry aged and wet aged cuts?

Both methods of meat ripening differ in many respects.

Since the technology of wet aging is low-cost, does not require special equipment, it is actually used by 90% of companies that deliver meat around the world.

Aged beef cuts at home

Usually aged Teebone or Striploin cooks get in specialized firms. We have a wonderful article. Often they put on maturation on their own: the restaurant management buys the necessary equipment.

At home, you can also prepare meat for steaks. The wet method does not require special equipment and tight control, so it is easy to repeat at home. Dry aging requires proper knowledge and strict control of temperature and humidity. How to prepare a cut for frying so as not to throw away an expensive product in a week?

Methods for dry aging meat in a conventional refrigerator

Method number 1. Place a piece of cotton fabric or gauze on the grate. Load a cut on it, and cover it with a cloth on top. Change the matter every day until the raw material stops sapping. Meat must be turned over with clean hands only! A slightly dried product can be sprinkled with salt and wrapped again in a cloth. Thus, it is easy to maintain portioned pieces that are ready for cooking already in 3-4 days.

Method number 2. Wrap the beef in a waffle towel. Place salt nearby to draw out moisture. Carry out similar manipulations, as prescribed in method No. 1.

Method number 3. Wrap the meat in a cloth, place in a wooden box with a lid. The box must have holes around the perimeter for air circulation! Change the material every day. When the raw material stops emitting juice, pour coarse salt, 1 cm high, into the bottom of the box. Change the fabric after 3 days. Weight loss with this method is about 11%.

Method number 4. Purchase a special package for dry maturation. It consists of a membrane that protects the product from external influences, but allows vapor and moisture to pass through. The meat is aged for about 3-4 weeks. A crust must certainly appear, which must be cut off. The main thing is to remove all the bones from the cut.

Method number 5. Hang the product by the hook or place it on a special stand. Install a fan that can be powered by a refrigerator light bulb. Be sure to install a fuse and a power button so that the device works with the door closed. It is undesirable to install a device on a battery, as it can deteriorate from low temperature and humidity. And battery components (lithium and sodium) can make products toxic.

Features of dry ripening in the home kitchen

Make sure that the meat is of high quality, and the cutting technology and transportation conditions have not been violated by the manufacturer. Of course, you need to order products from trusted suppliers.

Meat quickly absorbs odors, so you need to allocate not a separate shelf, but an entire refrigerator. To do this, you can buy small chambers, using them only for maturation.


The following conditions must be met:

1. The meat must be blown from all sides, so a molded glass or plastic shelf will not work, it is better to use a grill.
2. Before using the refrigerator, it is advisable to disinfect everything in order to remove harmful microorganisms.
3. The temperature in the refrigerator should be +2 (at +5 the beef starts to deteriorate).
4. Ripening time depends on the size of the piece. So a cut for 10 kg will be ready in a month, for 8 kg - in 3 weeks.

Other methods of aging beef cuts

In addition to dry and wet aging, there are several other ways, but it is difficult to create the necessary conditions at home. Those who like to experiment should not forget that spoiled meat products can provoke serious diseases!

Unpopular methods of ripening meat products:

1. In mineral water or aqua aging. It is important to control the amount of sulfates and sodium: due to their excess, bitterness may appear in the meat. In order for raw materials to acquire an original flavor range, a high content of magnesium with calcium and bicarbonates is necessary.
2. The Hautgoût technology (French for "high taste") is more applied to game. The meat is kept in fur or feathers. The product comes out exquisite in taste, with tart-sweet notes. Of course, now the sanitary epidemiological authorities do not allow the use of this method.
3. Dry moldy. Useful fungal cultures are planted on the cut. As a result, the product is covered with mold, which is cut off before cooking. The meat is valued for its distinctive nutty flavor. However, in Germany this method is prohibited by law.
4. Ripening cuts in fat is an ancient method of improving meat. The piece is covered with a thick layer of lard, of course, only beef. As a result, the fibers soften, the natural elasticity of the pulp is lost. Air does not pass through the fat layer, so all chemical processes take place in the product, as with normal aging. In addition, the access of bad bacteria is closed.

