White food of the native land. White food and pure thoughts
How many peoples in the world, so many cuisines. Each nationality has special dishes and ways of preparing them. This article will focus on Buryat cuisine.
History and traditions of Buryat cuisine
The Buryats are a nomadic people, in connection with which this people has developed its own traditions in nutrition. The way of life of nomads requires huge energy costs, so the cuisine of Buryatia is distinguished by the satiety of dishes and their calorie content. Being engaged in cattle breeding since time immemorial, this people has in its diet a huge variety of meat and dairy dishes.
Not only cooking meat, but even butchering the carcass is a special ritual for the Buryats. Of all types of meat in Buryatia, horse meat enjoys a special location. There are many recipes for preparing this valuable meat, among them: cutlets, dumplings, meat rolls, poses.
The best dishes of Buryat cuisine
Poza, the second name is buuza, is a national dish of Buryat cuisine. Minced meat mixed with internal fat is wrapped in pieces of dough, and although the dish is incredibly high in calories, not a single Buryat will exchange it for anything else.
And the famous Buryat plov is the pride and decoration of the festive table. The special way of cooking allows you to achieve incredible softness and tenderness of the meat, and makes the rice crumbly and slightly crispy. Its secret is that the products: meat, rice, garlic and onions, butter do not mix with each other, but are stacked in layers. Seasonings used in the preparation of pilaf give it piquancy and spiciness.
Milk is the second staple food of the Buryats, after meat. No meal is complete without milk or other dairy products. Milk, cream or sour cream are always present on the table, otherwise the meal is not considered complete. Buryat milk is used to make khuruud cheese, a national product of Buryatia. An indispensable condition for making cheese is whole milk and wooden utensils. No less popular are koumiss and kurungu. And the hostesses know how to make an amazingly tasty delicacy - cottage cheese snowballs.
The Buryat diet does not include snacking. They prefer a full meal. There is always a first course on the table. Shulep, or noodle soup, is the national dish. His recipe is strictly guarded and passed down from one generation to the next. Other Buryat broths are also widely known and very popular.
In Buryatia, in addition to national dishes, there are also national drinks. No doubt it's tea! There is a unique tea ceremony with many rituals, reminiscent of a sacred act. Preference is given to green tea. It is prepared using a special technology. First, the tea leaves are brought to a boil, relieving them of a bitter aftertaste, then, adding milk, boil again.
It may seem a little unusual that some representatives of the nationality, especially the elderly, add a little ... salt to tea. Shangi are always served with tea - yeast cakes mixed with mutton fat and fried in sour cream.
There are a lot of secrets in cooking Buryat dishes, and not everyone gets to know them. The younger generation adopts them from their experienced culinary masters, and in order to master them, you need to join the culture and traditions of this people.
Since ancient times, Buddhists believed that the beginning of the year shows what the next year will be like, so they carefully prepared for the holiday with the kindest and most intimate thoughts.
In Buddhist tradition, New Year's celebrations fall on various dates between late January and mid-March, on the first spring new moon in the lunar calendar. This date is calculated annually according to astrological tables. Here it is calculated by astrologers of the Traditional Sangha of Russia, in Tibet - by astrologers of the Institute of Tibetan Medicine and Astrology Men-Ji-Khang, in the countries of Southeast Asia, where Theravada Buddhism is preached, the Indian lunar calendar is used. Due to differences in astrological calculations in different countries, these dates may not coincide, as well as the name of the holiday. For example, in Tibet, the New Year celebration is called Losar.
One of the brightest traditions of Sagaalgan is yokhor - a big round dance. Photo: From the personal archive / Administration of the Aginsky Buryat District / A. Beketov
Forgive and make peace
Preparing for Sagaalgan began long before his arrival, even from the autumn slaughter of cattle, when they chose the best pieces of meat and left them especially for the holiday. According to tradition, before Sagaalgan it is necessary, first of all, to pay off monetary and moral debts, to make peace with those who quarreled and to forgive previous insults. All this allows you to get rid of unnecessary burdens before the New Year. And it's time for the housewives to start general cleaning, so much so that even in the far corner of the closet there is no dust left.In the old days, these days, all clothes were taken out and shaken up, special outfits were prepared from the most expensive silk and brocade.
During the coming month, the doors of each house were open to guests who were presented with gifts by the owners. The main dishes of the festive table are sagaan edeen (dairy, "white" food), buuzas and meat in a variety of ways.
These days, believers strive to get to the datsan in order to celebrate the New Year in prayers for well-being. Festive khurals begin on the 27th day of the last month of the outgoing year (according to the lunar calendar) and last 20 days.
The region's datsans will be crowded today. Photo: AiF / Oksana Tsepilova
Holiday of well-being
The last day of the old year is called butuu uder (completed, closed). On this day, you should stay at home with your family, conduct a ceremony of honoring domestic shrines, setting food for them, and preparing a festive dinner. On the holiday, it is supposed to eat until “fullness in the stomach”, so that in the new year life would be full, happy. Be sure to treat dairy products, because Sagaan hara is a spring festival and the beginning of the transition to dairy, "white" food.
On the last night of the old year, the Khural Tsedor Lhamo is held, which ends with the offering of the mandala to the guardian of the new year. It is on this night that it is desirable to stay awake. It is believed that the goddess Lhamo descends to earth on New Year's Eve and bypasses her clients, bestowing her blessing on them. She counts the people she has to protect in the coming year. She may not notice a sleeping person or take her for dead.
good luck wind horses
Sagaalgan is first of all a family holiday. On this day, first of all, it is customary to congratulate your close and distant relatives. On the first day of the coming year, guests and hosts greet each other in a special way - zolgoho. The older one puts his hands palm down on the hands of the younger one. Both pronounce good wishes (ureel). This is a deeply symbolic gesture, signifying the willingness of the younger to always support the older in life. And if a man and a woman are the same age, then the woman is considered the youngest. Especially dear guests and the eldest in the family are presented with a silk hadag - a symbol of best wishes. Toddlers are treated to sweets.
Also, believers visit lamas-astrologers to receive a personal horoscope for the year, zhelei zurkhay, from which they can learn about the features of the year for themselves and their children. On these days, the rite of launching "khii morin" (literally - horses of the wind of luck) is performed. This is a symbol showing the state of well-being of a person. It is believed that the “horse of the wind of fortune” serves as a powerful protection against misfortune and illness, attracting attention and calling for the help of deities. His image also symbolizes the wish of health, happiness and prosperity in the new year to all living beings.
Municipal budgetary educational institution
Verkhne - Kuytinskaya basic comprehensive school
Irkutsk region
Nukut region
Project
"Traditional Buryat food"
Supervisor: Andreeva Elena Anatolyevna, teacher of biology and geography
With. Kuyta, 2014
Introduction ……………………………………………………… 3
Buryat cuisine ……………………………………………... 6
Milk dishes ………………………………………. 6
Meat dishes …………………………………………. 9
Tea and flour products ……………………………….. 14
Questionnaire:
"The attitude of students to the Buryat cuisine" ...................... 16
Conclusion …………………………………………………… 18
Bibliography ………………………... 19
Application ………………………………………………….. 20
« The health of the body is forged in the forge of the stomach.
Miguel de Cervantes.
Introduction
Since ancient times, people have understood the great importance of nutrition for health. Thinkers of antiquity Hippocrates, Celsus, Galen and others devoted entire treatises to the healing properties of various types of food and its reasonable consumption. The outstanding scientist of the East Abu Ali Ibn Sina (Avicenna) considered food to be a source of health, strength, vigor. I. I. Mechnikov believed that people age prematurely and die due to improper nutrition, and that a person who eats rationally can live 120-150 years.
Nutrition provides the most important function of the human body, supplying it with the energy necessary to cover the costs of life processes. The renewal of cells and tissues also occurs due to the intake of "plastic" substances with food - proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and mineral salts. Finally, food is the source of the formation of enzymes, hormones and other metabolic regulators in the body.
Human health and nutrition are closely interrelated. Substances that enter the body with food affect our mental state, emotions and physical health. Our physical activity or passivity, cheerfulness or depression largely depends on the quality of nutrition.
Target research project: to study the traditions of the national Buryat cuisine and create a brochure "Recipes of the Buryat cuisine".
Tasks:
Show features of Buryat cuisine
Discover the healing properties of dishes
Conduct a survey of students and analyze the results of the survey
Reveal centenarians of Kuyta village
To interest students in observing the traditions of Buryat cuisine
Object of study: traditions of Buryat cuisine.
Subject of study: cooking recipes
Problem: With the increase in chronic diseases, one of the causes of which is poor quality and malnutrition, food has come to be seen as an effective means of maintaining physical and mental health.
Relevance: nutrition is the most important factor in maintaining health and longevity.
Place, dates and duration: project completed in municipal budgetary educational institution Verkhne-Kuitinsky basic comprehensive school with. Kuyta of the Nukutsky district of the Irkutsk region, the duration of the study was from May to October 2014.
Literature review:
The most complete collection of recipes of national cuisine in the book of Tsydynzhapov G.Ts., Baduev E.B. "Buryat cuisine" - Ulan - Ude. Detailed description of recipes, cooking technology, colorful illustrations.
