Cold fermentation dough. Dough preparation using intensive "cold" technology

Ecology of life: Health. Until the end of the 19th century, mankind did not know about the existence of yeast. Nevertheless, people somehow managed without them - brewers brewed beer, and bakers baked various rolls-bagels-bread.

The ancient method of making bread

Until the end of the 19th century, mankind did not know about the existence of yeast. Nevertheless, people somehow managed without them in everyday life. And at that time, brewers brewed beer, and bakers baked various rolls, bagels, bread. All this was possible thanks to the processes of natural fermentation that were actively used at that time, launched without the participation of other organisms.

Obtaining bread sourdough, consisting of natural yeast and lactic acid, is the first and obligatory step in making bread according to the traditional old method. The natural process of flour fermentation produces carbon dioxide, thanks to which the bread dough acquires the ability to rise without the addition of cultivated yeast.

Self-grown in sourdough, yeast produces enzymes that can catalyze the process of hydrolysis in flour gluten, in other words, help break down the complex protein bonds of problematic gluten. Hydrolysis in this case is the breaking of long-chain bonds into shorter ones - peptides and amino acids.

Sourdough bread has other bonuses as well. Like other fermentation processes, the bacteria present in the sourdough (lactobacilli) "eat" the starch (carbohydrates) from the flour. The result is a product with a reduced content of starch (carbohydrates), which favorably affects blood sugar levels. Thus, the lactobacilli of the sourdough, with which the bread is made, not only give it a special taste and desired texture, but also turn it into a kind of “medicine”, which also promotes the healing of damaged intestinal walls. And the presence of lactic acid protects the product baked on bread sourdough from premature spoilage (development of mold).

Growth of bacteria in the amount necessary to raise a loaf of bread is a very long process and can take from 3 to 10 days. Subsequently, the finished sourdough is added to the flour along with other dough ingredients.

For a long time, this method of making bread was the only one capable of making bread dough rise. Unfortunately, with the development of large-scale industrial bakery production, this valuable method was replaced by more profitable high-speed methods of making bread and received the title of "obsolete". However, the “well-forgotten old” has recently become more and more popular, including among people who have a difficult relationship with gluten.

For reference:

Cereals, like legumes, contain phytic acid in the whole grain, but most of all in its shells. This acid combines with certain minerals present in the gut to form insoluble phytates. This prevents the absorption of minerals in our body such as zinc, iron, magnesium, copper and phosphorus (demineralization process). Fortunately, under the action of phytase (an enzyme that is activated in sourdough), phytic acid is destroyed. The higher the percentage of flour purification, the greater the content of phytic acid. The more the dough is fermented, the more time the sourdough phytase has to release minerals from its association with phytic acid. In addition, the process of dough fermentation is, as it were, a digestion process that begins outside the stomach. (Materials of Wikipedia).

The results of the studies conducted suggest that, in this form, the amino acids from gluten do not pose an equally great danger to people with intolerance or sensitivity to it. Bacteria in the process of making bread, as it were, take on the task of breaking down the gluten of wheat (or other cereals) into smaller fragments, partially performing the work usually assigned to the digestive tract.

In 2011, a clinical experiment was conducted to identify the effect of the fermentation process on the breakdown of gluten in wheat flour and its effect on the body of celiac patients. The experiment involved 16 people with a diagnosis of celiac disease. All participants were divided into 3 groups. The experiment continued for 60 days. The control was carried out by markers of autoimmune reaction (blood test in the interval of 30 days and 60 days and biopsy of the small intestine at the end of the experiment). Four participants from the first group were “withdrawn from the race” because during the experiment they had symptoms of a worsening disease.

First group It was suggested to use ordinary wheat bread.
Second group received bread from wheat flour, prepared by the method of partial fermentation.
Third group ate wheat bread baked according to the old method of long fermentation.