Of course, one should not take the word of each manufacturer of meat products. It is advisable to check the quality of the goods and stipulate the terms of the return in advance. Why is it worth playing it safe before buying? You can fry a steak with a full range of harmful chemicals...

I suggest watching a story about the differences between ordinary meat and fermented meat:

How do unscrupulous producers speed up the ripening process?

Buying aged beef pay attention to aroma, color, cut tension and top of the pulp.

Attention!

Cuts are only ready for sale in 21 days, but some producers cannot wait that long.

To speed up chemical processes, they go to tricks.

How to reduce maturation time?

• raise the temperature (+10 or +20), and so that the cut does not disappear, it is chipped with antibiotics or ultraviolet radiation is used;
• introduce mineral supplements (usually calcium, magnesium);
• apply enzyme preparations of plant or microbial origin (papain, fungal amylase);
• the most used method is electrical stimulation, when electrodes are applied to different parts of the carcass and current is applied;
• soak or pump into the pulp with a syringe special brines in which lactic acid bacteria are located;
• under pressure to introduce air, water, gases into the muscles.

Some methods look completely harmless, only they significantly impair the quality of the meat. After cooking, it can significantly decrease in size, it will turn out not so fragrant, with an unpleasant aftertaste and a terrible taste range.

If you decide not to mess with bad producers, but to create a great piece of meat for a flavorful steak, you should be aware of the signs of spoilage in a meat product.

How do you know if meat has gone bad?

If you violate the temperature regime and the recommended humidity in the refrigerator, then bad microorganisms will begin to develop in the cut. Such meat can be very dangerous, not to mention the culinary value! Of course, in order for the product to ripen well and not deteriorate, certain processes must take place in it. However, it does not always contain the necessary substances for autolysis.

What causes can disrupt the natural chemical reactions during fermentation:

• the animal was constantly sick, was exhausted, was constantly in a state of stress;
• the bull did not receive a balanced diet;
• poor bleeding of the carcass;
• cutting of cuts took place in unsanitary conditions;
• contamination of the product with the contents of the stomach of bulls;
• during transportation, bad microorganisms got on the meat;
• muscle integrity was compromised.

Naturally, if the product is kept at a temperature of more than +5 degrees, then spoilage of beef is inevitable. High humidity and the presence of oxygen will accelerate the appearance of putrefactive bacteria.

Experienced chefs believe that meat should initially be free of bad microorganisms, and refrigeration equipment for product maturation should be thoroughly disinfected.

Do not forget that various bacteria can spread throughout the raw material, so you should carefully monitor each piece. It is necessary to pay attention to the color, smell and presence of liquid, that is, meat juice.

The main signs of spoilage of cuts

The appearance of mucus. In case of improper storage, various bacteria and yeast are formed on the cuts. As a result, a piece of meat is covered with a sticky substance. Unfortunately, even with the right temperature and optimal humidity, unpleasant mucus can appear as early as the second day of storage. The reason is banal: a lot of microbial cells initially got on the surface of the piece.

A tan. The color of the meat becomes grayish, brownish, with a green coating. Muscles become loose, and the smell is suffocatingly sour with a hint of sulfur. It appears already in the first hours after slaughter, when the storage technology of the product is violated. If fresh meat is wrapped in a film or put into a bowl and be sure to close the lid, then it can become steamed. Necessary processes are slowed down because there is no ventilation. The breakdown of glycogen begins, and the resulting acidic substances give the raw material a very unpleasant odor. The product can be used for cooking only in one case: if, after washing and airing the finely chopped pieces, the odor is completely gone. Green plaque must be cleaned, but if it reappears, it is advisable to dispose of the product.

rotting. Various groups of bacteria can appear on the surface. Some remain in the upper layers, others go inward. In the latter case, the meat will seem good, but the bones and tendons will be completely spoiled. In sick animals, putrefactive microorganisms enter the blood long before slaughter, which delivers them to all muscles and organs. As a result, spoilage of cuts occurs throughout the thickness at the same time.

