Guryevskaya porridge. Guryev porridge - recipe Guryev porridge for breakfast, like for a holiday

Guryev porridge is one of the most delicious dishes of traditional Russian cuisine. The basis of its preparation is ordinary semolina, but it must be boiled in milk (and with foam) and add nuts to it (it tastes best with hazel or almonds, but ordinary walnuts are also suitable, and modern cooks even add peanuts) and jam ( or dried fruits - dried apricots, raisins and others).

This is not only a delicacy that can be used to surprise guests at a meal (previously, Guryev porridge was rarely used as everyday food), but also a very healthy and satisfying dish.

The history of the origin of Guryev porridge.

Porridge has been known since the beginning of the 19th century, although there is an opinion that it was prepared before. The name of the porridge comes from the surname of the then Minister of Finance (and, accordingly, one of the most influential people in the Russian Empire) Count Dmitry Aleksandrovich Guryev (1751 - 1825), but the inventor of the dish was the serf cook Zakhar Kuzmin, whom the Count bought from his former owner, Major Georgy Yurisovsky (and it is believed that Kuzmin came up with the recipe for porridge when he worked for Yurisovsky).

As a result, the porridge became popular among the Russian nobility and even in the imperial family (it is known that Alexander the Third was very fond of it). It is worth noting that if the aristocrats served this porridge at ceremonial dinners, then in the royal family, apparently, it was still included in the daily diet, since historians report that on the day of the train crash (1888), the waiter had to add cream at the king's request.

Interestingly, semolina porridge with nuts and fruits gradually gained popularity not only in Russia, but also abroad. The first tasting of this delicacy in France took place in 1814, that is, when the Russian army not only expelled French troops from their native country, but also took Paris.

How they cooked porridge in Rus'

Everyone knows the recipe for regular semolina porridge. In Rus', it was cooked in ovens and mixed with nuts (they had to be crushed and slightly calcined beforehand). At the same time, it was necessary to heat the cream (less often milk) so that foam forms (in our time a frying pan is used for this, but previously the cream was placed in the oven in ordinary cast iron or clay pots). The use of kaymak, a special thick cream, was also allowed. Then you should add milk/cream with foam or kaymak to the porridge and cook in the oven over low heat. The finished dish was decorated with dried fruits and sometimes with jam.

Modern possibilities, of course, involve the use of ordinary cauldrons and pans instead of pots and an oven instead of a stove. By the way, nowadays cream is heated in a frying pan, and the semolina itself is cooked in a saucepan. Deviations from the classic recipe are also possible (some cooks add eggs to the dish). Today's housewives also add regular and/or vanilla sugar to the porridge, but in the old days they limited themselves to a small amount of regular sugar.

Back in the 19th century, Count D.A. Guryev, who was also known as a gourmet, was invited to dinner with officer Yurisovsky. The dessert he tasted amazed him so much with its taste that Guryev kissed the cook, Zakhar Kuzmin, who prepared this extraordinary dish. And for dessert, semolina porridge was served, which later received the name Guryevskaya. The name of the cook was forgotten over time, but the recipe for Guryev porridge was included in almost all cookbooks and is known today far beyond the borders of Russia.

How to cook Guryev porridge?

Traditionally, Guryev porridge is prepared from semolina with the obligatory addition of foam, which is skimmed off the milk or cream when heated. Then the foams, alternately with semolina porridge and nuts, are laid out in layers in a baking dish or stewpan and baked in the oven. The top of the porridge is decorated with candied fruits, nuts and poured over with jam. Before adding nuts to Guryev porridge, they must be cleared of films so that the dish does not acquire a gray color and spoil the entire aesthetics of the dish.

Guryev porridge - an old recipe

If the famous semolina porridge is prepared all over the world today, let’s try it. How to cook Guryev porridge? Real porridge that was served to Count Guryev himself? We stock up on milk and semolina and start cooking.

Ingredients:

• semolina – 0.75 cups;
• milk – 1.25 l;
• walnuts – 100 g;
• sugar – 4 tbsp. spoons;
• raisins – 1 handful;
• vanilla sugar – 1 teaspoon;
• candied fruits – 1 handful;
• fresh berries – 1 handful;
• mint - for decoration.

