Fermentation vats. Equipment and tools for home brewing

For the preparation of the wort - wooden (oak) mash tun in the form of a tub with legs, shown in Fig. 1m.

Rice. 1. Oak mash tun with legs

The tub can, of course, be without legs; but it must be provided with a second (inner) perforated bottom, 2 or 3 inches above the solid bottom. The perforated bottom may be wooden, consisting of three detachable parts, tightly adjacent to each other (Fig. 2nd) and supported by a cruciform stand lying on the solid bottom of the tub (Fig. 3rd), 2-3 inches high. If the wooden perforated bottom is replaced by a metal one with thin slots or holes, such as shown in Fig. 4th (also detachable), then such a bottom may be sufficient in itself for the proper straining of the finished wort.

Rice. 2nd. Composite perforated wooden bottom for mash or strainer tun

Rice. 3rd. Wooden cruciform support under a perforated bottom.

Rice. 4th. Composite metal perforated bottom of 8 detachable parts: A - all parts are put together; B is one of the parts.

Ordinary wooden perforated bottom fig. 2nd, for straining the wort, it should be covered with washed straw and, on top of it, with a flannel or hair cloth, because its relatively large openings, without such a cover, are not able to fully retain the grains. Instead of washed straw and flannel, the bottom can be covered with a round piece of clean matting. To prevent straw, flannel and matting from moving, pieces of cobblestone or a wooden cross, such as shown in fig. 3rd, but less high (see below -). But since the introduction of straw and flannel into the vat after mixing the mash is not very convenient, and covering the perforated bottom with them before mashing should make mixing difficult, then mashing and straining in such cases is best done separately, i.e., instead of one, have two vats: one mash- without perforated bottom, for mashing, and other filter- with a perforated bottom, for straining the finished wort and leaching the grains; both can be similar to that shown in Fig. 1, but the strainer is usually made somewhat lower and correspondingly wider than the mash tun.

For stirring the mash - wooden agitators one of the samples shown in Fig. 5th, 6th and 7th.

Rice. 5th, 6th and 7th. Wooden stirrers of various shapes.

In home brewing, the strained wort is usually not transferred directly to the hop-boiling kettle, and therefore, in a mash or strainer tun, it should have one or two descent vats, into which the wort is filtered before entering the boiler. The vats are also wooden and of the same shape as the mash or strainer (Fig. 1st), but usually with a narrower upper opening (to reduce the evaporation surface of the wort) and on legs of such a height that they can easily be substituted under the mash tap or filter vat. Descent, like other vats, of course, can be without legs.

For spraying water during leaching, ordinary garden watering can with perforated tip.

To boil the wort with or without hops (as well as water), any boiler suitable sizes; but where brewing is not an accidental phenomenon, but belongs to the number of permanent economic productions, it is better to arrange boilers according to the model shown in fig. 8th, since in such a boiler the operation of boiling the wort can be performed much more carefully. This boiler A (copper, tinned inside) is barrel-shaped, with a removable lid. Its bottom, for a large concentration of heating, is concave. He is smeared into the oven to the level o o': Approximately ¾ deep. In B is a firebox and in E an ashpit, with a grate above it; A And A'- the top edges of a copper bent outside; To- a tube (with a tap) for discharging boiled wort; in the figure, this tube, for clarity, is shown open, but in fact it must be smeared into the brickwork of the furnace throughout its entire length, from the boiler to its outlet. To stir the wort in the boiler, the same agitators, as for the mash tun: fig. 5th, 6th or 7th.

Rice. 8th. Boiler for boiling beer wort.

The wort boiled with hops, before lowering it into cooling vats, is filtered from hops through finely woven wooden baskets.

Cooling tanks or plates, for proper cooling of the wort before fermentation, flat wooden (oak) tubs with legs (or without legs, 4-5 inches deep, such as shown in Fig. 9-m) can be used. In order to accelerate and enhance the cooling of the wort in cooling vats, ice-filled flat metal (for example, tin) floats(Fig. 10th), which should float on the surface of the wort; if there are no floats and the ice is clean, then pieces of it are thrown directly into the wort.

Rice. 9th. Wooden refrigeration vat.

Rice. 10th. A flat ice float to speed up the cooling of the wort in the cold vat.

Fermentation tanks, for home brewing, tubs like the one shown in fig. 1st, with legs or without legs, but relatively narrower in diameter and larger in height - deeper. Metal floats with ice, but no longer flat, but in the form shown in fig. 11th, may also be necessary in fermentation tanks - to prevent too much heating of the wort during fermentation.

barrels And kegs the same as those used in factories: the difference is only in size.

Rice. 11th Float for ice cooling the wort in the fermentation tank.

All vessels must, of course, be kept completely clean; wooden, before each use, are thoroughly steamed and washed with boiling water, and if possible, they are also tarred or varnished inside. Since the tarnishing operation, with ordinary home remedies, is rather difficult, it can be replaced fumigation with sulfur: wood shavings or ribbons soaked in molten sulfur are ignited inside a barrel or barrel with a red-hot iron rod.

Thermometer And saccharometer are just as essential for the home brewer as they are for the factory brewer. Saccharometer, if necessary, can be replaced Baumé hydrometer, whose readings are easily converted into degrees of a saccharometer, using the table at the end of the book. But the saccharometer (namely the saccharometer ballinga) is much more convenient.

Households that brew beer regularly and in relatively large quantities, for example, even brewing at least 40 buckets of beer per brew, must have separate, specially adapted premises for this purpose, arranged on the basis of general rules. It goes without saying that the devices of such home breweries should be less primitive and somewhat approach the factory ones; this applies chiefly to the mash tun, the boiler, and the cooling vats. The mash tun, although wooden, is made according to the pattern shown in fig. 25th. The wooden perforated bottom, for straining the wort from the grains, must be replaced by a metal one, such as shown in fig. 4th, adapted to the mash or straining tun, depending on which of them is used to strain the wort. The boiler of the sample described above and shown in fig. 8th. Cooling tanks made of metal, for example, made of white iron, since the wort is cooled faster in them, and cleanliness is easier to maintain; better than an elongated oval or quadrangular shape.