Do not think that a product with a slight smell can be washed and recycled. When the amino acid is destroyed, amines are released, which are considered quite toxic. Stale raw materials will be less dangerous than slightly spoiled ones. If the meat begins to decompose in the skin, then sulfur-containing substances are formed. In this case, the piece will smell like sulfur. Simultaneously with decay, fermentation of carbohydrates, oxidation of fats, etc. occur.

acid fermentation. The meat turns gray, often has a greenish tint. Carbohydrates begin to break down, organic acids appear, resulting in an unpleasant sour smell and taste. Fermentation often occurs in poorly bled meat and is considered the main type of spoilage in imported cuts.

Pigmentation. Pigment bacteria begin to multiply rapidly on the surface, so characteristic spots appear on the meat.

glow. Luminous bacteria can get on beef, which give the corresponding effect. They usually live in sea water, and get on meat during non-observance of the commodity neighborhood, for example, with fish. They do not cause chemical changes in the muscles, do not affect the taste or smell of cuts.

mold appears on frozen cuts. Fungi cause the breakdown of fats and proteins, reduce the amount of nitrogenous substances, so the product has a specific musty smell.

Knowing the causes and signs of spoilage of the meat product, you will be sure that a good piece of meat will end up on your table. I also recommend reading the article. If you decide to save money and start maturing beef cuts in your restaurant, it is better to use special equipment.

Cut maturation equipment

Establishments that specialize in elite meat offer a choice of cuts of their own "production".

The chilled product is delivered to the kitchen, and the chefs place it in the chambers of special refrigerators.

Of course, there is a technique of small volumes, where only 4-6 cuts can fit.

It is easy to install right in your home kitchen.

The main thing is that it meets all the requirements.

What should be the refrigerator for ripening meat?

• double door with UV protection;
• all elements (lattices, hooks) are made of high-quality stainless steel;
• temperature and humidity control systems;
• good ventilation system with speed control;
• adjustable legs;
• bactericidal lamp.

When buying, you should pay attention to the volume of the chamber, the maximum allowable weight per shelf. There are many models that need to be connected to the water supply. It is worth paying attention to the place where you plan to install the equipment. It is undesirable to place it near the window and heating appliances. The floor must be level. Distance from the wall at least 5 cm.

Now you know that you need to select well-fermented and matured beef with great care. Then the steak will become an exquisite dish that will give you a lot of positive emotions and taste pleasure!

I've been meaning to write this post for a long time. But this is not written quickly. My hands are still shaking because the topic is a bit "slippery". I will make a reservation right away. I will tell you the theory, my experience, and the experience of people who helped me a lot in writing this post. Further, each of you is responsible for your own health, and applies your common sense and intuition.
Because we will talk about the maturation of meat in general and the maturation of meat at home.

The formal part of the post

Let's start with theory, so let's turn to Mr. McGee and Peter (pachom), who kindly helped me write this post.
Like cheese and wine, meat gets better when it is left for a certain period of time, during which there will be a gradual change in its chemical composition. Thanks to this, it becomes more tasty, fragrant and tender. In the 19th century, beef and lamb carcasses were stored for days or even weeks at room temperature until the outside rotted. The French called this "mortification", and the great chef of the time, Antonin Karem, said that this process should take as long as possible.

Today we prefer to eat less mortified flesh. In the USA (note of the author of the post: I think in Russia even more so), for the most part, meat ages insignificantly, only for a few days, during which the meat is delivered from the packing plant to the store. This period is sufficient for chicken, which lasts 1-2 days of aging, and for pork and lamb, which lasts a week (unsaturated fats in pork and poultry become rancid quickly enough). But in beef, the taste and texture can improve within a month. Especially when the whole unwrapped parts of the carcass are kept at a temperature of 1-3 ºС and air humidity of 70-80%.