The results of the experiment were as follows:

It was found that the amount of gluten was significantly reduced during fermentation.
Four participants in the first group showed clinical manifestations of enteropathy during the experiment. All participants in the first group who completed the experiment showed a significant increase in autoimmune response markers. The results of the biopsy revealed significant damage to the villi of the small intestine.
In the second group of participants, there were no cases of clinical deterioration, but the results of a biopsy and markers of an auto-immune reaction indicated the presence of negative manifestations (inflammatory process).
Participants in the third group showed no negative changes after 60 days, neither in the results of biopsy, nor in terms of markers of autoimmune response to celiac disease.

Thus it was The positive effect of bread sourdough on the reduction of gluten toxicity was shown.

It is still too early to judge, based on the experimental data, how dangerous (or safe) it is for people with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity to include wheat bread made according to the old sourdough method in the diet. I propose to leave this problem to experimental scientists and not to experiment on yourself. But for many of us, the facts described above may interest or even inspire us to try out a new, well-forgotten old way of making sourdough bread from gluten-free cereals.

Let me remind you that We call them gluten-free conditionally, because All grains contain gluten protein. Some grains may contain more of it (“gluten” - wheat, rye, barley), while others (“gluten-free” millet, rice, etc., as well as non-cereal buckwheat and quinoa) - less (not such a dangerous amount) . The concept of gluten includes more than 400 types of amino acids, different in structure and degree of aggressive effect on the gastrointestinal tract and the human immune system.

Compared with the conventional method, the ancient method of making bread, based on the process of hydrolysis - the long-term fermentation of cereals, is much more useful. Not only does this bread taste good, but it helps to ease the digestive process and boost the body's immune system, thanks in part to natural pre- and probiotics.published

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to specialists and readers of our project

Remember how in childhood, in the morning, grandmothers started a huge pan with dough, then it rose for a couple of hours in a warm place near the stove, then they baked pies from it with baking sheets? Those were wonderful times! And the pies smelled so delicious, and we ate them with pleasure, because we only ate, and did not start the dough, did not roll out, did not mold and did not bake at the hot oven. Much has changed in today's environment. The yeast has become dry and instant, instead of stoves, ovens with convection and so on have appeared, and the dough is aged in ... a refrigerator. This is such a reality, but from this pies and rolls did not become worse! Now we can adapt the dough to our frantic rhythm, so as not to deny nostalgic pleasures.

So, long dough. This is a minimum of yeast, a minimum of temperature and a maximum of time, most of which the dough rises in the refrigerator. But the result is an amazing dough! It works great, fits great, bakes great, great texture! From it you can form buns, buns, rolls, brioches and even put it on pies, it is almost universal. And, most importantly, it does not require much participation from the hostess!
Category: dough .

Ingredients (for products on 1 baking sheet with a side of 60 cm):

450 g extra or premium wheat flour
¼ tsp tablespoons dry instant (instant) yeast
20 g sugar
230 ml water
½ tsp salt
30 g unscented vegetable oil + a little oil for greasing the dough container

for cooking you will need:

bread maker with dough kneading mode (optional)
2 liter dough container with lid.

Cooking

Everyone knows how to knead dough. This process includes several steps known to anyone who has ever baked bread, pizza or sweet pastries. With slight variations, the history of yeast dough always follows the same scenario.

How to make dough for bread and pizza?

Dough kneading. Flour, water, yeast and other additives are mixed and begin to knead - knead, beat and generally subject to all kinds of violence, as a result of which gluten or gluten develops in the dough, something like a protein web that holds the dough together.
First climb. The dough is covered and left alone, letting the yeast work. The fermentation process is underway - the yeast begins to multiply by eating the sugars contained in the dough and producing alcohol and carbon dioxide, which forms small bubbles inside the dough. In addition, enzymes work simultaneously with the yeast to make the gluten bonds stronger.