In the materials of the interregional scientific and practical conference: "The Buryat population of the Irkutsk region (province) and the Ust-Orda Buryat Autonomous Okrug in the 20th century" in the article by Bogdanov G.N. the characteristic features of the economic life of the Buryat population are touched upon. The data of the census of farms and livestock are given. In 21599 farms: horses - 71404 heads, cattle - 197505 heads, sheep - 89843 heads. These data once again confirm that the economic way of life of the Buryats was based on cattle breeding.
"The culture of the Buryats of the Baikal region" - reveals the historical prerequisites for the development of cattle breeding, the use of various food products during shamanic rites. The sacred meaning of dairy products.
Research methods:
Working with primary sources
Questionnaire of students
Survey of villagers
Data analysis
According to literary sources, I got acquainted with the recipes of the Buryat cuisine, many of which are familiar to me and which I know how to cook, thanks to my grandmother. But nevertheless, I learned a lot about dairy dishes, about the healing properties of horse meat, beef, lamb, about the preparation of “named” dishes, that is, a specially prepared animal’s head was presented to a respected guest.
Then I conducted a survey among students in grades 5-9 of our school. The results obtained gave me a lot of interesting information. It is the survey that allows you to quickly and easily obtain information on a particular topic.
A survey of villagers allows you to get information not only about the age of centenarians, but also to learn the history of the country on the example of a person's life. Eyewitness accounts provide an opportunity to take a different look at the Great Patriotic War, at the life of people in the rear and in the post-war years. These historical events are getting closer and clearer.
Practical value of the project: The result of the project is summarized in the brochure "Recipes of Buryat Cuisine". The brochure is distributed among the students of our school, district, district and region. It will be of great help in spreading the idea of the need for a healthy diet based on the centuries-old traditions of the Buryat people.
Buryat cuisine
Since the Buryats are a nomadic people, this left an imprint on their culinary traditions.
The diet of the Buryats is high in calories, as their lifestyle required large energy expenditures.
The main dishes that could provide them with such an amount of energy are dairy and meat.
Meat dishes such as bukhler, poses, ubsun, khirmasa, hiime, black pudding, etc. are especially appreciated.
In the life support of the people, it was important not only to obtain high-quality products, but also the ability to use them effectively. Therefore, the culinary recipes created by peoples are not accidental, not arbitrary. They have developed as a result of long-term evolution and provide us with excellent examples of the correct and complete use of the food resources that nature provides. (Annex 1)
Milk dishes
Each nation has its own recipes for preparing dairy dishes. Among the Buryats, food made from milk occupies a special place. Dairy products among the Buryats are the main dishes on any holiday table. Just as Russians greet guests with bread and salt, so Buryats greet guests with milk or other dairy food. In the book “My Twelve Treasures” by the Buryat writer Afrikan Balburov, the following words are recorded: “The Buryats have an ancient custom: first of all, they put something dairy on the guest’s table, be it sour cream, cream, be it just milk. Every meal starts with it. We drink tea only with milk. No wonder they say: "Tea with milk - for a friend!". This custom, and indeed the admiration of the Buryats for dairy food, is predetermined by the way of life. Being the original pastoralists, the Buryats naturally used the products of cattle breeding.
The custom of sagaalha - "to whiten" is associated with dairy food. When a guest arrived, the first duty of the hosts was to serve milk in a cup. When setting out on a long journey, they sprinkled milk after them so that the path was wide and clean. Wool was sprinkled with milk when felting felt. White food was treated to the spirits of the area - oboo tahihada. After the birth of a child, performing the rite of burial of the placenta, oil was sprinkled into the ritual fire. During the construction of a house or a new yurt, during the erection of a hitching post - serge - the place of installation was sprinkled with milk.
Since ancient times, dairy products have been divided into 2 groups: perishable and long-term. The former include milk, cream, sour cream, foam, curdled milk, unleavened soft cheese and non-alcoholic milk drinks. They went into food as they were made. Long-term and annually harvested for the winter products include butter, several varieties of dried cottage cheese. The Buryats, as well as other pastoral peoples of Eurasia, know 2 methods of obtaining butter: melting and churning. Ghee is more valued, as it lasts longer and is better stored. It is obtained by melting foams and their subsequent ripening in the vessels of the stomachs of small cattle. Vessels made from the stomachs of goats and sheep, intended for long-term storage, were thoroughly washed and soaked in koumiss with salt. Subject to all the rules of processing and storage in the dark, the canned product could not only be stored in this package for a long time, but also improve its nutritional properties during this time.
Healing properties of milk: Milk contains lactose, which is necessary for the functioning of the heart, liver, and kidneys. The main protein of milk - casein contains the amino acid methionine, which is also useful for the kidneys and liver. Milk contains useful vitamins. Vitamin A for growth, as well as for maintaining vision. Vitamin B1 is essential for the absorption of sugar. Calcium is necessary for the formation of the skeleton, and for the elderly for the prevention of osteoporosis. Lactose helps to better absorb calcium.
Fermented milk products contain acetic and lactic acid, antibiotics, which suppress putrefactive processes in the intestines and improve digestion. Ascorbic acid normalizes metabolism. Fermented milk products are an indispensable tool for promoting health and combating premature aging.
Culinary recipes from milk.
1. Uurag (Colostrum)
For its preparation, colostrum of the second and third milking is used (colostrum is a special composition of milk after calving cows for a week). The colostrum is filtered through a clean gauze, wheat flour and salt are added to it. The whole mass is thoroughly mixed, poured into a greased frying pan or brazier and placed in the oven. After 30-45 minutes, the mass rises magnificently and becomes covered with a golden crust. After the mass is well baked, it should be cooled. The dish is ready, it can be served on the table. Uurag is tastier with melted butter for green tea with milk. For 1 liter of colostrum 200 g of flour. Salt to taste.
2. Urmen (Milk froths)
This is one of the best dairy dishes. Boil fresh milk over low heat for twenty to thirty minutes until foam appears. Then put in a cool place for 12 hours. After some time, a layer of froths from 1.5 to 2 cm thick forms on the surface of the milk. The thickness of the layer depends on the fat content of the milk. The foam is carefully removed with birch spatulas and dried if it is a warm season. In winter it is frozen. Dried or frozen foams are cut in the form of waffles or in any other form and served on the table.
3. Tarag
It quenches thirst well and saturates at the same time. It has valuable nutritional properties. Tarag has always found use as a preliminary treat for a guest while a hot meal is being prepared. It is quite possible to cook it in the conditions of the city. After the skins (urme) are removed, the milk is slightly warmed up, then the leaven (gurelge) is poured into it, i.e. a small cup of taraga of the previous preparation. If there is no sourdough, you can cook it. It is enough to mix a little sour cream and rye bread - the sourdough is ready. It remains to add sourdough to milk and put for a day in a warm place. Before serving tarag, shake it well, adding, if desired, sour cream, cream or fresh milk. For 1 liter of milk, 100 g of sour cream and 100 g of rye bread are required for fermentation. (Annex 2)
4. Shanachan zoohey (Salamat)
Previously, a mealy mass from the dried roots of various edible plants was used to prepare salamat. Sour cream is boiled over low heat, constantly stirring with a wooden spoon. Then they begin to pour flour into it, while speeding up stirring, otherwise lumps form. Continuous stirring affects the release of oil, the more it comes out, the better. To do this, add a little water. Coarse rye flour is best for making salamat. The dish is considered ready when the porridge-like mass, all soaked with oil, stops sticking to the spoon. This dish is nutritious and high in calories. (Annex 2)
5. Segee (Kumiss)
First of all, it is a remedy for diseases of the respiratory system. Secondly, a wonderful tonic drink. Highly dietary and nutritional properties of koumiss. In addition, an honored guest is greeted with koumiss. He enjoys wide popularity even now. The technology of its preparation: 3 liters of strained mare's milk is poured into a five-liter bottle and 500-600 g of well-washed raisins are added. After that, the bottle is placed for 3-4 days in a cool place. Thus, the starter for further preparation of koumiss is ready. Then, half a liter of ready-made koumiss is taken for 3 liters of fresh milk, i.e. sourdough, mix them. After 3-4 days, they receive a therapeutic dietary drink - segee (koumiss).
6. Huruud (Homemade cheese)
Khuruud is a natural cheese. Prepared in the following way. Fresh whole milk in an enamel bowl is placed in a cool place. After two or three days, it usually ferments, and thick sour cream stagnates on the surface. Sour cream is removed, and homemade cheese, a tasty and nutritious canned product, is prepared from yogurt.
Sour milk is boiled over low heat for five minutes. The resulting curd mass is filtered, then laid out in cakes, pressed with wooden planks and exposed for drying.
7. Airag or khurenge
A wonderful diet drink, with low acidity of the stomach, quenches thirst in the hot season.
Eedemeg (buttermilk) or fresh milk is used for its preparation.