Basis for calculation instrument dimensions necessary for brewing, serves as a mash tun. In the samples of beer brewing at home given below, we have adopted a mash of 8 pounds of malt. For a mash of this size, we will make a calculation of the size of the mash tun and other devices here. The capacity of the mash tun should be approximately 3½ times the volume of the malt being mashed. With an average weight of 1 hectoliter or 8.13 buckets of malt of 51.3 kilograms or 125.275 Russian pounds, the volume of 1 pood or 40 pounds of malt should be equal to 2.6 buckets - x: 8.13 = 40: 125.275, whence x == 2.596 or, round number, 2.6 buckets), and the volume is 8 pounds of malt = 2.6 × 8 = 20.8 buckets. Therefore, the capacity of the mash tun for a mash of 8 pounds of malt should be equal to 20.8 × 3.5 = 72.8 buckets; take a round number 75 buckets. At the same time, the diameter of the vat (below) is 3 times greater than its height or depth. The strainer is of the same shape, but somewhat lower and wider and, in volume, approximately larger, i.e. about 87½ buckets(add to 75 buckets of mash tun; get 75+= 87.5 buckets). The capacity of the kettle for boiling wort with hops is more than the capacity of the mash tun, i.e. about 82.5 pails (75+= 82.5 buckets). With a mash of 8 pounds of malt, the wort can be fed into the cooling vats up to 50 buckets, the volume of which is 37.535 cubic inches. Beer from 8 poods of malt is boiled in an average of about 40 buckets; of course, more wort should go into cold vats. The internal volume of 1 bucket is 750.7 cubic meters. inches; therefore, the volume of 50 buckets \u003d 750.7 × 50 \u003d 37.535 cu. inches. Since the cold vats are filled with wort on average to a depth of 3 inches, dividing 37.535 by 3 gives us exactly the size of the area that the cold vats must have to be sufficient for 50 buckets of wort, namely: = 1 2.767 square inches. Dividing these 12,767 square inches, for convenience, into four
chan, we will have for each chan = 3 192 square inches. To have an area of ​​3192 square inches, an elongated quadrangular vat, with length V 84 inches(3 arshins), must have a width = = 38 inches(1 arshin 5 ¾ vershoks). If the cooling tub is round, then its diameter should be about 64 inches or 2 arshins 43/5 inches. It is known from geometry that the area of ​​a circle is equal to πr2, where π is a constant value of 3.14, and r is the radius of the desired circle. Thus the radius of a circular area containing 3192 square inches can be determined from the equation: 3192 = πr2; substituting for π 3.14, we will have 3192 = 3.14 × r2 whence r (i.e. radius) = = 32 inches. Multiplying the radius 32 by 2, we get the diameter = 64 inches or 2 arshins 43/5 vershoks. A fermentation tank, with a mash of 8 poods of malt, should have a capacity of about 60 buckets, and the height of the tank should be related to the diameter of its lower bottom approximately as ¾ to 1.

Many beer lovers often do not know how this drink is made. The magazine The Beer Connoisseur has produced a magazine that briefly describes main stages of beer production..

Brewing malt. Photo: Financial Tribune

Malt

Brewing begins with barley, wheat, oats or rye sprouted in the malt shop. The grain is then dried in a dryer and sometimes roasted, a process usually carried out in a separate room from the brewery. In the brewery building, malt is passed through a crusher to open the shell of the grains. This helps extract more starch during the mashing process. Large breweries also use soaking before crushing.

The combination of different grains in the brewing process is often referred to as grain balance.

Mashing

The first step in the brewing process is mashing, in which crushed malt (grain) is placed in mash kettle. Mashing is the process of mixing grains with water and heating the resulting mixture to a temperature of 40 to 80 ºC. When mashed, the natural enzymes found in malt break down starches, turning them into sugars, which then become alcohol. This process takes an average of one to two hours. The temperature of the mash can be gradually increased, or the mash can be left at a certain temperature at the discretion of the brewer. At different temperatures, different enzymes are activated, which affects the extraction of proteins and fermentable sugars. Proteins play a less important role, but are important for the formation of foam in the finished beer. Steam is used for heating in most breweries.

Infusion and decoction method of mashing

Water is mixed with grains in one of two ways: infusion or decoction. When mashing infusion the way the grain is heated in one container (mash tun); when mashing decoction In this way, part of the mash is removed from the mash kettle and boiled in a separate container, and then returned back to the original mixture. Some brewers repeat this process two times (double mash) and even three times (triple mash).

The resulting liquid in the mashing process, consisting of sugars and water, is called must.

(Note: Brewing beer from malt extract uses concentrated malt syrup or powder consisting of crushed grain, which is mixed with hot water to make the wort. This method is most often used for home brewing beer, which allows you to skip the steps necessary to separate brewer's grains from the wort).

Pumping

Straining or filtering the wort is the process of separating the wort from the grains as efficiently as possible. It is typically done in a separate decanting vat, although the mash filtration process is currently available to both large and small breweries.

The bottom of the decanting tub has round or longitudinal holes, as well as holes for draining. The solids from the mash remain at the bottom and form a wort filter.

The pumping process consists of three stages: mash-out, recirculation and rinsing. Mash out heating the wort to 76 ºC, which stops the enzymatic reactions and retains the fermentable sugars in the wort, and also makes the wort less viscous, facilitating further work.

Then carried out recycling wort and a filter layer is formed, with the help of which particles of grain are naturally separated from the wort, which makes the wort more transparent.

As soon as the wort is cleared, the remaining spent grains, consisting of the husks and particles formed during the mashing process, must be washed. Washing grains is carried out with warm water in order to get as many sugars as possible from the grains for the wort.

After washing, the grains are usually used in feed for livestock and pigs or used in the production of bread.

Boiling

Having received the wort, it is sterilized by boiling in a cauldron. In this case, the activity of enzymes is suspended, and the liquid evaporates. During the boil, which typically lasts 60 to 120 minutes, hops are added.

Photo: +Russ

Hopping

The taste, aroma, and bitterness that hops impart to a beer depends on the stage at which it is added. Hops can be added at the very beginning of the boil to give more bitterness: the more time it is boiled, the more bitter the drink will be. In the middle of the boil, hops are added for a brighter taste, and at the end - for taste and aroma.

Hops can also be added after the boil by swirling (flavor/aroma), fermentation (dry hopping for aroma), or maturation (dry hopping for aroma).

Vortex mixing

At the end of the boil, vortex mixing is carried out, which makes the wort even more transparent by removing proteins and hop particles that settle at the bottom. These particles are called sediment. A brew kettle can be used for vortex mixing, but many breweries have a special container for this.