Enzymes in action

Meat aging is due to muscle enzymes. After slaughter, the animal's body ceases to function. At this time, the enzymes present in the meat activate chemical processes that destroy muscle fibers, making the meat more tender and finally forming its flavor "bouquet". During the aging process (aging) of meat, which can last from 2 to 28 days, proteolytic enzymes (calpain, cathepsin, etc.) contained in meat slowly break down large molecules and turn proteins into amino acids, glycogen into glucose, and fats into aromatic fatty acids. All this contributes to the softening of the meat and the enrichment of its flavors, while the temperature and humidity inhibit the development of bacteria and mold, without interfering with the work of enzymes. Only very large pieces can be aged: whole carcasses, half carcasses, or, in extreme cases, quarters.

Aging has been the subject of lively debate in recent years. First, butchers and steak lovers discuss the type: dry or wet. Supporters of the dry method emphasize that wet aging only softens the meat, but does not affect its aroma, while dry aging makes the smell more expressive, accentuating shades similar to the smell of game.
Dry - the most ancient, takes place in a special refrigeration room, where special conditions are created in terms of temperature and ventilation humidity.

During aging, the meat is placed on shelves or hung.

The temperature is maintained at 2-4 degrees, humidity is maintained at 50-75%. Also a key success factor for aging meat is good air circulation, for which the room where the meat is aged must be equipped with good ventilation. During the aging process, excess moisture evaporates from the cut of meat, the fibers soften and fermentation begins. Thus, the meat becomes softer, and the taste is much more intense.
As the meat loses moisture during the aging process, it also shrinks in size. Let's calculate the time it takes to age the meat, all the overhead costs, which gives us a higher price for the final product.
The dry aging process is economically justified only with meat of the highest quality and marbling - this is if we are talking from the point of view of the restaurant business.

Wet aging is a more recent invention that involves wrapping meat in film, or vacuum packaging. During wet aging, the meat loses much less weight, since 70% of the meat is water, which, of course, evaporates during dry aging (weight loss during aging under film is about 5% versus almost 20% during normal hanging). In addition, during dry aging, a rather hard crust forms on the surface of the meat, which must be cut off before cutting, which further increases the loss. An additional inconvenience is that wet aging can take place in stages, first at the slaughterhouse, then at the butcher's, while dry aging must take place all the time in one place. Therefore, about 90% of the meat in the world is now kept wet.

Most of the meat that is served in steakhouses in Russia (eg Goodman) is wet aged. The meat is purchased in Australia, transported in a special vacuum package, practically in its own juice. This method, of course, is cheaper and more economical, since the exposure takes place during the transportation itself.

A similar, but at times accelerated process occurs when cooking meat. If the meat is quickly seared in a pan or blanched in boiling water to kill the germs on the surface, and then cooked slowly at low temperatures, such as in an oven, the enzymes in the meat will be very active for the first few hours until they break down. A piece of beef carcass weighing 23 kg, which is gradually brought to a temperature of 50-55 º C over 10 hours, turns out to be more tender than the same meat, cut into small portions and cooked in a "quick" way.

Main question - can we age steak meat at home? The answer is yes, if we stick to a few rules.

These rules were formulated by Peter. I will now voice them, with my additions.

1. Only the highest quality marbled meat should be aged. It is in such cuts of meat (I note that we are not talking about chopped steaks) that the fat on the outside prevents meat from spoiling during the aging process.

2. Buy a cut of striploin or ribeye - sold, for example, at the Metro Cash and Carry store. Already cut steaks usually do not undergo the aging process. Remove a piece of meat from the package, rinse, pat dry with paper towels.

3. Wrap the meat in the cleanest large cotton towel or cheesecloth and place on the lowest temperature shelf in the refrigerator. Preferably 0-3 º C. And it would be nice not just on the shelf, but on the grate. It is better not to put other products on this shelf during the entire aging process.