In buttermilk, which is poured into a special wooden dish, leaven is added, i.e. khurenge of the previous use. Then the dishes are covered with a lid and left for 3-4 days for fermentation to occur. In this case, it is necessary to stir the milk mass regularly with a wooden mixer. When small bubbles begin to appear and burst on its surface, consider that the airag is ripe and ready for use.
Airag is drunk, adding, if desired, sour cream, cream and sugar. As it is consumed, small amounts of milk or eedemeg are added to hurenge, then it is shaken with a wooden beater so that it retains its properties for a long time and does not turn too sour.
Meat dishes
Meat dishes are especially valued in Buryat cuisine. Buhlers, poses, ubsun, khirmasa, oreomog, chiime, black pudding, cooked skillfully, in compliance with traditional recipes, meet all the requirements of a hospitable table, meet the most refined tastes (Appendix 3). The traditions of national cuisine were formed on the basis of the characteristics of natural cattle breeding.
In each season of the year, the meat of a certain type of animal was consumed. So, in summer, preference was given to lamb, which contains mainly saturated fatty acids, which increases a person’s resistance to heat, closer to winter - horse meat, in winter - beef, which are rich in unsaturated fatty acids that increase resistance to cold.
Skilled cattle breeders, the Buryats know the secrets of fattening animals intended for slaughter, they know their anatomy perfectly, butcher the carcass strictly in parts, rarely resorting to an ax. Each part of the carcass, each element of the offal is used to prepare a certain type of dish.
Healing properties of meat
Mutton: contains B vitamins useful for the nervous system, a lot of fluorine (protection against caries), contains lecithin (regulates cholesterol levels), iron is 30% more than in pork, many valuable amino acids, stimulates the pancreas (prevention of diabetes).
Beef: a lot of minerals, hematopoietic effect, digestible better than vegetables and fruits, neutralizes hydrochloric acid, helps to normalize stomach acidity, high protein content, high nutritional value.
horsemeat: high content of amino acids, iron, phosphorus, vitamins A, B, E, PP. Neutralizes harmful effects and radiation. It restores and normalizes the liver, has a choleretic effect, improves blood circulation, lowers cholesterol, and improves metabolic processes in the body.
Culinary recipes from meat.
1. Poses (buuzas)
Widely known, popular and favorite dish. Poses are attractive in appearance, excellent in taste, can decorate any table. Lamb pulp is washed, passed through a meat grinder with a large grate. Gourmets chop meat with a knife. Finely chopped internal fat, onions, salt, spices, water are added. It is advisable to use fresh, chilled meat to get more broth. Mix thoroughly.
The dough is prepared as for homemade noodles, we twist it into a round bundle, cut into small, 2-4 cm, sticks, which are turned into thin circles. Minced meat is placed on these mugs, the edges are pinched, leaving a small hole for steam to escape. Poses are steamed for 18-20 minutes. Readiness can be recognized by light juice. Poses are prepared not only from lamb. Beef and horse meat with pork are successfully used. For 4-5 people - meat 850 g, internal fat or fatty pork 220 g, 3 onions, salt. Wheat flour - one tablespoon for a bunch of juice in minced meat, water 130 g. For dough - flour 350 g (two glasses), 2-3 eggs, salt.
In our area, the following minced meat recipe for buuza is used: 3kg. beef, 2 kg. horsemeat, 1kg. lamb (can be replaced with pork), 3 onions, salt, spices. (Annex 3)
Buhler (Lamb, beef, horse meat in broth)
From the front of the carcass, chop pieces of about a hundred grams. Put them in a saucepan, cover with cold water. Then lower the cut onion head.
Cook over low heat for 35-40 minutes, stirring occasionally and removing the foam. Salt to taste, immediately after boiling.
Before removing the pan from the heat, add the bay leaf and pepper to the broth. Before serving, season it with onion, chopped strips, finely chopped parsley or dill.
Cumin is added to enhance the healing properties of lamb broth. Meat on the bones is considered the most tender and delicious. (Annex 3)
Noodle soup
Cut lamb flesh into strips.
To prepare noodles, the dough is kneaded only on eggs, then rolled out 2-3 mm thick, rolled up and cut. Then the noodles are lowered into the hot broth and boiled for 15-20 minutes until they begin to float to the surface. When cooking, constantly remove the foam.
The second recipe: boil the bones and dip the noodles, meat, cut into strips into the bone broth.
For one serving - 100-150 g of lamb, 45 g of noodles. Salt, pepper, bay leaf to taste.
Hirmasa (Soup from the entrails)
Cut the cleaned and washed lamb peritoneum, intestines, lungs and internal fat into thin strips 5-6 cm long, put in a bowl, pour cold water and put on fire. Cook for 20-30 minutes. Then salt, pepper and dip the homemade noodles. At the end of cooking, add crushed garlic.
For 5-6 people - peritoneum 300 g, small intestines - 200 g, lungs - 150 g, large intestine - 200 g, internal fat - 100 g, 4 cloves of garlic, salt, pepper. Homemade noodles - 200-250 g. Dough for noodles - flour 250 g, 1 egg, 40 g water, salt.
The recipe of my grandmother Sophia Semyonovna Selezneva - washed intestines 50 cm long, thinly sliced into strips of internal fat, stomach, lungs are woven into a pigtail. Cooking time depends on the age of the animal.
Recipe for poses from the insides:the intestines are boiled, finely chopped with onions and boiled like regular poses. (Annex 3)
5. Teeley
This dish is served to a distinguished guest. The sheep's head (teelei) is sheared, scorched to a golden color, carefully cleaned and washed. Then, separating the jaws and tongue, boil in salted water until the skin softens.
Served on a platter, overlaid with ribs with pulp on both sides, making a triangular incision on the forehead, and always with a spout towards the guest. Distributed along the right bank of the Angara river.
The treat is purely symbolic, meaning a high degree of respect for the guest of honor. (Appendix 3)
6. Dala.
The scapula is divided into three parts: dala - the actual scapula, athaal - the ulnar part, harti - the radial part.
To prepare this dish, a shoulder blade is taken and separated from the cartilage. Then they wash it, put it in a pot of water, along with two or three vertebrae and ribs. After the water boils, remove the foam, salt, add finely chopped onion, cook until tender.
Boiled for about an hour. If, when cutting the fleshy part of the shoulder blade, light-colored juice appears, then it is considered that the dish is ready. They put spices in it, and then remove it from the fire.
A shovel, along with vertebrae and ribs, is treated to an honored guest. Broth with finely chopped onions, dill, parsley is served in cups or bowls.
Athaal and harti - the ulnar and radial parts of the front leg of the ram - are boiled in exactly the same way as the dala (shoulder blade). Served on the table also along with the vertebrae and ribs. According to custom, they are intended for young men.
7. Ubsuun
Separate the brisket from the ribs along the cartilage, rinse, pour water. Boil whole, adding salt, onion and spices to taste.
Prepare the brisket in another way. When slaughtered at home, the brisket is left with the skin on. The wool on it is pre-singed. Then the brisket is cooked, as in the first case.
Ubsuun (boiled brisket) is an honorable treat. Served to the most respected guest. They put it on a wide plate along with mojo semgen (femur) in a bouquet of cervical vertebrae.
8. Borso
Beef meat is cut into long strips and hung in the wind in the shade. They do it in winter. By spring, the meat dries up and takes on a grayish-white color. Taste and nutritional properties are fully preserved. Moreover, the meat acquires a peculiar taste and smell, it does not spoil. In spring and summer, soup with noodles, oatmeal and millet groats, crushed wheat is cooked from it, boiled until softened, adding green or onion, garlic, salt, pepper, bay leaf. A very tasty dish. In military campaigns, this dish is indispensable. For 5 people - 200 g of borso, 200 g of cereals or noodles, 2-3 onions, 2-3 liters. water. This dish was widely used in military campaigns.
9. Planed meat with noodles
Horsemeat is cut into small cubes and stewed in butter along with finely chopped onions and spices until tender. Then the meat is mixed with hot boiled homemade noodles. Knead noodles only on eggs.
Horse meat 180, butter 30, noodles 100, ground black pepper, bay leaf, salt.
10. Meat sausage
The large intestine is thoroughly washed, stuffed with minced meat and tied up every 10–15 cm so that the juice does not leak out. Then the sausage is boiled for 20-25 minutes. Served hot. Minced meat: beef, along with onions and beef fat, is passed through a meat grinder with a fine grate, flour, cold water, and salt are added.
For 1 m of the colon - 1 kg of minced meat: beef 850, beef fat 200, onion 100, flour 15, water 130, ground black pepper, salt.
11. Blood sausage
The large intestine is thoroughly washed, stuffed with minced meat and boiled sausage for 20 minutes. Minced meat is prepared from blood, milk, finely chopped onions and fat.
For 1 m of the colon - 1 kg of minced meat: beef blood 1200, milk 30, beef fat 30, onion 50, salt.
1.3.Tea and flour products
Despite the predominance of meat and dairy dishes, Buryat cuisine also includes tea and flour products. Tea is primarily green because it has healing properties.
Healing properties of green tea:thins the blood, improves blood circulation, renews it, disinfects the gastrointestinal tract, is useful for headaches, is used as a diuretic. As in any other cuisine, “dessert” is supposed to be served with tea; in Buryat cuisine, it is shangi, Buryat pancakes. (Appendix 4).