Hop separator is a vortex mixing tank that has a separate chamber with hops to filter the sediment. This allows you to give the wort a brighter hop aroma. The hop separator is often used when whole hop cones are added to the boil. A standard whirlpool is best used to separate the lees that form when pelleted hops are used.

Fermentation

The wort is pumped into the fermentation tank, and yeast is added (added) to it. This stage is called main fermentation- sugars are converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The result is an ale, or lager, from the yeast used. (In the production of hybrid beers, one of these two types of yeast is also used).

After adding yeast at the correct temperature, the beer is usually kept at 15 to 20 ºC (ale) or 10 ºC (lager). During the conversion of sugar into alcohol by yeast, heat is generated, and this process must be strictly controlled. A higher temperature when using yeast for ale leads to a more active formation of aromatic organic compounds - esters.

Maturation

During the aging process, ales and lagers mature and acquire their final flavor, and the amount of fermentation by-products is reduced. Dry hopping can also be carried out at this stage to achieve a more pronounced aroma. More complexity can be added to the taste through other methods, including barrel aging.

Cold storage of beer for 30 days, known as lagering, defines the main differences between lager compared to ale: greater transparency and a different taste.

For the production of lagers, the method is also used secondary fermentation, which is called the German word "Kreusening". After the fermented "young" beer is pumped into cold storage tanks, actively fermented beer with added yeast is added to it. This extra dose of yeast activates the production of carbon dioxide and helps to eliminate the undesirable effects of the main fermentation - diacetyl (or butter taste) and other compounds.

The aging process can last from one to six weeks, and sometimes longer. Depending on the style, the brewer may filter out the remaining yeast or other particles in the beer and then place it in the maturation tank. To make the beer more transparent and increase the shelf life, pasteurization can be carried out.

Fort Point Brewery. Photo: Matthew Ankeny

Bottling and carbonation

Once the fermentation process is complete, the beer must be kegged or bottled and carbonated, either naturally or by force. In forced carbonation, CO 2 is injected into a high-pressure tank to carbonate the drink. Forced carbonation is used more often, as it allows you to speed up the process and makes the beer even more transparent.

During the fermentation stage, kreusening can also be used for carbonation. In addition, aging in bottles or the addition of a small amount of sugar and yeast when bottling is also used for this.

Experiments

Experimentation is the soul of brewing, and every aspect of the process can be changed - ingredients, mashing and fermentation temperatures, as well as their duration.

Indicators

Key metrics, measured with liquid gravity meters, help brewers control the fermentation process.

• Density- the ratio of water to other substances contained in water, including sugar
• Initial density(OG) - gravity of the wort before adding yeast
• Final density(FG) - density after completion of the fermentation process
• ABV- initial gravity and final gravity - the main variables for calculating the volumetric alcohol content (ABV)

To become a homebrewer, all you need is the desire to brew beer. For the rest, the exorbitantly developed brewing industry will help, as well as this article. The collected material is a complete guide to brewing beer at home from malt and hops. More is not required.

Beer, conditionally, can be prepared in two ways: from malt extract and directly from grain. The first way is the easiest: you need to buy malt extract, mix it with water, boil it, add sugar and yeast, ferment the resulting wort and bottle it (we wrote a separate one). It doesn’t sound interesting, but it was malt concentrates that became a good tool for popularizing home brewing. Maybe that's where you should start. Now I will explain.

Malt concentrate is a concentrated beer wort. The very technology of beer production according to the traditional recipe is very time-consuming, mainly due to the stage at which the wort is prepared. At home, it takes 5-7 hours of nerves, dancing with a thermometer and extreme concentration. During these 5-7 hours, the malt is mashed with water, heated to a certain temperature with certain pauses, then filtered and only then brewed with hops and other ingredients.

Malt concentrate is prepared in a similar way, after which the hopped wort is concentrated - the liquid is simply evaporated until the very powder (or viscous mass) that is sold to us in beautiful jars with the “malt concentrate” label is formed. In other words, homebrewers have a unique opportunity to bypass the complex and time-consuming process of preparing beer wort.

But there comes a time when a brewer, having tried various concentrates and additives to them, begins to think about traditional brewing, which, oddly enough, is practiced by beer giants.

If you still think that large factories brew beer from "powder", then you are deeply mistaken. This . Malt concentrate is many times more expensive than ordinary beer malt, not to mention the organization of its production, so it is not profitable for beer giants to use them.

Well, let's brew our first beer from malt, hops, water and yeast!

In 1516, Germany passed the Reinheitsgebot "Beer Purity Law", according to which beer must be brewed exclusively from barley malt, hops and water. We do not suffer from purism, but it is from malt and hops that we will continue to dance, as well as from yeast, which we discovered much later. But we assume that any interesting ingredients can be added to the wort: unmalted grains, honey, herbs, fruits and juices from them, vegetables, even mushrooms and tree bark. Brewing is a creative process.

MALT

First of all, it is a convenient brew kettle, also known as a mash tun, enamelled or stainless steel, most often with a thermo-case. As a fermentation tank, a fermenter, which is basically called a "beer factory", plastic containers can be used, with a slot in the lid for a water seal, or plastic or stainless steel barrels equipped with faucets, thermometers, pressure gauges and other convenient pribludy.

Now collectively without what it is difficult to do:

• Scales or measuring cup for malt and hops.
• Container for soaking and filtering (bucket-basin for 5-10 l).
• Malt crusher (mill, meat grinder, coffee grinder).
• Wort kettle for 25-30 l.
• Spoon with a long handle - paddle (plastic).
• Accurate thermometer with scale up to 100˚С.
• Iodine - for malt sampling and disinfection (or special disinfectant).
• Fermentation tank with water seal.
• Hydrometer for measuring the density of the wort.
• Silicone tube for pouring beer.
• Glass or plastic bottles with tight lids.

Of all of the above, the most difficult thing to do without a thermometer. During the preparation of the wort, in particular its malting, it is very important to accurately observe the temperature pauses, otherwise the beer simply will not work. The bottles are convenient with a yoke cap, you can also use standard beer caps, but then you have to buy a crown capper and crown caps themselves (regular beer caps).

What else will be useful:

• Self-adhesive fermentation tank thermometer.
• Filter media, add. filter containers.
• Canvas or gauze bag for mashing the must.
• Chiller for rapid cooling of the wort (or ice bath).