4. Change your towel every day, replacing wet towels with dry ones. Used towels can be washed and reused. At first, the meat must be carefully observed, perhaps even changing towels several times a day.

5. After reaching the desired aging time, cut off your steaks from the cut of meat, and continue to store the remaining piece in the refrigerator

6. After 21 days, uneaten meat is still desirable to eat or freeze.

The informal part of the post

So my experience:

Let's start with steaks. Yes, I certainly read that the steaks do not stand. But I'm a stubborn girl, so I decided to try anyway. I bought 2 ribeye steaks in the Metro, and kept them for a week.

Result: 1 steak was very dry, the other was dry on top. There was no mold. In general, it was possible to eat, but the juiciness of the dried steak was clearly not enough. The taste has improved markedly.
But, nevertheless, it is not worth aging steaks for more than 2 days.

All this is great, you say. Rib-eyes, striploins and other Australian bourgeois habits are yours. It is expensive, expensive for us to buy a piece of Australian cow for 3000-5000 rubles. Isn't it possible to make our native beef old?
You can age. I personally tried.

I bought a piece of a thick edge weighing 2 kg on the market. The total cost is 500 rubles.
I came home and the epic with gauze began. Even when I left for a week, specially trained relatives went to change the gauze. They even say that my usually calm and tenderly loving father-in-law threw a scandal on his wife. In short, he said that I was crazy, determined to poison the whole family. Oh well, I was away.

Yes, the meat did look suspicious. I understand him.

What bothered me the most was that on the cut it continued to be wet. So slightly (faint of heart do not read further) slimy. It smelled not to say appetizing, but not rotten either.

Here comes the 21st day. I courageously took the meat out of the refrigerator, armed myself with a sharp Japanese chef, and began to cut. Under the spoiled layer, I found absolutely ordinary, bright red, normal-smelling meat. Fresh, that is to say, meat. As if just from the store (from the market).

Having hung a piece, I found out that from two kilograms I had 700 grams left. Also consider the costal bones. They had to be cut off, because I don’t have that ax and strength, and besides, picking out spoiled pieces of meat from them would be too dreary.
It tasted like regular Russian beef. This is not Australia, not England, not Spain and the list goes on. But the meat was very tender. It's true. For the purity of the experience, I should have tasted this meat before ripening. But…….good thought comes after.

First, I cut off two small pieces and fried them. Sorry, the degree of roasting was absolute. I don’t know why, I didn’t have the courage to eat this meat with blood, or even medium roast. Here is the Australian meat that has already set you on edge, eat it, but our native could not.

The remaining piece I marinated in olive oil, soy sauce with chili flakes, ibmir and coriander. Again, with a good ribeye, I would not do this, so as not to clog its amazing taste, which no longer requires any words or actions. And there was nothing to score here, rather, there was something to embellish. When the unsuspecting husband came home, I “burned” the meat heated to room temperature in a grill pan from all sides, and in it I sent it to the oven preheated to 160 º C. Bake until completely cooked through. Why, read above.

What do you say? We had a good dinner with this very meat, a salad of juicy and sweet tomatoes with red onions, pickles with pimples, cilantro and goat feta. Washed down with dry red wine. But, this is not the same Australian meat from which you want to live up to 100 years and eat only it.

So don't expect miracles. I was also warned about this by a wonderful girl Rita, who has a stunningly interesting magazine. So Rita often ages meat.

Yesterday I sent her a personal email. I think our letters to each other will help you further clarify the picture. Rita does not consider herself a specialist, but she has much more experience than I do. And therefore I advise you to listen to it.