Culinary recipes for tea and flour products.
1. Nogoon sai (Green tea)
Crushed green tea from a briquette is poured into cold water and boiled to remove the bitter taste. Pour in milk and boil again, stirring continuously, for 5-7 minutes. Some people drink tea slightly salty. It is served with melted butter and Buryat shangi. Green tea has a beneficial effect on the human body. It contains 12 to 18.6 percent caffeine. For 3 liters of water - 200 g of green tea, 1.5-2 liters of milk.
2. Ulaazhargyn sai (Ivan tea with milk)
Buryats from time immemorial drank dried willow-tea, which is good for health. The leaves were collected in late autumn, when the leaves of Ivan-tea, withered, folded into tubules. Tea is brewed in cauldrons, tea is introduced into boiling water, when it boils, milk is poured in and allowed to boil, after which the tea is infused for 10-15 minutes and drunk hot or cold. Tea is obtained with a unique aroma of the forest and boiled milk or cream. Tea is served with shangi, pancakes. For 1 liter of tea 20-30 g of Ivan-tea, 300-400 ml of milk.
4. Buryat shangi
Knead the yeast dough in sour milk, let it rise. The ripened dough is cut into large cakes about 2 cm thick. Lubricate them with thick sour cream on top, make cuts and place on baking sheets in the oven. Readiness is determined by the golden crust and the smell of hot bread.
5. Togoonoy beliny (Pancakes in Buryat style)
Knead the liquid dough in milk with the addition of slaked soda, salt and wheat flour. You can add eggs. Pancakes are baked on red-hot cast-iron cauldrons, lubricating them with fat. Boilers are installed on taganchiks (gulamta) on an open fire. Hot ghee or boiled sour cream is served with pancakes. For 10 people - 1 liter of milk, 300-400 g of flour, ½ teaspoon of soda, salt to taste and 5-6 eggs.
We studied the culinary recipes of the Buryat national cuisine and found out that the cooking recipes have not changed for many centuries. At present, these recipes are known and used in every family of our village, district, district, regardless of nationality. Our ancestors were well aware of the beneficial properties of beef, lamb, horse meat. And scientifically it was proved only in the 20th century. It should be noted that the diet of the Buryats is based on the use of environmentally friendly products. That we do not use any hormones, antibiotics, or growth stimulants when raising animals. Our pets graze on green meadows, drink spring water and naturally gain weight.
Questionnaire: The attitude of students to the Buryat cuisine
During the survey, students were asked the following questions:
Name the dishes of Buryat cuisine.
What dish do you prefer?
Do you follow the traditions of Buryat cuisine in your diet?
Do you think Buryat cuisine is healthy? (Annex 5)
Answering the first question, all respondents named poses (100%), the next - buchler (60%), salamat (32%).
Considering the second question, the majority of students preferred postures (98%). Summarizing the answers to the first two questions, it can be argued that the poses are a symbol of the Buryat national cuisine.
In our school, on the days of Sagaalgan (New Year), a “late day” is held, when poses are cooked in the canteen and a competition is held: who will eat the most poses.
According to the results of the third question, 73% of the students observe the traditions of the Buryat cuisine, since in many families there are representatives of the older generation who not only observe the traditions, but also instill them in the younger generation. (Appendix 6)
Drawing conclusions on the fourth question, we found that 92% of respondents agree that Buryat cuisine is good for health. It should be assumed that such a high result is associated with a clear example of the longevity of the elders of our village.
Long-livers of Kuyta village
1. Petrova Claudia Petrovna - born in 1926
2. Seleznev Antsifer Petrovich - born in 1926
3. Khamaganov Mikhail Nikolaevich - born in 1926
4. Shodonova Anisya Arkhipovna - born in 1926
5. Malasov Georgy Gerasimovich - born in 1931
6. Selezneva Maria Savelyevna - born in 1931
7. Dzhegofarova Rakhil Garifovna - born in 1932
8. Pokonova Valentina Petrovna - born in 2932
9. Sodoeva Antonina Petrovna - born in 1933
10. Gulimova Valentina Alexandrovna - born in 1933
11. Evdokia Efremovna Atutova - born in 1933
12. Selezneva Maria Grigorievna - born in 1933
13. Marmueva Olga Nikolaevna - born in 1934
14. Sodoev Ilya Nikolaevich - born in 1935
I conducted a survey among the residents of the village and found out the following: the number of centenarians who have crossed the 80-year mark is 14 people per 345 residents of the village. Kuyt.
During the Great Patriotic War they were teenagers. According to the stories of grandparents, they mainly ate dairy products, offal, there was little meat because everything was sent to the front. There was always a shortage of bread, but in the second year of the war, a not tall, nondescript-looking plant appeared in our area, which the locals called "kurlych". The children were the first to try the seeds of this plant, they liked it. And adults began to collect seeds in the fall, they looked like buckwheat seeds. They were ground on millstones, diluted with water and baked cakes. There was nothing tastier in the world. Kurlych helped the villagers in the most difficult time. And after the war, the plant disappeared. According to the elders: The Almighty helped us to survive.
After the war, the traditional type of food was gradually restored, which was dominated by dairy and meat products.
It was milk and meat nutrition that saved 17-year-old girls who, according to the order, ended up in the coal mines of the city of Cheremkhovo and, after a year of work underground, returned home emaciated beyond recognition.
We can safely say that the traditional type of nutrition contributes to maintaining health and longevity. And if we take into account the fact that many women, when issuing birth certificates, reduced their age by 3-4 years in order to get married, then the number of residents over 85 is higher.
It should be noted that no serious illnesses were noted among the elders, except for age-related problems with vision and hearing.
Conclusion
Summarizing the results of the project, it is quite possible to say that the nutrition of each nation is determined by the conditions in which it lives. Since the Buryat people live in the harsh conditions of Siberia, nutrition has become an integral factor in maintaining sustainable and good health.
In this regard, the Buryat people have their own methods and recipes for cooking. Not only meat was eaten, but also offal. It is quite possible to say that it was offal that was used in the first place, since they were the main source of trace elements and vitamins.
In addition, it is necessary to mention the healing properties of Buryat cuisine. For example, the broth is used to strengthen vitality. Horse internal fat "arbin" helps with iron deficiency. With angina, they use internal mutton fat with milk. Dairy products improve the intestinal microflora and normalize the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract. Kumis improves the functioning of the respiratory system.
At the end of my work, I came to the following conclusions:
in traditional Buryat cuisine, meat and dairy products are used. Buryat food is based on cattle breeding;
Buryat cuisine recipes have healing properties;
Buryats are characterized by natural nutrition, which is based on environmentally friendly food;
to maintain and strengthen health and longevity, it is necessary to follow the principles of nutrition based on the centuries-old traditions of the Buryat people.
Bibliography
Culture of the Buryats of the Baikal region: A popular edition. - Irkutsk: Publishing house - in "Reprocentre A1", 2012. - 207 p.
Materials of the interregional scientific and practical conference: Buryat population of the Irkutsk region (province) and Ust-Orda Buryat Autonomous Okrug in the 20th century. - Irkutsk: Publication of OJSC "Irkutsk Regional Printing House No. 1", 2002. - 284 p.
Tsydynzhapov G.Ts., Badueva E.B. Buryat cuisine. - Ulan - Ude: Buryat book publishing house, 1991. - 91 p.
Appendix 3 .
Meat dishes.
Poses (Buuzas)
giblets
Teeley
Appendix 6
Grandma and me
My grandmother and I cook booze
We have on the table at home: milk, buuzy, noodles, buhler, black pudding
What to do, "racism" is also inherent in popular dietology. The white food diet comes in several versions that are available online for free. These versions of the "white diet," as black and striped Americans call it, differ in detail. The main rule of all menus is that you cannot eat processed food of white color and shades close to white. Don't believe the picture below, white vegetables are welcome, as are any vegetables in any sensible weight loss diet.
A diet without white foods is not a low-carbohydrate diet. The goal of eliminating white foods from the diet is to reduce the glycemic index of the food consumed by a person. The body releases less insulin - less desire for a dieter to overeat.
What is white food? Sources say that it should be understood as pasta, potatoes (if it is white, otherwise there are different ones), white beans, white sugar, white bread and everything that is made from wheat flour. Also salt and milk. Brown rice, bran bread, green and multi-colored vegetables and fruits, nuts and red meat are allowed. It is highly undesirable to drink purchased juices with added sugar. The amount of food taken in the recommendations for the white diet is usually not limited. No special physical exercises are also included.
All vegetables except potatoes, fresh fruits, fish and seafood, lean meats, nuts, cheese, beans, bran or whole grain bread, brown rice, olive oil. You can use sweeteners based on sucralose (E955), which is not absorbed by the body.
Approximate daily menu of the “white” diet
- Breakfast: scrambled eggs or scrambled eggs, two black bread toasts;
- Morning snack: fresh strawberries;
- Lunch: brown rice, tuna and vegetable salad with balsamic dressing;
- Afternoon snack: walnuts, some raisins;
- Dinner: grilled lamb, steamed asparagus, green salad;
- At night: one peach.