Preparation

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Scald the nuts with boiling water and remove the skins, then chop them and place them on a baking sheet lined with parchment, sprinkle 1 tablespoon of sugar on top and place in the oven for 3-4 minutes.

Wash the raisins, pour boiling water and leave for 20 minutes. Then we put it in a colander and dry it. Cut the candied fruits into small pieces. In a saucepan, bring 500 ml of milk to a boil, add 2 tablespoons of sugar and vanilla sugar. Stirring constantly, add semolina and cook thick porridge. Remove the porridge from the heat, add the raisins and stir.

Pour the remaining milk into the baking dish, put it in the oven and skim off any foam that forms. Let's get down to the most important thing: grease the mold with oil, put a layer of porridge, some candied fruits and nuts in it, lay the foam on top so that they form a single layer and repeat the layers 3-4 times. The last layer should be porridge. Sprinkle the remaining sugar on top. Cooking Guryev porridge will take about 10 minutes in the oven (until golden brown appears). Ready Guryev semolina porridge is decorated with fresh berries, nuts and mint leaves.

As you and I already know, traditionally, Guryev porridge is prepared from semolina, but there is also a recipe from buckwheat, which we will tell you about.

Ingredients:

Preparation

First, cook the buckwheat. To do this, brew it in a pot with mushroom broth (boiling), add salt and oil. When the porridge is almost ready, remove it from the pot, and thoroughly wash the pot and wipe it dry. Then we put a layer of porridge, frying grated carrots and mushrooms, a layer of brains into the pot, and repeat this several times. The last layer should be the brains. Close the pot and put it in the oven. Cook buckwheat porridge in Guryev style until the buckwheat becomes crumbly. If desired, decorate the finished dish with herbs.

And lovers of all kinds of cereals will certainly not ignore the recipes and.

Ekaterina ZAYTSEVA

TSAR-PORRIDGE

I've been deceived by my heart,
I've been deceived by my mind,
But never before, friends,
I was not deceived by my stomach.
Everyone must admit that
Lover, or poet, or warrior, -
Just a carefree grocery store
Worthy of the title of wise man.

E.A. Baratynsky. Feasts. 1821(?)

The history of the creation of Guryev porridge is ambiguous and contradictory. For modern people, porridge is associated primarily with a healthy breakfast. Or a side dish for the second course. All the more amazing is the recipe, which has become a national brand. The famous Guryev porridge, rightly called “Tsar Porridge,” is the standard of excess in the domestic culinary tradition. Sugar, clotted cream, dried fruits, caramelized nuts, apricot sauce... Just the literal materialization of the sweet life!
And the end result is an incomparable dessert that has no analogues in the cuisines of the world.

 
GURYEV THE FATHER OR GURYEV THE SON?

The history of the creation of Guryev porridge is ambiguous and contradictory. According to one version, the sweet dish was invented by the Minister of Finance of Russia, Count Dmitry Aleksandrovich Guryev (1758-1825) in honor of the victory over Napoleon I Bonaparte. According to another, the dessert was prepared by the serf cook Zakhar Kuzmin for a gala dinner at the retired major of the Orenburg Dragoon Regiment Georgy Vladimirovich Yurisovsky, to which Count Dmitry Alexandrovich was also invited. His Excellency liked the porridge so much that he bought the serf cook and his family. The magazine “Historical Bulletin” for 1900 published a bill of sale dated 1822, according to which the retired major sold “two men, four women and one child” to Count Guryev. But Odessa residents are still convinced that the king-porridge was invented by Count Alexander Dmitrievich Guryev, the eldest son of the minister, when he was the mayor of Odessa...