We advise you to take a closer look at some of the products for brewing on the world-famous Chinese marketplace AliExpress. Recently, we have been running a section in which we publish selections of such products. For example, you will find links to penny measuring instruments necessary for comfortable brewing and much more (scales, thermometers, hydrometers, volumetric flasks, a mash bag, etc.)

Preparation

Cleanliness is the key to success! In this case, this is not an empty phrase. Beer wort is an ideal breeding ground for any microorganisms that in a matter of hours will develop colonies in it and beer will no longer work out of this. Always use sterile containers and utensils, and minimize wort exposure to air. During brewing, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water, and preferably wipe them with alcohol, as you would with any tool that will come into contact with the wort.

Disinfection is the key to successful brewing.

The containers can be washed with iodine solution or with special disinfectants that are stocked in beer shops. You can also use a weak solution of bleach: 1 tbsp. l. for 5 liters of water. But still more reliable than special equipment. After using them, be sure to rinse the disinfected containers with plenty of water, preferably with hot water (be careful with plastic). After iodine, it is not necessary to rinse. Do not use several solutions at once - their reaction with each other can lead to the formation of toxic substances.

As a sterilizer, you can use heads from under any moonshine.

Preparation of beer wort

So, you bought or germinated quality beer malt, found aromatic hops, prepared water and sterilized all equipment. Now, in fact, it's time to learn how to brew beer at home.

First you need to make a recipe, namely, decide how dense and bitter your beer will be. PC brewing programs such as BeerSmith will help us with this. For trial purposes, you can use it for 21 days, then you have to buy a license, but it costs that money ($28). BeerSmith allows you to automatically calculate all the parameters of the future beer based on the given ingredients. It also includes 100 styles of beer from the BJCP guide. By the way, it would not be superfluous to acquire the BJCP manual itself, where the classification of beer is clearly described.

Malt preparation

First you need to measure the malt. For a classic beer recipe from malt and hops, 4 kg of malt is taken for 25 liters of beer. You can vary the amount of malt and water, thereby affecting the density of the drink and its taste. Malt must be winnowed, washed from dust and dirt.

Purified beer malt must be crushed into fine grits. To do this, you can use a malt grinder, but if it was not at hand, a regular meat grinder or other kitchen equipment will do: a blender, a food processor, a coffee grinder. However, practice has shown that it is much more convenient and practical to have a malt mill on hand.

Before mashing the wort, some brewers do the so-called "pre-mash" - soaking the malt with water for 12 hours. This procedure is necessary to give the malt husk elasticity - during crushing it will not be damaged, which means that it will be more convenient to filter the wort. Also, "pre-mashing" activates enzymes. Grinding wet malt leads to corrosion of the metal parts of crushers, so not everyone resorts to this method. But soaking can also be done after grinding, right? Be that as it may, our main task is to prepare and grind our malt to the desired condition (the optimal grinding size is like that of barley groats).

Mashing malt infusion

Wort mashing is the most important process in beer brewing. At this stage, the crushed malt is mixed with water (mashed), as a result of which the malt enzymes go into solution and break down the starch into sugar, which the yeast will then process. Enzymes require a certain temperature to work. There are two fundamentally different methods of mashing: infusion and decoction. We will use infusion, which is a classic home mashing scheme, during which the wort is heated sequentially, while maintaining the temperature pauses necessary for the action of enzymes. The decoction method is used in factories as a cheaper one - part of the wort is boiled and added to the rest, raising its temperature to the desired one.

For a classic beer recipe, a 1/3 water ratio (1 part malt/3 parts water) is used. Therefore, to prepare 25 liters of beer, we need to take 4 kg of malt and 12 liters of water. Water must be boiled and cooled to 60 ° C. Pour the malt in a thin stream, thoroughly mixing the wort so that no lumps form. If you haven't got a convenient wort kettle with a filter system, you can make your first attempts to brew beer using the "in a bag" method - pour malt into a cloth bag and "mash" right in it.

At this stage, it is advisable to check the acidity of the wort using a pH test. For brewing, the optimal pH is 5.2..5.5. How to properly acidify. For this, any food acids are used.

After mixing hot water with malt, it's time to arm yourself with a thermometer and follow the temperature pauses. There are three of them, two of which are required:

1. Protein pause. The mash is kept for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 25-55°C. This pause is not required. It is used if slightly modernized malt or “unmalted” is used. During the pause, the wort kettle (pot) must be insulated, and the wort should be periodically stirred. The protein pause promotes better protein digestion, reduces the turbidity of the wort, and facilitates further filtration. The density of taste slightly weakens, the amount of foam decreases.
2. Maltose pause. The mash is kept from 20 minutes to 1.5 hours at a temperature of 62-68°C. During this time, enzymes convert starch into maltose, a monosugar. At a low temperature and a long pause, more fermentable sugars are obtained, which means that the beer becomes stronger, while the density of taste is significantly lost. Higher temperatures and shorter pauses produce more non-fermentable dextrins, which give the beer a thick flavor. The fortress, accordingly, falls.
3. Pause saccharification. The mash is kept for 15 minutes at a temperature of 70-75°C. At this stage, the final saccharification of the wort takes place. Starch completely breaks down into dextrins, the breakdown of enzymes begins. With an increase in this pause, which makes sense only by reducing the previous ones, the strength of the beer drops and its taste density increases.

After the third pause, an iodine test should be done to check the completeness of saccharification. To do this, take a couple of drops of mash and place them on a white plate. Wait a few minutes and add a drop of iodine, then mix the drops. If there is no color change, then the wort is completely saccharified and can be put on fermentation. If the iodine turns blue, then there is still starch in the wort - the wort must be boiled for another 15 minutes at a temperature of 70-75 ° C. After that, it can still be boiled for 5 minutes at a temperature of 75-77 ° C and proceed to filtration.

Congestion filtering

If you originally mashed the wort in a bag, then there is practically no need to filter the wort. However, the grain (the undissolved part of the wort) still contains a lot of sugar, so it is advisable to rinse it. The optimum water temperature for flushing is 75-77°C. But more on that later. First you need to filter the wort and measure its density. Modern wort kettles are equipped with a filter system with a false bottom and a tap. All you have to do is place a large collection container under the tap and start draining the wort. The first wort will be cloudy, so it is best to drain it into a separate container until a clear liquid begins to flow from the tap. It is necessary to change the container to the main one, and return the first cloudy wort to the filter tank.