Benefits of a diet without white foods:
- No need to count and measure anything;
- The diet leaves white flour and sugar, which are sources of empty calories and the cause of fluctuations in blood sugar levels;
- Avoid anti-diet foods such as cookies, bread, cakes, pizza, ice cream and potato chips;
- The use of "good" carbohydrates contained in vegetables and fruits is encouraged;
- May prevent or delay the development of diabetes;
- Removing salt from your diet can help reduce high blood pressure.
Disadvantages of the diet:
- Healthy white foods such as chicken breast and dairy products are disappearing from the diet;
- A dietitian may think that all food that is not white is good for him;
- Fatty foods such as hard cheese are allowed, while cottage cheese is excluded;
- Nothing is said about the benefits of physical exercise and psychological work on oneself.
Conclusion:
Removing flour and sugar from the diet is, of course, very good. However, a diet program does not guarantee success in weight loss. For many dieters, a diet without "white food" is a way to balance insulin levels and avoid false hunger, which will lead to a reduction in calorie intake.
On such a diet, to tell the truth, it is not surprising to overeat - for example, fatty nuts, vegetable oil, cheese. That is, the color of food is still not a criterion for its dietary quality.
The historically established food system of the nomads of Central Asia, which includes the Buryats, is built on a strict balance of meat (and various meat and blood dishes) and dairy products, supplemented in a small amount by products of plant origin (wild and cultivated cereals and vegetables), as well as products of hunting and fishing, which, however, were not always available and far from all groups of the nomadic population.
The ratio between the consumed amount of meat and dairy products depended on the season of the economic year of the nomads. And there were only two of them: summer and winter. The first one lasted from April to October, covering a six-month period from the time of calving to the end of its milking. In the diet of this period, dairy products played the leading role, flour products took the second place, and only the third place was occupied by meat. The winter diet, more thorough, included primarily meat from livestock, various types of cheese and butter prepared in the summer, and flour products (Ethnography of Nutrition ... 1981, pp. 122-123).
With small local deviations, this dietary structure can be extended to all nomads of the region under consideration.
Meat and meat dishes. As already mentioned in the section "Cattle breeding" (Chapter 3), the Buryats bred the following types of cattle: horses, small cattle (sheep, goats), cattle (including yaks and sarlaks - a cross between a yak and a cow), camels. In different groups of Buryats, the composition of the herd varied somewhat depending on the geographical zone, climate, state of pastures, etc. The meat of all types of livestock was used for food, but the most prestigious among the Buryats, as well as among the Mongols, was considered lamb. She was given preference both on weekdays and at festive feasts and ritual ceremonies. The next most important place was occupied by beef and horse meat.
Meat (boiled and fried), blood (occasionally raw, but more often boiled), entrails (raw, boiled, fried), in extreme situations - dzut and, as a result, a massive loss of livestock - bones, hooves, carrion. The meat was eaten mainly boiled, cooked for a short time, in large whole pieces. (buheleer), believing that only slightly boiled meat retains all its beneficial properties. The degree of meat readiness was determined by the quality of the broth. The meat was not salted during cooking, but a sauce was made from the meat broth for it, thickly salted, seasoned, if possible, with garlic, onions, and peppers.
All methods of frying and baking meat known to the nomads of Eurasia date back to the pre-cattle breeding, hunting HKT of the forest-steppe zone. The most popular of them are the following: 1) roasting the carcass with the help of red-hot stones thrown through the neck into the abdominal cavity of the animal; 2) frying on coals or ashes in a pit covered with earth or littered with stones on which a fire is made; 3) roasting the carcass on a spit over a fire. For such cooking, usually unflaked carcasses of roe deer, wild boars, mountain goats, elks, large marmots of the Eurasian steppes - tarbagans were used. Unlike the Mongols, who continue to count boodog from tarbagan a delicacy (Zhukovskaya. 2002. S. 150-151), the Buryats have not eaten it for quite some time.
During the hunting period of the life of the Buryat society after the end of the winter battue hunting zegete aba, after performing the ceremony of sacrifice to the "masters of the taiga", that is, the patron spirits of animals, they divided the killed animals between the clans, whose representatives participated in the hunt, ate part of the meat at a joint feast, the rest was taken home as supplies for the winter (Khangalov. 1958. T. I. C. 71). After the cattle-breeding type of economy began to prevail among the Buryats, meat for the winter began to be harvested in the fall, slaughtering the number of heads of livestock needed to feed the family with the onset of cold weather. These stocks, like cattle intended for slaughter, were called uuse.
One family needed the meat of two cows and one horse for the winter. For this purpose, in the herd of dry cows, an old horse, no longer very suitable for farming, was chosen. On this amount of meat, an average-income family lived all winter, and in the spring, in March, another animal was slaughtered, which before that was specially fed with hay and watered with water salted with natural salt Khuzhir (Galdanova. 1992, p. 78).
During the slaughter of livestock, each family tried to treat their neighbors, relatives who helped to do this, with fresh meat. For this purpose, the ribs, the posterior cervical vertebrae, the fatty rectum, and the heart were boiled. But beef, pork and lamb liver were considered especially tasty: they were eaten raw, frozen or fried on the coals of a fire in a fatty film. (Tugutov. 1957, p. 84). The liver of the Zakamensky Buryats was sometimes boiled (Galdanova. 1992, p. 80).
Favorite common Buryat dish - minced lamb offal zurme. The finely cut peritoneum, small intestines, scar, fat were wrapped with a thin intestinal film, the resulting tourniquet was boiled, laid out on the table and treated to everyone.
Favorite foods included dalan - horse fat, arbin - abdominal fat, four fingers thick, gadar- spinal fat, two fingers thick, hard; doctor- interior fat, the horse has a lot of it, they filled the intestines, which were then boiled. All four types of fat were eaten frozen, doctor sometimes mixed with barley or rye flour. In winter colds, horse fat supported the body's heat resistance.
There are a lot of varieties of sausages known to different groups of Buryats. The outer shell of the sausages was always the intestines, which were washed well before stuffing them with minced meat. We will try to list several possible options for minced meat for making sausages: 1) minced meat from the brain of a bull, mixed with finely chopped pieces of beef (getehetei mehan); boiled in meat broth, served hot and cold, often used as a supply of food on a long journey; 2) minced meat from a mixture of pork pieces with coagulated fresh blood (erielzhe); 3) lamb stomach filled with blood and boiled in broth (hototy shuhen); 4) the lamb or beef colon is turned inside out, the layer of fat covering it from the outside becomes the filling: after cooking, a sausage with a white fat filling is obtained (sagaan mekhan, khoshkhonog); 5) a mixture of finely chopped beef and lamb with the addition of wild onions, peppers and, if the meat is lean, then fat or brain; it is filled with the intestine, boiled in broth, served on the table, cut into thick pieces (hiime) (Tugutov. 1957. S. 84-85).
Most often, sausages made from intestines and various types of minced meat and blood were eaten immediately or within the next few days after cooking, but when frozen, they could be stored for a long time and were quite suitable as stocks for the winter.
Cured and deep-fried meat also kept well. In the summer they dried in the sun, in autumn and winter - in the smoke of the hearth, in a well-ventilated room. The meat was carefully cut from the bones, cut into thin strips, well dried it became hard (borso) and could be stored for years. Fresh meat was fried in its own juice until the liquid disappeared, then fried, adding fat; the cooled meat was laid out in leather bags (hudehen), in them, the meat retained its nutritional value, did not spoil, in them they took it with them on the road (Galdanova. 1992. S. 81-82).
However, the so-called "meat flour" was no less popular type of meat stocks. The meat was fried in cauldrons in small pieces until black, the resulting lumps were ground into flour. In this form, it was preserved for a long time, it was transportable, it was stored up, going on a long journey. (Tugutov. 1957, p. 85).
Blood deserves special attention as a food product. First of all, it should be said about the use of "living blood", that is, the blood of living animals. Its use by Mongolian nomads in the Middle Ages is known. Marco Polo, for example, writes that every warrior of the Mongol army in the XIII century. could have for his personal needs up to 18 horses, the blood of which during campaigns often served as food for the Mongol warriors (Zhukovskaya. 1988. S. 71-72). "Live" blood for this purpose was extracted as follows. The animal was tied up, thrown to the ground, the veins near the neck were cut and the blood was pumped into some vessel, and sometimes they simply pressed their lips to the incision and drank directly from it. Painless for the animal, no more than 500 g of blood can be taken from it at a time, after which, after a couple of days, it restored this loss. This dose was enough for a one-time "meal". As a camping food, blood was extremely convenient in that it did not require any special transportation or special preparation. According to doctors, it is tasty from a gastronomic and healthy from a medical point of view. (Equall. 1963. S. 145-146).
M.N. Khangalov mentions a similar method of obtaining blood from the Buryats, and blood from a vein was expressed not only from horses, but also from cattle. However, the collected blood was not drunk raw, but boiled in a cauldron and eaten. (Khangalov. 1958. T. I. S. 209). Probably, in extreme conditions, the Buryats, like the Mongols, drank fresh raw blood directly from the incision, but no one remembers this. In the literature, there is evidence only of blood sausages and other dishes, which include "boiled blood".