Be that as it may, the sweet recipe quickly spread throughout the living rooms of noble and wealthy people. After all, not everyone could afford semolina (the main ingredient of the dish), a cereal made from durum wheat; it has historically been considered expensive and rare in Russia. (Modern semolina, well known to us, is much inferior to its predecessor in quality and taste). For example, Lieutenant of the Life Guards and future St. Petersburg governor Pyotr Pavlovich Durnovo is a great gourmet! - with enviable regularity he treated guests to porridge-dessert in his aristocratic mansion on the English Embankment in St. Petersburg. The family culinary chronicle of 1857-1858 speaks for itself: Tsar porridge was served on October 11 and 31, November 19 and 27, December 13, 10, 20, 22 (“semolina porridge with compode”) and January 27, March 5 and 28 (1).

Meet the minu of one of these high-society dinners for five people:

Puree potato soup
Stuffed whitefish
Sirloin in English, side dish of potatoes and peas
Fried grouse
Cauliflower
Guryev porridge (2).

A SOVIET CHILDHOOD DELICK

There is no canonical recipe for preparing Guryev porridge - this is precisely its special charm. The dish, a collective, exaggerated image of sweet Russian cooking, is interpreted differently by chefs. Some people add nuts and fresh berries, others use all kinds of candied fruits and powdered sugar, and for flavor - a vanilla stick and rum. Only semolina and skimmed milk foam remain unchanged.

In the laconic recipe, which we took from the once popular “Book on Tasty and Healthy Food,” the authors suggest garnishing Guryev porridge with canned fruit. Many people probably associate this delicacy with the recent Soviet era. And the taste of childhood, when dad brought the treasured jars of sugar peaches and pineapples...

Guryevskaya porridge
Add sugar and vanillin to boiling milk. After this, gradually add semolina and, stirring, cook for 10 minutes. Put butter and raw eggs into the cooked porridge, mix it all well and put it in a frying pan, pre-greased with butter, sprinkle with sugar and place in a hot oven. When a light brown crust forms, the porridge is ready.

When serving, garnish the porridge with canned fruit, pour over sweet sauce and sprinkle with toasted almonds.
For 3/4 cup semolina - 2 eggs, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 cups milk, 2 tbsp. tablespoons butter, 50 g almonds, 1/2 vanillin powder, 1/2 cans of canned fruit (3).

“HOMEMADE, FRESH, HEALTHY SUPPLIES”

Guryev porridge has become an integral part of our historical past. It is known that it was one of the favorite dishes of Emperor Alexander III. During the fateful train journey in 1888, when the Tsar’s train derailed at the Borki station near Kharkov, the Tsar was just pouring cream on the porridge. By a fatal coincidence, the carriages containing the emperor's bedroom and office were completely destroyed, but the dining carriage was not damaged. The emperor later recalled more than once how porridge saved his life.

And we certainly cannot escape from the original Russian porridge! And if only from her...

I look around the table and see different dishes
Flower bed arranged in a pattern.
Crimson ham, green cabbage soup with yolk,
Ruddy yellow pie, white cheese, red crayfish,
Like tar, amber - caviar,
and with a blue feather
There are motley pike there: beautiful!
Beautiful because
that my gaze and taste beckon;
But not with abundance or seasoning of foreign countries,
And what neat everything represents is Rus':
The supplies are homemade, fresh, healthy.

Well, how can you disagree with Gavriil Derzhavin?!

 
AND THERE IS A RECIPE. Tastier than any ice cream...

Yes, it sounds incredible: Guryev porridge can be served as ice cream. We find an amazing recipe in the wonderful book by Elena Romanovna Mushkina “The Secret of the Courland Pie”:

GURYEVSKAYA PORridge FROZEN

Products: semolina - 200 g, butter - 100 g, regular cream - 1 bottle, heavy cream - 100 g, milk - 2 bottles, sugar - 200 g,
walnuts (with shell) - 800 g, candied fruits - 200 g, vanilla stick, Provençal oil, rum, lemon juice, salt.