Malt grains work here, which is collected in a dense layer on the mesh bottom (if we are talking about a purchased wort kettle) and begins to play the role of a good filter. You can assemble your own filter system from a large tank and a sieve, but I will leave these engineering wisdoms to your conscience. After filtering, be sure to measure the density of the wort using a hydrometer. Typically, the density varies between 14-22%. It's time to bring the gravity of the wort up to the values ​​in our recipe using a rinse. The amount of water depends on the desired density.

For beer with a density of 12%, you should take the following amount of water at a temperature of 75-77 ° C (not higher):

During the filtration process, try to control the density of the wort using a hydrometer so as not to overdo it with the amount of wash water - at the end of the wash, more “useless” substances pass into the wort, which only increase the cloudiness.

Wort boiling and beer hopping

The resulting wort must be poured back into the wort kettle and boiled for 1-2 hours with the addition of hop cones. Brewing beer is needed to enrich the wort with hop bitterness and aroma. During boiling, all unnecessary microorganisms are killed, and the malt enzymes are finally destroyed. It is recommended to boil the wort for at least 1 hour. Boiling should be active, 10-15 minutes before the end of cooking, it is better to reduce the fire and cover the wort with a lid.

Put the wort on the fire, add hops for bitterness - about 80% of the hops rate. The bitterness that will transfer into the beer from hops depends on the amount of alpha acids contained in the buds (or granules). For example, to obtain a drink with a slight hop bitterness for 25 liters of wort, it is enough to take 25-50 g of hop pellets with an alpha acid content of 6.4%, for bitter beer - 60-100 g. The granules are simply put into the wort, it is better to put the cones into a cloth bag. 10-15 minutes before the end of the boil, you need to add hops for taste, and 5 minutes - for aroma. Irish moss is also added with flavor and aroma hops for better clarification of the beer.

Wort cooling

The boiled wort must be quickly cooled to a fermentation temperature of 16-18°C. It is important to cool quickly, in 20-30 minutes, - this reduces the risk of contamination of the wort with foreign microorganisms that can seriously compete with yeast. At home, this can be done with a cold water bath (with plenty of ice if possible).

If you are going to brew regularly, I advise you to purchase a chiller - a coil through which running cold water is supplied.

A chiller is the best way to quickly cool your beer after brewing.

Adding yeast with preparation

During cooling, it is advisable to ferment the yeast so that you do not have to wait later:

1. Pour a small amount of wort with a temperature of no more than 30 ° C into a sterile container and pour / pour yeast into it.
2. Cover with a sterile lid and let stand for 30-40 minutes. When signs of fermentation appear, the yeast can be added to the chilled wort.

But before adding the yeast, the cold wort must be freed from suspensions, due to which the cold wort becomes cloudy. This process will have a positive effect on the final taste of the drink. To do this, stir the wort with a rotating motion using your mixing spoon. As a result of rotation, the suspensions will settle to the bottom in the center of the tank, and the wort can be poured into the fermentation brewery without any problems.

It is also important to saturate the wort with oxygen before introducing yeast cultures, which was all gone during the boil. To do this, the wort must be intensively mixed, and it is better to pour from a great height. Experienced brewers use aquarium compressors for aeration. Do not forget that everything should be as sterile as possible.

Main beer fermentation

Before setting the wort for fermentation, take a small amount of it to check the density. This information will come in handy later. The optimal density for light lager beer is 10-12%, for dense beer - 12-16%. Mix the wort well after pitching the yeast. Close the fermentation tank with a water seal lid and place it in the place where the beer will ferment. It should be a dry room with a stable temperature of 18-24°C.

Fermentation of beer lasts 5-8 days. The end of fermentation is characterized by the absence of carbon dioxide released through the water seal. We open the container, take a small amount of young beer to measure the density. For fermented beer, the density should drop to 2-2.2%. In a fermented beer, the gravity is constant because the sugars are no longer processed by the yeast. Knowing the initial and final density, you can calculate the final strength of the drink. If everything went well, the beer can be bottled and sent for maturation.

Overflow, fermentation, maturation

So we come to the most pleasant stage of brewing homemade beer. At this stage, the beer does not have a full taste. In order for this taste to develop, the beer must go through the process of maturation in tightly sealed bottles. Before pouring, you need to get rid of the yeast sediment - carefully drain the beer through a silicone hose, without moving the sediment. You can use an intermediate overflow: first, pour the beer into a container, which should be left at a low temperature (5-7 ° C) for a day, and then pour the completely clarified drink into bottles.

In order for the beer to ferment and be saturated with carbon dioxide, sugar or other substances that contain it are added to it, for example, honey or unhopped malt extract. For 1 liter of beer, it is enough to take 8-9 g of sugar or honey, malt extract - 11 g or 1.25 times more sugar. Of course, malt extract is preferable. Their sugar is better to cook syrup or use fructose-dextrose (6-7 g / 1 l). You can add sugar to each bottle, after which they need to be shaken well to completely dissolve, but it is better to mix the required amount of sugar / malt with beer in a separate container and pour the drink into bottles from there.

Beer is bottled in clean, sterile bottles. It is necessary to leave 3-4 cm from the neck for normal fermentation and carbon dioxide concentration. Glass bottles without tight corks should be sealed with new crown caps. Beer must be fermented in a dark room at room temperature. Ripening should take place in a dark, cool place for at least 1-2 weeks. In order not to get confused, it is better to label the bottles - indicate the type of beer on them, and the date when it was bottled. You can store it for 6-8 months, while the drink will remain “alive” all this time.

It's time to reap the fruits of your labors.

I will continue to cover the beer theme and hope for any possible help from you. Becoming a homebrewer is not difficult. For this, only one thing is required - the desire to cook. In conclusion, I would like to say that homebrewers are enthusiastic people who are not afraid to experiment. Do not limit yourself to anything other than consuming the results of your new hobby. For moderation is the best feast!

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The fermentation tank is designed for the main fermentation process. The quality and taste of beer depends on this stage.

In brewing, it is important that the fermentation tank be made of materials that do not have any effect on the process and the acidity of the wort. That is why the German manufacturer manufactures stainless steel tanks. This metal is characterized by high strength and reliability, resistance to corrosion. Products from it have a long service life. This means that you can brew beer in a stainless steel vat for many years.

During the fermentation process, sugar from the wort is converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. To exit the second, a water seal is provided in the tank, while air does not get inside. It is not allowed to get into the mash of various microorganisms and foreign objects. To do this, the vats are equipped with tight-fitting lids with clips.