Notes of G.R. Galdanova on the use of horse blood by the Zakamensky Buryats. They distinguished white blood in horses (shabay) and regular red blood (shuhen). It was believed that light-colored horses have "white", light blood without clots, and sausage from it turns out to be especially tasty. On the contrary, there are many clots in the red blood. To make the sausage tastier, salt, dried onion, garlic were added, and the clots were given to the dogs. (Galdanova. 1992, p. 80).
Animal entrails (heart, kidneys, liver, lungs, testicles) were also used as an independent dish: they were served boiled along with meat. Eating each of them among the Buryats, as well as among the Mongols, was considered as strengthening the corresponding properties of human nature: the eaten heart increased courage, the liver - strength, testicles - sexual potency, etc. The liver and kidneys of the horse were eaten by those who slaughtered it. Beef and lamb hearts were divided in half and given to children (Tugutov. 1957, p. 79).
A few words should be said about the theory of the so-called ritual rejection of pork by nomads. The Mongols really did not eat pork, but not because they felt any religious aversion to it (neither shamanism nor Buddhism contain any prescriptions in this regard). The explanation for this is very simple: the pig is not adapted to a nomadic lifestyle, cannot eat all year round on pasture, and it has never been part of the herd of Eurasian nomads. They didn't eat it simply because it wasn't there. The Mongols always ate the wild boars killed on the hunt with great pleasure. The pig appeared in Transbaikalia with the arrival of the Russians and gradually sedentary Buryat farms began to acquire it. Soups were cooked from pork, they learned to salt lard (Tugutov. 1957, p. 86).
Milk and dairy products. The second, no less important than meat, component of the nutrition of the nomadic population of Central Asia was dairy products. Milk of all types of livestock was used for their manufacture: cows, yaks, sheep, goats, mares. All nomads had a different attitude to the milk of various animals and, accordingly, to its most rational use. For example, yak milk was valued for its very high fat content (10-12%), due to which it was possible to obtain the largest amount of butter from it (Ethnography of nutrition ... 1981. P. 124). Cow's, goat's and sheep's milk was used mainly for the preparation of dairy products designed both for long-term storage (butter, hard cheese, dried cottage cheese) and unsuitable for it (foams, soft cheese, curdled milk). Sheep and cow's milk was added to tea. It was called "whitening the tea". Mare's milk was used only for making koumiss.
Both the Mongols and the Buryats, with a shortage of milk, used a mixture of milk from different types of animals to make dairy products. At the same time, in both groups, the mixing of milk from large and small cattle was considered a normal phenomenon, and the products from this mixture were of high quality.
All dairy products produced in the Buryat nomadic economy are divided into two main groups: perishable and long-term storage. Cream is the first (susgee), foam (urme), curdled milk (tarag), unleavened cheese (huruud) and non-alcoholic milk drinks. They went into food as they were made.
Among the products of daily consumption in the summer and autumn, while the cows were milking, was tarag. It was made like this: milk was boiled, when it cooled to about 20-23 °, sourdough was poured into it (gurelge)- 2-3 tablespoons of old taraga, which were previously diluted in warm milk. Then the vessel with fermented milk was placed in a relatively warm place, but not in the sun, after 3-4 hours the milk coagulated and turned into curdled milk. Before use, it was shaken and the resulting whey was drained. If the tarag turned out to be too thick, it was bred with boiled milk, and sometimes raw, if they were sure that the cattle did not suffer from any disease.
If there was no sourdough, then they first made it: bread was crumbled into a cauldron with cooled boiled milk, silver objects (spoons, glasses) were lowered, they waited until the milk curdled, some part was poured into a special vessel and turned into a sourdough for future use, the resulting tarag was drunk. Usually in such a situation, it turned out to be liquid and bitter. The second portion on the sourdough from the first was already better, but only from the third or fourth time the sourdough turned out as it should, and the whole subsequent tarag, made on it was of high quality. However, if you ferment insufficiently cooled or, on the contrary, too cooled milk, tarag also turned out bitter and liquid, and even the best leaven did not save him (Khangalov. 1958. T. I. S. 232-233).
Long-term and annually harvested products for the winter include butter and several varieties of dried cottage cheese. The nomads of Eurasia know two main ways of obtaining butter: melting and churning. Melted butter is more valued in the economy, as it is better and longer stored. It is obtained by melting foams and their subsequent fermentation in vessels from the stomachs of small and large cattle or in the intestines of cattle, which are very capacious, despite their relatively small volume. Vessels made from the stomachs of goats and sheep (guzee), intended for long-term storage and fermentation of products, were thoroughly washed, sometimes even soaked in koumiss with salt. Subject to all the rules of processing and storage in the dark, the canned product could not only be stored in this package for a year or more (7-year-old oil was highly valued), but also improve its nutritional properties during this time. The practical experience of nomads in this area is still the object of close interest from various firms involved in the production of canned dairy products.
The Buryats know two varieties of ghee: fatter, yellow in color and less fat, white. Sugar, flour, cottage cheese, sometimes even berries were often added to such white butter to increase its nutritional value. (Galdanova. 1992. S. 83-84). Butter was obtained by churning the cream that had settled on raw milk. It was stored worse than melted, and did not play a special role in the economy. Oil was seasoned with tea, soups, mixed with mutton fat and boiled pieces of unleavened dough in it. (boorsog), and sometimes ate in a "pure" form, if the body felt a lack of fat.
The Buryats also know one more type of oil - the so-called "bone" oil, obtained from bones containing bone marrow, crushed and crushed into small groats. The grits were boiled for a long time in a cauldron until bone oil floated on the surface. It was collected in a special vessel, eaten as a healing agent, and also used in the processing of skins to lubricate the mezra. (Galdanova. 1992, p. 82).
Various types of dried cottage cheese, stockpiled for the winter, differed in taste and color: the one that was obtained by boiling strained yogurt had a white color with a bluish tint, while boiling the whey - a little reddish. Both had a sour taste. When filtering the mixture of whey and cottage cheese, which remained after the distillation of vodka, a fine curd powder was obtained, tasteless and white. (aarsa).
To aarsa it turned out to be of high quality, in the tub where it was stored, it was necessary to add curd mass every day (bozo), remaining after distillation of vodka. A good farm prepared 15-16 tubs with aars for the winter. It was nutritious, in winter it was poured with water, flour was added, boiled over low heat, stirring thoroughly. Sometimes grains of barley or wild buckwheat were added. And if you pour aarsu with milk and boil until the liquid evaporates, there will be a curd mass (aaryuul). If it is dried in the sun and in the hearth, then it will be stored for a long time. Ate it, soaking it in hot tea (Galdanova. 1992, p. 76).
The most delicious of dairy dishes are dried foams and cream melted over a fire, fried with flour. (salamat, zɵɵhey). Salamat was considered and is still considered a ritual dish; it is sacrificed during many shamanic rites.
It was also prepared on the occasion of the arrival of guests, thereby showing them honor and respect, and for various festive celebrations of the family, clan and village level. Salamat was credited with the ability to "predict" the outcome of the case for which he was boiled: if, when preparing salamat, the oil from boiling cream stood out quickly and appeared on the surface, it was a "happy" sign, then everything will be fine, everything will be good luck. Otherwise, the usual flour porridge was obtained. If during the preparation of salamat a stranger entered the house, not related to the upcoming event or ceremony, he should immediately leave, because. salamat could not work out, which was a bad omen. It was impossible to cook salamat, going on a long journey (Galdanova. 1992. S. 84-85).
Milk drinks. First, a few words about whole milk.
Of particular interest is the question of the use of whole raw milk by nomads. Written evidence of this is contradictory. So, about the Mongols of the XIII century. Plano Carpini writes that they drank mare, sheep, cow and camel milk (Travel... 1957. p. 36), without making any difference between them, but Guillaume Rubruk (Travel... 1957. p. 95-98), Zhao Hong (Meng-da... 1975. p. 69) and Kirakos Gandzaketsi (Kirakos. 1976, p. 172) only talk about koumiss. In the "Secret Tale" sour milk and koumiss are mentioned, and in Rashid-ad-din - koumiss and goat's milk, and the consumption of the latter is considered as a symbol of poverty (Rashid ad-din, 1952. Vol. I, book. 1. S. 80, 91, PO). The Russian ambassador Vasily Tyumenets, who visited the Altyn Khans in Western Mongolia in 1615, among the "honorary" dishes he was treated to as a representative of a foreign state, mentions "cow's milk" and "wine and koumiss" (Ethnography of nutrition ... 1981, p. 126).
Researchers working in Mongolia in the 20th century testify to the limited use of whole milk. As a rule, milk is given to children to drink, but often not so much in a "pure" form, but mixed with various types of cottage cheese. Adults rarely drink it, mainly during ritual ceremonies: they treat an honored guest with a cup of milk, meet the bride with milk and sprinkle the yurt of the young during the wedding ceremony. On the first day of the New Year, all adults and children drink a cup of milk, etc. (Ethnography of nutrition ... 1981. S. 126-127). The Buryats only gave whole milk to their children. (Galdanova. 1982, p. 76).