The most informal part of the post

Me: Rita, hi!
It's me again with my cows))
I finally got to the meat and its aging.
She did, and then reread our correspondence. I realized that I made several mistakes. I didn't put the meat on the grill. Changed gauze once a day.
I bought a thick edge weighing 2 kg.
And everything would be fine, but the meat on top all the time remained moist, a little slimy, it smelled normal. Today cut off, inside everything is beautiful. Fine. Even ate two pieces, still alive.
What do you think about this topic?
I have already ordered an Australian entrecote, I will try again, this time with a grill.
Can I send you a couple of pictures, tell me if I will live?
Now I will bake the remaining piece in the oven.

Rita: hello :)
Olya, you ask me like that, as if I were a major specialist. And I've never written anything like that about myself. So, sometimes I stand meat. We also have meat that is completely unsuitable for such manipulations with it. And personally, if I had the opportunity, I would buy seasoned and not bathe.
If the meat is from an animal of a special breed and fattening, then at 0-(+4) Celsius it will remain dry. And if standard fattening, then yes, it will be wet. And in such cases, I not only change the gauze once a day, but for the first 3-5 days I constantly watch the meat, wipe it dry and change the gauze 4.5 times a day. At first, the meat can be left without gauze for a while, so that it dries up and forms a crust. But don't overuse it. And when a crust has already formed on the meat, then you can change the gauze less often, after about a week you can even once a day.
Judging by your photos, you figured everything out well without help :)
And with Australian beef, I think it will be even easier.

Me: Rita, thanks for the reply! I would buy it too if it was on sale.
This was clearly my mistake (about gauze 5 times a day), and I forgot about the grate.
Mine was wet, you can't see it in the photo. And it scared me. Although the gauze itself, when I took it off, was almost dry. But we ate until everything is OK)) The taste was not impressive. But it was soft, yes.
And about breeds and fattening - these are your observations, or did you read where?
And another question: can a piece of 2 kg be dried, or should a piece be larger?
You may not be an expert, but I no longer found people in our livejournal doing this on a regular basis. So your help is invaluable to me!

Rita:
You just need to keep an eye on the meat, not to let it get wet at all, and it is desirable that the room is ventilated, and the temperature is appropriate, and in the refrigerator it is not only difficult, but troublesome to follow this. So I say that you need to rush with him like a fool with a mortar. This is the whole secret. Therefore, it is better to engage in aging in the fall, when it is possible to take the meat into the barn or onto the balcony. Well, as a result, ripe meat, which is not suitable for steaks a priori, by its nature. And the taste, of course, is not the same.
And my observations. But this is also intuitive. Meat of special fattening has a specific structure, it contains numerous fatty inclusions. And fat, it kind of "melts", and not "gets wet". As a result, a piece of meat with such a structure does not become wet, but floats with fat. It will quickly form a crust. And for such meat, compliance with the temperature regime and sufficient air circulation are more important than humidity parameters. This is if on the fingers :)
A piece, of course, would be nice if there was more. Then you will lose less when trimming.
You can just count. How much steaks do you want and how much do you want them to weigh, plus 15-20 percent for shrinkage and trimming.

Results

This concludes my saga, but temporarily. Because I will continue my experiments. You understand that you can age Russian meat, imported meat, different pieces of it, different number of days. Only experience can lead to perfection. And so that you do not get bored, I will tell you about my experiences. The next to go is meat from……..yes, yes, Australia!
But the story of this is not earlier than in a month.

Yes, I'm leaving now. Let me just summarize:

Domestic meat can and should be ripened. Initially, it does not have a special aroma and brightness of taste, it is often hard. After aging, the meat will definitely become soft. But hardly fragrant. That's the kind of beef we have. Alas and ah, it is not suitable for steaks. But just a very good fried or baked meat is guaranteed to you. But this is of course, if initially it is of digestible quality. Better yet, go to the market, to the butcher, who can be at least somewhat trusted.

P.S. By the way, I have experience in purchasing Russian aged meat. Kind of like a farmer's. Allegedly, even Angus grown in domestic open spaces. The sheepskin was not worth the candle. The meat was absolutely normal. Albeit soft.

P.S. Thank you very much for your help.