The resulting young beer can be easily drained with a stainless steel tap with a diameter of 1.2 cm for further preparation.

After use, the container can be easily washed, it is possible to use mild detergents.

The fermentation tank makes a wonderful and practical gift for the novice brewer or seasoned professional. Will fit into any interior: from the kitchen to the country house. This is possible thanks to the stylish design.

If necessary, the fermentation tank can be moved to a cool room. This can be done easily, because. it is equipped with durable handles. The compact dimensions and light weight make the transportation process convenient. It can even be transported in the trunk of a car.

In the online store site you can purchase a fermentation tank. We work with the German company Bielmeier without intermediaries, so we offer low prices for all products. The equipment presented by us has all the necessary quality certificates. Our couriers will deliver the order in a short time to any place and time that is convenient for you.

I bring to your attention an interesting instruction on how you can easily brew delicious beer at home, which will definitely appeal to all your friends. Be sure to read on!

Equipment.

The first thing you need is a saucepan or a tank of 40 liters. You can enameled, you can use stainless steel. Stainless steel is better, but more expensive. Enameled container is also nothing, but three times cheaper. I bought this miracle for 2000 rubles. I just found it, by the way. For home use, pots can be dispensed with when cooking up to 50 liters. Then you need to buy more serious equipment, since it is difficult and dangerous to carry 50 liters of boiling water with your hands.

According to the degree of hardcore, home brewing can be divided into two types: concentrate and all-grain (grain).
In the first case, we have the wort ready, in the form of an evaporated concentrate. It's not chemistry. This is what neither is a natural product. Now the choice of concentrates is very large, you can pick up something for every taste. They cost around 800 rubles for a can of 20 liters of finished beer.

In the second, we buy malt and mock it ourselves. There are, however, absolutely perfectionists, they themselves make malt from barley and prepare water, achieving the necessary mineralization. Well, for example, if some beer is brewed in the English village of Fuckthishole, then the mineral composition of the local water is found out and the same is made. This is over 80 level house. brewing. For lovers, it is enough to buy good water in a store or draw from a nearby well / spring / tap.

Next, you need to turn a banal pan into a wort mash. You can use two containers, one for mashing, the second for cooking, but in an apartment, the less bulky rubbish, the less the wife swears. Which is important for a brewer. We go to the nearest construction market and buy the necessary parts:

1. Half inch brass clamp, plus two locknuts, plus two silicone gaskets, plus two PTFE gaskets.
2. Ball valve with female thread also ½ inch.
3. American for soldering with a copper tube.
4. Elbow.
5. Three copper tees with a diameter of 15mm.
6. Four corners 15 mm.
7. Two meters of unannealed copper tube.
We drill a hole in the pan as low as possible (here, who has what kind of tool and hand-to-hand skill), trying to minimally damage the enamel, and assemble this design:

We first put a silicone gasket to the wall of the pan, and a fluoroplastic gasket on it. Otherwise, the nuts will seize the silicone.

Well, here is the ready-made brewer. Now let's upgrade it to the mash. Here it is necessary to delve a little into the theory.
Mashing is the process of keeping the mash (water + malt) at a certain temperature. This holding is called a temperature pause. During this time, the enzymes in the malt break down the starch, which is a polysaccharide, into simpler sugars that the yeast can eat. The enzymes involved in this process are the so-called alpha and beta-amylases. According to the figurative expression of one of our colleagues, if we imagine starch as a tree, then beta-amylases bite small twigs (fermentable sugars), reach the fork of the branch and freeze, and alpha cuts randomly into arbitrary pieces (non-fermentable sugars). The thing is that these enzymes are most active at different temperatures. Beta-amylase at 60-65 degrees, alpha - at 70-75. Accordingly, if we let the beta work longer, we will get a wort of maximum fermentability, a high amount of alcohol, but an empty taste, because the yeast will turn all the sugars into alcohol and water. On the contrary, if alpha-amylases rule, then the beer will be dense, rich, but very light, because there will be practically nothing for yeast to eat there. By combining temperature pauses and achieve the desired balance between the body of beer and alcohol. Here, the theory is rough.
To turn our tank into a mash we need to assemble a filter element. This, unfortunately, requires some manual work.

To begin with, we take an American, a tee, a piece of copper tube and solder one to the other.

Soldering copper pipes is easy. You need solder, always lead-free, and flux. All this is freely sold in the markets or in plumbing stores. Solder look Sn97-Cu3. Without flux, soldering will not work, the solder will stupidly drain from the copper. If there is a gas burner for soldering, it’s good, if not, a gas stove will do. We clean the surfaces, apply the flux in a thin layer, put everything together and heat it up. When small droplets of tin appear on the parts smeared with flux, we bring the solder wire to the joint and the tin itself will be drawn into it under the action of capillary forces. Cool down and voila. Just remember, copper has exceptional thermal conductivity, work only with a tool, otherwise a severe burn is guaranteed. Copper cannot be thrown from hand to hand like an ember, even a short touch is a burn.

We fasten the resulting horseradish to the drive and determine the length of the tubes to the walls of the pan. The filter must be in place.

So, we are gradually assembling such a structure.

In the tubes with a hacksaw we make cuts a third of the diameter and about a millimeter wide. We do not solder the tubes in two places, we leave them collapsible so that the filter can be washed.
Together:

Here is such a shaitan device.
The last thing you need a hand-ass for is a cooler, or, as it is called, a chiller. Again we go to the market and buy 10-12 meters of annealed copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm and several meters (depending on how far the brewing will be from the connection point to cold water) of any hose, plus a couple of clamps. The annealed tube, in contrast, is easily bent by hand. So we bend, winding on something that is suitable in diameter. Then, carefully, with a large radius, so as not to break, we bring the end up. For rigidity, you can solder the coils to the vertical tubes, but I just wound it with copper wire (there should be an “ass” in the hand-ass).

Now let's move on to what is problematic to do yourself.