It is not necessary to look for the reasons for the limited consumption of milk by nomads in the "theory of lactase deficiency", according to which a significant percentage of the entire adult population of the globe suffers to some extent from indigestibility of fresh milk, and can only eat sour dairy products. (McCracken. 1971. S. 481-482). Nomads who have been raising dairy cattle for centuries and consuming milk products are clearly the least affected. Most likely the reasons for this are as follows. Firstly, the milk yield of nomadic cattle, which is grazing all year round, has always been not so great. Secondly, the overwhelming amount of milk had to be processed into fermented milk products, which are absorbed by the body better than whole milk, and form a food supply for the winter. Thirdly, in the conditions of the Central Asian heat, milk quickly turned sour and became unfit for food, so the nomads recognized only artificially fermented milk.
With the advent of tea, all the free supply of fresh milk was used to make tea with milk. They drank tea many times a day, and it took almost all the amount of milk that the family could afford to drink fresh. Thus, the issue of milk is resolved quite simply: when there was a lot of it, they drank it in a "pure" form, and the majority of pastoralists almost never had a lot of it. Hence the restrictions on the consumption of whole milk. They drank it preferably boiled, and only sometimes - for medicinal purposes - fresh mare's milk.
In the economy of the Buryats, an abundance of dairy food began in the month of May, when cattle, after a hungry winter, ate fresh grass on pastures. The first few days after calving, cows were milked with colostrum (uurag). It was considered very useful after winter beriberi, they kneaded cakes on it and fed children and weakened old people. As soon as cows began to be milked with milk of normal fat content, women began to process milk in order to obtain butter, foam, cheese, cottage cheese, kurungi - fermented milk drink that remains after the butter has been extracted from fermented milk by churning. Kurunga used later as the basis for obtaining vodka by distillation.
Tea with milk, fat tail and fried flour.
All drinks of the traditional Buryat food system are also associated with milk. The most popular of them is tea with milk. (suutei sai). Tea among the Buryats, as well as among the Mongols, appeared at the end of the 16th - beginning of the 17th century, it was brought from China, exchanged for cattle, leather and wool. Basically, the nomads were in demand for coarse green tea, which was a mixture of chopped leaves and small branches of the tea bush. It was pressed into two-kilogram "bricks" and called "brick tea".
It was brewed directly in cast-iron cauldrons that were on fire, milk (cow, yak, sheep) was added to the boiling brewed tea, boiled for a few more minutes, stirring thoroughly. Then the boiler was removed from the fire, the tea was poured into a special vessel dombo or large metal teapots, from which each was poured into his personal dishes. Drinking tea without milk was considered blasphemy, an omen of the imminent impoverishment of the family, the loss of its main wealth - livestock. (Galdanova. 1992, p. 76).
Often, in addition to milk, butter, salt were added to tea (to restore the salt balance in the body, disturbed due to profuse sweating in the summer in extreme heat), toasted barley flour, lightly fried mutton tail fat, ram bone marrow, chopped and fried dried meat - all this dramatically increased its nutritional value. Tea with barley flour diluted in it, with the addition of meat ingredients, already looked like a mixture of soup with porridge, after eating three or four bowls of such a "drink" one could recharge with energy for the whole day. Various types of dried cottage cheese, unleavened cakes, pieces of dough fried in boiling fat were also served with tea. (boorsog).
Finely ground black long leaf tea, also imported from China, appeared in the urban environment from the middle of the 19th century, first among the Russian population, then among the Buryats. Traditionally, it is also drunk with milk, but without tail fat and dried meat. In addition to imported brick tea, all nomads were aware of its wild-growing substitutes. As such, the Buryats used burnet leaves (huden), rosehip leaves and flowers, fireweed (Russians call it Ivan-tea, and Buryats - ulaan jargana), as well as growths on the trunk and root of birch (chaga).
Sour-milk drinks: kurunga and koumiss. The second most important milk drink, known to all groups of Buryats, is the one already mentioned above. kurunga (hurenge). Non-greasy (because the oil churned by hand or a separator has already been removed from it), slightly sour, it perfectly quenches thirst in the summer heat. The initial product for it is cow's milk, the remains of cottage cheese, a small amount of old kurunga, whey, rennet, bread crust, etc. were used as a leaven. (Ethnography of nutrition ... 1981. P. 128).
Gained worldwide fame koumiss - a drink made from fermented mare's milk. Kumys (kymyz) - Turkish word. Mongolian-speaking peoples call this drink differently: Buryats - segee, guunei airag; Mongols - airag, guuni airag, tsegeen; western mongols - chigen. Literature about koumiss, its preparation, medical properties, history of occurrence and distribution includes many hundreds of names and covers all the nomads of Eurasia who know this drink.
The first historical evidence of koumiss is the "History" of Herodotus (5th century BC), where it is mentioned as a specific drink made by the Scythians (Herodotus. 1972). Plano Carpini, Rubruk, Marco Polo, travelers and diplomats of later eras wrote about koumiss among the Mongols - everyone who had to deal with it.
It is now well known that koumiss has certain antibiotic properties that can help heal pulmonary and gastrointestinal diseases, restore the strength of an exhausted body after prolonged malnutrition - all this has been established by modern medicine. However, these qualities have long been known to the nomads of the Eurasian steppes, who knew very well from centuries of experience how koumiss (especially the first one, obtained immediately after the start of milking mares) restores the strength of the body, weakened by a half-starved winter, what life-giving power it has for the elderly, youth, children. This drink plays an important role in the culture of the Mongols and Buryats, and not only as a food product. It is a kind of festive, sacred symbol of the nomadic lifestyle. (Zhukovskaya. 1988. S. 75-76; Culinary traditions of the world. 2003. S. 106-107).
The Mongols and Buryats fermented mare's milk fresh, in no case boiled. The best sourdough is considered to be a small amount of old koumiss. The fermentation element also retains the milk protein that has settled in the form of a curdled mass on the walls of vessels from under koumiss. If fresh mare's milk is poured into such a vessel, it will begin to ferment without any additional leaven.
Koumiss is best kept in large leather skins made from whole-grained bovine hides. The time required for fermentation (from several hours to 3-5 days) depends on the regularity of shaking and not so much on the quantity as on the consistency of milk: fatter and thicker ferments longer. Ready-made koumiss is poured into smaller vessels and drunk, and fresh milk is constantly added to wineskins after each milking of the mares. This process continues uninterruptedly until the end of the koumiss season in autumn, although in some places it was cooked in winter. The alcohol content of koumiss is 1.5-3 °, but there are ways to enhance its intoxicating properties: for example, the Kazakhs use the root of the aconite plant for this, the Western Mongols use juniper, blue barley, black unsalted tea, sea buckthorn berries.
The nomads of the Eurasian steppes have long known the medicinal properties of fermented milk products: airak cleansed the stomach and intestines; tarag improved sleep; milk healed diseases of the throat, lungs, colds, urinary incontinence; melted butter three years ago, when rubbed into the body, relieved inflammatory processes; kurungoy before the revolution, syphilis was treated and in general it was considered superior to lemon in its healing qualities (Daribazarova. 2001, p. 36).
milk vodka. The strongest alcoholic drink made from milk is milk vodka. (archi, tarasun), obtained by distillation. Starting products for distillation - sour milk, kurunga and less often koumiss. The equipment and technology for the distillation of sour milk into vodka is quite universal throughout Eurasia and has been repeatedly described in the literature. (Burdukov. 1936, p. 124; Vyatkin. 1969. S. 204-205; Potapov. 1969, p. 171; Tugutov. 1957, p. 86; Khangalov. 1958. T. I. S. 242-245). The Mongols know 5 degrees of distillation of vodka (archi; arz; horz; sharz; dun), the strength scale of which increases from 9-1G to 50 °. Buryats usually stop at archi(or tarasune - this name is used by Western Buryats), because all subsequent distillations require a lot of milk. To get a stronger drink, pour into the cauldron with kurung obtained after the first sublimation archi or tarasun and make a second run. This drink is already more purified from fusel oils and stronger. It happens, but very rarely, that a double tarasun is driven from a pure tarasun of the first distillation - then a very strong alcoholic drink is obtained. (Khangalov. 1958. T. I. S. 245).
Plant food in the food system of nomads, in comparison with meat and dairy, it was insignificant in quantity, but necessary. It replenished in the human body its needs for vegetable protein and starch. Initially, all plant food was obtained only through gathering. The nomads collected, harvested and stored wild cereals, onions, garlic, berries, mushrooms, aromatic herbs for future use. Sulkhir, camel herb and other herbs were crushed in mortars into coarse flour, fried with butter and added to tea. Rhizomes of highlander viviparous, goose cinquefoil, lily bulbs (sarana) and others were dried and added as a seasoning to meat or kneaded into dairy products. Black and red wild currants, gooseberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, sea buckthorn, bird cherry, fruits of wild apple trees - everything was eaten fresh, dried, canned, and sometimes added to dairy products.