Second climb. The dough is crushed to knock out carbon dioxide from it, give it the shape of a future product, and let it rise again. During the molding process, the yeast is redistributed within the dough, gaining access to new deposits of food, and the dough rises again - this time more evenly. As with the first rise, the gluten bonds also improve during the second rise.
Bakery. Future bread or pizza is placed in the oven. In the first seconds, the bubbles inside the dough begin to increase sharply under the influence of heat, the gluten "web" stretches to the maximum, then the dough begins to harden, a crust appears.
cooling down. Any bread is very desirable to eat immediately, but in most cases it will be right to let it cool a little on the wire rack. During this time, the moisture is redistributed, and the dough is actually cooked due to the residual heat (since the pizza has a small thickness, this applies to a lesser extent).

I'm sure all this - with the possible exception of words like "enzymes" and "fermentation", you know without me. You also know that yeast thrives best at the right temperature, and letting the dough rise in a warm place allows it to double in size in 30-40 minutes, making bread and pies quicker.

But what if you do the opposite - put the dough in the refrigerator, causing the yeast to freeze, and stretching the process of raising the dough for several days?

Who would even come up with such nonsense, you ask. This is not nonsense, I will answer. This is a special culinary technique called "cold fermentation" and is used in the preparation of bread and other products such as. Let's understand why cold fermentation is needed.

Why put the dough in the refrigerator?

As usual, things are not so simple. While the main reason we add yeast to dough is because of its ability to produce carbon dioxide, there are also by-products of its activity - substances that are also ultimately responsible for the taste of the dough. The rapid rise of the dough causes the yeast to eat all the sugars available to them in just a few hours, after which production stops. If the temperature is lowered, the yeast will not reproduce as quickly, and they will have more time to produce flavoring components that ennoble the taste of bread.

Is this the only thing? Not at all. The fermentation of the dough, artificially slowed down by low temperature, promotes the formation of stronger gluten bonds (remember, not only yeast, but also enzymes work during the rise), and the dough turns out to be more airy. For this reason, a “leopard” crust color appears on a properly cooked pizza: such thin and large bubbles appear at the surface of the dough that the dough in these places is baked and begins to darken earlier. However, since the dough aged in the cold is less dense and more airy, it takes slightly less time to fully bake it than to bake the dough, which was proofed in the usual way.

In general, there are two reasons to put the dough in the refrigerator:

better taste
better texture

Does this mean that the dough can be proofed indefinitely, constantly improving its taste and texture? Unfortunately no. Like everything in this life, this rule only works up to a certain limit, which is usually called 72 hours.

What happens next? Yeast, performing its useful work, simultaneously produces substances that give your future bread a sour taste: in small quantities it is pleasant, in large quantities it is too annoying and spoils the taste of bread. Further - more: at some point, the yeast produces such an amount of acid and alcohol that they themselves are surprised by this and stop working. As a result, the structure of the dough begins to suffer, because once in the oven, the dough almost does not rise. 0

Today I have double fermented baguettes. And again from Frederic Lalos.
These baguettes have a very bright personality inherent in the recipe - in their preparation it is used as poolish - a liquid dough with a 12-hour fermentation, which, as a rule, is enough to get a great fragrant bread, and plus to it - an additional 12 hourly cold fermentation of the dough.

In preparation for baking, I tried to imagine what would happen when using pullish together with cold fermentation of dough? Well, it's like a foie gras dish, for example, with black caviar.

Well? Baguettes of the highest class, amazing aroma and taste. Are they very different from other baguettes? No. It's like wine, it can be bad, too simple, empty, then better, very good and, finally, beautiful. After the beautiful, the most interesting begins. These baguettes are where the most interesting has already begun ...

RECIPE (for three baguettes from 320 g of dough):

PULISH (12 hours at +25C):

176 - premium baking flour;
- 176 - water;
- 0.175 g - fresh pressed yeast.

DOUGH (20 minutes rest after kneading + 10 minutes at 20C + 12-16 hours at + 7C):

421 - premium baking flour;
- 351 - mature poolish;
- 2.1 g - fresh pressed yeast;
- 12.3 g - salt;
- 176 g - water (according to the moisture capacity of flour to a dough of medium consistency).

Base temperature for dough +50С (sum of air, flour and water temperatures)
Knead 5 minutes on speed 1 + 5 minutes on speed 2. Then add salt and knead for another 5 minutes at 2-speed (for professional mixers and ALPHA 2G).
The temperature of the dough after kneading should be +25C.