1. Hydrometer AC-3. This garbage is needed to measure the density of the wort. You can do without it, but it's better with it. Many use refractometers for this, but I myself have not used them, I will not say anything.
2. Fermentation tank. Now many online stores offer such 32-liter barrels with a water seal (4) and a faucet (5) at once. Also with a scale and a glued liquid crystal thermometer. You can buy it this way, or you can buy it separately. But, if in brewing shops this tank costs 300 - 350 rubles, then in offices selling plastic containers, it also costs 160 rubles. A matter of taste and laziness.
3. Mill for malt. Specifically, this one is called Comfort-500, made at the state farm named after the 47th anniversary of Mao, it looks scary, metal processing is at the level of the Stone Age, but it costs one and a half thousand and performs its function. The same, but made in Belgium costs already 3.500. Advanced two- or three-roll mills already cost from 5 to 9 thousand. No coffee grinders, meat grinders and blenders will work. I'll explain why a little later. A rolling pin will come up, but it will not be grinding, but the punishment of God and the seven plagues of the Egyptians.
4. ---
5. ---
6. Accurate digital thermometer with remote probe. Accurate at least within a degree. The thing is absolutely necessary. The one in the picture, I foolishly bought for 1500 rubles. Then it turned out that it was possible to buy a good Chinese thermometer for 300 rubles. On Avito.
7. Scales. It also needs to be more or less accurate. If within a gram, then perfect. In the picture Energy-403, weigh up to 5 kg, there is a tare function. Accuracy - grams. Well, that's how it's written.

The last thing we need is a meter and a half two SILICONE hose under the fitting on the pan. I did not draw it, a hose and a hose, such a transparent one. It is needed to drain the hot wort. PVC will not work, it stinks when heated and emits all sorts of muck from itself. We need a medical silicone hose suitable for sterilization. Where to get it - depends only on your imagination.
Actually everything. A microbrewery for the home, for the family, is ready. There are still all sorts of small things that make the process easier, but at first you can do without. The budget for all this mess ranges from 10 to 15 thousand. Depending on the.

Now, let's move on to the actual brewing of beer. I just want to clarify right away that in addition to equipment and ingredients, you will also need a lot of patience. The brewing process itself takes 6-8 hours, fermentation from 7 to 14 days, exposure from a couple of weeks to a year. That is, even in the simplest case, you will try your first one no earlier than a month after cooking. But believe me, it's worth it.
And another important point. The room in which all this demonism takes place must be clean. No mold in the corners, no fermented milk products around. No animals. Wort is a super-nutrient medium for fungi and bacteria. Therefore, the cleaner the room, the less chance of beer contamination. I will write about the disinfection of equipment later.
So, we will cook the Black Rhinoceros. This recipe, being clearly in a state of enlightenment, was invented by a friend from one club house. brewers with the nickname Rhinoceros. Dark beer. Therefore, black.
We will need, based on 28 liters of finished beer (we are limited to a 32-liter fermenter):
Munich malt, Munich, with color EBC 25 (there will be “Munich-25” in stores) - 5.77 kg.
Melanoidin malt, Melano, EBC 80 - 0.87 kg.
Caramel malt, Cara, EBC 50 (you can Cara-150, it will be darker and richer) - 0.35 kg.
Traditional hops, also known as Traditional - 20 grams.
Hops Saaz or Saaz - 40 grams.
Yeast Fermentis Safale S-04 - one sachet about 11 grams.
First things first, the malt must be ground. We get our hellish mill and forward. You can twist it with your hands, you can attach a screwdriver, I acted more cunningly and plowed my small one. Six kilos of malt will require half an hour of time with smoke breaks.

The trick of grinding malt is that it is necessary to obtain not flour, but grains crushed into several parts and at the same time undamaged shells. That's why no coffee grinders are suitable. These shells, settling on the bottom of the mash, form a filter layer through which the wort is actually filtered. And it flows out through our filter system of copper pipes. The cuts are small enough for the husks to slip through, but large enough for filtering to take a reasonable amount of time. Without this husk, the grains will quickly clog the slots and the wort will be filtered before the onset of democracy in North Korea. This is what ground malt looks like:

This recipe uses a single mash at 72 degrees. Above, I talked about how temperature affects congestion. So this beer should turn out to be “full-bodied” with a small amount of alcohol. We put a filter in the tank, take four times more water (24 liters) relative to the amount of malt and heat it up to 78 degrees, when adding malt, the temperature will drop to the 72 we need. By the way, a degree there, a degree here is not fatal. But at more than 75, enzyme activity drops sharply. Overheat ninada.

Heated - we fall asleep malt, mix. (photographed on Comfort-500, the quality is comparable). We measure the temperature.
Should be 72 degrees.

We close the lid and wrap the tank in a blanket / padded jacket as tightly as possible.

We are waiting for an hour and a half. 1 hour, 30 minutes. Patience... Patience...
While the malt is mashing, prepare the yeast. Yeast is dry and needs to be rehydrated.
We take a jar, a flask or something similar, sterilize it in boiling water and pour about 250 ml of boiled water into it. The water temperature is 20-24 degrees. We fall asleep there yeast from a bag and plug the neck with cotton wool. Nutrients are added to the composition of dry yeast for the first time, so you can get by with just water. They will start wandering there in half an hour.
An hour and a half has passed. Now we need to conduct the so-called "iodine test". We take a bit of wort with a spoon and drip iodine there. If the color has not changed, then there is no more starch in the mash, everything is split into sugars. And this is gud. If it turns blue, it's not good at all. You can still try to hold the wort under the covers, but most likely this will no longer help. Although I have yet to see a quality imported malt turn blue after mashing on an iodine test.
Now it's time for the mystical process aptly called mash-out. We put the tank on the stove and stirring constantly - because it burns, we bring the temperature of the mash to 78 degrees. Turn off the heat and soak again under the covers for 15 minutes. This is necessary to stop the activity of enzymes. The breakdown of starch stops.
During these 15 minutes, we prepare water for washing. This is such a special water, which differs from ordinary water only in that it is heated to 80 degrees. When we drain the primary wort, a lot of sugars will remain in the spent grains. It is not good to throw away a good thing, so we will try to wash them out of there.
It's time to filter the congestion. We put a silicone hose on the fitting, drag our plastic fermenter and open the tap.

What is the hose for? The thing is that hot wort actively oxidizes when it comes into contact with air. And this gives an extraneous aftertaste in beer. To minimize contact with air, a hose is needed.
At first, the wort will go very cloudy - the husk has not yet settled properly to the bottom, so we return the first drained liters back. There is a subtlety here - it is important for us that a filter layer is formed, but pouring the wort back into the tank, we stir up the sediment again. Whatever it was, we put a large plate on top, let it sink, but everything will now pour on it and not disturb the pellet.
We drain slowly. As soon as the pure wort has gone, we stop returning it to the mash and begin to collect it in the fermenter.