Several types of wild onions and garlic grow in the steppes and forests of Transbaikalia: wild field onions (mandihen), it was harvested in bags, cut, dried, stored in birch bark tubs, seasoned with meat soups; Chinese bow with flat feathers, it was less preferred; wild garlic (hondino), it grew on rocks and therefore it was not easy to collect it, its bulbs did not require special processing, they did not need to be salted or dried, they were perfectly stored and so; it tastes spicier than ordinary garlic, it was used in the preparation of meat dishes, soups, sausages, etc. Cheremsha, due to its unpleasant smell, became the object of collection a little later, under the influence of the Russian population, which harvested it in large quantities for themselves and for sale in industrial settlements.
In large quantities, they harvested the roots of wild buckwheat, which is actually not buckwheat at all, but a viviparous mountaineer (meheer). Two types of it were known: husa meheer(sheep buckwheat) and ulaan meheer(red buckwheat). The first had large bluish roots with snow-white sweet pulp. They were collected in the spring, when the ground was just freed from under the snow, using a stick with an iron tip; the roots of red buckwheat, on the contrary, were collected in the fall, and not by themselves, but by ruining mouse holes and taking away from mice the stocks of these roots that they had already produced. The roots were dried, crushed in a mortar, winnowed, added to soups and other foods. The resulting flour was roasted and used to make zamba, boiled salamat, baked cakes in the ashes of the hearth (Galdanova. 1992, p. 85).
Strawberries, blueberries, lingonberries were harvested in the corresponding seasons of the year, usually eaten fresh, sometimes dried, mixed into dairy products. Over time, under the influence of the Russians, they learned how to make jam. The collection of pine nuts in the taiga regions first arose for their own consumption, but since the middle of the 19th century. took on a commercial character. It is curious that even now, in the post-perestroika period, many villages remote from the centers of economic development of the Republic of Buryatia live almost exclusively on subsistence farming - livestock products and personal gardens, and all the money they can earn comes only from the sale of pine nuts, mushrooms, and berries harvested in the taiga.
The influence of the food model of settled neighbors on the food culture of the Buryats. With the accession of Buryatia to Russia and the appearance of the Russian population in Cis-Baikal and Transbaikalia, the food model of the Buryats began to change gradually, but significantly. Their way of life and economy included arable farming, gardening, fishing, and, accordingly, the products of these types of economic activity were included in the diet. Rye, wheat, barley grown on cultivated arable land, flour, which was obtained from these cereals, led to the emergence of bread baking, first from unleavened, and then from sourdough. Rye and barley cakes were baked from unleavened dough in the ashes of a hearth or a fire, they made noodles for dressing meat soups, a shell for donuts with meat filling (poses, from whale. bao-ze), which were steamed in special double boilers.
Poses deserve special attention, as they are a classic example of a marginal dish that appeared at the junction of two cultures - nomadic pastoral Mongolian and settled agricultural Chinese. From the first there is meat in it, from the second - the dough. Judging by the name (translated from Chinese it means pampushka or a pie stuffed with vegetables or meat) and the manufacturing technology in a special multilayer double boiler, which is completely uncharacteristic of the nomadic world, this dish, of course, appeared in China, and it came to Buryatia from Mongolia. It is curious that the Chinese, the Mongols, and the Buryats consider him "their own". And it is, indeed, "its own" to them all, differing only in nuances in preparation. Chinese donuts have a thicker layer of dough, less meat, more vegetables and spices added to the meat. Mongolian and Buryat, on the contrary, have thinner dough, more meat (preferably a mixture of different types - lamb, beef, and sometimes meat of wild animals - gazelle, elk) with onions or wild garlic and cumin. Poses in modern Buryatia, it is a homemade and restaurant dish, everyday and on the occasion of the arrival of guests, New Year's and official banquets - in a word, suitable for all occasions, and almost everyone knows how and loves to cook it (Zhukovskaya. 2002. S. 135-154).
From sour dough, they learned to bake "Russian bread" in the oven, shangi - cheesecakes with cottage cheese, berries, potatoes. The sedentary Buryat farms quickly appreciated the advantage of their own gardens, planted potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, carrots - all this by the 19th century. became a permanent part of the diet. Following the vegetables, berry bushes (raspberries, gooseberries, black currants) also appeared. What the villagers gathered in the steppe, in the forest, in the taiga, continuing and developing the ancient traditions of gathering, the city dwellers grew in their own gardens, in the suburbs, in dachas, partially supplying their products to the city market.
A few words about fish and fish food. Nomads always ate it reluctantly. Basically, in extreme conditions (loss of livestock due to dzut, epidemics, loss of livestock as a result of enemy raids, etc.). Sometimes, trying to explain this, they appeal to the norms of Buddhist morality, which forbids killing living beings. This is not true, since there is no fundamental difference between "live fish" and "live cattle", and the latter was, as is clear from the above, the basis of the nutrition of the nomadic population. There was simply no tradition of catching, cooking and eating fish. And as soon as it appeared, and this happened again with the appearance of the Russian population in South Siberia, the Buryats quickly mastered such fishing gear as tops, spears, nets (the latter, however, were used only for commercial fishing on and large rivers). Usually the fish was boiled, draining the broth, or baked on coals, but not fried. They caught graylings, lenoks, pike, and eventually mastered winter fishing through the hole. The rivers and lakes of Buryatia abounded in fish, and there has never been a predatory senseless extermination of it up to fry, which is characteristic of our time.
Religious prohibitions applied only to one fish - burbot. He was considered the totem progenitor of the Ekhirites, one of the four sub-ethnic groups that formed the Buryat people. (Manzhigeev. 1978, p. 105). Memories of this are preserved in folklore: Ekhirit eeren gutar esege eriyn gaba ehe(finished: "Ekhirit, whose father is a motley burbot, his mother is a coastal gap") (Khadakhne. 1926, p. 32; Zhukovskaya. 1980, p. 97). G.R. Galdanova sees in the ban on fishing and eating burbot echoes of a special cult that existed among the Khurkhut clan, whose descendants still live in the Zakamensky, Tunkinsky and Okinsky regions of Buryatia (Galdanova. 1992, p. 89). Nevertheless, burbots were still caught, its large, tasty liver was especially valued, it was fried in a pan and eaten.
Currently, the most popular fish in Buryatia is Baikal, known far beyond the borders of Russia. It is eaten fried, boiled, smoked and salted. The latter is especially piquant, as it has a specific smell, the so-called "omul with a smell", which is especially appreciated by connoisseurs and lovers of this product.
In conclusion, it should be said that food was divided into everyday and festive. New Year's Eve was among the festive occasions for the feast. (Sagaalgan)- the boundary of the end of the old and the beginning of the new economic year, weddings, the arrival of a guest - a friend, relative, and sometimes just a random traveler.
The main festive dish is boiled meat, but treating it was a very complex process, regulated by the ancient rules of etiquette. A piece of meat, which was treated to a guest, depended on his age, degree of relationship with the owner of the house, gender, social status. The most honorable dish among most groups of Buryats was lamb, and among the Zakamensky Buryats - a horse's head. (tɵɵley). It was an honorary dish, not an edible one. Before being boiled, the head was carefully burned on fire, then scraped out, and after boiling five cuts were made - one on the forehead, two behind the ears, and two on the sides of the muzzle. When they started eating, the guest, to whom they brought their head, tore off a piece of skin from all the incised places and threw them into the fire of the hearth. And if the feast took place in the air, then just in the sky. Among the Agin Buryats, this was considered as a sacrifice to the spirits of ancestors and the "mistress" of the hearth. Next in order of importance were the following pieces: the tibia of the front and hind legs, shoulder blade, and brisket. A stranger, that is, a representative of a foreign clan, was given an ulna. Incorrect distribution of pieces of meat was considered an insult. If there were no incisions on the head of an animal given to a distinguished guest, he could refuse to accept it. During important feasts, all the etiquette rules for the distribution of "nominal" pieces must have been observed. For this purpose, they even hired a special person who had to be distinguished by dexterity, ingenuity, knowledge of the genealogy of all those present, customs and traditions. This position was very responsible. (Galdanova. 1992, p. 90).
Milk belonged to the festive and ceremonial food. Every morning, women sacrificed freshly milked milk to the spirits of their ancestors, the spirits of the land and the area where they live, splashing it with a special sacrificial spoon with 9 recesses. (sasal). Many holidays began with a libation of milk, with a treat for all those gathered with "white" sacred food - dairy products. (sagaan edeen).
In modern post-perestroika Russia, national culinary traditions are largely leveled. In any region, you can buy or, at worst, if you really want to, order and get any finished product or semi-finished product and cook yourself whatever you want. And you can go to any restaurant with national - Turkish, Mexican, Chinese, Japanese or other cuisine so recently exotic for a Russian and try any dish for the sake of curiosity. However, the national food traditions that have developed over the centuries in the conditions of the emerging culinary diversity do not die out at all, but continue to live, although the economic and cultural basis that gave rise to them has also undergone changes and is no longer at all like the original one.
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