Place the dough in a fermentation container and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes.

After that, leave to ferment in the refrigerator, in a zone with a temperature of + 7C for 12-16 hours.

Divide the dough from the refrigerator into three pieces of 320 grams, shape into oblong blanks and give 30 minutes of preliminary proofing.

Form baguette blanks and place them on a floured canvas for proofing, providing lateral support. Proofing 90 minutes at +25C.

Transfer the spaced blanks to a baking sheet, cut and serve in the oven.

Bake for 22-25 minutes at 250C with steam.

TECHNIQUE IN ILLUSTRATIONS:

Who, like me, does not have scales accurate to hundredths of a gram, but only ordinary kitchen scales with a step of 1 gram, will have to fool around a little to weigh 0.175 grams of fresh yeast for pullish.

To do this, you need to take 1 (10) grams of yeast, dissolve them in 100 (1000) grams of water, and separate 17.5-18 (176) grams from this solution. Add another 158 (0) grams of water to them and put it all into the poolish batch, i.e. Pour everything into 176 grams of flour, stir and leave for 12 hours at + 25C.

In the photo, a freshly wound pullish, after 6 hours and ready, after 12 hours:

Before kneading the dough, use the set base temperature (50C) to determine what the water for kneading should be. For me it is - 50 - (25 + 24) \u003d 1C. That is, I need practically ice. I had water in the refrigerator, and I also added ice to it:

Kneading the dough in the assistant. 5 minutes at slow speed, then another 10 minutes at maximum speed. After that, add salt, and knead at maximum speed for another 10 minutes. If the dough is too thick, add a piece of ice during kneading (14-18 g).

The picture shows the dough immediately after kneading, after 30 minutes at room temperature, and after 12 hours in the refrigerator at + 7C:

Dough after cold proofing:

Divide the dough into three pieces of 320 grams:

I decided to bake two full-size baguettes, and two more small, half-size ones:

Molding of preforms:

30 minute pre proof:

Shaping of full-size and half-size baguettes:

Start 90 minute proofing:

At the end of proofing:

I don’t know if it’s worth repeating, for a home baker who is not burdened with super-tasks, giving out volume in a bakery, baguette dough is a material for creativity. Bake any bread out of it, mold it any way you like, give it all kinds of shapes, sizes, and anything, it's a pleasure.

For example, in this case, I dusted two baguettes with flour before the cuts, and cut the second two and sprinkled them with water from a spray bottle:

Invigorating coolness, fresh aromas

The technique of fermenting white wines has experienced a real revolution over the past 35 years. The possibility of artificial cooling of the must, which ensures slower fermentation, has created a new type of white wine: aromatic, fresh, with a clean tone.

Thanks to modern refrigeration technology and in the mostwarm regions of the world can produce white wine, even under the open sky on the islands of New Zealand

For many white wine producers, a cool fermentation cellar used to be as important as a good vineyard. It made it possible to provide white wine with restrained, controlled fermentation without the use of technical means. Controlled fermentation is very important because white wines have many more primary aromas than red ones. At a high fermentation temperature, the alcohol evaporates and a lot of flavors escape.

How is cooling

Artificial cooling of the wort became possible with the advent of tool steel tanks. In it, wine can be cooled in two ways. The easiest is to pour cold water over the tank. A more expensive, but also more effective way is to use a double-walled tank with glycol cooling coils installed in the space between them. Almost any fermentation temperature in the tank can be achieved in this way - even outdoors.

Fermentation temperature control

At a temperature of 15 ° C, the must usually ferments for one to two days. Soon the yeast begins to multiply so strongly that the fermentation temperature reaches 18-20 °C. In a short time, the temperature can even rise to 30 ° C if the cooling system is not connected. Cooling slows down the rise in temperature of the wort and ensures a smooth fermentation. For most white wines, the must is now fermented at 15-18°C. In professional language, it sounds like this: temperature control of fermentation.