At the same time, we make sure that the grain is not exposed. As soon as it appears, add flushing water. So, gradually, pouring and topping up, we need to collect 30-32 liters of wort. At the end, we stop pouring the washing water and simply drain everything that is. The first part of the Marleson ballet is completed. We throw out the grain, unscrew the filter, rinse the tank and pour the clean filtered wort into it. And let it boil. It will take a long time to heat up 30 liters, you can speed it up by covering it with a lid. But keep in mind, if you miss the moment of boiling, the wort will run away, and washing the stove from burnt sugar is hell and Israel. You will also hear from your wife a lot of interesting things about yourself, about beer and about the universe as a whole.
As soon as it boils, we weigh 20 grams of traditional hops and throw it in there. These are hops for bitterness. We detect 50 minutes, let it boil. In total, we need to cook for 90 minutes or an hour and a half. During this time, about 3-4 liters will boil away, any unnecessary will evaporate with steam, some of the sugars will caramelize and the walls of the room will be covered with drops of condensate.

Thoroughly wash the fermenter, fill it with water and pour a vial of 5% pharmacy iodine into it. We also throw a water seal with a cork there and push the lid of the fermenter. This is disinfection. Iodine decomposes quickly, so it does not leave foreign odors and tastes. Instead of iodine, you can use special disinfectants, specialized stores sell them in disastrous quantities. Let's leave it like that.
After 50 minutes, we weigh 20 grams of Žatec and add it to the wort. These are hops for flavor.
15 minutes before the end of the boil, we connect the chiller to cold water and lower it into the wort. This is so that he has time to sterilize with boiling water.

Five minutes before the end of cooking, we add the remaining 20 grams of Žatec. These are aroma hops. In total, we will get about 20 IBUs (Bitterness Units). This is such a mild, pleasant bitterness.
Part of the wort is poured into a 100 ml beaker, which I forgot to write about in the equipment, and separately cooled strictly to 20 degrees to measure the density. We put the hydrometer there so that it floats and look at the value of the initial density (NP). In this recipe, we need to get 13.5% NP. If there is more, just add boiled water. If less, boil more. Although less is unlikely. In general, the output should be 28 liters.
(Here, unfortunately, a photo from another brew, the hydrometer shows 14.5%)

Upon completion of cooking, turn on the water in the chiller, turn off the heating. The meaning of the chiller is that the wort must be cooled as quickly as possible from 100 to 20-24 degrees suitable for yeast. This copper spiral will do it in 15 minutes. If you take the tank to the bathroom and put it in cold water, it will take 40-50 minutes. And the longer the wort stays in contact with the air, the more likely it is to infect it with "wild" yeast or bacteria, which fly around in abundance.
During these remaining five minutes, we run to the fermenter, pour out the iodine solution from there. Those who wish can rinse with boiled water, but, in principle, it will do. Drain the chilled wort into a clean, disinfected fermenter. From a height of at least a meter.

The meaning of this action is that the wort, falling, is saturated with oxygen. Yeast, they are living creatures, they also need to breathe. For low initial gravity beers like this, this method will work, but high gravity beers require additional aeration.
We take the yeast in a flask, by this time they will already give abundant foam and pour it into the wort.
We close the fermenter with a lid, insert a water seal (without pouring anything into it yet) and for another five minutes, shake it for more aeration. Again, shaking a 30 kg container is a good exercise. We take the fermenter to a dark and cool place and only then pour either vodka or boiled water into the water seal. If you immediately pour liquid, then at the first attempt to raise the fermenter, this liquid will instantly be sucked in.
All. Now wait 14 days. And, one more clarification: S-04 yeast requires a fermentation temperature of 18-25 degrees. If less, fermentation will be sluggish. If more - during the fermentation process, they will release a bunch of esters, which will affect the taste and aroma of beer unpredictably. Therefore, it is desirable to maintain this interval during fermentation.
Here, they are wandering. Below - the previous brew is standing, carbonized.

Two weeks passed….
By this time, we went to the store and bought a pack of liter PET bottles with stoppers and a pack of glucose / dextrose. This sugar is better absorbed by yeast than the usual one and does not give a sour taste. Now it's time to bottle the "green" or "young" beer.
To begin with, we pour a bit from the faucet into a beaker and measure the final beer gravity (CP). I got 5%. Which, considering the temperature at which we mashed (more unfermentable sugars) is quite normal. According to the table we find the alcohol content - 4.5%. Light and "full-bodied" beer, as expected.
In order for the beer to be saturated with carbon dioxide, it is necessary to add a bit of glucose to each bottle, since everything in the wort has already been eaten. Having eaten this sugar in a closed bottle, the yeast will just saturate the beer with gas. This is called "natural carbonation", as opposed to artificial saturation with carbon dioxide under pressure in kegs. There is, in fact, no difference. In this recipe, comrade Rhinoceros indicated 7 g / liter, so add 7 grams of dextrose or glucose to each bottle.
We open the fermenter, a couple of minutes go crazy from the smell. Then we take our silicone tube (previously disinfected) or a special siphon, fill it with boiled water and, holding one end with a finger, lower the other into beer. The principle of the siphon, yeah, the fermenter should be higher than the bottles.
By the way, here, if a tube is still used, the help of another person is needed, preferably homo sapiens. All these gestures are in order to take the beer from above without touching the sediment, which will be 2-3 centimeters at the bottom.
Well, we remove the finger, wait until the water pours out somewhere and the beer goes and lower the tube to the very bottom of the bottle. Again avoid excessive contact with air. We fill the bottle. When three or four centimeters remain to the neck, we squeeze the bottle, squeezing out the air and close the lid. And so many times.

When everything is spilled, we leave these flounder-like bottles also in a dark and not necessarily cool place. One week for carbonation. During this time, the yeast will eat glucose, the bottles will inflate and become stone. By the way, it will also be a natural preservation. There is nothing to eat there, there is no oxygen either, there is no contact with air. Beer in PET bottles can be stored quietly for six months (no longer is necessary, after all, gas exchange occurs through the pores of plastic), and in glass for several years. After carbonation, the beer needs to be aged for another month, but I started opening it after a week. I'm not iron. Although after a month of exposure, it definitely got better. True, by that time half of the cooked was left ....
Well actually everything. This method does not claim to be the only correct one. I wrote the way I did. There is an abyss of options here. But with this set of pots, you can cook whatever your heart desires. And my soul is capricious and restless.