Boil milk and add semolina to it. Stir with a spatula until the porridge thickens and the cereal becomes soft.
Add the butter, breaking it into pieces, sugar, a pinch of salt, and a vanilla stick, cut lengthwise. Stir well. Cover the pan tightly with a lid and steam (in a frying pan with hot water) in a medium-temperature oven for half an hour.
During this time, prepare the foam.
Pour a bottle of regular cream into a spacious, shallow saucepan, put it in the oven over medium heat, and if possible, in a Russian oven. As soon as a golden foam forms on the surface of the cream, carefully remove it with a fork or slotted spoon onto a plate. Place the cream back into the oven until a new foam appears.
Do this until all the cream turns into foam and only a thick sediment remains at the bottom of the saucepan.
Remove the porridge from the oven, mix with all the skimmed foam, which must first be cut into small pieces; by this time they will have frozen. Remove the vanilla from the porridge and add the thick sediment remaining at the bottom of the saucepan, as well as the caramelized walnuts.
Peel the nuts and place in the oven over low heat. Lightly fry to remove the skin, or simply scald with boiling water. Let stand covered for 10-15 minutes. Then peel and dry a little on the stove.
For caramel, pour 100 g of sugar into a saucepan, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into it, and place the saucepan on the stove over high heat. Stir the sugar with a spatula until it turns into a thick, dark red syrup. Pour nuts into the resulting caramel. Stir quickly. Place the nuts on a plate greased with Provençal oil. When cool, break into small pieces and mix with porridge. Then add candied fruits, cut into small cubes and sprinkled with rum, into the porridge. Stir and add 100 g of heavy whipping cream. Mix well again.
Place in a thick copper pan or ice cream maker and cover tightly with a lid. “Coat” the lid with oil and ice with salt. Keep in the cold. After two hours, rinse the mold thoroughly with cold water. Serve the porridge on a platter like ice cream (4).

1 Lotman Yu.M., Pogosyan E.A. High society dinners. Panorama of metropolitan life. St. Petersburg: Pushkin Foundation, 2006. pp. 128,138,163,170,191, 228,237,239,246,288, 310.
2 Ibid. P. 228.
3 A book about tasty and healthy food. M., 1953. P. 323.
4 Mushkina E.R. The secret of the Courland pie. M., 2008. pp. 55-56.

"Motherland". – 2015. - No. 7. – pp. 77-79.

First you need to prepare dried fruits and nuts for the porridge. Any dried fruits and nuts of your choice are suitable for this dish. These can be raisins, dried apricots, dates, figs, cranberries, prunes (preferably dried, smoked will make the taste of the dish sharper), dried bananas, candied fruits and kiwi are also suitable.

Choose your own nut mixture. I took hazelnuts, almonds and cashews. You can also use walnuts, peanuts and pine nuts. A mixture of two or three types of nuts would be optimal.

I have light and dark raisins, one is sweet and the other is sour. I deliberately took different raisins to give the dish a multifaceted taste. It is advisable to take raisins without seeds.

So, wash the dried fruits thoroughly and pour boiling water for 20 minutes. Heat the nuts in a dry frying pan or in the oven and remove the skins so that they do not taste bitter in the dish.

Pour 500 ml of milk into a saucepan with a thick bottom, add 1 tablespoon of sugar (we will cover the porridge with the second spoon of sugar to form a golden brown crust), heat the milk to a boil.

With one hand, pour the semolina into the milk in a thin stream, and with the other, continuously stir with a whisk.

By whisking the porridge with a whisk, we will forget about the lumps and get a fluffy and light texture. I use the blender whisk on low speed. Cook and beat the porridge for about 5 minutes. During this time it will begin to thicken.

Add butter to the finished porridge (about 2 tablespoons), stir and cover with a lid for another 5 minutes so that the porridge is completely cooked.

Pour the remaining 200 ml of milk into a saucepan or frying pan, as in my case, and heat the milk until foam forms. Skim off the milk foam with a wide spatula and transfer to a plate. Bring the milk to a boil again and skim off the foam again. This needs to be done 7-8 times, or maybe more, depending on how much foam is needed for your porridge.

Place a layer of semolina porridge in a heat-resistant bowl or other container. Next, add thinly chopped figs and dried apricots, whole raisins and nuts, which should be lightly crushed.

Place milk foam on the dried fruits, and then again place a ball of semolina porridge, dried fruits and foam. Choose the number of layers yourself, focusing on the size of the form.